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Chefs from Delhi to Djakarta have been peeking at each other's cook books.

United by their traditional use of spices, complex marinades, and tangy sauces, the cuisines of Southeast Asia and India offer similar lively blends of ingredients. So interchangeable are many of their basic foods and seasonings (which may have different names and be used in different ways) that one might imagine chefs from Delhi to Djakarta peeking at one another' cook books as they grill their skewered meats, grind their curry powders, and hand-spin their noodles.

States (or satays), for example, are generally considered Indonesia and Malaysian, but they may well turn up in Chinese restaurants, just as curries (usually regarded as Indian) are likely to appear on Indonesian, Thai, and Vietnamese menus.

Relations among these nationalities have not been frictionless, but they have been fruitful--to the extent that it is hard to say who first devised the art of combining meat and fruit. But why struggle to apportion credit? Let us rather thank all contributors, including Robert Reed.

Robert's Pork Sates 2/3 cup boiling water 2/3 cup unsweetened shredded coconut 1 pound lean boneless pork butt or shoulder 1/4 cup salad oil 1 tablespoon frozen orange juice concentrate, thawed 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 teaspoon each minced fresh ginger and sugar 1-1/2 tablespoons soy sauce 1 clove garlic, minced or pressed 4 fresh pineapple slices, each 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick, peeled 4 small slightly green bananas, peeled 3 cups hot cooked rice

In a small bowl, pour boiling water over coconut and let stand about 15 minutes.

Trim excess fat from pork; discard fat and cut meat into about 1-inch cubes.

Pour coconut mixture into a wire strainer over a bowl; press coconut to remove as much liquid as possible. Set coconut aside. Add to coconut liquid the oil, orange juice concentrate, lemon juice, ginger, sugar, soy sauce, and garlic, then stir in pork. Mix well and let stand 30 to 40 minutes at room temperature.

Meanwhile, spread the coconut in a 9- or 10-inch round or square pan. Broil about 6 inches from heat, stirring frequently, until the coconut is evenly browned, 10 to 12 minutes; set aside.

Lift pork from marinade, drain briefly, then thread on 4 slender wooden or metal skewers, leaving about 1/4 inch between pieces; reserve marinade.

To barbecue, place skewers on grill 4 to 6 inches above a solid bed of hot coals. Cook, turning and basting frequently with reserved marinade, until lightly browned on all sides and no longer pink in center (cut to test), about 10 minutes total. Right after putting pork on grill, place pineapple slices and bananas alongside meat. Baste with marinade and turn once or twice until lightly glazed and heated through.

To broil, place a 12- by 14-inch broiler pan about 2 inches from heat for about 3 minutes to warm pan. Quickly lay skewers in center of pan and return pan to broiler. Broil meat, turning to cook evenly, until it is no longer pink in center (cut to test), about 10 minutes total. About 3 minutes after you put meat in pan, lay pineapple and bananas around skewers and broil until hot and glazed, turning once or twice. Baste meat and fruit frequently with reserved marinade.

Stir coconut into hot cooked rice. Offer rice with the pork and fruit. Serves 4.

The world is divided into three kinds of people: those who love cilantro (fresh coriander), those who hate it, and those who have never heard of it. To the first group, the other two must live hopelessly deprived existences.

Not to be deprived, Joseph Moehler's shrimp Kino features cilantro in greater than usual quantity. The herb's distinctive flavor (resembling a cross between parsley and orange peel) blends with the dish's other unusual elements--tomatillos and mint--to create a delicious entree that will have your guests guessing.

Shrimp Kino 1 pound asparagus 3 tablespoons butter or margarine 3 tablespoons olive oil or salad oil 1 cup diced celery 2 tomatillos (about 2-in. diameter, with pods removed), diced 1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint 1-1/2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 pound medium-zie shrimp, shelled and deveined Salt and pepper 3 to 4 cups hot cooked rice

Discard tough asparagus ends, then cut spears diagonally into 1/2-inch-long pieces; set aside.

