What is gourmet?

SOCRATES, DURING HIS LIFETIME, wrote nothing. Not a word. Not a page. He lived under the belief that knowledge was interactive. His method of philosophical inquiry consisted of questioning people on their positions and working them through questions into contradictions, thus proving their original assertions were incomplete or entirely wrong. (Just the sort of person to invite if you wanted to stir up a lackluster dinner party.)

And so with Socrates in mind, Art Culinaire set off on a quest, approaching a recent query of ours in a similar fashion to how Socrates approximated his many.

Used flippantly, thrown around in magazines, as part of restaurant names, as an adjective "Oh that dinner was so gourmet" or "that little wife of yours can sure whip up one heck of a gourmet meal," the word grated on us. The more we thought about its heedless usage, the more we wondered, 'What did it actually mean? Were there and why were some foods considered more gourmet than others? Why couldn't something as simple and extraordinary as homemade ketchup (a la David Page of Home in New York City) be considered 'gourmet'? Or could it? Who determines what does or does not fall into the 'gourmet' category?'

A journey through the daunting Manhattan yellow pages only furthered the case that the word was everywhere: It was mentioned in some 264 New York business names. Here are just some of those listings: 10th Avenue Gourmet, 213 Grand St. Gourmet, Eastchester Fish Gourmet Shop, Palate Pleasers Gourmet, (then there was my personal favorite: A Tisket A Tasket, Fruit & Gourmet Baskets), City Underground Gourmet, David Burke Gourmet Pops, and 257 other ways.

That's just for starters. A yellow page search of restaurants nationwide came up with over 2,000 business that included the word 'gourmet' in their name. I was certain my publisher would tell me we didn't have it in our budget to visit them all. So I moved on.

To the reference desk:

From The American Heritage[R] Dictionary:

   gourmet (gur-MAY) n.1. A connoisseur of fine food and drink.--
   attributive. Often used to modify another noun: gourmet cooking;
   gourmet restaurants. [French, from Old French, alteration (influenced
   by gourmand, glutton; see GOURMAND) of groumet, servant, valet in
   charge of wines, from Middle English grom, boy, valet.]

   USAGE NOTE: A gourmet is a person with discriminating taste in food
   and wine, as is a gourmand. Gourmand can also mean one who enjoys
   food in great quantities. An epicure is much the same as a gourmet,
   but the word may sometimes carry overtones of excessive refinement.

And then to Sharon Tyler Herbst's The New Food Lover's Companion:

   gourmet [goor-MAY] 1. One of discriminating palate; a connoisseur of
   fine food and drink. 2. Gourmet food is that which is of the highest
   quality, perfectly prepared and artfully presented. 3. A gourmet
   restaurant is one that serves well-prepared, high quality food.

Where better to turn to get some clarification than Gourmet, The Magazine of Good Living? After trying to solicit an answer from the editorial department, where it was thought my question could result in "entrapment," I was sent to (where else?) the Media Relations Department. Certainly someone there might be able to expound on the word.

I waited and waited for an answer. And never got one.

Again on my own, I considered the query. The word 'quality' seems to be the operative term. It's key. Without quality, however simple or complicated, 'gourmet' is ineffectual. I thought about the many meals I've had in what are considered by majority rule (those leading newspapers and guides)--great restaurants. Too often, language is confused. Misinterpreted. Customers led astray. Something that is 'expensive' isn't necessarily 'excellent'. Sometimes, ingredients that might be called 'exotic' are actually 'exhausted'. The excitement of so many different flavors actually overwhelm and compete. Or they simply work against each other, providing no flavor at all. I thought back to Sharon Tyler Herbst. What did she mean by 'artfully presented'? I've seen plate presentations resembling some new-fangled architectural project pending approval (but most likely headed for a lengthy fight among neighbors.) Were they artful? All of the above assertions might seem obvious, but sometimes adeptly defy, healthily reminding us of our own ignorance.

Seems simplicity is also cardinal. A bowl of spaghetti, a burger, or a sandwich--are these common items less than refined? Can't these foodstuffs somehow fit the archetype of 'gourmet' if perhaps, at the crux of our investigation are the ingredients themselves, where they are from and how they are they handled? Perhaps to the definition of 'gourmet,' the word "thoughtful" can be incorporated.

And so, Socrates leads us to study several chefs with approaches that vary in spectrum. Embarking on this topical journey, we realized the hazards. Sure, our query could prove fruitless. Maybe it would even be laughed at. But, it turned out to be nothing less than rewarding. With the help of David Bouley, Gray Kunz, Andy Nusser, Mario Batali, David Page and Barbara Shinn, we explore a diverse sampling of cuisine. And we learn, too, that challenging illusions--like the one that our world is already comprehended perfectly--is, well, perfectly okay, if not (in this case), gourmet.

"I LOVE TO LET THEM GO."

DAVID BOULEY

BOULEY, NEW YORK, NY

IT TOOK DAVID BOULEY A FEW DAYS TO GET BACK TO ME. HE HAD no cell phone reception "up in the country." But now, in his car, on the ride back from somewhere near the Berkshires, he's talking about fishing while munching on blueberries. He's been eating a lot of blueberries these days--with a special type of French yogurt and flax seed. His voice starts to cut in and out. Shoddy cell reception. In between, I jot down what is audible: He's "been up with the farmers" ... "there's not a whole lot to eat on the road between the country and New York City" ... "driving back with 25 cases of fresh fruit that's pure sugar right now." The phone cuts out. He's gone. So we meet up a couple weeks later and start a new conversation.

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David Bouley is not one to dodge a question. Ask and you'll get an answer. It might be long, though. He pokes fun at himself, saying he "talks too much." But we hope he doesn't ever stop. There's value in the detail.

The day we meet, he is back from Spain where he spent time in the El Bulli test kitchen. This trip was also part reconnaissance mission to Paris, securing new chairs and finding fabric for the banquettes and pillows--Bouley's decor is due for an update. His arms are full of papers--one of these, a pictorial rendering with details that describe the Florida project (the Ritz-Carlton, South Beach). He's excited, saying it will energize his other restaurant--Danube. He shows me a black and white architectural drawing of the kitchen he's designing with Jacques Garcia (who also had a hand in Spice Market and Danube, the latter his first North American project).

Before we get to my list of 20 questions, disguised as only ten, David talks about the 14' X 6' custom-made Molteni stoves to be installed in the South Beach kitchen. Another will go in the Bouley kitchen next week (when the interior gets a face lift). David embarks on an explanation of how and why the plancha component uses electricity efficiently. His narration extends to the scientific. David describes how heat is conducted, how molecules change at varying temperatures. "... The density of really, really thick black steel rolled with chrome and nickel will direct heat, but it will be dispersed slowly. As a result, vegetables or protein will cook evenly. When something is really dense, it can maintain its temperature. That's valuable and prevents trouble--if something isn't searing right or the juices run out."

I'm offered sparkling water. David takes tea. He tells me he quit drinking coffee five years ago, now he's into sencha and bancha teas "brewed within two to three degrees of 65 degrees Celsius." "The hotter the water, the more bitter the flavor." He compares the taste to drinking a Chardonnay. "There's fatness, a deeper flavor and complexity."

