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A dozen smorgasbord dishes to choose from.

A dozen smorg sbord dishes to choose from

Given several days to cook, Maud Hallin can whip right through the 12 dishes basic to the lavish make-ahead Swedish smorg sbord described on page 80. It's big enough to serve 36, and she adds cookies for dessert (for a dozen choices, see page 162). When she doesn't have that much time, she shops for alternatives to speed the preparations considerably. Follow either course, depending on your schedule.

All or part of the following dishes can be made ahead. You can serve all or part of any dish at one time; or select a few dishes to present on separate occasions.

This gives you flexibility for party planning. Stage one big party for 3 dozen, or have several smaller gatherings. If you bring out some of the dishes to serve more than once, always keep them cold so they will stay fresh and safe to eat.

Using each recipe's yield as a guide, you can easily fill in with substitutes purchased from a delicatessen, particularly a Scandinavian one.

Herring choices in the market can be confusing. Atlantic salted herring is sold whole or in fillets; both forms are sold in bulk at delicatessens or Scandinavian markets and need to be desalted before using. Or use seasoned herring in jars found in the refrigerated section; drain fish and reseason it as directed in recipes. Matjes herring are young, tender herring available canned with various seasonings. Swedish anchovies, available in cans, are a form of herring, not to be confused with the skinny, saltier anchovies from Spain and Italy.

Spiced Herring

1 small onion, thinly sliced crosswise and separated into rings

1 teaspoon each whole cloves, whole allspice, and white or black peppercorns

6 bay leaves

1 teaspoon dry aromatic hops, optional

4 thin slices fresh ginger (each about the size of a quarter)

10 ounces (1 1/2 cups) prepared salt herring fillets (recipe follows), cut diagonally into 1/2-inch-wide strips; or 1 jar (6 oz.) purchased prepared herring pieces, drained

About 1 cup pickling liquid (recipe follows)

In a 4-cup clear glass container with straight sides, layer 1/2 of the ingredients in this order: onion, cloves, allspice, pepercorns, bay leaves, hops, ginger, and herring. Repeat with remaining ingredients, but put all the remaining spices on top. Pour enough pickling liquid over spiced herring to cover. Set a bowl or plate on top with a weight in it to keep the herring submerged in the pickling liquid. Cover airtight and chill at least 2 days. Serve, or chill up to 2 weeks. Makes about 3 cups, 36 servings.

Prepared salt herring fillets. In a bowl, cover Atlantic salted herring fillets with cold water and stir; drain. Rinse repeatedly until water is nearly clear. Add water to herring (use about 2 quarts water for every 3 lb. fillets), cover, and chill at least 10 hours or until the next day; drain.

Pickling liquid. In a 4- to 5-quart pan, mix 4 cups distilled white vinegar, 3 1/2 cups water, and 3 cups sugar. Bring to a boil on high heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Let cool to use; store, covered, indefinitely in the refrigerator. Makes 8 cups.

Glassblower's Herring

1 small red onion, thinly sliced crosswise and separated into rings

1 large carrot, peeled and cut diagonally into thin slices

12 thin slices peeled fresh horseradish

9 bay leaves

1 tablespoon mustard seed

1 tablespoon whole allspice

10 ounces (1 1/2 cups) prepared salt herring fillets (preceding), cut diagonally into 1/2-inch-wide strips; or 1 jar (6 oz.) purchased prepared herring pieces, drained

About 2 1/2 cups pickling liquid (preceding)

In a 4-cup clear glass container with straight sides, layer ingredients in this order: 1/2 the onion, 1/3 the carrot, 1/2 the horseradish, 1/3 of the bay leaves, 1/2 the mustard seed, 1/2 the allspice, and 1/2 the herring. Repeat. Top with remaining carrot and bay leaves.

Pour enough pickling liquid over herring to cover, about 2 1/2 cups. Set a bowl or plate on top with a weight in it to keep herring submerged in the pickling liquid. Cover and chill at least 2 days. Serve, or store, chilled, up to 2 weeks. Makes about 2 1/2 cups, 36 servings.

Matjes Herring with Gravlax Sauce

To serve 36, make this recipe twice. Just spoon the herring onto the plate to serve.

2 cans (8 oz. each) wine-flavored matjes herring pieces or fillets, drained; cut fillets in 1/2-inch-wide pieces

Gravlax sauce (recipe follows)

Mild Swedish or Dijon mustard

Arrange herring pieces in 1 layer on a platter. Spoon gravlax sauce down the center of the herring. Dot with mustard. Makes about 2 1/2 cups, 18 servings.

Gravlax sauce. Mix together 1 cup minced fresh dill sprigs, 1/2 cup Swedish or Dijon mustard, 1/4 cup salad oil, 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, and 2 tablespoons sugar. Use, or cover and chill up to 1 week.

Matjes Herring with Horseradish and Beets

As suggested in the previous recipe, make this recipe twice to serve 3 dozen.

