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A Hawaiian cowboy added ginger to the jerky marinade.

Jerky, once just a hiker's food, has become a favorite at-home snack. It was probably created long ago when some hunter discovered that smoke from his campfire not only kept away flies but also flavored and preserved meat. Later refinements included cutting the meat into strips for quick drying and adding seasonings to enhance the flavor.

Dean Terrell gave his co-workers a sample of his jerky. One of them, who had grown up in Hawaii, was reminded of the paniolo's food (a paniolo is a Hawaiian cowboy; the name is derived from the word espanol because early cowboys in the Islands were Mexican). He suggested that the jerky could be improved by adding some ginger to the marinade. What was the result? You can find out for yourself. Aloha.

Paniolo Beef Jerky
 1 flank steak, 1 1/2 to 2 pounds
 2 tablespoons reduced-sodium soy
 2 tablespoons Worcestershire
 1/4 cup lime juice
 1/4 teaspoon coarsely ground black
 1/8 teaspoon liquid smoke
 1 teaspoon crushed dried hot red
 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

Trim and discard fat from flank steak. With a sharp knife, cut steak across the grain into 1/4-inch-thick slanting slices.

In a large bowl, stir together soy sauce, Worcestershire, lime juice, pepper, liquid smoke, crushed chilies, and ginger. Add meat and mix well. Cover and chill until next day, stirring occasionally.

Lay meat slices side by side on foil-covered 12- by 15-inch baking sheets. Place in a 115[deg] to 120[deg] oven until meat feels dry and firm and looks dry in center when a piece is broken, 10 to 11 hours. Makes about 3/4 pound.

Per ounce: 95 cal.; 12 g protein; 4.5 g fat; 1.3 g carbo.; 170 mg sodium; 28 mg chol.

D. Dean Terrell

Burbank, Calif.

In wine writers' language, one might describe Carl Lange's Chili Verde as being assertive and full-bodied, with green pepper overtones and a long (but not interminable) finish, suitable for immediate consumption but improved if chilled for a day or two and reheated. Some may say that wine writers' language is not appropriate for describing a stew. But is it appropriate applied to wine? The jury is still out.

If you prefer to serve your chili verde with a warm tortilla, try Lange's trick of rolling up the tortilla in a paper towel and heating it in a microwave oven for 10 to 20 seconds before serving.

Chili Verde
 1 1/2 pounds lean boned pork shoulder
 2 cans (1 lb. each) tomatoes
 1 large onion, chopped
 1 cup finely sliced celery
 1 teaspoon dry oregano leaves
 1/2 teaspoon rubbed dry sage
 2 large cans (7 oz. each) diced green
 2 dry bay leaves
 Hot cooked rice
 Fresh cilantro (coriander) sprigs

Trim and discard excess fat from pork. Cut meat into 3/4-inch cubes and put them in a 10- to 12-inch frying pan. Drain about 1/2 cup juice from tomatoes into pan. Cover and cook on high heat until boiling; reduce heat and simmer 30 minutes.

Uncover pan; add onion, celery, oregano, and sage. Stir often until liquid evaporates and drippings in pan are richly browned.

Add tomatoes and their remaining juice. Stir to free browned bits, then add chilies and bay leaves. Cover and simmer until meat is very tender when pierced, about 1 hour; stir occasionally. If mixture is too thin, uncover and let simmer until chili is reduced to the consistency you like; stir frequently.

Spoon chili mixture over rice; garnish with cilantro. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Per serving: 234 cal.; 24 g protein; 9.4 g fat; 13 g carbo.; 732 mg sodium; 76 mg chol

Scottsdale, Ariz.

When you announce to family or friends that Indian pudding is the main course for dinner, warn them not to get their hopes up for an early dessert. Terrance McCarthy's Island Indian Pudding is not, repeat not, conventional Indian pudding made with molasses and served with ice cream. It is, rather, a version of tamale pie, a hearty Cal-Mex casserole that contains your basic tamale ingredients.

European influence is present, but the basics are all New World, so the name is justifiable. As for the island part well, Alameda is an island.

Island Indian Pudding
 3 large eggs
 1 1/2 cups buttermilk
 1 can (17 oz.) cream-style corn
 1 cup peeled, seeded, and chopped
firm-ripe tomatoes
 1 medium-size onion, finely chopped
 1 medium-size green bell pepper,
stemmed, seeded, and chopped
 1 can (4 oz.) sliced or chopped
 1 can (6 oz.) pitted medium-size
black ripe olives, drained
 About 1/2 teaspoon salt
 1 teaspoon chili powder
 1/4 teaspoon each pepper and liquid
hot pepper seasoning
 1 cup yellow cornmeal
 1/4 cup (1/8 lb.) butter or margarine,

In a large bowl, beat eggs to blend with buttermilk, corn, tomatoes, onion, bell pepper, pimientos, olives, teaspoon sat, chili powder, pepper, hot pepper seasoning, cornmeal, and butter. Pour into a buttered 9- by 13-inch baking dish or pan.

Bake in a 350[deg] oven until firm when lightly touched in center, about 1 hour. Let stand 10 minutes, then serve. Add salt to taste. Serves 8 to 10.

