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Boise birds; a festive fall dinner. Use wild or farm-grown fowl.

On opening day of pheasant season, Emily and Peter Schott (assisted by a crew and a well-rigged trailer kitchen) serve the elegant multi-course game dinner above to two dozen special guests on the banks of the Boise River in Idaho.

But the Schotts' festive dishes aren't limited to the hunter's kitchen; they work just as well in tamer conditions and for smaller parties.

For an easy start, buy farm-grown fresh or frozen quail, pheasant, and mallard ducks. You may need to place a special order-in some cases, weeks in advance. Try deluxe supermarkets, poultry or meat specialty stores, or game farms. Some of the farms will ship frozen or chilled birds, and some mail-order food catalogs also offer them. (The Schotts, chef-owners of Peter Schott's New American Cuisine Restaurant, use farm birds for this meal themselves. Since they like to age the meat briefly, wild birds shot on opening day aren't usable until 3 or 4 days later.) These specialty birds are relatively expensive. Quail range from $1 to $3 each. Pheasant cost $4 to $8 per pound, mallards $4 to $7 per pound. Shipping adds more to the costs.

You can capture the essence of this extravaganza at home, featuring 1 kind of game bird to serve a party of 8. If you have a cooking team, you might produce all the dishes. Each poultry choice supplies 8 servings; increase the leek and cabbage dishes proportionately with every increase of the poultry entree.

Start the meal with a stand-up presentation of cheese paired with raw vegetables and accompanied by champagne. Next, you might serve soup to sip from mugs a light broth or creamed mixture. If you have help, you could sit down to soup, then to a second course of the leeks.

Choose duck, pheasant, or quail as the menu focus. The braised red cabbage complements any of them. You can also bake small apples (top each with currant jelly) and Idaho potatoes to serve with the birds. A full-bodied, mellow Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, or Merlot is a good wine selection to accompany this meal.

Dessert might be as simple as fresh pears and nuts, or as elaborate as the Schotts' two-tone chocolate mousse.

You can make the leeks and their dressing, the cabbage, and the dessert 1 to 2 days ahead. Several hours before serving, start the mushroom sauce for the pheasants or marinate the ducks. When cooking the birds, take care to keep them slightly underdone as directed, or they will get dry and stringy Reheat cabbage to serve.

If you don't want to prepare this whole menu, you can use the dishes singly, incorporating them into one of your own favorite menus. The sweet-tart braised cabbage goes well with roast pork, chicken, or grilled sausages. Offer the leeks as a light lunch or as a fancy appetizer salad to start an elegant dinner.

Grilled Mallard Ducks with Soy

4 mallard ducks (each 2 to 2 1/2 Lb.) 3 cloves garlic, pressed or minced 3/4 cup light soy sauce 1/4 teaspoon crushed dried hot red chilies

2 lemons, cut into wedges 1/2 cup canned lingonberries

About 2 cups watercress sprigs, rinsed and crisped

Cut ducks in half lengthwise with poultry shears, or use a hammer to pound a heavy knife through bone. Remove backbones. Cut off wings at upper joints. On each duck half, start at edge of breast and slide a small, sharp knife parallel to the bone, cutting meat free from breast and back bones. Then cut thigh from body so you end up with boned body meat with a leg attached. Trim off any loose skin flaps. If breast fillets fall free, reserve. Reserve wings and carcass bones for broth. Rinse duck halves and pat dry.

Place duck halves in a large plastic bag set in a dish or pan. Add garlic, soy, and chilies. Seal bag and turn to coat meat well. Cover and chill, turning often, at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours.

Lay duck halves out flat, skin down, on a grill 4 to 6 inches above a solid bed of medium-hot coals (you can hold your hand at grill level only 3 to 4 seconds). Cook, turning often to brown evenly and avoid burning and flares, until breast is still red and moist in the center of the thickest part (cut to test) but no longer wet-looking, about 20 minutes. Place on a platter; if needed, keep warm in a 150 degree oven up to 30 minutes. Garnish duck with lemon, lingonberries, and watercress. Makes 8 servings.

Accurate nutritional data not available. Estimated 580 calories per serving.

Quail in Raspberry Sauce

16 quail (each about 4 oz.) 2 to 3 tablespoons salad oil 1/2 cup sugar 1/2 cup raspberry vinegar or red wine vinegar

2 cups regular-strength chicken broth

1 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 1/2 tablespoons water

1 cup fresh or partially thawed, frozen, unsweetened raspberries

2 tablespoons brandy 2 tablespoons lemon juice Salt and white pepper

Rinse birds and pat dry; save necks and giblets for another use.

