Disassembly and reassembly of the KBI Jericho Pistol: this new version of the Jericho 941 imported by KBI comes in three sizes, three calibers, and two frame styles. All are worked in the same manner.
This new version of the Jericho is available with either a steel or polymer frame, and in three sizes--the RPL (full size), the RPSL (mid size) and the RBL (compact). Calibers available are 9mm, .40 S&W, and .45 ACP.
After the magazine has been removed and you've made certain the pistol is unloaded, move the safety into the "fire" position and fully cock the hammer manually. Pull the slide to the rear until the index dimple on it is aligned with the dimple on the frame. Grasp the pistol by the trigger guard and press on the muzzle to resume and maintain the alignment. Push the slide-catch lever (#50) out from the right side of the flame and pull the slide forward and off. Invert the slide and press the recoil spring forward to disengage it from the barrel lug, then raise its rear end and remove it to the rear. Lift the breech end of the barrel upward and withdraw it from the slide.
Just to be different, I'll begin with the magazine (#53). it is too often overlooked and never given a thorough cleaning. That's unfortunate, for when dirty or damaged, a magazine can create quite a list of problems. Hold the magazine with its base facing upward. Depress the catch button. Place your thumb over the rear edge of the magazine and maintain pressure while sliding the base off. What your thumb is doing is keeping the spring in place until the base is out of the way and it can be withdrawn. Invert the mag, tilt the follower, and push it out through the base opening.
Now for the slide. Both the front sight (#2) and rear sight (#8) drift out right to left. Insert a suitable punch through the firing-pin plate (#16) to depress the firing pin (#22). Move the plate downward enough to capture the pin, which is under pressure from its spring (#21). That having been accomplished, pull the punch, continue the removal of the plate, and prevent the uncontrolled escape of the firing pin and spring from the slide once nothing is in their way to stop them. After the plate, firing pin, and spring are dismantled, the firing-pin blocker spring (#14) and blocker (#15) will fall from the bottom of the slide.
The right-hand safety lever (#9) is retained by a small roll pin (#10). This pin is driven downward far enough to clear the left safety lever (#13). As a result, the right lever can be removed. Don't pull out the left lever until you've either covered the entire left side of the slide with a hand or placed the slide in a plastic bag. I prefer the latter option. Two very small parts are housed inside the left lever the safety plunger (#11) and plunger spring (#12). Unless prevented by a hand or a bag, both will disappear from the bench area when the lever is pulled from the slide.
The Jericho's extractor (#5) is secured by its pin (#3). Yes, it's a roll pin to be driven downward, but only out far enough to free the extractor. No, the extractor spring (#4) doesn't normally pop off once the extractor is gone. The spring works well, but isn't overly strong and may have to be picked out of its slide recess with tweezers.
Now let's move on to the frame. A Jericho with a steel frame has grip panels. The polymer-frame model like the one being addressed here has none. Outside of the need to remove the panels from a steel-framed pistol, there's no functional difference between the two models.
With either version, viewing the frame from the top and from the back to the front, two main subassemblies are rather obvious: the hammer assembly (#43) and the trigger assembly (#41). Also visible (but less obvious) is the sear housing (#34), and this is where you'll begin dismantling the pistol's back end.
Drift out the sear pin (#52) and lift out the sear housing. Its housing pin (#32) keeps it intact by retaining the spring (#35), the sear (#33), and the housing as a unit. You can break this union down by drifting out the housing pin, but keep in mind that the spring is one of those parts that tends to get lost.
Once the sear housing is out, it's now possible to remove the complete hammer assembly by drifting the hammer-block pin (#51). It can be drifted in either direction. Remember this, however; at this point the assembly remains under considerable pressure from the hammer spring (#39), and that must be controlled to keep the assembly from leaping out of the frame. Therefore, push downward on the hammer (#37) when drifting the pin. The removal of the hammer-block pin additionally frees up the trigger-bar plunger (#23), plunger spring (#24), safety pin (#25), and plunger pin (#26). This grouping of parts keeps the magazine catch in place. Keep a finger or a piece of tape over the hole in the right side of the catch. Leave it uncovered and you'll see the catch spring (#46) and plunger (#47) nevermore.
Once the hammer group itself is removed, you can take it clown further by pushing out the hammer pin (#44), plus the pins retaining the cocking sear (#36) and hammer strut/spring rod (#38). These final two pins are numbered the same as the trigger-bar pin.
That brings us to the trigger assembly. After drifting the trigger-block pin (#49), take the same kind of care you did with the hammer assembly. The slide-catch pin (#42) must be driven inward from the right if you're going to remove the slide-catch spring (#40). Treat this spring with the same concern you were advised to take with the magazine catch spring and plunger. Do likewise with the trigger spring (#30) when you drift the trigger pin (#29) in either direction. As you've probably realized by now, the trigger-bar pin (#27) retains the bar (#31). It's not difficult to push out, freeing the bar for removal.
There are no specific reassembly hints or tricks for the Jericho. The process is simply undertaken in the reverse order of the disassembly. I do suggest that special attention be paid to those areas referred to above where spring pressures are involved. How the spring pressure is controlled with the Jericho and other guns varies from one gunsmith to the next, and there's no universal technique due to the many different designs we work with. The end objective is, of course, to get the darned spring to relax. Use whatever technique works best for you.
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|Date:||Jan 1, 2010|
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