2 cans (5 or 6 oz. each) matjes herring fillets, drained and cut into 1/2-inch-wide slices

Horseradish sauce (recipe follows)

1 can or jar (about 1 lb.) sliced pickled beets, drained and cut into 1/4-inch cubes

1/3 cup minced chives

Arrange herring pieces in 1 layer on platter. Spoon sauce down center of herring. Top decoratively with beets and chives. Makes about 4 cups, 18 servings.

Horseradish sauce. In a bowl, mix 1/2 cup peeled, cored, and minced tart green apple; 1 cup sour cream; 2 tablespoons grated fresh horseradish (or 3 tablespoons prepared horseradish), and 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper. Use, or cover and chill until next day.

Danish Herring Salad

If you are not presenting the full-scale buffet, or serving the salad within 4 days, cut this recipe in half.

2 jars or cans (1 lb. each) sliced pickled beets

1/2 pound prepared salt herring fillets (see preceding), or 1 jar (6 oz.) purchased prepared herring

Pickled beet salad dressing (recipe follows)

4 medium-size tart green apples, cored and cut into 1/4-inch cubes

2 medium-size cooked thin-skinned potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch cubes

1/2 cup minced dill pickle

Salt and pepper

2 hard-cooked eggs

Drain pickling juice from beets; reserve juice for dressing and cut beets into 1/4-inch cubes. Cut herring into 1/4-inch cubes.

In a large bowl, mix pickled beet salad dressing with diced beets, herring, apples, potatoes, and pickle; add salt and pepper to taste. Cover and chill at least 6 hours, or up to 4 days.

To serve, spoon herring salad into a bowl. Press egg white and yolk separately through fine strainer. Make a design on the salad with the egg. Serve, or cover and chill up to 24 hours. Makes about 3 quarts, 36 servings.

Pickled beet salad dressing. Melt 3 tablespoons butter or margarine in a 2- to 3-quart pan over medium heat. Add 1/4 cup all-purpose flour and cook, stirring, until lightly browned. Whisking, slowly add 2 cups half-and-half (light cream). Cook, stirring, until mixture boils and thickens, about 5 minutes. Stir in the reserved 1 cup pickled beet juice (see preceding), 2/3 cup cider vinegar, 1/4 to 1/3 cup mild Swedish or Dijon mustard, and 1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper. Let cool before using.

Smoked Mackerel Pate

To serve 36, double the recipe, or make 1 each of mackerel and trout.

3/4 pound smoked mackerel or trout

1 large package (8 oz.) cream cheese

White pepper

Croutons (recipe follows)

Lift bones from fish and discard. Pull off skin and discard. In a bowl, mix together mackerel and cream cheese with a fork. Add pepper to taste. Put in a small bowl and serve at room temperature, or cover and chill up to 5 days. Spread on croutons. Makes about 2 cups, 18 servings.

Croutons. Slice 1 slender baguette (1/2 lb.) crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Place in 2 baking pans, each 10 by 15 inches. Bake, uncovered, in a 200| oven until dry but still white, about 20 minutes. Let cool to serve; if made ahead, wrap airtight and store up to 5 days.

Hot Tomato Sprats

2 medium-size onions (about 1 lb. total), chopped

2 tablespoons salad oil

1 cup each catsup and whipping cream

2 cans (3 oz. each) Swedish anchovy fillets, drained; or 1 can (2 oz.) anchovy fillets, drained

1 tablespoon each fine dry bread crumbs and melted butter or margarine

In a 10- to 12-inch pan, cook and stir onions in oil over medium-high heat until limp and golden, about 10 minutes. Add catsup, cream, and anchovies. Stirring, bring mixture to a boil.

Reduce heat to a simmer and continue cooking until thickened and reduced to 3 cups, about 15 minutes. Pour mixture into 1 shallow 1-quart casserole, or 2 shallow 2-cup casseroles. (If made ahead, let cool, cover airtight, and freeze; use a foil pan, if you like. Thaw to continue.) Sprinkle crumbs and butter over the tomato sprats. Bake on an upper rack in a 400| oven until mixture is hot and crumbs are lightly browned, about 20 minutes. Makes 36 servings; 1 small casserole serves 18.

Jansson's Temptation

2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced

1 can (3 oz.) Swedish anchovy fillets, drained; or 1 can (2 oz.) anchovy fillets, drained

2 large onions, chopped

1 2/3 cups whipping cream

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

2 tablespoons fine dry bread crumbs Salt

In each of 2 shallow, 9- or 10-inch-diameter casseroles, layer the following ingredients in this order: 1/4 of the potatoes, 1/2 the anchovies, 1/2 the onions, 1/4 of the potatoes. Pour whipping cream equally over ingredients in both casseroles; cover. Bake in a 350| oven until potatoes are tender to bite, about 1 hour. Cool, cover, and chill up to 2 days; or freeze (thaw to continue). Dot potatoes with butter and crumbs. On the top rack of a 400| oven, bake uncovered until hot and golden on top, about 30 minutes. Salt to taste. Makes 36 servings; 1 small casserole serves 18.