Pour 2 tablespoons oil into a 10- to 12inch frying pan over medium-high heat. Add birds, a few at a time (do not crowd), and brown all over, about 5 minutes per bird; add oil as needed. Arrange birds, breast up and slightly apart, on a rack in a 12- by 1 7-inch roasting pan.

Roast birds in a 400 degree oven until breasts are still red and moist in center but not wet-looking (cut into breast just above wing joint to test), 12 to 15 minutes. Place on a platter if needed; keep warm in a 150 degree oven up to 30 minutes. Reserve roasting juices.

Meanwhile, to the frying pan add sugar and 1 tablespoon vinegar. Cook over medium-high heat until sugar liquefies and turns a golden caramel color, 3 to 5 minutes. While stirring, add remaining vinegar; simmer, stirring, until caramel dissolves, about 2 minutes. Add broth and quail roasting juices; boil, uncovered, until reduced by 1/2, about 15 minutes. Mix cornstarch and water; stir into sauce. Stir until boiling. Add raspberries, brandy, lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste. Pour over birds. Makes 8 servings.

Per serving: 458 cal; 40 g protein; 27 g fat; 12 g carbo.; 121 mg sodium,- 0 mg chol

Pheasants and Chanterelles

2 pheasants (each 2 to 21/2 lb.) 2 tablespoons salad oil 1 cup each coarsely chopped onion, carrot, and celery 10 dry juniper berries

6 whole cloves 1 clove garlic, pressed or minced 1 teaspoon minced fresh sage, or 1/4 teaspoon dry rubbed sage

About 3 cups water 4 slices (4 oz. total) salt pork or bacon

Mushroom sauce (recipe follows)

Rinse pheasants and pat dry. Remove necks; reserve giblets for another use.

Put oil in a 10- to 1 2-inch frying pan; place pan over medium-high heat. Add birds and necks; cook, turning to brown all sides, about 10 minutes.

Place browned birds, breast up, on a rack in a 12- by 15-inch roasting pan. To frying pan with necks add onion, carrot, celery, juniper berries, cloves, garlic, and sage; cook over medium heat, stirring often, until onion is limp. Add 3 cups water Boil, uncovered, until liquid is reduced by 1/2, 10 to 15 minutes. Pour mixture through a fine strainer and measure; you need I cup broth. As necessary, return broth to pan and boil until reduced to I cup, or add water to make I cup; reserve broth for mushroom sauce, following. Discard vegetables and skim the fat ftom the broth.

Drape birds with salt pork. Roast in a 400 degree oven, brushing often with pan juices, until breast meat at bone is white with a touch of pink but no longer wet and soft (cut to the bone parallel to wing joint to test), 30 to 40 minutes.

As the birds cook, prepare the mushroom sauce. When pheasants are done, pour any pan juices into the mushroom sauce. Remove salt pork ftom pheasant. With poultry shears or a heavy knife with a hammer to pound it through the bone, cut each pheasant in half lengthwise along backbone and through the breastbone. Cut halves crosswise to make quarters. Place on platter. Spoon sauce onto birds. If needed, keep warm in a 150 degree oven up to 30 minutes. Makes 8 servings.

Per serving., 583 cal. ; 46 g protein; 41 g fat: 5.5 g carbo.; 326 -g sodium,- 37 mg chol.

Mushroom sauce. In the same frying pan used to brown pheasants, melt 2 tablespoons butter or margarine over mediumhigh heat. Add '/4 teaspoon minced garlic, I tablespoon minced shallot, and 3 cups (9 oz.) chanterelles or thinly sliced common mushrooms. Cook, stirring often, until mushrooms are lightly browned and liquid evaporates, about 5 minutes. Stir 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour into pan. Smoothly stir in 1 cup dry white wine and reserved broth (from pheasant recipe). Boil, uncovered, stirring often, until reduced by 1/3, about 5 minutes. Add 1/2 cup whipping cream and bring to a boil. Add salt and white pepper to taste.

Poached Leeks with Valencia Dressing

8 leeks (about 11/2-in. diameter), about 21/2 pounds total

8 small fuchsia-colored salad savoy or radicchio leaves

3/4 pound tiny shelled cooked shrimp

Valencia dressing (recipe follows)

In a 5- to 6-quart pan bring about 3 quarts water to boiling. Meanwhile, trim roots and tough dark green tops from leeks. Cut leeks in half lengthwise. Wash leeks thoroughly, gently rinsing between layers. If leeks tend to separate, tie each half at its midpoint with a cotton string. Drop leeks into boiling water and simmer, uncovered, until tender when pierced, 6 to 8 minutes. Drain and immerse in ice water. When cool, drain thoroughly. Remove strings. If made ahead, cover and chill up until the next day.

