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Appendix B Intermediate sculptures.

Logo

SAFETY TIP

Ear protection ns needed primarily to insulate the eardrum from the loud decibels and high-pitched noises that emanate from the motors.

SCULPTOR'S TIP

Make sure chat the surface area you place the transparency on is completely dry. Any water that gets between the ice and the transparency will become cloudy when is freezes and will detract from the appearance of the logo when viewing from fie front.

Required Tools

* Master tool list

* Transparency

* Die grinder with 1/4" end mill bit

* Heat gun

* Blowtorch

* Metal yardstick

[ILLUSTRATIONS OMITTED]

1. Apply the left and right side templates. Using a chain saw, "z-cut" the block to create two equal ice sheets with bases.

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2. Apply the front and back templates.

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3. Use a 1/4" router bit and die grinder to transfer curved lines on both sides.

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4. Use a chain saw to transfer straight detail lines on both sides.

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5. Remove the template with a sander.

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6. Clean out any template paper from the detail etches with an ice pick and brush.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

7. Cut away the negative space around the outside silhouette.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

8. Lay the block flat. Pack all detail lines with clean, dry snow.

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9. Use the ice pick to carefully remove ice around inside edge of circle.

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10. Sand inside of the circle to a 1" depth as evenly as possible, occasionally removing snow to keep track of your progress.

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11. Stand the ice up and completely remove all snow debris from inside the circle.

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12. Gently melt away sander marks on inside of the circle with heat gun.

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13. Place pre-cut transparency inside the recessed area of the circle so that the front side of the transparency is face down against the ice.

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14. Carefully pack the circle tightly behind the transparency with clean, dry snow. Make sure the transparency does not move during this process.

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15. Pour cool water over the surface of the snow to glaze and seal the snow.

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16. Scrape off all excess snow, creating a level surface with a metal yardstick.

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17. Stand the sculpture upright and brush off any loose snow and ice particles. Then glaze the piece with a torch and stone in a freezer.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

New Year's Eve Display

SAFETY TIP

We recommend using only three-pronged, brightly colored, heavy duty, insulated, rubber-coated extension cords for ice sculpting with power cools.

SCULPTOR'S TIP

Make sure your gloves are clean when packing detail lines.

Required Tools

* Master tool list

* Rotary tool with 1/8" bit

[ILLUSTRATIONS OMITTED]

1. Apply the left and right side templates. Using a chain saw, "z-cut" the block to create two equal ice sheets with bases.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

2. Lay the ice sheet flat with the based edge down on Ethafoam to properly support the ice. Apply the front template.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

3. Working from the center of the design towards the outside edges, carefully trace all the detail lines with the rotary tool and 1/8" bit.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

4. Using the sander, gently remove any remaining template paper.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

5. Clean out any template paper from the detail etches with an ice pick and brush.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

6. Pack the cleaned groves with clean, dry snow. Thoroughly brush all excess snow from the surface of the sculpture. Apply cool water over the entire sculpture to glaze the surface. Allow several minutes for the water to penetrate.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

7. Stand the sculpture on its base. Using the chain saw, remove excess ice to reveal the silhouette.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

8. Remove debris and snow with a hand brush.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

Wedding Bells

SAFETY TIP

A loss of focus can quickly lead to an accident, just as poor judgment can. One should always work within the safe limits of the situation.

SCULPTOR'S TIP

It may be helpful to place the level on the top of the aluminum when polishing off the base piece to make sure you are melting is evenly.

Required Tools

* Master tool list

* Aluminum

* Level

* Cloches iron

* Scriber or metal ruler

* Rotary tool with 1/8" bit

[ILLUSTRATIONS OMITTED]

1. Apply the left and right side templates. Split the block into two 5" x 20" x 40" sheets. Store the second sheet in a freezer until needed.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

2. Lay the block on its side, apply the front template and freeze with cool water.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

3. Working from the center of the design towards the outside edges, carefully trace all the lines with the rotary tool and 1/8" bit.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

4. Using the sander, remove any remaining template paper.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

5. Clean out any template paper from the detail etches with an ice pick and brush.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

6. Pack the cleaned grooves with clean, dry snow. Thoroughly brush all excess snow from the surface of the sculpture. Apply cool water over the entire sculpture to glaze the surface. Allow several minutes for the water to penetrate.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

7. Stand the sculpture on its side. Using the chain saw, remove excess ice to reveal the silhouette.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

8. Remove debris and snow by brushing ice sculpture with a hand brush.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

9. On the second sheet of ice, use a ruler or a scriber to mark off a 10" x 40" portion of the ice for abase.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

10. Using the scribed line, divide the sheet into two equal portions.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

11. Use warmed aluminum to polish off the surface of one of the 10" x 40" sheets. Remove any excess water from the surface.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

12. Check the polished section to ensure that it is level.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

13. Polish the bottom of the bells section.

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14. Place the bells section in the center of the 10" X 40" base section and add cool water around the seam.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

15. Use a sander to bevel off the base edges.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

Jukebox

SAFETY TIP

Proper lifting and handling of the ice will reduce or prevent unnecessary back swain.

SCULPTOR'S TIP

Make certain the initially shaped sculpture is sufficiently cold to allow the sub template to adhere securely to the ice.

