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Cooking with chiles.

Green and red, fresh and dried

MOST TRADITIONAL New Mexican dishes start with locally grown chiles. Green chiles, roasted and peeled, are used whole or chopped. Dried red chile pods are made into sauces or ground for seasoning. Green and red chile sauces are splendid spooned onto many foods--from eggs to steaks. As an ingredient, the sauces are basic to many dishes including enchiladas, burritos, and braised meats; they keep well. Try the sauces as suggested, or improvise.

When working with a large quantity of chiles, especially hot kinds, protect your hands from chile burn with rubber gloves. To extinguish chile fire in the mouth, eat dairy products, starches, or sweets.

Roasted Green Chiles

Rinse and dry fresh New Mexico green chiles; place in a single layer in a shallow pan. Broil about 4 inches from heat, turning as needed until chiles are blistered and charred on all sides, 10 to 15 minutes; cool. If making ahead, freeze unpeeled chiles in easy-to-use amounts.

To use freshly roasted or thawed chiles, pull off and discard skin and seeds. One pound fresh chiles makes 3/4 to 1 cup peeled, seeded, and chopped roasted chiles.

Per 1/4 cup: 33 cal. (5.5 percent from fat); 1.7 g protein; 0.2 g fat (0 g sat.); 7.8 g carbo.; 5.8 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Green Chile Sauce

1/2 cup chopped onion

2 cloves garlic, pressed or minced

1 tablespoon salad oil

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 1/2 cups regular-strength chicken or vegetable broth

1 1/2 cups chopped roasted green chiles (directions precede)

Salt

In a 2- to 3-quart pan, stir onion and garlic in oil over medium heat until limp, about 5 minutes; stir in flour. Smoothly mix in broth; add chiles and stir until boiling. Add salt to taste. Use hot; or, if making ahead, cool, cover, and chill up to 3 days or freeze. Makes 2 2/3 cups.

Per 1/2 cup: 92 cal. (33 percent from fat); 3.2 g protein; 3.4 g fat (0.5 g sat.); 14 g carbo.; 24 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Red Chile Sauce

1 teaspoon salad oil

1 cup chopped onion

2 to 4 cloves garlic, pressed or minced

3 ounces (10 to 14 about 6-in.-long) dried New Mexico chiles

Salt

In a 3- to 4-quart pan over medium heat, stir oil, onion, and garlic often until onion is limp, about 5 minutes. Remove onion from pan and set aside.

Place chiles in a single layer in a 10- by 15-inch baking pan. Bake in a 300 |degrees~ oven until chiles smell slightly toasted (watch closely; chiles scorch easily and develop a bitter taste if burned), about 5 minutes; cool. Remove and discard chile stems and seeds. Rinse chiles; drain and break into pieces into pan used for onion. Add 3 cups water. Cover and simmer until chiles are soft, about 15 minutes; drain, reserving water.

Whirl chiles and onion in a blender or food processor, gradually adding 1 1/2 cups reserved water. When smoothly pureed, pour mixture into pan. Cover, bring to a boil on high heat, and simmer 15 minutes; stir often. Add salt to taste. Use hot; or, if making ahead, cool, cover, and chill up to 3 days or freeze. Makes 2 1/2 cups.

Per 1/2 cup: 61 cal. (46 percent from fat); 1.9 g protein; 3.1 g fat (0.5 g sat.); 10 g carbo.; 4.9 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Quick red chile sauce. For a speedier version of red chile sauce, preceding, use ground New Mexico chiles (made from the dried chiles and often labeled red chile powder; don't confuse it with seasoned chile powder mixtures).

Cook onions and garlic in oil as directed, using a 1 1/2- to 2-quart pan. Add 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour and 1/2 cup ground New Mexico chiles; stir 1 to 2 minutes. Smoothly mix in 2 cups regular-strength chicken or vegetable broth; stir until boiling. Add salt to taste.

Store as directed. Sauce thickens on standing; if desired, reheat, then thin to desired consistency with water. Makes about 2 1/4 cups.

Per 1/2 cup: 105 cal. (39 percent from fat); 3.9 g protein; 4.6 g fat (0.8 g sat.); 16 g carbo; 33 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Chiles Rellenos with Smoked Shrimp

Teriyaki marinade (recipe follows)

3/4 pound large (31- to 35-per-lb.) shrimp, peeled and deveined

2 cups hickory chips

1 1/2 cups (6 oz.) shredded white cheddar cheese

1/4 cup thinly sliced green onions

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro (coriander)

8 roasted and peeled green chiles, each 5 to 6 inches long (recipe precedes)

1/2 cup finely crushed tortilla chips

Yellow tomato salsa (recipe follows) or red or green chile sauce (recipes precede)

Cilantro sprigs and sour cream

Reserve 2 tablespoons teriyaki marinade. Mix remaining marinade with shrimp; cover and chill 30 minutes to 1 hour.