But he seems particularly focused on his health. Maybe meddlesome, I decide to ask how he is. (It's not on my list of questions, but nor were the Molteni stoves, or the redesign of Bouley.) He abates my concern. He's in fine shape. As a matter of fact, he's off to the gym in 50 minutes.

"I'm a guinea pig for one year. I'm working with a nutritionist to see just how healthy I can get. I just had my hair and blood totally analyzed. A medical doctor would say everything is in 'the zone', but a nutritionist will narrow that down further. For example, I'm told I need more bacteria and less acid." Ah! This explains the special blend of yogurt he mentioned on the phone. It's all part of the detoxification stage he's entered to cleanse his liver. He calls food "so much more personal these days."

"There are so many benefits to enjoy from eating properly. Once you understand how food makes you feel you can appreciate it for its pureness and pleasure. Japanese cooking has taught me this, as well; the cuisine has a health function." He pauses before adding, "Did I mention my uncle is a holistic doctor in France?"

Three weeks before this conversation, we had our photo shoot at Bouley. David had more ideas than we had film, but he felt compelled to include wild striped bass. He caught it the day before in Chatham, Massachusetts (a 36" fish hooked on his first cast). Sitting with him now, he talks about that fishing trip. "It's such an intellectual challenge--fishing. I love it. I grew up on the coast and fished so much when I was a kid. That particular weekend, I took a few Japanese visitors on a professional lobster boat to the Cape. We went out at about 4:30 in the morning. We got a mile and a half out when the red sun came up. It was so beautiful."

Now, David's voice is quiet, but shifts speeds--as if moving between gears. His detail is engaging, describing just how the fish were caught. That a retired friend, "an amazing fisherman" showed him and the visiting Japanese professors precisely how and where to catch their fish, bringing them to a sandbar, instructing them just where to drop the lure. "Each of us caught a fish on our first three casts." He describes each detail of the catch. Certainly Hemingway would have appreciated his enthusiasm. "... Then later, the three professors and myself showed a group of fisherman just how fish are killed in Japan and cooked a fourteen course kaiseki menu."

"In Japan, they don't just put animals in boxes and throw them on trucks and allow them to suffocate--like they do here. When they have a live fish, they push a knife in the head and pierce the skull. Then they cut the spinal cord, severing all the nerves, and the blood is pushed out which also flushes out the toxins. It's amazing. The fish lays down so gently. It's like watching air leak out of a mattress. The meat is so clean and sweet. That's why the Japanese sashimi quality is so good. Here, when you put a fish in water, scale it and remove the cavity, the oxygen still goes into the incisions and continues to pump the muscles." He says this negatively effects the quality.

David has recently been getting into Japanese culture and cuisine, traveling to Japan every two or three months for the last four and a half years. He's been a 'stagiaire' at family-owned restaurants that specialize in tempura or sashimi. For a chef at the top of his game, his humility is a tonic.

We change course: to Danube. When David talks about the restaurant, it is "The Danube" much like how Southern Californians refer to their freeways--using a subject to give its direct object more weight. I ask, 'Why Danube?' David's roots are French, after all. Turns out his interest in the region originated in his twenties when he dated a girl whose parents were of Slavic origin (her father had lived in Vienna). His 12 or so-year relationship with her and her family exposed him to this part of the world. When David tells the story it's detail-driven. But he's kind enough to sum it up for me.

"If I had to put it all in one sentence--"

"... I had an exposure to Austrian and Slavic food when I was younger. I couldn't find this in the United States and wanted to recreate what I had experienced in Europe. Having studied the art and culture of Austria (I'm particularly interested in the secession period of 1890-1920), I was hoping to revive the crazy, prolific time of the artist and the intellectual. I wanted to put food and art together but modernize it."

He explains that he's reapplied those principles learned in France at restaurants like Montrachet. "I wanted to escape from the idea that French food is heavy and can't be eaten often. The exercise really got me thinking about how to lighten up the cuisine. And so I applied this principle to Bouley, as well as to the Austro-Hungarian food at The Danube. That gave it its own identity. There are a lot of people in New York with a Slavic background. I wanted to offer food they'd appreciate and create a rich artisan space to appreciate it in."

That was definitely more than one sentence. But who's counting?

So now what? For someone who continually reinvents himself, one has to wonder, what's to come? "I want to open a test kitchen and school--the one I've been talking about for 10 years." He's serious about this, telling me the previous day he rode his motorcycle back and forth looking for space to house a 30-40 seat "workshop" or "atelier" for training and testing downstairs, with his living quarters upstairs. He calls this "the last chapter in this crazy business--but it's going to be a long one."

"We'll teach two principles: The product and the technique. We want to give people knowledge about something as simple as rice. So, for example, maybe a lady comes here from Milan and she makes a risotto with ingredients from Peck (a 100-year old food store)." The visiting guest may not necessarily be a chef, David explains, but someone who is deeply familiar with their craft because they've "been making it since they were 10 years old." He has no desire to teach something so esoteric the concept cannot be grasped. "There are so many who share their gifts and experience and we will be able to share our gifts with them."

There's no question he wants to make an impact and envisions incorporating other studies all related to food in some way--into the curriculum. Experts in their respective professions--like marine biologists--will be invited to talk about the environment, a subject David believes "business doesn't always allow to be nurtured." He cites a recent example from his trip to the Cape where he learned from such experts about "high-level carbon monoxide in the ocean." "I want to talk about these issues in a way we can expose them--but as culinary people, as a voice under the culinary flag. It's an investment in the future."

After a pause, David adds, "I may open a little fish market too. I want to buy the full catch of the boat--which is only 400 pounds now. Can you imagine?" He repeats the number, staring at me until I register a nod of understanding. Clearly he wants me to grasp the significance. "It used to be so much more, but the oceans are overfished. A fisherman may catch 400 pounds within a few hours and that's it--he's done for the day." David's concern is that by the time a fisherman sells his product to fish markets "there's nothing left." "So by having commitments with these guys I'll be able to get the product in every day. Sometimes you have to do these things to get control over product."

David Bouley is poised for the future. He does not lack confidence and finds it troubling when someone does (maybe more so than overconfidence). "Sometimes you think you know what you're doing, and that drives you to hit the wall. You make mistakes and learn from getting to that crash and burn point. If you only make little mistakes, you're not going to hit the wall as hard. You need to make big ones so you can realize more about yourself. Inspiration comes from risk."

Though difficult to do, after four hours conversing, it was time to let David Bouley go. Ah, but such are the laws of Evolutionary Dynamics....

EXCUSE ME, WHICH DIRECTION IS DESTINY?

GRAY KUNZ

CAFE GRAY, NEW YORK, NY

THERE'S ALREADY SOMETHING special about the new Time Warner Center complex. From any angle, its presence is Gotham-like; shapely steel and glass frame the future and what will be, for some, the most compelling and commanding views in all of New York. One special corner of the third floor is reserved for 40 of Manhattan's most elite--cooks.

Cafe Gray, Gray Kunz's new 'bistro' sits to the southeast--just on the fringe of Central Park. It's sandwiched between the shops of Columbus Circle (a men's J. Crew close by, to replace a shirt or tie if prone to spills). Even the pastry station defies other claustrophobic kitchens. Here, it's a coveted spot, the panorama as grand as any penthouse.

