YOGURT MANIA : FLAVORS AND STYLES ABOUND.

Byline: Steven Pratt Chicago Tribune

Once regarded as a weird-tasting pudding reserved for health-food nuts, ethnic kitchens and Balkan ascetics, yogurt now hogs more space than milk in the supermarket dairy case and comes in as many flavors as ice cream.

Although it is just milk fermented by friendly bacteria, yogurt has been praised as an elixir for everything from lactose intolerance to cancer. But in the United States, it mainly is viewed as a snack and, lately, a dessert rather than a health food. In line with contemporary tastes, the yogurt in this country has been mellowed, sweetened and flavored into a product that is barely recognizable to Europeans who relish it tart and plain.

But each year, sales grow by as much as 10 percent. And companies have stretched their quest for new variations to include such flavors as tangerine chiffon, lemon chiffon, banana cream pie, key lime pie, apple pie a la mode, cappuccino, chocolate caramel and strawberry cheesecake. And those are just some of the new ones.

That's a long way from the curdled goat milk that the biblical Abraham used to entertain three angels in his tent, says Manfred Kroger, professor of food science at Pennsylvania State University in University Park.

Abraham most likely was eating yogurt - or at least its ancestor, he says.

Before refrigeration, milk could be kept longer by turning it into a tart, slightly acidic, coagulated pudding. It first was boiled, then mixed with a bacterial starter culture from the previous batch, in the same way sourdough bread is made, says Kroger, co-author of ``The Encyclopedia of Fermented Fresh Milk Products'' with Joseph Kurmann and Jeremiah L. Rasic.

``Today, of course, we want to control Mother Nature and predict the outcome, so we know exactly what the bacterial cultures are, namely Lactobacillus bulgaricus and Streptobacillus thermophilus,'' he says. They are mixed in measured amounts with milk.

Yogurt has grown into a mainstream supermarket product. Annual sales stand at $1.6 billion in the United States, and Americans eat almost 4 1/2 pounds per person, says Leslie Sarasin, president of the National Yogurt Association, which represents many of the largest companies. That's up from less than 1/2 pound per person 30 years ago, when most people in the Midwest hadn't even tasted it.

Yet U.S. consumption is dwarfed by that in France, where people eat more than 40 pounds of yogurt. Says Sarasin: ``We've a long way to go.''

It appears that in the States we're going in a different direction.

Europeans usually consume plain whole-milk yogurt or yogurt enhanced with fruit, but most American consumers know yogurt only in its reduced-fat or nonfat, sweetened varieties, says Tim Morck, director of nutrition, regulatory and consumer affairs for Dannon Co.

Sweetness seems endemic to American tastes, Morck says, and most authorities say that the popularity of yogurt in the United States began to grow with the development of sweet fruit flavors.

That trend may be reaching its extreme with the advent of dessert-derived flavors such as coconut or banana cream pie, Boston cream pie, double chocolate, tangerine chiffon and amaretto cheesecake.

On the other hand, the new yogurts provide a healthful alternative to the desserts after which they are named, especially in those versions with no fat and no added sugar.

An 8-ounce serving of nonfat yogurt provides 452 milligrams of calcium (100 milligrams more than a cup of milk), 13 grams of protein, no fat and about 125 calories, depending on the flavor.

Does it have added health benefits?

At the turn of the century, Nobel prize-winning scientist Elie Metchnikoff believed yogurt held the secret to longevity. Balkan mountain tribesmen who consumed a quart a day often lived more than 100 years.

His theory has yet to be proved: Metchnikoff, who ate up to a gallon of yogurt each day, died at age 71.

But some research is encouraging. People who have difficulty digesting lactose in dairy products have less trouble with yogurt because the yogurt bacteria generate an enzyme that breaks down the lactose.

Yogurt's beneficial bacteria also may be helpful in curbing diarrhea and bacterial infections in the intestines, Kroger says.

Some companies lace their yogurt with a third bacterium - Lactobacillus acidophilus - as an aid to digestion.

Will yogurt cure cancer or help stem the progression of the disease?

Some studies show that acidophilus and other bacteria may have anti-cancer characteristics, but exactly what they do in the intestines isn't completely known. No pertinent human studies on that have been done, Kroger says.

``There is no scientific consensus that yogurt will help prevent or control cancer, heart disease or immune system problems,'' he says. ``At this point, that's mostly wishful thinking.''

