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A multifunctional ingredient for delicate eye contour.

Lipotec's Eyedeline marine ingredient provides several benefits for the delicate skin around the eyes. It reduces vascular permeability, which is responsible for the formation of eyebags and dark circles.

The eyes have the unique and powerful ability to reflect the very inner thoughts and feelings of humans. In addition, they are capable of revealing one's physical appearance, involving aspects ranging from attractiveness to more undesirable signs such as aging and fatigue. Besides being in continuous activity because of facial expressions, the skin around the eyes is constantly exposed to the environment, which facilitates the interaction with skin damaging agents. These aggressors, such as pollution and sun radiation, are closely related to premature aging and negatively influence the appearance of the exposed skin. The skin of the eye contour is also very thin, containing less extracellular matrix and becoming even thinner with age. Consequently, wrinkles, eyebags and dark circles appear around the eyes as signs of aging earlier than desired.

An impaired microcirculation and a buildup of colored by-products are the two main factors that trigger puffiness and shadowing on the eye contour. With age, blood vessels become more permeable, capillaries start to break down due to an increased fragility and, consequently, blood accumulates in the peri-orbital tissues. Because the thin skin around the eyes is unable to support the weight of accumulated fluids, it sags and eyebags appear. This accumulated blood is rich in hemoglobin, whose degradation involves the release of a free heme molecule characterized by its red color. It is further degraded to a more orange-yellow by-product called bilirubin. Given the fact that the skin of the eye contour is thinner and more translucent, the accumulated bilirubin causes the dark pigmentation of the eye contour, frequently known as dark circles.

With age, skin support proteins such as collagen and elastin experience a slower synthesis rate and a faster degradation by proteases. The breakdown of these proteins contribute to a loss in skin elasticity, a worsening of eyebags and dark circles and a decrease in skin luminosity, as collagen fibers can scatter light back toward the surface. Furthermore, enhanced oxidative damage and protein glycation lead to the formation of protein aggregates and a loss of functionality of these components. The formation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs) alters the structure of proteins leading to their dysfunction. This damaged extracellular matrix contributes to a premature aging of the skin around the eyes, whose visible signs are commonly known as crow's feet and under eye wrinkles.

A new multifunctional active, Eyedeline marine ingredient, isolated from coastal ecosystems in Tenerife in the Canary Islands archipelago (Spain), has been developed by Lipotec as a global eye contour care ingredient. This marine active (INCI name: Plankton extract) plays an important role in the improvement of the eye contour appearance. It has been proven to decrease vascular permeability, enhance bilirubin degradation, promote type I collagen and elastin, prevent glycation of collagen and consequently reduces eyebags, wrinkles and dark circles.

Vascular Permeability

Human umbilical vein endothelial cells were grown on top of a porous membrane to form a semi-permeable vascular barrier. These cells were incubated for 24 hours with medium alone (control) and with 1[micro]g/mL active ingredient. Following the incubation, a fluorescent molecule was used to evaluate the vascular permeability for each treatment, obtaining a decrease of 20.8% in vascular permeability regarding the treatment containing the marine ingredient.

In relation to the test performed to evaluate the ability of the active in reducing bilirubin accumulation, 0.01% conjugated bilirubin was mixed with 10mg/mL plankton extract for 24 hours. The results were assessed by high-performance liquid chromatography in comparison to a control test performed under the same conditions. The study demonstrated that plankton extract induced a significant decrease in the concentration of bilirubin by 19.4%, which is expected to help reduce dark circles.

ECM Improvement

Human adult dermal fibroblasts were treated with 1 or 5g/mL active ingredient for 48 hours. Then, the medium was collected and the concentration of type I collagen was determined by an enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay. Results showed an increase in collagen I levels by 61.8% regarding the 5[micro]g/mL active ingredient with respect to the non-treated cells.

In order to evaluate the levels of elastin produced by skin fibroblasts, neonatal human dermal fibroblasts were incubated for 48 hours with 0.1 or 1.0 [micro]g/mL active ingredient. Elastin levels produced by the fibroblasts were quantified using a dye-binding method and were compared with the non-treated cells used as control. Plankton extract improved elastin levels by 51.6% at the highest concentration of the active.

The effect that the active ingredient has on the formation of AGEs and therefore, the study of its potential anti-aging effects was also evaluated; 0.2M glucose and 0.6% collagen were incubated for three days at 60[degrees]C. This was done without (control) or with the active ingredient at different concentrations. Finally, the formation of AGEs was evaluated using an enzyme immunoassay. The study proved the capacity of the active at lOOpg/mL to reduce glycation of collagen by 29.7%.

Dark Circles Reduction

Twenty-one female subjects between 22-65 years old and presenting dark circles applied twice a day a placebo cream and a cream containing 1% of a solution with plankton extract for 28 days. High resolution photographs were used to evaluate the vascular component of dark circles.

The treatment with 1% of a solution with plankton extract was 35.7% more effective than the placebo, obtaining a reduction of 11.5% in the vascular component of dark circles.

Decrease in Eyebags

Twenty female subjects between 41-66 years old and showing eyebags applied a placebo cream and a cream containing 4% of a solution with plankton extract twice a day in the eye contour area. The volume of eyebags was evaluated by fringe projection.

A decrease in the volume of eyebags was already visible after 14 days and an even better effect was observed after 28 days with a reduction of 8.2%.

Smoothing Crow's Feet

Eighteen female subjects between 40-54 years old applied a placebo cream on one eye and a cream with 2% of a solution with plankton extract on the other eye, twice a day and for 14 days. Topometry of crow's feet wrinkles was measured by fringe projection in order to obtain values for the average roughness (Ra), mean wrinkle depth (Rz) and maximum wrinkle depth (Rt).

Eighteen female subjects between 40-54 years old applied a placebo cream on one eye and a cream with 2% of a solution with plankton extract on the other eye, twice a day and for 14 days. Topometry of crow's feet wrinkles was measured by fringe projection in order to obtain values for the average roughness (Ra), mean wrinkle depth (Rz) and maximum wrinkle depth (Rt).

After 14 days, the treatment containing the active showed an anti-wrinkle effect in the eye contour area by decreasing all the roughness parameters evaluated.

Conclusion

Eyedeline marine ingredient can be considered a multifunctional ingredient for eye contour care. It provides different benefits for the delicate skin around the eyes, which contribute to the improvement of the overall appearance of the eye contour.

Among the studied benefits that the active offers, it has been proven that it reduces vascular permeability, which is responsible for the formation of eyebags and dark circles. Besides, it induces bilirubin degradation, avoiding the accumulation of this pigment and reducing eye shadowing. It also improves the extracellular matrix by increasing collagen and elastin synthesis and decreasing its break down, and reduces the formation of AGEs that result from the glycation of collagen. Finally, in vivo data showed a considerable visible reduction of eye dark circles and eyebags, while providing a smoothing effect in crow's feet wrinkles.

This complete care ingredient for the eye contour attenuates the undesirable signs reflected through the eyes and results in a younger and more attractive look.

Julia Comas, Cristina Davi, Elena Canadas, Albert Soley, Raquel Delgado * Lipotec SAU, Gava, Spain
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Author:Comas, Julia; Davi, Cristina; Canadas, Elena; Soley, Albert; Delgado, Raquel
Publication:Household & Personal Products Industry
Date:May 1, 2015
Words:1340
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