The strategic locale, 60 Columbus Circle, once held bragging rights as the city's center of wealth, entertainment, commerce and residence. It may well reclaim this title once more as this new complex aligns itself with five of the country's most forward and fastest-thinking chefs. Kunz, on that very exclusive short list (with Keller, Trotter, Vongerichten and Takayama), says simply, "it's a given this group comes together."

AC was privy to a preview walk-through of Cafe Gray. The kitchen was spotless and mostly intact. But the dining room was still very much a construction site; the Rockwell Group plans resting on a makeshift plywood table in the private party room, accessible only by a narrow plank walkway.

To state the obvious, the expectations here are already high. But Kunz is unworried, "Having high customer expectations challenges us."

We couldn't have picked a better time-sensitive topic for Kunz. Like us, he was reexamining the word 'gourmet', his goal; to implement his version at the restaurant. "What I'm striving to do is demystify 'gourmet' by making it--pricewise--more sensitive. That would be a great achievement if, at its soul, Cafe Gray can still be upscale, but also surprise people by the food we produce--while keeping costs low."

What everyone seems to be wondering is precisely when this restaurant will open--it's off schedule by more than a few months. And New Yorkers have been waiting patiently for the return of Kunz. Chef de Cuisine Larry Finn, who left San Francisco for this opportunity, is behind his new boss completely. Finn crows, "Chef's palate is one of the best around."

Now about that palate....

Gray Kunz nurtures a philosophical food posture. Born in Singapore to Swiss parents, Kunz feels an affinity with the Far East. He's made, what he calls 'a complete circle', recalling and relying on the sensations he remembers from his childhood to guide today's flavors and aromas. "I think the Far East is an awakening for me in many ways."

Today, Kunz pads his dexterity in the kitchen with conservatism. He cringes at the word fusion, which he considers a "short-lived tactic" without legs or longevity. "You can take something from any cuisine. But you have to be smart in how to implement it. You have to spend time and work at it. It doesn't come overnight."

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Kunz mentions that growing up in another area of the world has offered another sort of understanding; one that has acutely balanced his palate in a different way. He approaches different cultures with deference: "If you have a different skin color it doesn't mean you are at a different level than someone else." Building on that philosophy, he's enrolled his children in the United Nations School and is a proud parent, sharing with us, "My daughter just graduated. Can you believe it, combined, the children in her graduating class speak over 60 languages?"

If a melting pot is what inspires Kunz, he certainly has chosen the right place to settle. New York has taught him to be less rigid while still offering the freedom to bring his ideas to fruition. "That doesn't mean I have to let go of my standards, it just means I can work with a smile. I knew sooner or later there would be a chance to open a restaurant. Cafe Gray is a great joy for me. At Spice Market I'm a collaborative consultant with Jean-Georges."

"A good thing takes time to build. Destiny doesn't always go the direction you think it will."

Third floor, please.

I CAN'T BELIEVE I'M WHORING MY CHILD FOR A PUBLICATION!

ANDY NUSSER

MARIO BATALI

CASA MONO / BAR JAMON, NY

WILLIAM, WHO JUST TURNED SIX-MONTHS OLD, LIVES ONLY A SHORT stroller ride from his Dad's place(s): Casa Mono/Bar Jamon. Dad, Chef and Partner (with Mario Batali) Andy Nusser, says William is still a little young for solid food--but it won't be long before he'll be eating churros and chocolate. "Just look at him!" Andy says holding his son, beaming as a proud parent will. "He's a little processing plant!" One of many countless terms of endearment.

We're at the new Spanish eatery and adjacent closet-size snack bar that occupy a shady corner of Gramercy Park. The restaurants fill a neighborhood vacancy for small, clever, ethnic and eclectic plates. But even more important, they are joined in spirit--there is positive energy here. But that's to be expected from any Batali-backed enterprise.

There was some nervousness about meeting Andy. I was acutely aware that he did not care for a certain word--tapas--when describing his food. For weeks prior to the shoot, I completely swore it off; I didn't even want it swirling somewhere in the back of my mind. But what if it were to slip out? What might Andy's reaction be? I gently warned our photographer on the way into the New York, "Whatever you do, don't call the food "tapas." When we pulled up, the person I assumed was Andy grinned widely. My fears were quickly remedied.

On this day, Andy shuttles between the two restaurants preparing dishes in Casa Mono, then walking them over to Bar Jamon. We're shooting fried anchovies, Andy has them stacked like a sculpture. On the set, they take an unforeseen tumble--and we spend far too long trying to reconstruct the original stack--it was, we think, so perfect. But Andy simply says, "We're getting way too attached to one dish here!" And then out comes the laugh. It's mischievous, maybe even a little nutty. The original version of Bugs Bunny or Woody Woodpecker resurrected.

15 years ago at a party in Santa Barbara, California (a town Nusser says has "too many freaks and too much rich Republican bullshit"), Andy met Mario Batali. What he didn't know at the time was that he and Batali shared something in common. "When I was 11 and 12, I lived on the Costa Brava (near Barcelona) with my parents who were hippies. Ironically, Mario had a similar childhood, except that his father was far from a hippie. Actually, he was a chemical engineer working for Boeing and was transferred to Spain." Both Andy and Mario embraced the Spanish lifestyle as their own.

The Spanish interest that sparked during those early years was revived when Andy went back on his own. "I graduated from high school, got a job at Thrifty Rental Car and saved my money. I bought a bicycle and a one-way ticket and rode my bike all the way through Spain. When I ran out of money. I came back." Nusser sees his Spanish sojourn as the logical progression of the style he's honed with Batali over the last decade (Andy was the chef at Babbo). "Mario and I have had this Spanish agenda in the backs of our heads for a long time now."

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Andy talks about many of the Spanish restaurants in New York City. "From my experience, they seem to still be caught in an era of working out of a can. You get this tinny flavor at many restaurants like the one that's in the Chelsea Hotel. It's beautiful and cool, but they're working out of a can!"

When Andy brings another plate, he laughs, "There's no foam on this one." But the reality is there's no foam on any of these plates. Instead, the food shows off just how simple, clean and perfectly conventional Spanish food can be. "We're big on the cephalopods here!" He's talking about the Pulpo a la Plancha. "The driving force next door is a big hot iron. Everything gets cooked on that thing. It's all about char."

And speaking of char ...

"I am known for burning things. But only when my wife and William come over." We ready for the laugh.

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SHOULD START RAINING AROUND 4 O'CLOCK

DAVID PAGE

BARBARA SHINN

HOME, NEW YORK, NY

HE'S NOT A METEOROLOGIST, BUT MAYBE HE SHOULD BE, WE'RE STANDING ON the back patio at David Page and Barbara Shinn's 'Home'. Well, not really their home, but their Greenwich Village restaurant. At a humid 10am, David glances up at the dim skies looming over this part of Manhattan. He's wary, "Hopefully we can finish shooting before 4 o'clock. The rain should hold off until then."

Whatever you say, David.

Walk into Home and you'd swear you've passed through here before. On a cross-country trip through Iowa? Lost in Wisconsin? Naw....

