Woven necklaces inspired by Pueblo and Navajo weaving.

The study of Native Americans is an important part of the social studies curriculum in the fourth grade, as well as in a few other grade levels. Since the students learn how the Native Americans used materials that were available in their environment to provide their daily needs, and weaving is an important part of their culture, I decided to teach the fourth grade students how to weave.

In order to learn a variety of techniques and provide an opportunity for practice, we first did a weaving of a bookmark on a piece of cardboard measuring 2 1/4 X 5 1/2" (16 x 14 cm). We marked eight slits, which were 1/4" (.6 cm) apart on the top and bottom of the cardboard, and then we placed the warp on the cardboard. We began with a regular weave of over-under. Then, I taught the students how to weave a square, stripes, and a diagonal.

After the students were finished with the bookmark, they designed a necklace on a piece of cardboard measuring 2 1/4 x 3 1/2" (6 x 9 cm) using the techniques they had learned. Again, we marked eight slits on the top and bottom.

History

Among the Pueblos, the men wove cotton cloth. When the Spanish came to explore the Southwest in 1540, they traded with the tribes. The Spaniards provided the Indians with new animals, such as sheep and horses. The Pueblos began weaving sheep's wool in their blankets, and the Indian crafts were changed by the influence of the Spaniards. The Pueblo cloth weavers invented new weaves, such as tapestry, brocade, and embroidery, and these decorative methods are still used today. Embroidery is adding material to a finished woven piece, while brocade is the adding of material to the basic weave. Tapestry is a heavy woven cloth with decorative designs or pictures.

The Navajo women learned how to weave from the Pueblos shortly after 1680. In the beginning, woven blankets were made to be worn around the shoulders as clothing. Influenced by the Pueblo weavers, designs were stripes of black, brown, and white sheep's wool. Gray was used by carding black and white wool together. Using natural resources, colors were also made from vegetable dyes.

The Navajo began weaving geometric designs and serrated or terraced diamonds or triangles. About 1889, the Navajo started weaving heavy rugs with borders since the Indians could buy manufactured blankets for less money than handwoven blankets.

Navajo Indians, the largest Native American tribe, live in parts of Arizona, New Mexico, and Utah and are famous for their tightly woven rugs. Famous for their fineness of weave and extraordinary sense of design, the Navajo weave on upright looms. They string the warp, known as the foundation threads, up and down. The horizontal threads, which are known as the weft, are woven through the warp threads to create the designs.

Challenges, Accomplishment, and Appreciation

This project really required a tremendous amount of concentration. Weaving the stripes and the diagonal were a challenge; however, fourth grade students felt a strong sense of accomplishment after mastering these techniques. The students can look at Native American weavings and truly appreciate the creativity as well as have an understanding of the history of weaving.

RELATED ARTICLE: Weaving Techniques

Place the warp on the cardboard by tying a knot in the end of the yarn and placing it through one of the slits on the end until the knot touches the back of the cardboard. With the yarn in a vertical position, place the yarn through the slit at the opposite end, and then go under the tab and up through the next slit. Continue placing the yarn through the slits and under the tabs until the yarn has been pulled through the last slit. Then, tie a knot with the remaining yarn on the back.

Regular Weave: Allow about 2" (5 cm) of yarn to hang off the side when beginning. Weave by alternating the yarn over-under the warp.

Weaving a square or rectangle: Weave only on the four warp strings in the center using the regular weave of over-under. Using a different color, weave on the two warp strings on the outside edge. A slit will form between the square and the sides; therefore, beginning with a few rounds of regular over-under weaving will prevent the square and sides from hanging separately from the end. Tuck the small pieces of yarn, which began and ended the square, through the slit to the hack.

Weaving stripes: Choose two colors of yarn. Let a piece of yarn measuring about 2" (5 cm) hang off the side. Weave one line of the first color using the regular over-under technique. Weave one line of the second color using the regular over-under technique. If the first color of yarn is under the warp on the edge, place it on top of the second color on the outside. If the first color is over the warp on the edge, place it under the second color on the outside. One has to include the yarn on the outside in the alternating over-under technique. Alternate weaving the two colors.

Weaving a diagonal: Allow about 2" (5 cm) of yarn to hang off the side and place the yarn over the first warp string. Place the yarn underneath the first warp string to return to the side. Use the regular weaving technique of over-under adding one warp string each time. After a warp string is added, always weave back to the side where the weaving of the diagonal began. After weaving on each warp string, pack the weaving tightly together and repeat the procedure filling in the empty space so the two diagonal lines meet.

Finishing the Weaving When the weaving is finished, remove it from the cardboard by slipping the yarn off both ends and either tuck the yarn, which is hanging off the side, into the woven loops on the back or tie them together. Turn the weaving upside-down, and use the bottom as the top because the loops at the bottom can be used to hang the weaving so that it can be worn. Pull gently on the loops so that the small loops on the other end will disappear into the weaving.

Using the same color as the loops, tie two loops of yarn together at a time so the weaving will stay in place; otherwise, some of the weaving can slide down the loops. Repeat the colors of yarn in the weaving and combine them to form a band from which the weaving can hang. Thread the band through the loops, and the necklace is done.

Resources

Glubok, Shirley. The Art of the Southwest Indians. New York: The Macmillan Co., 1971.

Manley, Ray. Southwestern Indian Arts and Crafts. Tucson, AZ: Ray Manley Photography, Inc., 1975

Tanner, Clara Lee, and Richard Kirk. Our Indian Heritage. Chicago: Follett Publishing Co. Copyright by David-Stewart Publishing Co., 1961.

Berniece Patterson is an art specialist at Woodrow Wilson Elementary School in Denton, Texas.