Per serving: 194 cal.; 5.7 g protein; 8.8 g fat; 25 g carbo.; 401 mg sodium; 78 mg chol.

Alameda, Calif.

Once upon a time, neither the first crocus nor the return of swallows to Capistrano was as sure a sign of spring (to the gourmet, at least) as the appearance of asparagus in the market.

When the feasting paled and asparagus lovers could think beyond the basic spear, other indulgences were explored ... such as sipping instead of chewing. Gerry Cutler has engineered a fitting liquid version: a soup that is the essence of asparagus. Other ingredients serve mainly to enhance the asparagus flavor.

Nowadays you can enjoy this fine soup almost anytime, because as asparagus season fades away here, it blossoms south of the equator and flies north (with some mechanical assistance) a bit before the swallows leave Capistrano.

Gerry's Asparagus Soup
 1 1/2 to 2 pounds asparagus
 1 tablespoon butter or margarine
 3 green onions (ends trimmed),
including tops, thinly sliced
 1/4 pound mushrooms, sliced
 1 3/4 cups (or 1 can, 14 1/2 oz.) regular-strength
chicken broth
 1/4 cup purchased salsa
 1 cup milk
 1/2 cup shredded jack cheese
 Salt and pepper

Break off and discard tough ends of asparagus. Rinse asparagus well and drain.

In a 4- to 5-quart pan over medium heat, melt butter with onions and mushrooms. Stir often until onions are limp, about 3 minutes. Add broth and asparagus. Bring to a boil, then reduce beat and simmer until asparagus is just tender when pierced, about 5 minutes. Snip off tips of 8 spears and set aside. Continue to simmer remaining asparagus until very tender when pierced, about 5 minutes.

In a blender, smoothly whirl asparagus spears with broth mixture and salsa, a portion at a time. Pour and rub mixture through a fine strainer back into pan; add milk and stir over medium heat until steaming hot. Ladle into soup bowls, sprinkle with cheese, then float asparagus tips in soup. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Makes 4 servings. Per serving: 161 cal.; 9.9 g protein; 10 g fat; 9.5 g carbo.; 252 mg sodium; 29 mg chol.

Gerry Cutler pour into a 1 - to 1 1/2-quart pan. Mix in 2 teaspoons cornstarch blended with 3 tablespoons light rum. Stir on high heat until boiling. Spoon over apples. Serves 4.

Per serving: 204 cal.; 0.9 g protein; 0.6 g fat; 47 g carbo.; 5 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Sautbed Apple Slices These apple wedges glazed in butter and sugar make a sparkling companion for pork, lamb, chicken, or sausage.

Quarter 2 medium-size to large unpeeled apples; remove cores and cut fruit into slices about 3/4 inch thick. In a 10- to 12-inch pan, melt 1 tablespoon butter or margarine over medium heat; when bubbly, add apples and turn to coat with butter. Cover and cook until apples are tender when pierced, 2 1/2 to 10 minutes. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon sugar and cook, uncovered, turning gently as needed, until liquid evaporates and apples brown lightly, 3 to 16 minutes. Makes about 4 servings. Perserving: 71 caL; 0.2 g protein; 3 g fat; 12 g carbo.; 29 mg sodium; 7.8 mg chol.

Classic Apple Pie

We baked pies with 22 different apple varieties, fine-tuning the ingredients for each one. Although typical recipes call for as much as a cup of sugar for a 9-inch pie, we found that a quarter of that amount was ample for sweet apples, and let more of the apple flavor come through. Use the greater amount of sugar if apples are underripe and extra firm, or if you prefer sweeter desserts.

For pastry, use refrigerated crust, pie crust mix, or your own recipe. The bran cereal in this recipe virtually disappears in the baking, but it helps keep the bottom crust crisp and flaky.
 8 cups thinly sliced, peeled, cored
 Sugar (see chart on page 242)
 Quick-cooking tapioca or
cornstarch (see chart)
 1/2 to 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger or
ground nutmeg
 Lemon juice (see chart)
 Pastry for a double-crust 9-inch pie
 1 cup bran flake or raisin-bran flake
cereal (optional)

In a large bowl, mix apples with sugar, tapioca, cinnamon, ginger, and lemon juice; set aside. Roll out half the pastry on a floured board to fit a 9-inch pie pan. Line pan with pastry. Sprinkle cereal over pastry, then pile in apple mixture, heaping it in the center. On a floured board, roll out remaining pastry to cover pie. Lay pastry over fruit; flute edges and cut vent boles in the top.

Bake on the lowest shelf of a 425[deg]oven until top is browned and filling is bubbly, 45 to 55 minutes. If browned after 30 minutes, cover loosely with foil. Serve warm or at room temperature. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Per serving: 204 cal; 1.5 g protein; 7.9 g fat; 34 g carbo.; 138 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.
COPYRIGHT 1990 Sunset Publishing Corp.
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 1990 Gale, Cengage Learning. All rights reserved.

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Title Annotation:Chefs of the West; recipes
Date:Oct 1, 1990
Previous Article:Smooth soups.
Next Article:Sunset's apple classics (recipes)

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