Soak hickory chips at least 30 minutes in water to cover. Thread shrimp onto metal skewers. Drain wood chips.

In a barbecue with lid, scatter chips over a solid bed of medium-low coals (you can hold your hand at grill level only 4 to 5 seconds). Lay shrimp on grill; cover barbecue and open vents. Cook until shrimp are opaque in center (cut to test), 5 to 6 minutes; turn several times. Coarsely chop shrimp; mix with reserved 2 tablespoons marinade, cheese, onions, and chopped cilantro.

Cut a lengthwise slit down 1 side of each chile; discard seeds and stuff chiles equally with shrimp mixture. Set chiles, slits up, in a 10- by 15-inch pan. (If making ahead, cover and chill up to 1 day.) Sprinkle tortilla chips onto the chiles.

Bake, uncovered, in a 350 |degrees~ oven until filling is hot in center, 8 to 10 minutes. Top chiles with salsa, cilantro sprigs, and sour cream. Makes 8 appetizer or 4 entree servings.

Per appetizer serving: 180 cal. (46 percent from fat); 14 g protein; 9.1 g fat (4.9 g sat.); 11 g carbo.; 648 mg sodium; 75 mg chol.

Teriyaki marinade. Mix 1/3 cup soy sauce, 2 tablespoons firmly packed brown sugar, 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger, 1 1/2 teaspoons grated orange peel, 1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic, and 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme leaves.

Yellow tomato salsa. Core and chop 1 large (about 1/2-lb.) yellow tomato; mix with 3 tablespoons chopped red onion, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, 2 tablespoons lime juice, 1 tablespoon chopped fresh jalapeno chile, and salt to taste. Makes about 1 cup.

Per 2 tablespoons: 8.3 cal. (11 percent from fat); 0.3 g protein; 0.1 g fat (0 g sat.); 1.9 g carbo.; 3.5 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Flash-fried chiles rellenos with smoked shrimp. Follow directions for chiles rellenos with smoked shrimp (preceding); fill slit chiles but do not bake.

Beat 1 large egg with 1 tablespoon water. Dip filled chiles in egg mixture, then coat with finely crushed tortilla chips (about 2/3 cup total).

In a 10- to 12-inch frying pan, heat about 1 inch salad oil to 350 |degrees~. Add chiles, 2 or 3 at a time, and turn until lightly browned on all sides, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain on towels. Keep warm; serve hot as directed.--Gina Ziluca, Geronimo, Santa Fe

Per serving: 265 cal. (54 percent from fat); 15 g protein; 16 g fat (6 g sat.); 16 g carbo.; 693 mg sodium; 101 mg chol.

Flat Cheese or Chicken Enchiladas

About 1/2 cup regular-strength chicken or vegetable broth

3 corn tortillas (6 in. wide)

2 tablespoons minced onion

1/3 cup shredded cooked chicken (or an additional 1/3 cup cheddar cheese)

3/4 cup green or red chile sauce (recipes precede), warmed

1/2 cup shredded cheddar or jack cheese

1 softly fried egg (optional)

Sour cream (optional)

Pour broth into a 6- to 8-inch frying pan; place over medium-high heat. When broth simmers, immerse 1 tortilla at a time until limp, about 5 seconds. Drain in a single layer on towels.

Set 1 tortilla on a plate; top with 1/2 the onion, 1/3 the chicken, 1/3 the chile sauce, and 1/3 the cheese. Repeat layers with cheese on top. Place in a 350 |degrees~ oven until cheese melts, about 5 minutes. Top with fried egg, and add sour cream to taste. Serves 1.--Laura Jaramillo Swendson, Rancho de Chimayo, Chimayo, New Mexico

Per serving: 631 cal. (41 percent from fat); 37 g protein; 29 g fat (14 g sat.); 59 g carbo.; 552 mg sodium; 101 mg chol.

Carne Adovada

4 pounds boned pork shoulder or butt, fat trimmed, cut into 1-inch slices

2 1/2 cups red chile sauce (recipe precedes)

1 tablespoon dried oregano leaves

Salt

Mix pork slices, red chile sauce, and oregano in a 9- by 13-inch pan; cover tightly with foil.

Bake in a 350 |degrees~ oven until meat is very tender when pierced, about 3 hours. Skim and discard fat. Add salt to taste. Serves 8 to 10.--Bell Mondragon, Maria Ysabel Restaurant, Santa Fe

Per serving: 312 cal. (46 percent from fat); 36 g protein; 16 g fat (5.2 g sat.); 5.4 g carbo.; 141 mg sodium; 122 mg chol.
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Title Annotation:recipes
Author:Anusasananan, Linda Lau
Publication:Sunset
Date:Sep 1, 1993
Words:1569
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