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Chicken with vinegar means adobo.

ADOBO, A CLASSIC FILIPINO TYPE of meat cookery, can be a casserole, a stew, a barbecue, a saute, or some mixture of the above. Scott Skougard's formula begins with marinating the meat as for barbecuing, then browning it in oil, simmering it in the marinade, and then reducing the marinade to a sauce. He makes his adobo heart-friendly by removing the skin from the chicken and pouring off the fat at two stages during cooking. As he says, adobo is easy to prepare, keeps well for days in the refrigerator, and reheats appetizingly in the microwave. He recommends serving it with stir-fried vegetables, steamed white rice, and fresh fruit, with iced tea or beer as a beverage.

Adobos may contain other ingredients than those listed below; coconut milk and hot peppers are two of many possibilities. What is essential to any adobo is vinegar.

Filipino Adobo

6 chicken thighs (about 1 3/4 lb. total) About 1 1/2 pounds pork back ribs 3/4 cup rice vinegar 1/3 cup reduced-sodium soy sauce 2 tablespoons minced garlic 1 teaspoon Oriental sesame oil 1/4 teaspoon pepper 2 teaspoons salad oil Thinly sliced green onion (including top)

Remove skin from chicken and discard; rinse thighs.

Trim and discard excess fat from ribs; cut ribs into 2-rib pieces. In a deep bowl, combine vinegar, soy, garlic, sesame oil, pepper, and 1/4 cup water. Add meats and mix well. Cover and chill at least 15 minutes or up to 6 hours; mix occasionally.

Lift meat from marinade; drain and pat dry. Save marinade.

Pour salad oil into a 5- to 6-quart pan over medium-high heat. When oil is hot, add chicken and turn to brown well, about 12 minutes total. Remove from pan and drain on towels. Add ribs to pan; turn to brown well, about 10 minutes total. Drain ribs on towels. Drain fat from pan; add reserved marinade and scrape browned bits in pan free. Add chicken and pork. Bring to a boil on high heat; cover and simmer until meat at bones is no longer pink (cut to test), 25 to 30 minutes longer.

With a slotted spoon, transfer meats to a platter; keep warm. Skim and discard fat from cooking liquid; boil liquid, uncovered, over high heat until reduced to about 3/4 cup. Pour over meats and garnish with green onion. Makes 6 servings.

Per serving: 304 cal. (56 percent from fat); 29 g protein; 19 g fat (6.2 g sat.); 3.6 g carbo.; 640 mg sodium; 116 mg chol.

OUR NATIONAL OLEOPHOBIA (fear of fat) has decreed that gravies and rich sauces are out. What do we substitute as adornment for fish, flesh, or fowl?

One answer is a chutney, which might be described as a complex hybrid of a fruit preserve and a pickle. Originally from India, and best known with a base of mango, chutneys are now made from almost any fruit (including the tomato).

Peg Roberts sends us a chutney based on lemons. She tells us that her inspiration comes from a prize-winning New Zealand recipe. Her version, we observe, is no less a winner.

Lemon Chutney

2 to 2 1/4 pounds (6 to 8 medium-size) lemons 2 large (about 1 lb. total) onions, chopped 3 tablespoons salt 2 cups distilled white vinegar 4 cups sugar 1 cup raisins 1/4 cup mustard seed 2 teaspoons ground ginger 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon cayenne

Trim off and discard the lemon ends. Then thinly slice the lemons and discard the seeds. Cut the lemon slices in half and place in a large bowl with the onions and the salt. Cover and let the lemon mixture stand at room temperature for at least 4 hours or up to 1 day.

Drain the lemon mixture in a colander and rinse well under cold water. In a 5- to 6-quart pan, combine the lemon mixture and 2 cups water. Bring to a boil over high heat; reduce heat and boil gently, uncovered, until the lemon peel is very tender when pierced, about 15 minutes.

Mix in the vinegar, sugar, raisins, mustard seed, ginger, and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne (more for hotter flavor). Stir over low heat until the sugar dissolves; bring to boiling over high heat. Simmer, uncovered, until reduced to 2 quarts, about 1 hour; stir occasionally. Let cool, then spoon the chutney into small jars. Serve, or store airtight in the refrigerator up to 3 months. Makes 8 cups.

Per tablespoon: 32 cal. (2.8 percent from fat); 0.2 g protein; 0.1 g fat (0 g sat.); 8.4 g carbo.; 18 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.
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Title Annotation:Chefs of the West; recipes
Author:Griffiths, Joan; Dunmire, Richard
Article Type:Column
Date:Nov 1, 1993
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