The challenge of delivering the creaminess of a full-fat yogurt without using fat is mostly attacked with stabilizers such as modified food starches, gelatins or a combination, Morck says.

Some makers also use carrageen, other gums and soluble fibers. Some yogurt purists shun any stabilizers. In France, for example, stabilizing additives are not permitted, Morck says.

Calories can be further reduced by using sugar substitutes, in most cases aspartame. Many yogurts still contain sugar that comes naturally from added fruit.

While key lime pie and other yogurt flavors enjoy the limelight now, what about the future?

Considering America's jaded palate, Kroger says he fully expects to see flavors like sauerkraut, tomato and chicken soup. Even pizza.

Certainly the folks at Dannon have considered savory flavors, Morck says.

``They are possible, but it will depend on the mind-set of the consumer. It may entail a disconnection with associations of yogurt with sweets and desserts.''

On the other hand, that may not take long. People seem to like using plain yogurt for party dips, Morck says.

``It goes quite well with onion soup mix.''

Yogurt makes a fine ingredient, adding its tang to sweet as well as savory dishes. Experiment and have fun using different flavors - perhaps lemon, coffee or cappuccino yogurt in place of plain in a dessert recipe. However, for best results in cooking and recipes, use the type of yogurt specified - for example, do not substitute yogurts sweetened with sugar substitutes for those sweetened with sugar, especially in baking.

MOCHA MARBLE CAKE

2 cups cake flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda 

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder, preferably Dutch process

1 1/3 cups granulated sugar

1/4 cup water

1 teaspoon instant espresso powder

1/4 cup (4 tablespoons) unsalted butter OR unsalted margarine, softened

1 large egg

1 large egg white

1 cup nonfat plain yogurt

2 teaspoons vanilla

Powdered sugar for garnish

Coat a 10-cup bundt pan or an 8-cup loaf pan with nonstick cooking spray and dust lightly with flour; tap out excess. Sift together flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt; set aside. Stir together cocoa, 1/3 cup granulated sugar, water and espresso powder; set aside.

Beat butter with an electric mixer on high speed 1 minute. Add remaining 1 cup sugar and beat 1 minute more. Mixture will be dry and grainy. With mixer on low speed, slowly add egg and egg white. Beat on high speed 2 minutes. Turn to low speed. Alternately add flour mixture, yogurt and vanilla in thirds, mixing lightly.

Remove 1 1/2 cups batter and stir in cocoa mixture. Spoon about 3/4 of white batter into prepared pan. Spoon alternating dollops of chocolate and white batters around top of batter in pan. Use a butter knife to marble batters together.

Bake in 350-degree oven 45 to 50 minutes for a bundt pan, 50 to 55 for loaf pan, until a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, Cool in pan 10 minutes then loosen from sides of pan and invert onto a cooling rack. Cool completely.

Sift powdered sugar over top at serving time. Makes 12 servings.

LEMON YOGURT MOUSSE

1 cup plain low-fat yogurt

1 1/2 teaspoons unflavored gelatin 

Water

Peel of 1/2 lemon, removed with a vegetable peeler

3/4 cup sugar

1/2 cup fresh lemon juice

1 large egg

1 large egg yolk 

2 teaspoons orange liqueur

4 large egg whites

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar 

Put yogurt in a strainer lined with a coffee filter. Place over a bowl, cover and refrigerate 12 to 24 hours. Discard liquid that drains from yogurt. Yogurt should measure about 1/2 cup.

Sprinkle gelatin over 3 tablespoons cold water and let stand at least 5 minutes.

Mince lemon peel with 1/4 cup sugar until peel is as fine as sugar. Transfer to a small saucepan and add lemon juice, egg and egg yolk. Whisk until smooth.

Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens enough to coat back of a wooden spoon. Strain into a bowl and stir in gelatin mixture and orange liqueur. Chill until mixture begins to thicken and set but has not fully gelled.

To make a safe meringue, combine egg whites, 4 teaspoons water, cream of tartar and 1/4 cup sugar in top of a double boiler. Cook over simmering water, whisking constantly, until mixture reaches 160 degrees F. Immediately pour into bowl of an electric mixer. Beat on high speed, gradually adding remaining 1/4 sugar, about 5 minutes, until whites are cool, thick and glossy.

Whisk yogurt into lemon and egg yolk mixture, mixing until smooth. Gently fold this mixture into whites. Transfer to 6 individual serving goblets and chill at least 2 hours before serving.