Melt butter with oil in a work or 10- to 12-inch frying pan over high heat; when mixture is hot, add asparagus, celery, tomatillos, and cilantro. Cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Add mint, lemon juice, and shrimp, and continue to cook, stirring, until shrimp turn pink and vegetables are tender-crisp to bite, 3 to 5 more minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve with hot rice. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

If you are making a simple green dinner salad, a simple vinaigrette is usually an appropriate dressing. If, on the other hand, you fix a salad as a main dish, you may wish to prepare a heartier topping. To match his makings, chef Sidney Newell of Sun City West, Arizona, tops his seafood salads with a sauce that delightfully complicates a Louis dressing with pimiento, green pepper, and tarragon.

Newell advised against substituting catsup for the chili sauce. But, he suggests, keep the dressing on hand to ladle onto crisp salad greens, salads of mixed greens and vegetables, and sliced vegetables such as tomatoes and cucumbers.

Sun City Salad Dressing 1 large egg 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 teaspoon dry mustard 1 teaspoon prepared horseradish 1/2 teaspoon dry tarragon 6 to 8 drops liquid hot pepper seasoning 1 cup salad oil 1/2 cup tomato-based chili sauce 2 tablespoons chopped canned pimiento 3 tablespoons chopped green pepper 1 tablespoon chopped green onion

In a blender or food processor, combine egg, lemon juice, mustard, horseradish, tarragon, and hot pepper seasoning. With blender running, start pouring oil in slowly, then add oil more quickly as mixure thickens. Add chili sauce, pimiento, green pepper and green onion.

Blend (don't puree) the ingredients for about 5 seconds. Serve, or cover and refrigerate for as long as 1 week. Makes about 2 cups; allow 2 to 3 tablespoons for an individual salad.

Determined to win over a friend who had been forced to eat bell peppers as a child and who consequently wanted nothing to do with them as an adult, Stuart Cox hit upon a hot idea. The friend was a chili lover, and to him the big red, green, and yellow bells were Samsons shorn of their strength. So Cox added fire to the sweet bells with a large dose of black pepper (no relation) and suggested a Mexican influence with cumin. Thus was hair put on Samson's chest, if not on his head.

Peppered Peppers 2 tablespoons olive oil or salad oil 1 medium-size onion, finely chopped 2 teaspoons each coarsely ground pepper and ground cumin 2 cloves garlic, minced or pressed 2 each medium-size red and green bell peppers, seeded and cut into 1-inch squares 1/4 cup dry while wine Salt

Pour oil into a 10- to 12-inch frying pan on medium-high heat; add onion, ground pepper, cumin, and garlic. Cook, stirring often, until onion is limp, about 10 minutes. Stir in bell peppers, then pour in wine. Cover and simmer until peppers are tender-crisp to bite, 4 to 5 minutes. Season with salt. Serves 4 to 6.

If you keep some of Kevin Walsh's blue cheese dip in the refrigerator, you will never be at a loss for appetizers to serve unexpected guests while you decide what to give them for dinner.

You may even find that--having snacked on ample raw vegetables, chips, crackers, and dip--your guests may not need anything else. This, you see, is not a skinny dip; it is sustaining. And don't limit it to dipping. It makes a choice topping for baked potatoes, broccoki, and peas.

Blue-Chevre Cheese Dip 1 cup sour cream 1 small package (3 oz.) cream cheese, at room temperature 1/4 cup (about 2 oz.) crumbled goat cheese, such as an unripened chevre, or bucheron 3/4 teaspoon each dry fines herbes and dry dill weed 1/4 teaspoon fresh ground pepper 1 clove gardlic, minced or pressed 1/3 cup (3 oz.) crumbled blue cheese 5 to 8 cups raw vegetables (such as carrots, cauliflower, green beans, cucumbers, zucchini, green onions) cut into sticks or bite-size pieces, or 1 hot baked potato per serving.

In a mixer bowl, combine sour cream, cream cheese, chevre, fines herbes, dill weed, pepper, and garlic; beat on medium speed until mixture is smooth and well blended. Then stir in the blue cheese. Cover and refrigerate until cold, at least 2 hours or as long as 5 days. Serve as a dip for raw vegetables or spoon over hot baked potatoes. Makes about 1-3/4 cups, or 9 to 14 servings of 2 to 3 tablespoons each.
COPYRIGHT 1985 Sunset Publishing Corp.
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 1985 Gale, Cengage Learning. All rights reserved.

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Date:Jun 1, 1985
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