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A good salad takes a madman and a pyromaniac.

A good salad takes a madman and a pyromaniac An old Roman proverb states that it takes four people to make a good salad dressing--a spendthrift for the oil, a miser for the vinegar, a judge for the salt, and a madman tomix them all up. This salad's dressing also requires the services of a pyromaniac, to ignite it. The refined salad has a peasant ancestry; people of Pennsylvania Dutch (or other north European) extraction used to make a similar one called "wilted lettuce." Oil might be scarce, but bacon dripping was always around, the byproduct of traditionally heavy breakfasts. In spite of its seemingly incongruous blend of materials, it was a good dressing--but not as good as this one.

Spinach with Hot Bacon Dressing Flambe

About 1 1/2 pounds spinach 1/2 pound sliced bacon, cut into 1/2-inch

pieces

2 tablespoons sugar 1/4 cup cider vinegar

1 tablespoon dry mustard 1/4 cup brandy

2 large hard-cooked eggs, chopped

Salt and pepper Discard tough stems and yellowed leaves from spinach; rinse leaves well and pat dry. If made ahead, wrap in paper towels, seal in a plastic bag, and chill up until next day. Break spinach leaves into bite-size pieces and place in a large salad bowl; cover and return to the refrigerator while making the dressing. In a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium heat, stir bacon often until crisp, 5 to 8 minutes. To bacon, add sugar, vinegar, and mustard; stir until mixture boils. Heat brandy until hot in a 2- to 4-cup pan; ignite and pour into vinegar mixture (not beneath a fan or flammable objects). Shake pan until the flames die. Pour hot dressing over spinach and mix well. Sprinkle egg onto salad; add salt and pepper to taste. Serves 8 to 10. Per serving: 166 cal.; 5 g protein; 5 g carbo.; 14 g fat; 70 mg chol.; 208 mg sodium. It's not easy to be both delicate and assertive, but Raoul Berke's Shrimp Cilantro manages to do so with style. Delicacy is inherent in the shrimp, with celery, cilantro, green onions, and olives adding their own subtle flavors. Assertiveness comes from red chili mayonnaise. Use more or less of the concoction--let your love of (or tolerance for) hot chilies be your guide. Extra chili mayonnaise goes well with hamburgers.

Shrimp Cilantro

1 pound tiny cooked shelled shrimp 1 1/2 cups diced celery

1/2 cup thinly sliced green onions,

including tops

1/4 cup lightly packed fresh cilantro

(coriander), chopped

1/4 cup chopped Spanish-style

pimiento-stuffed green olives

1/2 cup mayonnaise

Red chili mayonnaise (recipe

follows)

1 large firm-ripe avocado

Butter lettuce leaves or 8 slices

toasted thinly sliced white or

whole-wheat bread In a large bowl, combine shrimp, celery, green onions, cilantro, and olives. Blend the mayonnaise and 1/2 cup of the red chili mayonnaise; stir into shrimp mixture and mix gently until combined. Serve, or cover and chill as long as 6 hours. To serve as a salad, peel, pit, and thinly slice the avocado. Arrange lettuce leaves on 4 plates, top with shrimp mixture, and garnish with avocado. To serve as an open-faced sandwich, peel, pit, and mash the avocado; spread equally on toast. Spoon shrimp mixture on top. Accompany portions with red chili mayonnaise to add as desired. Serves 4. Per salad serving: 632 cal.; 27 g protein; 9 g carbo.; 56 g fat; 306 mg chol.; 664 mg sodium. Red chili mayonnaise. Discard stems and shake seeds from 6 small dried hot red chilies. Coarsely crumble chilies into a blender; whirl until pulverized. Add 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar and 1 clove garlic; whirl until minced. Add 2 large egg yolks; whirl until mixed. With motor running on high speed, add 3/4 cup salad oil in a very slow, steady stream; mixture will thicken. Season to taste with salt. Use, or cover and chill up to 2 weeks. Makes about 1 cup. Mysteriously named both Picnic Stew and Soup to Warm Your Bones, Richard Heyman's creation is thick enough to justify the former name, sturdy enough to fulfill the promise of the latter. One thing is certain: take this stew on your picnic and you won't miss any of the other things you may have forgotten.

