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Dim Sum For Every Tastebud & Pocket.

IT'S AN idea -- a dim sum restaurant with a twist -- that was waiting to find takers, and it couldn't have got more enthusiastic parents than Ashish Kapur and Ajay Saini, founders of the Yo China chain of restaurants.

I was a Yo China fan till my children outgrew its menu -- in fact, so did much of its original clientele, the call centre crowd, once they went up the economic ladder -- and I haven't checked out its new and upgraded menu. To cut a long story short, I'd lost touch with Yo China till memories of it came back to me as I stepped into dimsumbros, the new Kapur- Saini venture, at nearly closing time, after a race against deadlines in office, in a deserted Ambience Mall in Gurgaon. It was soulless and dimly lit because it was a Tuesday, the day when the stores are shut, and even the

employees out for lunch to check whether they were fit to be hired -- he didn't like picky eaters because he believed they ended up being misfits in a company.

The main attraction of the dimsumbros menu is that none of its 37 offerings are predictable -- in fact, siu mai and hargao are two words you'll be hard- pressed to find on the menu. The Sunday dim sum menu of Nanking Vasant Kunj is the only competition to it, but still, dimsumbros scores in a league of its own with its delectable salmon roll ( stuffed with a delicate black bean paste; ` 600) and crunchy almond prawns with wasabi mayo ( ` 500).

Now, these are in the premium category and you have to ask for PVR abutting dimsumbros wasn't its usual buzzy self.

It's rare to find a deserted Ambience Mall -- on days other than Tuesday, it must be the busiest mall this side of the Suez -- so I quite liked the experience of having the most memorable dim sum I have had in a long time, in a restaurant that was not unusually busy. Even the couples there seemed to have a curfew hour, for they vamoosed around 11 -- or maybe they'd better things to do.

I didn't, so I savoured every dim sum that came to me. And the conversation kept the gastric juices flowing, as it flitted from single malt cocktails, which I am not a great fan of, to Henry Ford's practice of taking prospective

these as stand- alone orders. For the rest of the menu, you have the option of ordering four, six or eight baskets with three dim sum each, at prices extending from ` 550 ( the vegetarian foursome) to ` 1,250 ( the non- vegetarian option of eight baskets). The dim sum lunch options are even more scrumptious: four baskets, a bowl meal of your choice and dessert for ` 495 ( vegetarian), ` 595 ( meat) and ` 695 ( seafood).

So, if four of you are out for dinner, go for the eight- basket option with baked BBQ pork pastry; steamed black bean fish; seafood soup dim sum; Malaysian fish roll; pan- fried dumplings with prawn and bamboo shoots; egg tart; and custard bun. And if you're vegetarian, ask for ( though you might find the choice limited) the irresistible chives and water chestnut dumplings; baked radish and spring onion roll; Chinese pickled vegetables dumplings; vegetable and enoki siu mai ; fresh spicy vegetables pao ; fried green bean and onion dumplings; and of course, the unmissable custard bun.

Here's a restaurant that spoils you for choice -- it gives you 37 reasons to go back for more, even before you get to sample its meals in a bowl. More about these later.


WHERE: Third Floor, Ambience Mall, Gurgaon DIAL: 0124- 4029281

WHEN : 12 noon to 4 p. m.; 7 p. m. to 12 midnight

PRICE PER PERSON: The weekday lunch buffet. The fixed- price offering includes four baskets with three dim sum each, a bowl meal of your choice and a dessert. It is priced at ` 495 ( vegetarian), ` 595 ( meat) and ` 695 ( seafood).

PRICE PER PERSON: The restaurant serves 37 varieties of dim sum. It also has a full menu, whose main attraction is a line- up of 40 bowl meal options. The prices mentioned in the copy exclude VAT and 10% service charge.

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Publication:Mail Today (New Delhi, India)
Geographic Code:9CHIN
Date:Feb 25, 2011
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