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Chambray All Day Tunic.

Add embroidery to a chambray tunic for an upscale peasant look that's perfect for spring. Learn how to draft, embroider and construct a hidden placket that features a bold design.

MATERIALS

+ Tunic pattern with placket (such as Sew News Stripe Hype Tunic; see "Source")

+ 2 1/4 yards of chambray fabric

+ 3/4 yard of 20"-wide fusible sheer woven or tricot interfacing

+ Mediumweight cut-away stabilizer

+ Six 1/2"-diameter buttons

+ Tracing paper

+ Thread: all-purpose, bobbin & matte embroidery

+ Temporary spray adhesive

+ Removable fabric marker

+ Button placket embroidery design (approximately 3/4" x 2 3/4"; see "Design")

PREPARE

* To create the hidden placket, trace a copy of the placket pattern onto tracing paper, excluding seam allowances and buttonholes. Label the vertical centerline as "Foldline A" and the right long edge as "Foldline B."

* Draw a vertical line 1 1/4" from and parallel to foldline B; label as "Foldline C." Draw a vertical line 1 1/4" from and parallel to foldline C; label as "Foldline D."

* Add 5/8" seam allowances to the perimeter. Transfer the original placket pattern buttonholes to the pattern between foldlines B and C.

* Draw a horizontal line 1 1/2" from and parallel to the sleeve lower-edge foldline; cut along the new line (A).

* From the chambray, cut one front and one back on the fold, four yokes, two neckbands, two tabs and one placket. Transfer all the pattern markings.

* Position the hidden-placket pattern over the chambray wrong side, aligning the grainlines. Trace the pattern perimeter and foldlines using a removable fabric marker. Cut out the hidden placket 3" beyond the pattern perimeter. Repeat to cut two sleeves from the chambray.

* From the interfacing, cut one neckband, one tab, two yokes, one placket, one hidden placket and two 3"x width of fabric strips for the sleeve hems.

* Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the neckband, tab, yokes and placket, following the manufacturer's instructions.

* Mark a vertical centerline on the hidden-placket wrong side between the left seamline and foldline A, and a horizontal centerline between the upper and lower edges, using a removable fabric marker (B). Transfer the centerpoint to the fabric right side.

* Mark a vertical centerline on each sleeve wrong side between the sleeve underarm seamlines and a horizontal centerline W from the lower-edge foldline (C). Transfer the centerpoint to the fabric right side.

EMBROIDER

* Load the placket design onto the machine. Thread the needle with matte embroidery thread and matching bobbin thread.

* Measure the placket length, excluding seam allowances and minus 1/4:"; record. Choose a hoop slightly larger than the recorded measurement.

* On the machine screen, duplicate the design twice and align all three designs along the hoop vertical centerline. Group the designs together, and then increase the design size until the length matches the recorded placket-length measurement.

* Hoop a piece of cut-away stabilizer. Mark the hoop centerlines using a removable fabric marker. Spray temporary adhesive on the stabilizer.

* With right sides together, fold the hidden placket along the vertical centerline. Position the fabric over the hoop, aligning the vertical and horizontal lines with the hoop centerlines. Unfold the fabric and gently smooth it onto the stabilizer; fingerpress to secure.

* Place the hoop onto the machine. Lower the needle to check the alignment with the fabric design center. If needed, move the needle position for proper alignment.

* Embroider the designs.

* Remove the hoop from the machine. Trim the jump threads. Remove the fabric and stabilizer from the hoop. Cut away the excess stabilizer beyond the design perimeter.

* Repeat to embroider the sleeves, increasing the number of designs as needed.

* Position the hidden-placket pattern over the embroidered fabric, aligning the perimeter with the marked outline. Make sure the embroidery is centered between the left seamline and foldline A, and between the upper and lower edges. If needed, adjust the pattern and redraw the pattern perimeter.

* Once satisfied, cut out the hidden placket. Fuse the corresponding interfacing to the placket wrong side. Transfer the foldlines to the interfacing wrong side. Transfer the buttonhole markings to the fabric right side, using a removable fabric marker.

* Repeat to cut out each sleeve, making sure the embroidery is centered between the underarm seamlines and the embroidery lower edge is 1/4" from the lower-edge foldline. Fuse the interfacing strips to the sleeve lower edges.

CONSTRUCT

* Construct the tunic according to the pattern instructions, until the right placket.

* Fold the hidden placket along foldline D with wrong sides together; press. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4". Fold along foldline C with wrong sides together; press.

* Stitch buttonholes at each marking on the fabric right side. Cut open the buttonholes (D).

* Fold along foldline B with right sides together, aligning foldline C with foldline A; press. Fold along foldline A with wrong sides together; press.

* Unfold the placket along foldline A, keeping foldlines A and C aligned.

* Stitch horizontally across the placket between buttonholes three and four, through the three layers and beginning and ending 1/4" from the placket long edges.

* Fold along foldline A with right sides together. Stitch the upper edge. Grade the seams and turn right side out.

* Continue constructing the placket according to the pattern instructions, until the sleeves.

* Run an ease stitch inside the sleevecap seamlines.

* Fold the sleeve lower edge Vs" toward the wrong side; press. Fold again 1 1/4" toward the wrong side; press. Unfold along the second foldlines.

* Stitch the sleeve underarm seam with right sides together; press open.

* Fold the sleeve lower edge along the foldline to the wrong side; pin. Slipstitch the hem in place.

* Finish constructing the tunic according to the pattern instructions.

DESIGNS

Floral placket: Great Notions, Floral Placket Embroidery Design; greatnotions.com

SOURCES

Pfaff provided the Creative 4.5 machine: pfaffusa.com.

Shop Sew it All carries the Stripe Hype Tunic pattern; shopsewitall.com.

PROMISING

PLACKETS

Try out placket designs to add quick embellishments that have a big impact.

* Placket designs are narrow to fit within plackets, whether when constructing a garment or embroidering on ready-made garments.

* Corresponding designs are usually available for collar points and yokes.

* Use placket designs to embroider other garment details, such as pocket upper edges, hemlines and necklines.

Caption: Stripe Hype Tunic, Sew News
COPYRIGHT 2018 Creative Crafts Group, LLC
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Article Details
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Author:Saba, Kim
Publication:Creative Machine Embroidery
Date:Jan 1, 2018
Words:1039
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