But then that sliver of sunlight takes you someplace. It has just enough room to squeeze through this narrow dining room and shine on the remaining breakfast patrons. It's proverbial, the boy's vintage felt baseball cap pulled down over his eyes, the sucking sound from a straw in a soda glass--his father sits silently staring into his coffee cup. There's awkwardness in the idleness. Maybe you've shared a similar moment.

This could very well be a Norman Rockwell scene--remember 'Runaway' or 'Hopeless Case'? These clapboard walls, hardwood floorboards, and table daisies--it's all so hauntingly familiar. When Barbara introduces herself wearing a white cotton blouse dotted with a faint flower pattern--the thought is complete. 20 Cornelia Street is an era removed.

The couple's cookbook, Recipes from Home, reflects the feel: Those enlarged 1950s sepia shots of Shinn's family hang here, and can also be found in the book, along with skillful, homespun recipes--that make up the menu. Get a load of the homemade ketchup.

"It makes people nervous when they see ketchup on the menu. Customers are concerned when they reach for the bottle of Heinz--and it's not there. But the tomato has been around longer than Heinz!" David feels Americans have a hard time thinking about food in a logical way. "Even as publications encourage (for example) 'going to Memphis for barbecue', it just doesn't seem to catch on. Instead, people will go to Memphis and eat at 'Le Masion d' Whatever'! People's idea of food is ... strange."

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David tells us how his Greenwich Village 'hood' has changed from the time he and Barbara drove from San Francisco to New York fourteen years ago. David says the neighborhood (and expectations) are becoming "a lot more stylized."

"Did you read the New York Times review on Babbo? They're not getting four stars because of the music they play--Led Zeppelin! But that's what Mario likes it's part of his personality. That review is as good as getting four stars!"

"When we first opened (in 1993) there were barely any corporate restaurants; they just didn't exist. At the time Danny Meyer had Montrachet and Tribeca Grill. Wolfgang Puck had three restaurants. Now Meyer has 27 restaurants that he either owns or manages and Wolfgang ... well...." He pauses thoughtfully, "I have to wonder whether little places like ours can get by."

"Our menu and wine list compose a sustainable restaurant. It's comprised of East Coast wines from Long Island, upstate New York, Massachusetts and Virginia. You won't find any California wines here!"

The Wisconsin native polished his unpretentious style at some of the best restaurants in the West, most notably San Francisco's Masa's and Postrio. In 1990 Page and Shinn packed it in and moved to New York, where David ran the stoves at Country Club and Barbara worked the front of the house at Savoy.

David hands us each a glass of his Young Vines Merlot. That's right, his ... and Barbara's. You'll find Shinn Estates (of Long Island) on the wine list at Home. In 1998, the couple purchased the historic Tuthill farm estate, and planted it (primarily) with Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc. And what a perfect blend they are. It's easy to picture David in a tasting room or giving tours with graying ponytail, plenty of stories and wisdom about things other than wine ... like the weather.

It's 3:58pm. A wind from out of nowhere picks up a tarp and takes it somewhere. The Hawthorne trees start dropping leaves. At 4pm, the skies open up and wouldn't you know it ... we grab our camera equipment and take cover.

RELATED ARTICLE: Seafood Salad with Konowata and Tofu-Miso Dressing (Serves 4)

DAVID BOULEY

Albarino, Dona Rosa

Bodegas Martinez Serantes

Rias Baixas, Spain 2003

directions

For the tofu-miso dressing: In a blender, combine all ingredients; puree until smooth. Set aside at room temperature.

For the seafood salad: In a saute pan over low heat, melt butter; add water and whisk until emulsified. Add crabmeat, chervil, tarragon and season with salt and pepper to taste. Saute until heated through and set aside, keeping warm. Season scallops with salt and pepper to taste. In a hot saute pan, add oil and sear scallops for about 30 seconds on each side. Halve razor clams.

To serve: In a scallop shell, arrange crabmeat, razor clam, mussels, scallop and honeydew melon. Drizzle with tofu-miso dressing, sprinkle with konowata and add chervil sprigs.

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ingredients

For the tofu-miso dressing:

3 tablespoons firm tofu
3 tablespoons white miso
3 tablespoons unsweetened almond paste
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
2 teaspoons mirin
2 teaspoons water

For the seafood salad:

1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon water
4 ounces jumbo lump crabmeat
1 teaspoon finely chopped chervil
1 teaspoon finely chopped tarragon
4 sea scallops with roe, shells removed and reserved
1 tablespoon sunflower oil
4 razor clams, steamed and shells removed
8 mussels, steamed and shells removed
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Scallop shells, cleaned
Honeydew melon cubes
Konowata, finely diced*
Chervil sprigs

* The salted and cured viscera of the Selenka sea cucumber; considered a delicacy of Japanese cuisine, it is very expensive and difficult to find in the United States. Chef Bouley purchased the large piece shown while on a trip to Japan.

RELATED ARTICLE: Langoustines and Egg in a Garlic-Coconut Soup (Serves 6)

DAVID BOULEY

Meursault-Charmes

Domaine Henri Germain

Burgundy, France 2001

directions

For the garlic-coconut soup: Combine tomatoes with a large pinch of salt; mix well and set aside for two hours. Strain tomato mixture through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing on solids to extract all tomato liquid (yielding approximately one quart). In a pot, heat garlic oil; add garlic and shallots; saute until very soft. Add tomato liquid and bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Add coconut milk and bring to a boil; reduce to a simmer and gradually add sunflower oil, blending with a hand-held immersion blender until emulsified. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside, keeping warm. Just before serving, froth using a hand-held immersion blender.

For the langoustines and eggs: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Season langoustine tails with salt and pepper to taste. In a saute pan, heat oil. Add langoustine tails and sear until golden brown and cooked to desired doneness. Set aside, keeping warm. Place two ounces of pate in middle of each serving bowl; create an indentation in center of pate and place a yolk in it. Transfer bowls to oven and "roast" for seven minutes.

To serve: Ladle garlic-coconut soup around truffle pate and add two langoustine tails. Garnish with chives and celery leaves.

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ingredients

For the garlic-coconut soup:

6 pounds tomatoes, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons garlic-infused olive oil
2 bulbs garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
2 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
10 ounces coconut milk
1/2 cup sunflower oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the langoustines and eggs:

12 langoustine tails, shells removed
2 tablespoons sunflower oil
12 ounces black truffle pate*
6 organic egg yolks
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Chives, finely chopped
Celery leaves, finely chopped

* Available through Cibo Specialty Food Service at [phone].

RELATED ARTICLE: Bluefin Toro and Japanese Rice with Frog Legs Confit (Serves 4)

DAVID BOULEY

Riesling Spatlese, Schlossberg

Weingut Selbach-Oster

Mosel-Soar-Ruwer, Germany 2002

directions

For the burnt onion oil: In a pan, heat one tablespoon of oil; add onions and caramelize. In a blender, combine onions, squid ink and remaining oil; puree until smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve; set aside.

For the pickled vegetables: Combine endive, apple and cider vinegar, season with salt and pepper to taste; marinate for one hour in refrigerator. Combine white wine vinegar and sugar, stirring until sugar is melted; add radish, season with salt and pepper to taste and set aside until needed.

