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Appendix C Advanced sculptures.

Gibson Girl

Eye protection, whether a person normally wears eyeglasses or not, is a very important but often overlooked necessity. Ice chips, slush, and water fly off of grinder pads and chain saw blades at tremendous velocities.

SCULPTOR'S TIP

This procedure produces the best resins when the entire sculpture is done in a freezer.

Required Tools

* Master tool list

* Rotary tool with 1/8" bit

* Die grinder with taped oft 1/4" end mill bit

* Squeeze bottle

* Pitcher

* Knife

* Supplies for the Maxfield Color Method

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1. Apply the left and right side templates. Using the chain saw, "z-cut" the block to create two equal ice sheets with bases.

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2. Lay one "z-cut' sheet onto a carving table lined with a sufficient amount of Ethafoam. Etch in all the lines with the 1/8" bit.

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3. Sand off the template paper.

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4. Hollow out the negative space in each section with the 1/4" bit. To keep a constant depth, measure an inch from the tip of the bit and wrap duct tape around the bit, leaving 1" of the cutting surface exposed. This will be your depth guide. Start in the center of the negative space and work to the edge of the traced lines. Keep a brush close to remove snow.

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5. Cut away the outside silhouette.

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6. Using an ice pick, knife, and brush, carefully remove all snow from pockets. If available, an air compressor is ideal for this.

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7. Place in freezer to set. Lay on a flat, level surface, and pour color mixture into each small hollow area using a squeeze bottle. Follow the Maxfield Coloring Method (see Chapter 11). For larger areas, a pitcher can be used.

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8. Let the color freeze completely. Repack detail lines with clean, dry snow. Brush all excess snow from the surface and then glaze the surface with cool water.

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9. Stand the block upright and brush off any excess debris. Butterfly

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Butterfly

SAFETY TIP

The artisan must take personal responsibility for his actions, be organised in his work, and always adhere to safe practices.

SCULPTOR'S TIP

When shaping with a rubberizer, remove a little at a time. Whittling away at the ice will give you more control in creating an evenly-shaped surface.

Required Tools

* Master tool list

* Rotary tool with 1/8" bit

* Rubberizer or rasp

* Hot water bag

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1. Place only the left and right side templates on the ice. Use these templates as a guide to angle both the front and back surfaces of the ice. Cut out a V -shaped section from the back of the butterfly, between the wings.

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2. Once your ice block is shaped properly, you can attach the front and bark templates to the ice. Using a bit, transfer all template lines onto the ice on both sides.

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3. Sand off the template and clean out any template paper from the detail etches with an ice pick and brush.

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4. Cut out the front view silhouette.

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5. Taper the edges of the wings by removing all square edges so that the outside edges are thinner than the part of the wing nearest the body. This will make the wings appear delicate, yet leave them durable for transportation and display.

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6. Use the chain saw to taper the lower wings under the bottom of the upper wings. This will help to give them the appearance of overlapping.

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7. Carefully remove all template debris from detail lines and pack them with clean, dry snow.

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8. With a rubberizer, create concave areas behind each of the indentations on the back of the wings.

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9. Use the rubberizer or round-end rasp to round off and shape the body.

10. With a 1/8" bit, etch in details of the head and lower body.

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11. Brush off the sculpture completely and polish the surfaces with a hot water bag.

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Tuna

SAFETY TIP

Tools must be properly selected for their use, maintained adequately, and used according to the manufacturer's design in order to produce good results safely.

SCULPTOR'S TIP

After cutting away both the front and the side silhouettes you need to clean the ice off completely.

Required Tools

* Master tool list

* Rotary tool with 1/8" bit

* Rubberizer

* Handsaw

* Hot water bag

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1. Apply all templates, being certain to line up with all corresponding lines on the front template. Make score cuts from both sides.

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2. Use the 1/8" bit to transfer lines onto the ice.

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3. Sand away the template paper.

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4. Cut away outside the front silhouette.

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5. Lay the block on its back to cutaway the bottom silhouette.

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6. Stand the block upright on its new base and finish the side silhouettes, using score cuts as your guide.

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7. Trim off all the sharp corners.

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8. Round the body by blending together the front and side silhouettes.

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9. Define the details near the tail.

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10. Round the center section of the tail.

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11. Gently shape and blend the surface of the body with a handsaw.

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12. Taper the outside edges of all the fins using the rubberizer.

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13. Divide the dorsal fins with the chain saw.

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14. Etch in detail lines on the fins.

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15. Define the details of the face and gills using the 1/8" bit.

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16. Sand the base below the face.

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17. Clean all debris and snow from the sculpture. Carefully smooth and blend the contours of the body and face using a hot water bag.

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Cannon

SAFETY TIP

When dismantling the sculpture, lay the entire block down so that when the base is cut off it won't fall.

SCULPTOR'S TIP

Remember not to overheat the aluminum. Room temperature is warm enough, and overheated aluminum will

Required Tools

* Master tool list

* Aluminum

* Die grinder with 1/4" and 1/8" bits

* Clothes iron

* Hot water bag

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1. Remove a 1" slab from the full surface of the 20" x 40" block.

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2. Lay the 20" X 40" x 1" sheet on an Ethafoam surface. Apply the wheel template. Working from the center of the design toward the outside edges, carefully trace all lines with the 1/4" bit. Be sure to etch no more than 1/4" deep into the ice.

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3. Using the 1/4" bit, cut and completely remove the triangular sections of ice between the spokes of each wheel. After the negative-space ice from both wheels has been cut and removed, trim the outer circle of each wheel with a chain saw.

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4. Sand away the template paper.

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5. Clean out any template paper from the detail etches with an ice pick and brush.

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6. On the remaining ice, apply the plank/cannon front Template. Also apply the left side cannon barrel template, lining up all corresponding lines with the front template.

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7. Cut 1" deep along the outside silhouette of the plank template. Be careful to stay outside the lines and inside the negative space of the block.

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8. Following the plank outline, slice a 1" slice from the side of the block to form the plank. Be careful not to cut into the area of the cannon barrel template.

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9. Apply the base template at the top of the surface area now exposed by removing the plank, and cut and remove the base from the block. Remove all but a 3" base from the remaining ice below where the base was cut to expose the entire right side of the cannon barrel.

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10. Apply the right side cannon barrel template to the newly exposed ice surface. Cut all lines to 2" deep.

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11. Cutaway the cannon barrel side silhouette.

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12. Cut away the cannon barrel front silhouette.

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13. Remove the four corner edges to form eight sides of the cannon barrel (see Chapter 5). Use the saw blade to round and smooth the exterior of the cannon barrel.

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14. Finish rounding the surface of the barrel using a hot water bag.

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15. Fuse the base and plank pieces together (see Chapter 7).

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16. Polish the top surface of the plank with warmed aluminum.

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17. Using the warmed aluminum, plane down one surface of the barrel 1/2" to create an edge at the center of the barrel.

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18. Attach the barrel to the plank, lining up the flattened edges. Fuse the wheels to each side of the barrel.

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Title Annotation:Part 1: Gibson Girl-Cannon
Publication:Ice Sculpting the Modern Way
Article Type:Appendix
Geographic Code:1USA
Date:Jan 1, 2004
Words:1500
Previous Article:Appendix B Intermediate sculptures.
Next Article:Appendix C Advanced sculptures.
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