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Build the bed frame.

You'll want a large assembly table for this project. A full sheet of 3/4-in, plywood screwed to a pair of sturdy sawhorses does the trick. Otherwise, you'll need to work on the floor. Assemble the struts (GGG) from stock that's at least 1/4 in. too long and trim them to final length after assembly. Then join them to the frame sides (HHH) with screws (Photo 1).

The rest of the bed frame is made from oak plywood (G--J). The bed rails get 1-1/2-in. edging (KK) on the end and 3/4-in, edging on the top (LL); see Photo 2. For the curves on the rails, create a plywood template (Photo 3). Use the template to position hardware holes (Photo 4) and to mark the curves. Rough-cut the curves with a jigsaw. Smooth the curves by sanding or by running a pattern router bit along the template.

Attach the head rail, foot rail and side rails to the inner bed frame. Cut two pieces of plywood for the bed face panels (A). 'Trim one side and the top edge (where the foot of the bed will be) of each panel with 1/4-in. edging. Lay the two panels face down on your bench and butt the two pieces together so the hardwood edges are to the outside. Lay the assembled bed frame on top of the panels and attach with screws (Photo 5).

With a helper, carefully turn over the bed frame assembly so it's face up on your bench. Rip the stock for the faux panels and drawers (UU-BBB) to width. Use 1/8-in. spacers to create gaps between the faux doors and drawers and attach with glue and brads or pins (Photo 6). Be sparing with the glue to avoid squeeze-out, which is tough to clean up. Go ahead and mount the pulls and knobs. Be careful to avoid the inner frame structure when placing your hardware. Remove all the hardware until after the cabinet is finished. Cut and fit the mattress supports (X). Don't screw these into place until final assembly.

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Publication:The Family Handyman
Article Type:Brief article
Geographic Code:1USA
Date:Dec 1, 2014
Words:346
Previous Article:Murphy bed hardware.
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