On each of 8 salad or dinner plates, place 2 leek halves; beside them arrange equal portions salad savoy leaves and shrimp, then top with dressing. Makes 8 servings.

Per serving., 240 cal.; 11 g protein; 15 g fat, 19 g carbo.; 115 mg sodium; 83 mg chol.

Valencia dressing. Combine 1/3 cup finely chopped white onion, 1/2 cup finely chopped red bell pepper, 1/3 cup cider vinegar, '/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, 1/4 cup salad oil, 2 tablespoons honey, 1/2 teaspoon minced garlic, and '/4 teaspoon cayenne. Mix well. Cover and chill at least 4 hours or up until next day. Makes 11/2 cups.

Burgundy Apple Chestnut Cabbage

2 1/2 pounds (1 large head) red cabbage

2 cups dry red wine

1/2 cup lemon juice

1/2 cup firmly packed brown sugar

2 Red Delicious apples (1 lb. total), quartered, cored, and thinly sliced

1/4 cup (1/8 lb.) butter or margarine

1 large onion, finely chopped

1 dry bay leaf

1 cup regular-strength chicken broth

1 can (10 oz. drained weight) chestnuts in water, drained

Salt and white pepper

Core and cut cabbage into 1/4 -inch-wide strips. In a large bowl, combine cabbage, wine, lemon juice, sugar, and apples. Mix well. If made ahead, cover and let stand up to overnight.

In a 6- to 8-quart pan, melt butter over medium-high heat until bubbly. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until light gold, about 5 minutes. Add cabbage mixture, bay leaf, and broth. Simmer, covered, until cabbage wilts, 10 to 15 minutes. Uncover and boil gently, stirring occasionally, until cabbage is very tender when pierced, 45 to 50 minutes. (If made abead, cool, cover, and chill until the next day; reheat to continue.) If liquid remains in pan, boil, uncovered, until it evaporates, stirring occasionally. Stir in chestnuts. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until chestnuts are hot, about 5 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serves 8.

Per serving : 217 cal ; 3.1 g pro tein; 6.9 g fat; 39 g carbo.; 97 mg sodium; 16 mg chol.

Two-tone Chocolate Mousse

Dark mousse (recipe follows) White mousse (recipe follows) Custard sauce (recipe follows) 3/4 cup chopped salted pistachios 2 to 3 cups raspberries, rinsed and drained

Whipped cream (optional)

Line a 4- by 8-inch loaf pan with plastic wrap. Spread 1/2 of the dark mousse in bottom of pan. Chill until firm, about 30 minutes. Spread all of white mousse evenly on dark mousse. Chill until firm, about 30 minutes. If remaining dark mousse has firmed, stir over hot water until fluid but not hot (if overbeated, let cool); spread over white mousse. Cover and chill until firm, at least 4 hours or up to 3 days.

Invert layered mousse onto a board or platter; remove plastic. With a thin, sharp knife, cut mousse into 12 to 14 equal slices; wipe blade between cuts. Lay slices on dessert plates. (If done ahead, cover and chill up until next day.) Pour an equal amount of custard onto each plate. Garnish equally with pistachios, berries, and whipped cream. Makes 12 to 14 servings.

Per serving : 403 cal; 5.9 g protein; 27 g fat; 35 g carbo.; 41 mg sodium; 152 mg chol.

Dark mousse. In the top of a double boiler, combine 10 ounces semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped; 2/3 cup whipping cream; and 1/4 cup (1/8 lb.) unsalted butter or margarine. Stir over simmering water just until smooth. Remove from heat. Stir in until smooth 2 large egg yolks, 2/3 cup sifted powdered sugar, and 1/4 cup rum.

White mousse. In the top of a double boiler, combine 6 ounces white chocolate, chopped; 2 tablespoons whipping cream; and 2 tablespoons unsalted butter or margarine. Stir over simmering water just until melted and smooth. Remove from beat. Stir in until smooth I large egg yolk and 1 tablespoon rum. Cool to lukewarm. Custard sauce. In a 1 1/2- to 2-quart pan, scald 2 cups milk. In a double boiler top, mix 1 large egg, 2 large egg yolks, and 1/3 cup sugar. Add milk and stir over simmering water until custard thickly coats a metal spoon, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from beat. Add 2 tablespoons rum or orange-flavored liqueur and 1 teaspoon vanilla. Cool, cover, and chill up to 2 days.
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Copyright 1989 Gale, Cengage Learning. All rights reserved.

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Title Annotation:recipes
Date:Oct 1, 1989
Previous Article:Cold soup to football cookies ... before-the-game picnic.
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