Where in Mississippi is...Chunky? (Small-Town Spotlight).

We'd seen the sign along Interstate 20 many times, but no one seemed to know much about the little town with the funny name. "Chunky," the white letters read. Thoughts of candy bars and soup came to mind, but what was the real story behind the place that bore this unusual title? A recent spring day seemed the perfect time to find out.

Driving into the town, located in Newton County about 15 miles west of Meridian, it didn't take long to find the heart of Chunky-the Chunky River, a long and winding waterway with interesting rock formations and unspoiled natural scenery. A weathered one-lane iron and wooden bridge crosses the river here, but thankfully, our trip over it proved that the old bridge wasn't as rickety as it looked. Back in town, we soon discovered that Chunky is a place with much more to be proud of than its namesake river.

Chunky's unusual name, as it turns out, has nothing to do with food. In fact, the title is one of the last remaining pieces of evidence of the area's Native American heritage. This site was formerly a Choctaw village called Chanki Chitto, meaning "Big Chunky," according to a Newton County history website. The name comes from an old Choctaw game called Chanki or Chunka, according to differing sources. The game, played with a round disc and sticks, required skill and accuracy as well as a large flat playing field; it is said that the sand bank of what is now known as the Chunky River here provided the best playing area for the game. Chunky was the southernmost town of the Choctaws and was reportedly visited by the great Shawnee Chief Tecumseh in 1811.

In the 1830s, people began to settle along the Chunky River, according to information compiled by former town clerk Tani Dean. The earliest settlement, known as "Chunkeyville," was southeast of the current town of Chunky. By 1860, Chunkeyville boasted more than 500 residents. The Southern Railroad came through the town beginning in 1861, making the area even more prosperous. The lumber industry was active around Chunky by the early 1890s, when businesses including saw mills, a turpentine still, a barrel factory, and a large cotton gin operated here. Disaster struck the town in 1900 in the form of a major flood; the railroad bridge and complete sections of track were washed out, and Chunky was cut off from the outside world for about 10 days. In 1905, the local cotton gin was sold and moved west to Hickory.

Today, about 350 people live within the city limits of Chunky, according to town clerk Brenda Nicholson. The town may be tiny, but its residents proudly note that Chunky is the site of two stores, a post office, a barber shop, a restaurant, a town hail that also holds the city library, a community ballfield and swimming pool, and two churches, including Chunky Baptist Church, founded in 1894. "This is just a great place to live," said Nicholson, who has lived here for more than 20 years. "It's a very tight-knit community."

One of Chunky's most famous landmarks is Boyette's Fish Camp, which serves legendary fried catfish and shrimp to visitors from miles around. Some 50 years ago, the riverfront restaurant opened as a hamburger stand serving fisherman but was soon converted into what became one of the first fish camps in the state. The Boyette family has owned the restaurant since 1983, and diners have been clamoring to get their hands on the fish camp's secret recipes for coleslaw and hushpuppies ever since.

Lazy Acres Plantation also draws thousands of visitors to Chunky every year for old-fashioned Christmas tree chopping and pumpkin picking. Over the past several years, Leland cypress trees from the farm have often been chosen for display in the Mississippi governor's mansion, state capitol, and other state and city government buildings. Opened in 1980 by Rayburn and Shirley May, the farm is now run by their son Michael, who said he plants about 3,000 trees each year. Families from all over the state--and some from as far away as Tennessee--come here to cut down their own fresh Leland cypress, Virginia pine, Eastern red cedar, or Carolina Sapphire trees during the holiday season, which officially kicks off Thanksgiving day. Holiday festivities and attractions include sleigh rides, caroling, hot apple cider, and a 17-foot-tall Santa. And for those who can't wait until Christmastime, farm owners also let visitors pick their own pumpkins from the Pumpkin Patch during October's Harvest Festival, which also feature s hay and corn mazes, pig races, and hayrides. Visitors can also see a live reindeer named "Dasher," two whitetail deer, and other animals inside a special attraction called "Noah's Park."

It's often remarkable to discover just how fascinating small Mississippi towns can be, and our look around Chunky was no different. This tiny place has a distinctive history and unique modern attractions. It may not be named for a candy bar, but for the residents of Chunky, life is very sweet.

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Boyette's Fish Camp is located on Old Highway 80 and is open Wednesday and Thursday from 5-9 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 4-10 p.m., and Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. No checks. For additional information, call 601/655-8311.

Lazy Acres Plantation, 596 Lazy Acres Rd., will hold its annual Harvest Festival on weekends this year beginning October 4. The farm will open for the Christmas season on Thanksgiving day at 1 p.m. For hours and details, call 601/655-8264 or see www.lazy-acres.com.