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Dynamite dogs; they're frankfurters you grind, pack with a wallop of seasoning.

Dynamite dogs

Akin to the classic frankfurter, these juicysausages can be made mild to hot. But it's only with maximum seasoning that they merit the name of "dynamite dogs.'

Once you assemble the ingredients andequipment, the sausage-making process is fairly simple. You grind the meat and fat, season the mixture, then vigorously beat the mixture with ice to create a modified emulsion that makes the sausages juicy. Next, fill the sausage casings and twist at intervals to form dogs.

Poach the sausages right away (importantfor food safety) and serve; or chill and reheat. Once the sausages have been poached, you can also pan-brown or barbecue them.

From the meat counter, you'll need topurchase soft pork fat (from the pork back) and natural sausage casings, so call in your order several days ahead. Casings cost about 50 cents a yard and are sold either in a salt solution or dry salt and need to be washed before using. Both the fat and casings can be frozen.

For equipment, you'll need a food chopper(electric or manual) to grind the meat and a sausage-stuffing attachment, but you can improvise the latter. Make a stuffing tool with a plastic-lined pastry bag fitted with the plastic tube of a gravy baster (tip and part of end sawed off to create a 5-in.-long nozzle); slide tube into pastry bag, leaving 1 inch of the tube in the bag; secure bag to the neck of the tube by wrapping securely with sturdy tape.

To stuff the casings, recruit a helper.Have one person operate the food chopper or pastry bag while you guide the meat mixture into the casings.

The amount of salt looks high, but it isnecessary to create the emulsion of fat and ice for moist, firm-textured sausages with a minimum of fat.

Dynamite Dogs

1 1/2 pounds boneless beef chuck

About 1 1/2 pounds boneless porkbutt or shoulder

About 1 pound pork back fat withskin (trim off skin and discard); or use about 1/2 pound pork fat pieces, trimmed of all meat membrane

2 large eggs

1/2 cup nonfat dry milk powderSeasoning paste (recipe follows)

1 tablespoon salt

2 cups crushed ice

About 4 yards natural sausagecasings, 1 1/4-inch diameter

Water

About 3 yards thin cotton string

Cut beef and pork into 1-inch cubes. Trimoff and discard fibrous membranes and tough gristle; you need 2 cups packed cubes of each meat. Cut the pork fat into 1-inch cubes; you need 1 cup packed fat. Mix meat and fat together.

With an electric or manual food chopperfitted with the fine blade, grind the mixture of meat and fat, putting it through the chopper 3 times.

Put eggs in a bowl and beat to blend. Addmeat mixture, dry milk, seasoning paste, and salt. Using your hands or a heavy spoon, mix well. (If made ahead, cover and chill mixture as long as overnight.)

In a food processor or small bowl of aheavy-duty electric mixer with mixing attachment (not a whip), whirl or beat at high speed 1/2 of meat mixture with 1/2 of the crushed ice just until the mixture looks creamy in consistency. This takes about 40 seconds in a processor, 1 minute in a mixer (if you overbeat, mixture looks fibrous and sausages will have a mealy texture). Transfer sausage to a large bowl. Repeat process with remaining meat and ice. To avoid spoilage, keep meat mixture cold whenever you are not working with it.

Cut casings into 4- to 5-foot-long sectionsand let soak in warm water for 10 minutes. Slide 1 end of a length of casing onto a smooth-tipped faucet. Run warm water through the casing to rinse out salt and check for holes; repeat with each section. Let casings stand in cool water until ready to use. Just before using, drain and strip off excess water with your fingers.

Apply sausage-stuffing attachment tofood chopper according to manufacturer's directions. (Or improvise with a pastry bag as suggested preceding.)

Ease end of 1 piece of casing onto thestuffing tube, allowing the last 2 inches of the casing to hang free. (Or ease casing onto the plastic baster tip fitted into the pastry bag.) Get a second pair of hands to help from this point on.

Force meat mixture through the foodchopper, using chopper plunger to keep flow of meat even. (If using the pastry bag, fill bag with the meat, fold bag shut, and roll or twist to force meat into casings.) For the first few inches, hold casing closed at tip as meat fills it; let out air, then knot casing tip. For the rest, pierce casing with a needle to release air. Fill casings so they feel plump.

If casings tear (they're tougher than theylook), force meat away from tear, cut casing, twist, and set aside. Continue with remaining casing.

As each section of casing is stuffed, tieends in knots. Twist sausage at about 7-inch intervals to form individual dogs; tie at each twist with a piece of string to secure. Repeat until all the meat is used; keep sausages cold.

Fill an 8- to 10-quart pan with 5 quarts ofwater; bring to a rapid boil over high heat. Turn off heat and immediately add sausages (to keep submerged, place a wire rack or slightly smaller pan on top). Cover and let stand until sausages feel firm to touch, about 30 minutes. Drain, then cut sausages apart. You can serve the hot sausages or, if made ahead, let cool, cover, and chill up to 3 days. Freeze for longer storage, then thaw in refrigerator.

To brown sausages on barbecue afterpoaching, place on a grill 4 to 6 inches above a solid layer of medium coals (you should be able to hold your hand at grill level for about 4 to 5 seconds). Cook until sausages are brown, turning as needed, about 15 minutes total.

To pan-brown sausages after poaching,cook over medium heat in a single layer, uncovered, in a lightly greased frying pan, turning as needed, about 7 minutes.

To reheat in water, immerse in enoughsimmering water to cover, turn heat to low and cook about 6 minutes.

Makes 11 or 12 sausages, each about 1/4pound.--Lydia Raymond, Oakland.

Seasoning paste. In a 10- to 12-inchfrying pan, combine 2 tablespoons salad oil; 1 medium-size onion, minced; and 2 tablespoons minced or pressed garlic. Stir occasionally over medium-high heat until onion is limp, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and add 1/4 cup paprika, 2 teaspoons ground nutmeg, 1 1/2 to 2 teaspoons dry mustard, and 1/2 to 1 teaspoon cayenne. Stir until spices are combined. Pour in 1/2 cup water, 1/2 cup catsup, and 2 teaspoons to 1 tablespoon prepared horseradish. Return to heat, stir, and cook until mixture is dry, about 6 minutes; set aside to cool. (For the dynamite-hot flover, use maximum amounts of dry mustard, cayenne, and horseradish.)

Photo: Grind meat and fat together three timeswith an electric or manual food chopper

Photo: Heat-seasoned with cayenne, mustard, horseradish, and garlic, dynamite dog (complete with fuse) attracts a big bite

Photo: Fill pastry bag with meat mixture, squeezeinto casing, and form a solid sausage; two pairs of hands make job easier

Photo: Twist filled casing every 7 inchesand tie twist with string to form fuse for a dynamite-stick sausage
COPYRIGHT 1987 Sunset Publishing Corp.
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Copyright 1987 Gale, Cengage Learning. All rights reserved.

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Title Annotation:includes recipes
Publication:Sunset
Date:Jul 1, 1987
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