Picnic Stew

2 tablespoons salad oil 1 1/2 pounds boned, lean beef chuck,

cut into 1-inch cubes

2 large onions, chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced or pressed

2 cans (about 14 oz. each) tomatoes

1 can (14 1/2 oz.) regular-strength beef

broth

1 cup water

3/4 teaspoon each dry thyme leaves

and dry marjoram leaves

2 cups 1-inch-long pieces celery

2 cups 1/2-inch-thick pieces carrot

1/2 cup diced red or green bell pepper

1/4 cup chopped parsley

1/4 cup purchased green chili salsa

1/2 cup elbow macaroni

2 medium-size ears of corn, husked,

silks removed, and each broken

into 1 1/2-inch pieces; or 1 can (15

oz.) baby corn on the cob,

drained

Salt and pepper Pour oil into a 5- to 6-quart pan over medium-high heat. Add meat, a portion at a time, and cook until well browned on all sides. Add onions and garlic and stir often until onions are limp, about 10 minutes. Add tomatoes (break with a spoon) and their liquid, broth, water, thyme, and marjoram. Bring to a boil; cover, and simmer until meat is very tender when pierced, about 2 hours. Stir in celery, carrot, bell pepper, and parsley. Cover and continue to simmer for 15 minutes. Stir in salsa, macaroni, and corn. Cover and cook until carrots are tender when pierced and macaroni is just tender to bite, about 10 minutes longer. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Makes 5 or 6 servings. Per serving: 344 cal.; 30 g protein; 31 g carbo.; 12 g fat; 68 mg chol.; 661 mg sodium. Most people think of gazpacho as a light first course to a summer meal. Serious eaters may prefer a more substantial version, such as Roger Colatorti's. His hearty gazpacho is based on chicken broth rather than tomato juice, and it's further fortified by the addition of a coarse puree of bell pepper, cucumber, garlic, onion, and canned tomato. Many additional herbs and seasonings enrich the flavor, and diners are encouraged to add toppings from a smorgasbord of chopped or sliced condiments. Serve with crusty bread for a notable lunch.

Gazpacho Colatorti

1 can (about 14 oz.) tomatoes 1 3/4 cups or 1 can (14 1/2 oz.) regular-strength

chicken broth

3 cloves garlic, halved

1 small onion, quartered

1 medium-size cucumber, peeled and

cut into chunks

3 tablespoons each rice vinegar and

olive oil

1 teaspoon each dry tarragon leaves

and dry basil leaves

1/4 teaspoon each ground cumin, chili

powder, and liquid hot pepper

seasoning

1/4 cup coarsely chopped parsley

1 small red or green bell pepper,

seeded and cut into chunks

3 green onions (ends trimmed),

including tops, coarsely chopped

1 large can (15 oz.) tomato sauce

About 3 tablespoons lime or lemon

juice

Condiments (suggestions follow) In a blender, combine tomatoes and their liquid, and about half the broth. Add garlic, onion, cucumber, vinegar, oil, tarragon, basil, cumin, chili powder, liquid pepper, parsley, bell pepper, and green onions. Whirl until coarsely pureed. Pour into a large bowl and stir in the tomato sauce, remaining broth, and lime juice to taste. Cover and chill at least 2 hours or as long as overnight. Ladle into individual bowls and offer condiments to add to taste. Makes 6 servings, each about 1 1/3 cups. Per serving, including green onions, cucumbers, and tomatoes: 134 cal.; 3.5 g protein; 15 g carbo.; 8 g fat; 0 mg chol.; 569 mg sodium. Condiments. Select 3 or 4 of the following and present each in a small bowl: about 3/4 cup thinly sliced green onions, including tops; about 3/4 cup peeled, seeded, and diced cucumber; about 3/4 cup stemmed, seeded, and diced red or green bell pepper; about 3/4 cup peeled and diced firm-ripe tomatoes; 3 diced hard-cooked large eggs; about 3/4 cup unflavored yogurt.
COPYRIGHT 1988 Sunset Publishing Corp.
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 1988 Gale, Cengage Learning. All rights reserved.

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Title Annotation:recipes
Publication:Sunset
Date:Jun 1, 1988
Words:1366
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