For the eel sauce: In a pot, combine all ingredients; simmer for 30 minutes. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the Japanese rice with frog legs confit: In a saute pan, heat oil; add frog legs, garlic, thyme and bay leaf; saute for about two minutes. Discard garlic, thyme and bay leaf. Combine frog legs with remaining ingredients; season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the bluefin toro: Season toro with salt and pepper to taste. In a hot non-stick pan, add oil; sear toro until golden brown on all sides. Cut into 1/4-inch slices.

To serve: Spoon Japanese rice with frog legs confit in a line down a plate; arrange toro pieces on rice and top with pickled endive and apple. Drizzle with eel sauce and burnt onion oil; add slices of pickled radish and mache. Garnish dish with nori.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the burnt onion oil:

1/2 cup grapeseed oil
1 Vidalia onion, peeled and sliced
1 teaspoon squid ink

For the pickled vegetables:

1 head Belgian endive, finely julienned
1/2 Fuji apple, peeled, cored and finely julienned
1/2 cup cider vinegar
3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
1 red breakfast radish, thinly sliced lengthwise
Salt and pepper to taste

For the eel sauce:

Bones of 5 eels, roasted
1 cup Japanese light soy sauce
1/2 cup mirin
3 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
2-inch piece ginger, peeled and grated

For the Japanese rice with frog legs confit:

1 tablespoon sunflower oil
8 frog legs confit, bones removed*
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1 spring thyme
1 bay leaf
2 cups cooked Japanese-style medium grain rice, hot
1 tablespoon mirin
2 tablespoons fresh ginger juice
2 shiso leaves, finely chopped
Salt and pepper to taste

For the bluefin toro:

4 4-ounce pieces bluefin toro**
1 tablespoon sunflower oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Nori, finely julienned
Mache

* Duck fat can be used to make this confit.

** The fatty flesh of the belly area.

RELATED ARTICLE: Japanese Spotted Sardine and Eggplant Terrine (Serves 8)

DAVID BOULEY

Sauvignon Blanc Semillon

Leeuwin Estate

Margaret River, Australia 2002

directions

For the terrine: In a large saute pan, heat oil; add onions, leeks and garlic and saute until onions are translucent. Deglaze with wine; add red peppers, tomatoes, saffron, coriander and parsley, simmer for one hour. Transfer to a food processor fitted with the metal blade, and puree until smooth. Pass through a tamis, season with salt and pepper to taste and set aside to cool. Cut eggplant into 3 1/2-inch wide strips. Lightly brush inside of a 10 X 3 1/2 X 3 1/2-inch terrine mold with oil and line with plastic wrap. Alternately layer red pepper puree, eggplant and sardine fillets; repeat. Fold plastic over top and refrigerate for at least one hour. Before serving, remove terrine from mold, cut into eight slices and remove plastic wrap.

For the wild asparagus-zucchini puree: Cut off skin of zucchini, leaving 1/8-inch of flesh attached; discard interior flesh. Blanch zucchini skin. In a blender, combine zucchini skin, wild asparagus and mint; gradually add oil, while pureeing until smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

To serve: Gently place terrine slice on plate and drizzle with balsamic vinegar and wild asparagus-zucchini puree; add ground orange zest, clams, caviar, marigolds and micro herbs.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the terrine:

2 tablespoons sunflower oil
1 Spanish onion, peeled and thinly sliced
1 leek, white part only, thinly sliced
4 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1/4 cup white wine
2 red peppers, roasted, peeled and seeded
2 tomatoes, finely chopped Pinch of saffron
1 tablespoon coriander seeds, toasted
1/4 bunch parsley, stemmed and finely chopped
2 eggplants, peeled, sliced
1/4-inch thick and grilled
24 Japanese spotted sardines, scaled, filleted and cleaned*
Salt and pepper to taste

For the wild asparagus-zucchini puree:

2 zucchini
1/3 bunch wild asparagus, blanched
1 sprig mint, stemmed
1/2 cup sunflower oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Aged balsamic vinegar
Dried orange zest, ground
Manila clams, steamed and halved
Golden osetra caviar
Marigolds
Micro amaranth
Micro celery

* Available through True World Foods at [phone].

RELATED ARTICLE: Kasha-Crusted Foie Gras with Mango "Caviar" (Serves 2)

DAVID BOULEY

Semillon, Botrytis

Elderton

Barassa Valley, Australia 2002

For the mango "caviar": In a blender, combine mango flesh and four ounces of mango juice; puree until smooth. In a pot, bring puree to a simmer; cook for about three minutes, stirring constantly. Combine remaining mango juice with agar-agar and vitamin C crystals; stir well. Whisk mango juice mixture into puree; bring to a boil and simmer for about one minute, while whisking. Remove from heat and cool over an ice water bath. Transfer to a plastic squeeze bottle fitted with a small tip. Place chilled water in a large bowl; holding squeeze bottle about two feet above bowl of water, gently squeeze small droplets of mango puree mixture into water (droplets should form "caviar" in water). Gently remove mango "caviar" from water with a strainer.

For the Armagnac sauce: In a saucepan, heat oil; add shallots and saute until translucent. Deglaze with wine and reduce to almost dry. Add duck stock; reduce by half. Whisk in foie gras fat and continue to simmer for about five minutes; add Armagnac and season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the port-apple puree: In a saucepan, melt butter; add apples and saute until tender. Add port and wine; simmer for about 15 minutes. Transfer to a blender and puree until smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the vegetables: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a small roasting pan, toss beets in olive oil and roast until just tender. Peel, thinly slice and season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside to cool. Toss radishes in cider vinegar and marinate for five minutes. Drain vinegar, season with salt and pepper to taste and set aside at room temperature.

For the foie gras: Season foie gras with salt and pepper to taste. In a hot pan, sear foie gras for three minutes on each side. Cover top surface of foie gras with kasha.

To serve: Spoon Armagnac sauce and port-apple puree onto plate and top with foie gras. Arrange vegetables around foie gras; add mango "caviar" and drizzle with balsamic vinegar.

Note: Recipe for mango "caviar" will yield approximately 12 servings.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

For the mango "caviar":

17 ounces mango flesh
6 ounces mango juice
1/2 ounce agar-agar powder
Small pinch of vitamin C crystals
Water, chilled, as needed

For the Armagnac sauce:

2 teaspoons sunflower oil
1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped
1/2 cup red wine
1 cup duck stock
1 teaspoon foie gras fat
1 teaspoon Armagnac
Salt and pepper to taste

For the port-apple puree:

1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 Golden Delicious apple, peeled, cored and thinly sliced
2/3 cup ruby port, reduced by half
1/3 cup red wine, reduced by half
Salt and pepper to taste

For the vegetables:

2 baby red beets
4 baby yellow beets
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 white radishes, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 ear heirloom corn, shucked, kernels cut off and blanched
2 ears baby corn, shucked, blanched and thinly sliced lengthwise
Salt and pepper to taste

For the foie gras:

2 3-ounce pieces foie gras
1/4 cup kasha
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Aged balsamic vinegar

RELATED ARTICLE: Lobster with Tomato Coulis and Tomato Sorbet (Serves 4)

DAVID BOULEY

Provence Rose

Commanderie de la Bargemone

Provence, France 2003

directions

For the almond milk: In a pot over low heat, warm milk and almond oil. Just before serving, froth using a hand-held immersion blender.