Let stand at room temperature 5 to 10 minutes before serving. Makes 4 cups, 6 servings.

BREAKFAST YOGURT SHAKE

1 cup plain yogurt OR your favorite flavor yogurt

1 small banana

1 tablespoon frozen orange juice OR apple juice concentrate

4 ice cubes

In a blender, whirl all ingredients until smooth. Makes about 2 1/2 cups.

NOTE: For variety, add any of the following: 1 cup cubed melon; 1/2 cup frozen OR fresh berries, such as raspberries, strawberries, blueberries; nectarines, pear chunks; 1/2 cup pineapple; 1/2 green apple, chopped; 1 peeled chopped kiwi; 1 peeled, chopped orange; few dashes ground cinnamon; ground nutmeg OR vanilla.

YOGURT VEGETABLE DIP

1 package (8 ounces) cream cheese, cubed and softened

1 package (0.4 ounces) ranch-style dressing mix

1 tablespoon milk

1 cup plain yogurt

Assorted fresh vegetables to use as dippers 

In a mixer bowl, beat cream cheese, dressing mix and milk until smooth. Using a wire whisk, beat in yogurt until combined.

Cover; chill before serving. Serve with desired vegetable dippers. Makes 2 cups dip, 16 servings.

CRANBERRY ORANGE DIP

1 cup lemon OR vanilla low-fat yogurt

1/2 cup cranberry-orange relish

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1 medium apple

1 medium nectarine 

Lemon juice

2 cups seedless grapes

1 cup fresh pineapple, cut into chunks OR 1 can (8 1/4 ounces) pineapple chunks, drained

In a mixing bowl, stir together yogurt, cranberry relish, nutmeg and ginger. Cover; chill before serving.

Just before serving, core apple; halve nectarine and remove pit. Slice apple and nectarine; brush with lemon juice.

Serve dip with apple slices, nectarine slices, grapes and pineapple chunks. Makes about 1 1/4 cups dip, 10 servings.

COLD BASIL CUCUMBER SOUP

3 cups plain low-fat yogurt

1 long OR 2 short cucumbers, peeled, grated and coarsely chopped

1/4 cup chopped fresh basil leaves

3 to 4 tablespoons lemon juice

1 clove garlic, crushed through a press

Salt and pepper 

Water (about 1 cup)

In a large bowl, combine yogurt, cucumber, basil, lemon juice and garlic. Add salt and pepper to taste. Add water to desired consistency.

Refrigerate at least 1 hour before serving. Makes 4 servings, 1 1/2 cup each.

FRUIT BOWL

1 medium orange

1 medium nectarine OR plum

1 medium peach

1/2 cup strawberries

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1/2 cup lemon OR vanilla low-fat yogurt

1 teaspoon brown sugar

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

Lettuce cups

Working over a small bowl, peel and section orange. Reserve orange juice. Place orange sections in a mixing bowl. Slice nectarines. Peel and thinly slice peach. Add nectarine and peach slices to bowl. Remove hulls from strawberries. Halve berries; add to bowl.

Sprinkle lemon juice over fruit. Gently toss fruit together.

For yogurt dressing, add yogurt brown sugar, and ginger to bowl with reserved orange juice; stir.

Arrange lettuce cups on 4 individual salad plates. Evenly divide fruit mixture among plates. Pour yogurt dressing over salads. Makes 4 side-dish servings.

LAYERED GARDEN VEGETABLE SALAD

1 medium head lettuce, torn into pieces (6 cups)

1 package (10 ounces) frozen peas, thawed

2 cups thinly sliced cauliflower flowerets

1 cup shredded carrot

2 cups cherry tomatoes, halved

1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese

1 cup plain yogurt

3/4 cup mayonnaise OR salad dressing

2 tablespoons sliced green onions

Paprika 

In a large glass bowl, place 1/2 of torn lettuce. Layer peas, cauliflower and carrot on top of lettuce layer. Add remaining torn lettuce and cherry tomato halves; sprinkle with shredded cheese.

In a mixing bowl, stir together yogurt and mayonnaise; spread over top of salad. Cover and chill several hours or overnight before serving.

Before serving, sprinkle top of salad with sliced green onions and paprika to taste; toss salad thoroughly. Makes 12 side-dish servings.