Required Tools

* Master tool list

* Scissors

* Rotary tool with 1/8" bit

* Hoc water bag

[ILLUSTRATIONS OMITTED]

1. Apply all four templates. Be sure that the detail lines are properly aligned.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

2. Cut score lines from the left and right side templates.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

3. Transfer detail lines from the front template. These larger lines may be easier to transfer using a chain saw.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

4. Cut away the front view silhouette.

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5. Using the scone lines as a guide, cut the negative space away from the profile silhouette.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

6. Taper the underside of the shelf so that it slopes inward as it does on the left and the right sides.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

7. Smooth the surface with a sander.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

8. Stand the ice up to more easily clean away the snow and scrap ice. At this point it may be necessary to place the ice back in the freezer so that the secondary template adheres better.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

9. Lay the block on its back. Cut secondary template into appropriate sections to fit onto the ice.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

10. Apply the secondary templates, using cool water and a hand brush to make sure they are securely frozen to the ice.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

11. With a 1/8" bit and rotary tool, transfer all detail lines.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

12. Sand off the secondary template.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

13. Clean out any template paper from the detail etches with an ice pick and brush.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

14. Pack all detail lines with clean, dry snow.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

15. Use the sander to round the edges of the center speaker and clean off excess snow.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

16. Glaze over the snow-packed lines with cool water.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

17. Stand the jukebox up and polish the top section with a hot water bag.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

Castle

SAFETY TIP

Sculptors must be aware that they are using electrical tools around water. Proper grounding of electrical lines, and routine inspection of all electrical cords, will help to ensure a safe electrical environment.

SCULPTOR'S TIP

Remove any excess water from the surfaces of the front and back of the castle when fusing together. Trapped water may crack the piece when frozen. (Water expands when freezing.

Required Tools

* Master tool list

* Rotary tool with 1/8" bit

* Die grinder with a taped off 1/4" bit

* Clothes iron

* Aluminum

[ILLUSTRATIONS OMITTED]

1. Apply the left and right side templates. Split the block into two 5" x 20" x 40" sheets.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

2. Apply the front template on one sheet and the back template to the other sheet. Transfer the lines with a 1/8" bit and rotary tool.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

3. Using the sander, remove the template paper.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

4. With a chain saw, cut grooves into each rook top while they are still attached.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

5. Hollow out the window sections to a depth of 1" with a 1/4" bit and die grinder.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

6. Carefully cut and remove towers from the front section.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

7. With the chain saw, cut the silhouettes out on both sheets.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

8. Remove all snow debris from each component.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

9. Clean out any template paper from the detail etches with an ice pick and brush.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

10. Pack cleaned groves with clean, dry snow. Brush all excess snow from the surface.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

11. With warmed aluminum, polish the front surface of the back sheet and the back surface of the front sheet, and remove any excess water from the surfaces.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

12. Fuse the front section to the back section by carefully lining up the bottoms and sides.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

13. Polish the back sides of the rook sections.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

14. Fuse the rook tops to the back section towers.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

15. Polish the front section with the aluminum and remove excess water.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

16. Polish the individual towers and fuse them onto the front section by lining up the tower peaks.

17. Make sure all the pieces are frozen together, then slice 1 1/2" off the front surfaces of the rook tops and front towers.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

18. Carefully stand the castle upright. Brush or rinse off any snow or debris. Using an iron, bevel the tower pinnacles and the front tower corners.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

Cornucopia

SAFETY TIP

A proactive attitude towards safety will greatly reduce accidents.

SCULPTOR'S TIP

Before polishing the sculpture with a hot water bag, make sure it is completely free of all snow and ice debris. When you polish a piece that is not clean you run the risk of remaining scrap ice and snow freezing to the sculpture.

Required Tools

* Master tool list

* Heat gun

* Die grinder with 1/2" and/or 1/4" bit

* Rubberizer or rasp

* Power brush

* Hot water bag

[ILLUSTRATIONS OMITTED]

1. Apply the templates to all four sides. Make sure that the side templates line up to all corresponding lines on the front template.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

2. Cut scone lines from the side templates deep enough so that they remain visible once the front silhouette is cut away.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

3. Using a 1/4" bit and die grinder, transfer all of the detail lines on the front and back templates.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

4. Use a chain saw to etch the base line straight.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

5. Lap the block on its back, and cut the base on an angle.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

6. Remove the template with a sander.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

7. Stand the cornucopia upon its new base and cutaway the outside silhouette.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

8. Recess areas on each side 1/4" deep with a 1/4" or a 1/2" bit and die grinder.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

9. Beginning at the top of the horn, remove the area in front and in back of the waves.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

10. Apply the secondary template to the wave area.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

11. Using a 1/4" bit and die grinder, etch detail into waves.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

12. Sand away the secondary template.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

13. Taper off the top edges of the cornucopia.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

14. Round off the front edges by sanding with the side of the chainsaw blade.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

15. Remove the back corners of the cornucopia with the saw.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

16. Round and shape the area behind the rim with the tip of the saw.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

17. Taper the outer edges.

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18. Hollow out a hole in front with a 1/4" or 1/2" bit and die grinder.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

19. By applying light pressure with the rasp or rubberizer bit while following the contour, round the top portion of the cornucopia.

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20. Round the edges and shape the waves with the rubberizer or rasp.

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21. Use the rubberizer or rasp bit to blend the front and side silhouette view of the bottom lip.

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22. Round the edges of the indented profile areas.

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23. Use the power or hand brush to clean out any snow in the front pocket as well as on the entire piece.

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24. Finish smoothing the entire sculpture with a hot water bag.

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Title Annotation:Appendices
Publication:Ice Sculpting the Modern Way
Article Type:Appendix
Geographic Code:1USA
Date:Jan 1, 2004
Words:2272
Previous Article:Appendix A Beginning sculptures.
Next Article:Appendix C Advanced sculptures.
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