For the tomato sorbet: In a food processor fitted with the metal blade, combine all ingredients and puree until smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Pour into an ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside in freezer.

For the avocado and crab: Combine crabmeat, lemon juice, tarragon, chervil, olive oil and season with salt and pepper to taste, stirring to mix. Cut four 4-inch squares of plastic wrap and arrange about five slices of avocado on each square in a fan; place one tablespoon of crabmeat mixture in center of avocado; wrap avocado around crabmeat; twist the avocado into a tight ball, cutting off excess plastic. Set aside in refrigerator. Just before serving, remove remaining plastic wrap.

For the tomato coulis: Preheat a deep-fryer to 375 degrees. Pass Holland tomatoes through a food mill fitted with the fine screen. In a food processor fitted with the metal blade, add pureed tomatoes; gradually add oils while pureeing. Add sugar, raspberry vinegar, ginger juice and ground orange zest; season with salt and pepper to taste and pulse to combine. Transfer tomato coulis to a pot; warm over low heat. Score ends of cherry tomatoes and deep-fry for 10 seconds or until skins separate from flesh. Drain on paper towels and sprinkle with salt to taste. Pull skins up over stems, so they resemble wings. Set aside.

For the lobsters: Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Separate tails and claws from lobster bodies; cut underside of tail shell open lengthwise. In a hot pan, add oil and lobster tails; sear each side for one minute and transfer to oven; roast to desired doneness. Add claws to boiling water, cooking for four minutes. Remove meat from shells and season with sea salt to taste.

To serve: Ladle tomato coulis into a shallow bowl; layer slices of heirloom tomatoes and arrange lobster on top. Place avocado and crab next to lobster and drizzle with almond milk. Add a quenelle of tomato sorbet and garnish dish with lychee and gooseberry halves and sprinkle with lemon thyme.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the almond milk:

1 cup whole milk
1/4 cup almond oil

For the tomato sorbet:

1 cup tomato juice
6 plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded and roughly chopped
1 cup simple syrup
1/2 teaspoon sorbet stabilizer

For the avocado and crab:

6-ounces jumbo lump crabmeat
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Pinch of finely chopped tarragon
Pinch of finely chopped chervil
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 Hass avocado, peeled and thinly sliced widthwise
Salt and pepper to taste

For the tomato coulis:

4 Holland vine-ripened tomatoes, finely chopped
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons garlic-infused olive oil
2 teaspoons granulated sugar
2 teaspoons raspberry vinegar
2 teaspoons fresh ginger juice
1/2 teaspoon ground dried orange zest
4 cherry tomatoes
Salt to taste

For the lobsters:

4 1 1/4-pound Maine lobsters
2 tablespoons sunflower oil
Sea salt to taste

For the garnish:

Heirloom tomato slices
Lychees, peeled and halved
Yellow gooseberries, halved
Lemon thyme sprigs

RELATED ARTICLE: Sea Urchin and Trout Roe with Yuzu Sorbet and an Apple Cloud (Serves 10)

DAVID BOULEY

Dewosanson Nama Genshu Sake

Dewazakura

Yamagata Prefecture, Japan

directions

For the yuzu sorbet: Combine all ingredients, stirring well. Pour into an ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside in freezer.

For the apple cloud: In a pot, combine half of the apple juice and gelatin; heat, while stirring, until gelatin is dissolved. Stir into remaining apple juice and place in a whipped cream dispenser; charge with gas and chill in refrigerator for at least two hours. Shake well before using.

For the soy sauce gelee: In a pot, combine half of the soy sauce and gelatin; heat, while stirring, until gelatin is dissolved. Stir into remaining soy sauce and pour into dish so gelee is about 1/4-inch deep. Refrigerate until set.

For the soy milk gelee: In a pot, combine half of the soy milk and gelatin; heat, while stirring, until gelatin is dissolved. Stir into remaining soy milk and pour into dish so gelee is about 1/4-inch deep. Refrigerate until set.

For the yuzu gelee: In a pot, combine half of the yuzu juice and gelatin; heat, while stirring, until gelatin is dissolved. Stir into remaining yuzu juice and pour into dish so gelee is about 1/4-inch deep. Refrigerate until set.

For the sea urchin and trout roe: Gently combine sea urchin roe, trout roe and shiso leaves.

To serve: Using a spoon, scoop and layer soy sauce, soy milk and yuzu gelees into a martini glass or custom ice sculpture*. Add sea urchin and trout roe mixture, top with a scoop of yuzu sorbet and an apple cloud.

*For special occasions, Chef Bouley serves dishes in custom ice sculptures. Available through Okamoto Studio at [phone] or www.okamotostudionyc.com.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the yuzu sorbet:

1 cup yuzu juice
1/2 cup mineral water
1/2 cup simple syrup
1/2 teaspoon sorbet stabilizer

For the apple cloud:

1 cup freshly squeezed apple juice
1 3/4 sheets gelatin, softened

For the soy sauce gelee:

1 pint Japanese light soy sauce
4 sheets gelatin, softened

For the soy milk gelee:

1 pint plain soy milk
2 sheets gelatin, softened

For the yuzu gelee:

1 pint yuzu juice
1 1/2 sheets gelatin, softened

For the sea urchin and trout roe:

Roe of 5 sea urchins
5 ounces trout roe
3 shiso leaves, chiffonade

RELATED ARTICLE: Wild Striped Bass and Squid in Dashi (Serves 2)

DAVID BOULEY

Gruner Veltliner, Loss

Hiedler

Kamptol, Austria 2003

directions

For the wild striped bass: Season wild striped bass fillets with salt and pepper to taste and sprinkle with ground orange zest. Place fillets, thyme, bay leaf and olive oil in a vacuum-sealed bag. Place in a pot of 140 degree water, cooking for 20 minutes or to desired doneness. Remove fillets from bag before serving.

For the dashi: In a pot, combine water and konbu; simmer for 10 minutes. Remove and discard konbu; add bonito flakes, stirring, and return to a simmer. Remove from heat and let sit until bonito flakes sink to bottom of pot; strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Return dashi to a clean pot and bring to a simmer. Mix kuzu with one tablespoon of water and whisk into dashi; continue simmering for five minutes. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the squid and vegetables: In a saute pan, heat oil; add squid and saute until golden brown. Add fava beans and mushrooms to heat and season with salt and pepper to taste.

To serve: Place wild striped bass fillet on plate; ladle on the dashi and arrange squid and vegetables on plate. Garnish dish with a bay leaf.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the wild striped bass:

2 6-ounce fillets wild striped bass, cleaned
1/2 teaspoon ground dried orange zest
2 sprigs thyme
1 fresh bay leaf
1/2 cup olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the dashi:

1 pint water
1-ounce piece konbu
1 ounce bonito flakes
2 teaspoons kuzu*

For the squid and vegetables:

1 tablespoon sunflower oil
4 small squid, cleaned
1/4 cup fava beans, blanched
2 ounces hon shimcji mushrooms
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Fresh bay leaves

* Also known as Japanese arrowroot, a thickening agent from kuzu root. Available in Japanese markets.