Swedish Liver Pate

1 pound beef liver

1/2 pound bacon, coarsely chopped

1 large onion, peeled and quartered

1 can (3 oz.) Swedish anchovy fillets, drained and cut in chunks

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon sugar

1 large egg

2/3 cup milk

3/4 teaspoon pepper

1/2 teaspoon each minced fresh marjoram and fresh thyme; or 1/4 teaspoon each dry marjoram and thyme leaves

Chopped parsley

Trim and discard tough membrane from liver; rinse liver, pat dry, and cut in chunks. Grind liver, bacon, onion, and anchovies through the medium blade of a food chopper; or whirl, a portion at a time, in a food processor just until finely ground.

In a large bowl mix flour and sugar, then add egg and milk and beat until blended. Stir in pepper, marjoram, thyme, and liver mixture; mix well.

Pour mixture into 4 loaf pans, 2 1/2- by 5-inch-size; cover with foil. Place in a larger pan, set in a 400| oven, and fill larger pan with about 1 inch of boiling water. Bake until liver mixture feels firm when pressed lightly in center, about 45 minutes. Remove from over. Lift loaves out of water bath. Cool, cover, and chill thoroughly, at least 4 hours or up to 3 days; or freeze (thaw to continue). To unmold, dip pans to rim in hot water until sides begin to liquefy. Invert onto a serving plate. Garnish with parsley. Makes 36 servings; each loaf serves 9.

Spiced Rolled Veal

Use saltpeter if you want roll to be pink.

2 tablespoons whole allspice

2 teaspoons dry juniper berries

2 teaspoons black peppercorns

1 veal breast, 4 to 5 pounds, boned, with fat trimmed

2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon saltpeter, optional

3/4 pound salt pork, thinly sliced

4 to 6 cups regular-strength chicken broth

With a mortar and pestle or in a food processor, grind together allspice, juniper berries, and peppercorns. Lay veal flat, with smooth side down. Sprinkle evenly with ground spices, sugar, and saltpeter; top with a single layer of salt pork, placing pieces side by side. Starting from a narrow end, roll veal up like a jelly roll. Place roll on a single layer of cheesecloth cut big enough to enclose roll; wrap cloth around meat, then tie roll snugly at about 1-inch intervals with string. Gather cloth at each end of roll and tie to enclose meat.

In a 4- to 5-quart pan, bring broth to a boil on high heat. Add veal to broth; cover and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer gently until veal registers 155| on a thermometer inserted into center (prop roll above broth to test), about 1 hour.

Lift roll from broth, set in a pan, and cover airtight; reserve broth for other uses. In another pan, set several heavy weights (such as canned foods); set pan on the veal to weight it evenly. Chill at least 6 hours or up to 2 days. Remove weights and cheesecloth. (If made ahead, wrap and freeze. Thaw in refrigerator.) Thinly slice veal. Makes 36 servings.

Danish Pickled Cucumbers

6 large (about 4 lb. total) cucumbers

3 cups cider vinegar

2 cups water

2/3 cup sugar

1/4 cup mustard seed

2 teaspoons each whole cloves, whole allspice, white peppercorns, and dill seed

6 large shallots, chopped

2 teaspoons salt

Trim ends off cucumbers; peel cucumbers and cut in half lengthwise. Scoop out and discard seeds. Cut cucumbers crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Divide slices equally between 2 jars, each 1-quart size. In a 2- to 3-quart pan, combine vinegar, water, sugar, mustard seed, cloves, all-spice, peppercorns, dill seed, shallots, and salt. Bring mixture to a boil on high heat, stirring to dissolve sugar; cool to room temperature. Pour over cucumbers. Cover and chill to blend flavors, at least 24 hours or up to 7 days. Makes about 2 quarts, 36 servings.

Swedish Cabbage and Apples

2 heads red cabbage (about 3 lb. each), cored

2 large onions, chopped

6 tart green apples, peeled, cored, and chopped

1/2 cup (1/4 lb.) butter or margarine

2 cups dry red wine

2/3 cup firmly packed brown sugar

1/2 cup cider vinegar

1/3 cup red currant jelly

1 teaspoon ground allspice

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves Salt

Shred cabbage 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick.

In an 8- to 10-quart pan on medium heat, cook onion and apples in butter until onion is very limp, about 30 minutes; stir occasionally. Increase heat to medium-high, add cabbage, and stir until cabbage wilts but is still tender-crisp to bite, 10 to 12 minutes. Stir in wine, sugar, vinegar, jelly, allspice, and cloves; bring to a boil. Remove from heat.

Serve hot or warm. (If made ahead, cool, cover, and chill up to 7 days. Reheat.) Makes about 4 quarts, or 36 servings.

Photo: Diced beets make bright band across matjes herring with horseradish sauce

Photo: Cut matjes herring fillets into bite-size pieces on platter and just leave in place
COPYRIGHT 1987 Sunset Publishing Corp.
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 1987 Gale, Cengage Learning. All rights reserved.

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Title Annotation:includes recipes
Date:Dec 1, 1987
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