CREAMY VEGETABLE POTPOURRI

1/2 small head cabbage

1/4 small head cauliflower

1 small zucchini

1 stalk celery

1 small carrot

1/4 cup plain yogurt

1/4 cup bottled creamy cucumber salad dressing

1 teaspoon poppy seeds

Dash Tabasco sauce

Cut cabbage into quarters. Shred cabbage. Cut cauliflower into small flowerets. Slice flowerets, if desired. Cut zucchini lengthwise in half, then cut into slices to form half-circles. Thinly bias-slice celery. Shred carrot.

In a large salad bowl or mixing bowl, toss together shredded cabbage, cut cauliflower, cut zucchini, sliced celery and shredded carrot.

For dressing, in a small mixing bowl stir together yogurt, salad dressing, poppy seeds and Tabasco sauce.

Pour yogurt dressing over vegetable mixture. Toss until vegetables are well coated. Makes 6 side-dish servings.

CURRIED BEEF SKEWERS WITH YOGURT-CHUTNEY

DIPPING SAUCE

CURRIED BEEF:

1 pound boneless sirloin steak, trimmed of all visible fat

1/4 cup mango chutney, chopped finely

1 cup plain nonfat OR low-fat yogurt

2 tablespoons water

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

1 teaspoon curry powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon Tabasco sauce

YOGURT CHUTNEY DIPPING SAUCE:

1/2 cup plain nonfat OR low-fat yogurt

3 tablespoons mango chutney, chopped finely

1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon curry powder

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin 

Pinch cayenne pepper

For curried beef, slice meat crosswise into 16 (1/4-inch-thick) strips. In a medium non-aluminum bowl, mix chutney, yogurt, water, vinegar, curry powder, salt and Tabasco sauce. Add meat and toss to coat well. Cover and marinate in refrigerator 4 to 6 hours or overnight, turning meat occasionally.

For yogurt chutney dipping sauce, Put all sauce ingredients in a small bowl and stir to mix. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

To cook meat skewers, preheat broiler or light barbecue grill. Thread 1 meat strip on each of 16 (10- to 12-inch) bamboo skewers, soaked in water overnight. Broil, in batches if necessary, or grill, 3 to 5 minutes until done to taste. (No need to turn skewers, if broiling.)

Serve with dipping sauce. Makes 16 skewers and 2/3 cup sauce; 4 servings.

TANDOORI-STYLE CHICKEN

1 plain nonfat OR low-fat yogurt

3 tablespoons white vinegar

2 teaspoons minced garlic

1 3/4 teaspoons garam masala (see Note)

1 1/4 teaspoons ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

6 skinned and boned chicken breast halves (about 1 3/4 pounds), trimmed of all visible fat

1 1/4 teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 cups sliced onions

In a medium nonaluminum bowl, mix yogurt, vinegar, garlic, garam masala, ginger and cayenne pepper. Cut 4 (1/2-inch deep) diagonal slashes in skinned side of each chicken breast. Sprinkle salt in slashes. Add chicken to yogurt mixture, turning to coat. Cover and refrigerate at least 8 hours or overnight.

Brush a 13x9-inch baking dish with 1 teaspoon of oil. Remove chicken from marinade and arrange in a single layer, slashed-side up, in baking dish. Spoon a little of marinade over chicken; discard remainder. Sprinkle onions over chicken and drizzle with remaining 2 teaspoons oil.

Bake in preheated 375-degree oven 25 to 30 minutes, until chicken is cooked through.

Put chicken under preheated broiler 3 to 5 minutes to brown onions. Serve at once. Makes 6 servings.

NOTE: Garam masala is available in most Indian specialty shops and upscale grocery stores. OR make your own.

To make garam masala, in a cup, mix 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin, 1 teaspoon ground coriander, 1 teaspoon ground cardamom, 1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, 1/4 teaspoon ground bay leaves and pinch of ground cloves.

If ground bay leaves are not available, grind whole leaves to fine powder in a clean coffee mill or with a mortar and pestle.

MUSTARD PORK CHOPS

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

4 pork loin chops, cut 1/2-inch thick (about 1 1/4 pounds total)

1/4 cup fine dry bread crumbs

2 tablespoons cornmeal 

1 tablespoon whole-wheat flour

1/3 cup plain yogurt

1 tablespoon chutney, chopped

Spread mustard on all surfaces of chops. Combine bread crumbs, cornmeal and flour. Coat chops with crumb mixture. Place chops in a 9x9x2-inch baking pan.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 30 to 40 minutes or until chops are no longer pink and coating is lightly browned.

Stir together yogurt and chutney; spoon on top of chops. Makes 4 servings.