RELATED ARTICLE: Butternut Squash Bombe with Green Tea Ice Cream  (Serves 6)

DAVID BOULEY

Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos

Royal Tokaji Wine Company

Tokaj, Hungary 1996

directions

For the butternut squash bombes: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a pot, add sugar and enough water to resemble wet sand; caramelize to a golden brown. Add butternut squash juice (Caution: be very careful as hot sugar may splatter with addition of juice); return to a boil and stir until caramelized sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat, strain through a fine-mesh sieve and chill in refrigerator. In a pot, heat one-third of the butternut squash mixture with gelatin until gelatin is dissolved; add remaining butternut squash mixture while stirring. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk, combine butternut squash mixture, honey and salt; whip on medium speed until cool and frothy. Place mixing bowl in an ice water bath and whisk until light and fluffy. Fill six flexible silicone 23/4-inch diameter bombe molds. Freeze for about 30 minutes; scoop out about a one-inch deep portion in middle of butternut squash bombe and refrigerate. In a pot, combine glucose and fondant; bring to a boil. Add Isomalt[R] and bring to 340 degrees; stir in spices and pour onto a Silpat[R]. Let spiced caramel cool and harden; break into pieces and place in a food processor fitted with the metal blade; pulse to fine powder. Sift onto a Silpat[R]-lined sheet pan and bake until melted. Remove from oven, use a 4-inch round cutter to cut into six 4-inch circles and set aside to cool in a dry place.

For the green tea ice cream: In a pot, combine milk, cream and trimoline; heat to 100 degrees. Add sugar, green tea powder, white chocolate, ice cream stabilizer and dry milk, stirring until combined. Whisk in egg yolk and bring to 180 degrees, while whisking constantly. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Set aside in an ice water bath until chilled. Pour into an ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside in freezer.

For the St. Marcellin sauce: In a double-boiler, combine simple syrup and tapioca flour; bring to 180 degrees. Stir in St. Marcellin cheese and return to 180 degrees, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and add fromage blanc; stir until incorporated. Add lemon juice. Pass through a tamis and set aside in refrigerator to chill.

For the ginger sauce: In a pot, combine sugar and water; bring to a boil. Whisk in agar-agar and return to a boil. Remove from heat, add ginger juice. Set aside in refrigerator to chill.

For the pumpkin seed brittle: In a pot, add sugar and enough water to resemble wet sand; caramelize to a golden brown. Remove from heat, stir in pumpkin seeds and pour on a Silpat[R]-lined sheet pan. Set aside to harden. Cover with a sheet of parchment paper and break into small pieces using a mallet.

To finish the bombes: Allow half of the green tea ice cream to soften and place in a piping bag fitted with a plain tip. Fill centers of bombes with ice cream and freeze for about 15 minutes. Unmold bombes, place spiced caramel circles over tops and melt onto surface of bombes using a torch (do not let bombes sit at room temperature).

To serve: Spoon St. Marcellin sauce onto plate and place bombe on top; drizzle with ginger sauce. Place a quenelle of green tea ice cream rolled in pumpkin seed brittle next to bombe and garnish dish with a fig half and Champagne grapes.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the butternut squash bombes:

1 ounce granulated sugar
9 ounces butternut squash juice*
3 sheets gelatin, softened
1 ounce sunflower honey**
Pinch of salt
2 ounces glucose
3 1/2 ounces fondant
1 1/2 ounces Isomalt [R] crystals***
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon ground clove

For the green tea ice cream:

1 cup whole milk
1 cup heavy cream
1 ounce trimoline****
2 ounces granulated sugar
1/4 ounce green tea powder
2 1/2 ounces white chocolate, melted
Pinch of ice cream stabilizer
Large pinch of nonfat dry milk
1 egg yolk

For the St. Marcellin sauce:

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons simple syrup
1 ounce tapioca flour
3 ounces St. Marcellin cheese
6 ounces fromage blanc
Juice of 1/2 lemon

For the ginger sauce:

2 ounces Japanese sugar*****
3 ounces water
1/2 teaspoon agar-agar powder
2 teaspoons fresh ginger juice

For the pumpkin seed brittle:

2 ounces granulated sugar
2 ounces pumpkin seeds, toasted and roughly chopped

For the garnish:

Figs, halved
Champagne grapes

* Use a juice extractor.

** Available through Haram-Christensen at [phone].

*** Isomalt is a sucrose-based sugar substitute. Available through Palatinit of America at [phone].

**** A liquid invert sugar used often in sorbets. Available through The Chef's Warehouse at www.chefswarehouse.com.

***** Available in Japanese markets. Turbinado sugar can be substituted.

RELATED ARTICLE: Trio of Parfaits (Makes 10 of each)

DAVID BOULEY

Moscato d'Asti, Moncalvina

Coppo

Piedmont, Italy 2002

directions

For the almond foam: In a blender, combine almonds and water; puree for one minute. Refrigerate for three days. Strain almond-water through a fine-mesh sieve (yielding approximately six ounces). In a pot, combine almond-water, cream, sugar and gelatin; heat until gelatin is dissolved. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and place in a whipped cream dispenser; charge with gas and chill in refrigerator for at least two hours. Shake well before using.

For the passion fruit creme: In a pot, combine puree, kaffir lime leaf, chili and zest; bring to a boil. Remove from heat and refrigerate for about 24 hours. Strain through a fine mesh sieve into a pot, add gelatin and heat until gelatin is dissolved, stirring well. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk, whip eggs until frothy. Add sugar while whipping until thick. In a double-boiler, combine passion fruit puree mixture and egg mixture; bring to 180 degrees, stirring constantly. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Set aside in an ice water bath until chilled. Pour in an ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions; use semi-frozen directly out of ice cream machine.

For the strawberries: Combine purees, water, simple syrup and lemon juice. Freeze, Scrape surface with a metal spoon or fork and return to freezer. Combine remaining ingredients and macerate in refrigerator until needed.

For the white chocolate mousse: In a bowl, whip the egg yolks and salt until light yellow and thick; add creme de cacao, rum and white chocolate, mixing until incorporated. Fold in whipped cream and set aside in refrigerator.

For the espresso granita: Combine espresso, sugar and gelatin, stirring until sugar and gelatin are dissolved. Freeze, Scrape surface with a metal spoon or fork and return to freezer.

For the banana toffee: In a pot, add sugar and enough water to resemble wet sand; caramelize to a golden brown; add water (Caution: be very careful as hot sugar may splatter with addition of water) and return to a boil and stir until combined. Add banana and cook until soft. In a food processor fitted with the metal blade, puree banana mixture until smooth; pass through a tamis. Set aside. In a pot, combine cream, milk and vanilla bean; bring to a boil. In a food processor fitted with the metal blade, combine banana mixture and cream mixture; puree until smooth and cooled. Just before serving, blend using a hand-held immersion blender.

For the meringue: In a bowl, add egg whites, sugar and citric acid; whisk until frothy and sugar is dissolved. Place in a whipped cream dispenser; charge with gas and chill in refrigerator. Shake well before using.

