Why should I care about organic cotton?

Talk to almost anyone, interested in preserving or investing in his or her own health and with brief explanation, the connection to organically produced food is crystal clear. Bring up the subject about organically produced agricultural products for use in textiles and the subject is often met with a quizzical response, if not total apathy. The importance of organically growing agricultural products for non-consumptive uses should not be overlooked as we seek more sustainable and environmentally responsible ways to produce and harvest our crops.

Cotton represents an essential component of foreign exchange for more than fifty countries. Conventional cotton is one of the most widely grown and chemical-intensive crops in the world. Therefore, it is one of agriculture's most environmentally destructive activities. According to the Sustainable Cotton Project (SCP) located in Davis, California, "The simple act of growing and harvesting the one pound of cotton needed to make a T-shirt (or any other conventional cotton product) takes an enormous toll on the earth's air, water and soil, and significantly affects the health of people living in cotton growing areas".

Ironically, the greatest portion of the cotton crop's yield is in the form of cottonseed, from which edible oils are extracted. For every pound of cotton fiber there is a yield of almost two pounds of seed. Cottonseed oil is extremely crude and must undergo chemical refining in order to be edible. Although cottonseed oil is on the American Heart Association's list of "okay foods," manufacturers of quality, healthful food products generally eschew it. Yet cottonseed oil is commonly used in livestock feed (along with the hulls) and in many human foods, which is a possible means for residual pesticides to enter the food chain. Since cotton farming is particularly pesticide and chemical intensive, and the conventional farming of it requires applications of fungicides to the seedlings all the way through to defoliants prior to harvesting, pesticides" and chemicals are used on conventional cotton that are not used on other conventionally grown crops. This exacerbates the possible danger to our food supply and the food chain.

Many of those who would be vigilant about avoiding genetically modified foods are oblivious to the fact that the cotton clothes they wear are likely derived from genetically modified organisms. The vast majority of the cotton grown worldwide is now from genetically modified seeds. Over the past several years, there has been growing concern amongst consumers, activists and scientist that genetic alteration and patenting of life forms may be proceeding way too quickly. Many argue that genetically modified (GMO) products have been rushed to market without adequate testing for long-term environmental and health consequences. Cotton, corn, and soybeans are the leading crops that have been developed by Monsanto and other major GM product developers. Any discussion and activism that addresses GM issues with regard to food safety that fails to include cotton is shortsighted, as all the environmental and health concerns that apply to GM corn and soy also apply to cotton.

The message is apparently resonating as sales of organic fiber textile products are gaining traction. Annual sales growth of organic textiles is starting to outpace sales of organic food. The Organic Trade Association (O.T.A.) reported in their 2004 Manufacturer Survey that sales of organic fiber finished products and particularly organic cotton clothing were dramatically on the rise. According to the survey, conducted in 2003, sales from organic fiber products grew nearly 23 percent in 2003 to $85 million annually. And the overall increase in the organic fiber category was larger than the gain seen for organic foods: 22.7 percent for organic fibers compared with 20.4 percent for organic foods. Organic food and beverage sales are still significantly ahead of fibers, with annual revenues just over $10 billion in 2004, according to the Natural Marketing Institute Organic Trends Report.

The SCP states in its "Care what You Wear" campaign that "Possible bans on the most toxic agricultural chemicals, as well as potential regulations about labeling on genetically engineered products, point to the need to develop sustainable, practical solutions for cotton." This implies that the onus is on the manufacturers that produce the brands we wear to effect the necessary changes. However, it is the choices and preferences of the consumer, thinking from a holistic and sustainable perspective, that will ultimately drive the market.

LIST OF SUSTAINABLE FIBERS:

Organic Cotton--Cotton grown without pesticides and third party certified.

Organic Wool--Produced with chemical and cruelty free animal husbandry.

Hemp--Hardy, extremely versatile, low input, industrial grade crop.

Tencel--Properties of rayon and made from renewable plant resources.

Ingeo--Derived from corn with the properties and feel of a micro-fiber.

Soy--Renewable by-product of food manufacturing exhibiting luxurious softness.

Ecospun--Polyester that is derived from recycled soda bottles.

Bamboo--Made from the pulp of the plant and displaying silk-like properties.

Daniel Sanders has an extensive background in apparel and textile production. He is one of the pioneers of environmentally responsible clothing manufacturing. He can be contacted at Happy Home/Spiritex at 828-254-8949.