GRILLED BOMBAY SKEWERS

MARINADE:

1 cup plain nonfat OR low-fat yogurt

2 teaspoons curry powder

3 tablespoons soy sauce

4 cloves garlic

1 1/2 inch piece fresh peeled ginger

2 pounds boneless, lean meat, cut into 1x1-inch pieces, such as lamb, beef, pork OR chicken OR shelled prawns

Vegetables as desired

SPICY DIPPING SAUCE:

1/2 cup plain nonfat OR low-fat yogurt

1/4 cup crunchy peanut butter

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1/2 cup soy sauce

2 tablespoons rice wine OR cider vinegar

2 teaspoons red pepper flakes

For marinade, combine yogurt, curry powder, soy sauce, garlic and ginger. Combine with meat or prawns. Marinate 2 hours or overnight in refrigerator.

Skewer with vegetables, such as bell pepper chunks, onion wedges, cherry tomatoes, Japanese eggplant slices, zucchini or squash slices, mushrooms. Grill or broil until done.

For Spicy Dipping Sauce, mix all sauce ingredients well.

Serve skewers with couscous or rice and Spicy Dipping Sauce. Makes 6 servings.

CREAMY CITRUS CHEESECAKE

3/4 cup crushed graham crackers

2 tablespoons margarine, melted

3 eggs

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 teaspoon finely shredded orange peel

1/4 cup orange juice

3 teaspoons vanilla

2 packages (8-ounces) cream cheese

1 cup plain, lemon OR vanilla low-fat yogurt

2 tablespoons powdered sugar

Fresh fruit (optional)

In a mixing bowl, combine graham crackers and margarine. Press onto bottom of a 7-inch springform pan.

Bake in preheated 325-degree oven 6 minutes; cool on a rack.

In a blender container or a food processor bowl, combine eggs, granulated sugar, orange peel and juice and 2 teaspoons vanilla. Cut cream cheese into chunks; add to blender and process until smooth. Stir in 1/2 cup yogurt. Pour into crust.

Bake at 325-degrees 50 to 60 minutes or until nearly set.

Combine remaining 1/2 cup yogurt, powdered sugar and remaining 1 teaspoon vanilla. Spread over hot cheesecake. Loosen sides of pan. Cool on a wire rack; chill.

To serve, carefully remove sides of pan. Garnish with fruit. Makes 8 servings.

PEACH ALMOND KUCHEN 

CRUMB TOPPING:

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

3 tablespoons brown sugar

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

3 tablespoons margarine OR butter

CRUMB TOPPING:

1/4 cup toasted sliced almonds

FRUIT MIXTURE:

1 1/4 pounds medium peaches OR nectarines, peeled, pitted and sliced (4 cups)

1 cup lemon OR vanilla low-fat yogurt

1 package (3 ounces) cream cheese, softened

2 eggs

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

For crumb topping, stir together 1/2 cup flour, brown sugar and cinnamon. Cut in margarine until mixture resembles fine crumbs. Stir in almonds. Set aside.

For fruit mixture, spoon peaches into an ungreased 10x6x2-inch dish. In a small mixer bowl, beat yogurt and cream cheese with an electric mixer on medium speed or a rotary beater. Add eggs, granulated sugar and 1/4 cup flour, beating until smooth. Pour yogurt mixture over fruit in dish. Sprinkle crumb topping on top.

Bake in a preheated 375-degree oven 30 minutes or until filling is set. Cut into squares; serve warm. Makes 6 servings.

STRAWBERRIES BRULEE

4 cups fresh strawberries OR other favorite berries

1/2 of an 8-ounce container (1/2 cup) soft-style OR whipped cream cheese

1/2 cup vanilla low-fat yogurt

3 tablespoons brown sugar

Halve strawberries. Arrange fruit evenly in bottom of a shallow 8-inch round broilerproof pan or 2-quart glass ceramic casserole.

Meanwhile, in a small mixer bowl, beat cream cheese with an electric mixer on medium speed until fluffy. Add yogurt and 1 tablespoon brown sugar. Beat on medium speed until smooth. Spoon yogurt mixture over fruit. Sprinkle remaining 2 tablespoons brown sugar over.

