ZEE STEAKS OK, ZE WINE LACKING.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

It may be a sign of the times, but the restaurant and bar building in Encino where the Mr. Zee Steak House sign recently went up has just about run the gamut of cuisine possibilities.

It's been Thai, Scandinavian, Mexican, Southwestern, seafood twice and Peruvian.

Now, as a simple steak house, it finally may have found its forte.

If it hasn't, there are still a few options left, like another Asian - say Chinese or Vietnamese - or continental or Greek.

Or how about Middle Eastern or one of the Balkan foods, even a new-wave fusion menu or one of the contemporary cross-cultural endeavors?

Meanwhile, it still looks pretty much the same as during its previous incarnation, an ambitious Peruvian restaurant called La Rosa Nautica. In fact, there's still one smaller sign on the facade left to remind us of such.

The main difference between then and now, in a serviceable, not unattractive dining room and covered patio extension, seems to be the use of maroon-hued tablecloths.

But as before, although a full bar operates here, there's a dismal dearth of wine inventory. Previously, a wine list was printed, sent out, but never fulfilled. During recent review visits, apologies were made about the lack of wines - only a handful of inexpensive Gallo brands like Hearty Burgundy were available - with suggestions that this would be remedied soon.

And because the food, consisting primarily of beef and chicken dishes, is handled fairly well in Mr. Zee's kitchen, it seemed such a shame that there was not one bottle of premium red wine in the house.

But of juicy, thick slabs of beef, there are plenty.

A respectable, delivered-as-ordered, chunky slice of prime rib can be had in the -1/2-pound ($13.95), -3/4-pound ($15.95) or 1-pound size ($17.95), with rice or baked potato and a decent-size cup of soup or an adequate house salad.

This is not an overly fatty or gristly piece of meat. In fact, it's surprisingly good-tasting and rather satisfying.

The same applies to the New York steaks, also presented in -1/2- ($11.95), -3/4- ($15.95) and 1-pound ($18.95) weights.

The beef is USDA choice in grade and flavorful enough to hit the spot when any red meat urge arises.

Impeccably correct cooking time is important for steak fanciers, and Mr. Zee's kitchen has come through each time. However, there have never been many people in the dining room during review visits, and sometimes a full house upsets the kitchen's timing.

One day, a couple of alternatives to beef - two Cajun-seasoned dishes, the blackened salmon and chicken plates - were ordered.

Both evidenced a skillful hand in the kitchen. The chicken ($6.25 at lunch, $10.95 at dinner) had nicely cooked broccoli and carrots with it and a clump of well-executed fries.

Like the salmon ($7.95 at lunch, $14.95 at dinner), there was moistness and good taste apparent in each bite and no hint of dryness or mushiness in anything on either plate. Exteriors of both poultry and fish pieces had requisite dark crunch and spiciness.

As for beginnings, a fair sampling of calamari fritti ($5.25 at lunch, $5.95 at dinner) preceded these two entrees and arrived with a warm tomato dip and a boat of seafood cocktail sauce as a bonus dipping option.

On another occasion, soups - a vegetable and clam chowder - included in the price of dinner, were tried and proved to be satisfactory in taste, portioning and heat at arrival.

This restaurant isn't fancy, yet in its current form usually succeeds in pleasing, wine service the exception.

Perhaps not an A for Zee, but certainly above a C.

THE FACTS

The restaurant: Mr. Zee Steak House.

Where: 15627 Ventura Blvd., Encino.

When: Open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily except Sunday, for dinner from 6:30 to 10:30 p.m. nightly except Sunday, to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Recommended items: Boston clam chowder or vegetable soup, Cajun-style blackened salmon or chicken breast, New York steak, prime rib, sauteed mushrooms.

How much: Starters from $2.95 to $8, pastas and entrees from $8 to $20, desserts $3.95 each. Full bar. All major credit cards.

Wine list: Limited to three or four choices by the bottle or glass, all Gallo brands.

Reservations: Taken. Call [phone].

Our rating: Three stars for food; two and 1/2 stars for service; circle with diagonal slash for wine.

CAPTION(S):

Photo

Photo: Chef Salvador Fernands, left, and owner Morris Zanaz nian's haven for beef lovers, Mr. Zee Steak House in Encino, offers well-prepared, flavorful USDA choice cuts of meat in a variety of sizes.

Gus Ruelas/Daily News