In preheated broiler, broil 4 to 5 inches from heat 2 to 3 minutes or just until brown sugar melts and starts to darken. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

LEMON LIGHT POUND CAKE

1 1/3 cups flour

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/8 teaspoon salt

3 eggs, separated

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

1 cup sugar

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter

2 teaspoons grated lemon peel

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1/2 cup lemon yogurt

Combine flour, baking soda and salt; set aside. Beat egg whites with cream of tartar until soft peaks form. Gradually add 1/4 cup sugar, beating constantly until stiff.

Cream butter, gradually add remaining 3/4 cup sugar, creaming until fluffy. Beat in egg yolks, lemon peel and juice. Stir flour mixture alternately with yogurt into creamed butter mixture. Gently but thoroughly fold in egg whites.

Turn into buttered and floured 8 1/2x4 1/2-inch loaf pan.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 60 to 65 minutes. Cool in pan 10 minutes; turn out on a rack to finish cooling. Makes 12 servings.

DOUBLE STRAWBERRY YOGURT PIE

2 cups fresh OR frozen (see Note) strawberries, quartered

1/4 cup sugar

2 cups light strawberry yogurt

1/4 cup water

1 envelope unflavored gelatin

1 prepared 9-inch graham cracker crust

Light whipped topping

Sliced strawberries for garnish

In a medium bowl, combine strawberries and sugar. With a fork, mash until chunky-smooth. Add yogurt. Mix well.

Place water in a small saucepan and add gelatin. Let stand 1 minute. Heat over low heat until completely dissolved about 1 minute. Remove from heat and add to yogurt mixture. Stir well.

Pour into graham cracker crust. Refrigerate until firm, about 4 hours.

Garnish top of pie with whipped topping and sliced strawberries. Makes 8 servings.

NOTE: If using frozen strawberries, which have more moisture than fresh, use an extra 1 1/2 teaspoons gelatin.

VANILLA YOGURT TIRAMISU 

18 ladyfingers OR 18 (1x4-inch) pieces sponge or pound cake

3/4 cup strong coffee

4 navel oranges, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch diced pieces

2 cups light vanilla yogurt

1 ounce grated bittersweet chocolate

Dip 9 ladyfingers, one at a time, into coffee and arrange in a single layer on bottom of an 8- or 9-inch square glass baking dish. Cover with 1/2 of orange pieces. Spread with 1 cup yogurt.

Repeat layers with remaining ladyfingers, orange pieces and yogurt. Sprinkle with chocolate. Refrigerate at least 6 hours. Makes 6 servings.

All yogurts aren't alike@

Commercial yogurtmaking uses two basic methods. The traditional way is to ferment the yogurt a cup at a time by adding the bacteria cultures to milk in the container. Fruit also is added, often on the bottom.

The cup then is capped and incubated in a warm bath for a set time to allow the bacteria to form lactic acid, which in turn coagulates the milk protein, creating the yogurt pudding or gel.

The second process _ called blended, custard or Swiss-style _ mixes the milk, fruit, flavorings and cultures in a large vat. Hundreds of gallons are made at one time then pumped into the individual containers.

In either case, if the resulting yogurts are to retain live and active cultures they need to be refrigerated to keep them from fermenting further.

``Yogurts with live and active cultures are dated, but that's not really for a safety factor,'' says Tim Morck of Dannon. ``The bacteria are very protective.'' The date is more indicative of taste and appearance, not spoilage.

A few yogurts, such as those from SnackWell's, are heated or pasteurized after fermentation. This destroys any live cultures and greatly prolongs shelf life. But the consumer doesn't get any of the benefits of the friendly bacteria.

There's no difference between pasteurized yogurt and pudding, says Leslie Sarasin, president of the National Yogurt Association, which is engaged in a campaign to promote brands containing at least 100 million ``live and active'' cultures per gram. Those brands usually display a National Yogurt Association logo boasting of the fact.

CAPTION(S):

4 Photos, Box

Photo: (1--Color) Mocha Marble Cake can be made wit h plain or flavored yogurt. Yogurt is a tasty ingredient adding a tang to sweet desserts.

James E. Quinn/Chicago Tribune

(2--Color) The popularity of yogurt in the United States began to grow with the development of sweet fruit flavors such as banana cream pie, lemon chiffon and strawberry cheesecake.

Bill Hogan/Chicago Tribune

(3) Curried Beef Skewers With Yogurt Chutney Dipping Sauce, top, and Tandoori-Style Chicken feature the enriching tang of yogurt.

(4) Yogurt provides a taste sensation for Creamy Citrus Cheesecake.

Box: All yogurts aren't alike (See text)