For the white chocolate flan: In a pot, add cream, milk and vanilla bean; bring to a boil. In a bowl, whisk egg yolks until smooth. Temper the egg yolks, by adding one-third hot cream mixture while whisking constantly. Whisk tempered yolks back into hot cream mixture and place over medium heat; bring to 180 degrees. Add gelatin and white chocolate; blend using a hand-held immersion blender until chocolate is dissolved. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Set aside in an ice water bath until chilled. Fill 10 small glasses half way with flan mixture and refrigerate until set.

For the green tea gelee: In a pot, combine water and agar-agar; boil for about 10 seconds. Remove from heat, let cool to 175 degrees and whisk in green tea powder until dissolved; steep for five minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and set aside to cool to room temperature (do not let set). Pour into glasses over set white chocolate flan. Refrigerate until gelee is set.

To serve: In a small glass, layer macerated strawberries, white chocolate mousse, strawberry granita and almond foam. In another small glass, layer banana toffee, passion fruit creme, espresso granita and top with meringue; brown meringue with a torch. Arrange white chocolate flan and green tea gelee on a plate with other two parfaits.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the almond foam:

5 ounces blanched almonds
12 ounces water
3 ounces heavy cream
1/2 ounce granulated sugar
1/2 sheet gelatin, softened

For the passion fruit creme:

6 ounces passion fruit puree
1 small kaffir lime leaf
1/2 dried chili pepper
Zest of 1/2 lime
6 sheets gelatin, softened
4 eggs
5 ounces granulated sugar

For the strawberries:

12 ounces strawberry puree
2 ounces raspberry puree
4 ounces water
3 ounces simple syrup
Juice of 1/4 lemon
10 ounces strawberries, stemmed and roughly chopped
1 ounce granulated sugar
Pinch of Oetker natural vanilla sugar*

For the white chocolate mousse:

2 1/2 ounces pasteurized egg yolks
Pinch of salt
1 ounce creme de cacao
1/2 ounce white rum
8 1/2 ounces white chocolate, melted
20 ounces heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks

For the espresso granita:

6 ounces espresso, hot
1 ounce granulated sugar
3/4 sheet gelatin, softened

For the banana toffee:

6 ounces granulated sugar
4 ounces water
1 ripe banana, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
4 ounces heavy cream
2 ounces whole milk
1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped

For the meringue:

3 egg whites
1 1/2 ounces granulated sugar
Pinch of citric acid

For the white chocolate flan:

6 ounces heavy cream
6 ounces whole milk
1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped
4 egg yolks
1 sheet gelatin, softened
8 ounces white chocolate, finely chopped

For the green tea gelee:

5 ounces water
1 teaspoon agar-agar powder
1 teaspoon green tea powder

* A vanilla flavored sugar sold in packets. Available at baking supply shops and European markets.

RELATED ARTICLE: Curried Veal Cheek with Tongue and Puffed Rice Salad (Serves 6)

GRAY KUNZ

Cor Romigberg

Alois Lageder

Alto Adige, Italy 1999

directions

For the veal tongue: In a pot, combine all ingredients (except oil). Bring to a simmer; cook for about three hours, until tongue is tender. Remove tongue from liquid and peel skin. Strain cooking liquid through a fine-mesh sieve and return tongue to liquid to cool.

For the veal cheeks: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a spice grinder, combine cumin, mustard, peppercorns, cardamom, one star anise, one clove, and half-stick of cinnamon; pulverize to a fine powder; mix with curry powder. Coat cheeks with spice mixture (reserve remaining spice mixture for later use) and flour; shake off excess. In a pan, heat half of the oil; sear cheeks until brown on all sides. In a deep pan, heat remaining oil; add bay leaf and remaining star anise, cloves and cinnamon stick; cook until fragrant. Add onions, celery, carrots, garlic, ginger, half of the lemongrass and half of the kaffir lime leaves; saute for three minutes; add reserved spice mixture and cook for an additional three minutes. Deglaze with white wine; reduce liquid by half. Add veal stock and a pinch of salt; bring to a boil and add veal cheeks. Return to a boil, cover and braise in oven for about two hours or until cheeks are tender. Remove cheeks from curry sauce and set aside. Reduce curry sauce by half; add remaining lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves; puree with an immersion blender and strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Season with salt to taste. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the celery root puree: In a pot, combine celery root, milk, bay leaf, kosher salt and sugar; bring to a boil over low heat; cook until celery root is very tender. Drain, reserving cooking liquid. Transfer celery root to a food processor fitted with the metal blade and puree, adding cooking liquid to achieve desired consistency. In a pan, heat oil. Add mustard seeds and toast until they begin to pop; drain and stir seeds into celery root puree. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the puffed rice salad: In a pan, heat oil. Add pineapple and saute until lightly caramelized. Toss pineapple with remaining ingredients and season with salt and cayenne pepper to taste.

To finish the veal tongue and cheeks: Prepare a hot grill. Cut veal tongue into 1/4-inch slices, brush with oil and season with salt and pepper to taste; grill, creating crosshatch marks. In a non-stick pan with a small amount of oil, saute veal cheeks until brown on all sides.

To serve: Spoon celery root puree onto plate; top with veal cheek, tongue slice and puffed rice salad. Drizzle curry sauce around dish and sprinkle with kaffir lime leaves.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the veal tongue:

1 veal tongue
1 onion, peeled and roughly chopped
2 ribs celery, roughly chopped
1 medium carrot, peeled and roughly chopped
1 bulb garlic, halved
1/2 bunch thyme
6 sprigs rosemary
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon salt
3 quarts water
Grapeseed oil for brushing
Salt and pepper to taste

For the veal cheeks:

1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 1/2 teaspoons red mustard seeds
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 brown cardamom pod
2 star anise
3 whole cloves
1 1/2 sticks cinnamon
1 tablespoon curry powder
All-purpose flour, as needed
1/4 cup grapeseed oil
6 veal cheeks, cleaned
1 bay leaf
1/2 onion, peeled and roughly chopped
1 small rib celery, roughly chopped
1 small carrot, peeled and roughly chopped
4 cloves garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
1-inch piece ginger, peeled and finely chopped
2 stalks lemongrass, crushed and finely chopped
16 kaffir lime leaves
3/4 cup white wine
1 quart white veal stock
Salt to taste

For the celery root puree:

1 1/2 pounds celery root, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
1 quart milk
1 bay leaf
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil
1 1/2 tablespoons red mustard seeds
Salt and pepper to taste

For the puffed rice salad:

1 teaspoon grapeseed oil
2 tablespoons finely diced pineapple
1/4 cup golden raisins, sauteed in butter
1/4 teaspoon curry powder
1/2 cup puffed basmati rice*
1 teaspoon dhana dal**
Zest of 1 lime
Pinch of ground pink peppercorn
1 sprig cilantro, stemmed and finely chopped
Salt and cayenne pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Kaffir lime leaves, chiffonade

* Also known as mamra. Available at Indian markets.

** Roasted coriander seed kernels. Available at Indian markets.

RELATED ARTICLE: Frog Legs Gratinee with Root Vegetables (Serves 4)

GRAY KUNZ

Meursault, Clos du Cromin

Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur

Burgundy, France 2000

directions

For the root vegetables: In a saute pan, melt two tablespoons of the butter and saute turnips for about three minutes (do not brown); add one-third of the chicken stock, cooking until tender. Add another tablespoon of butter and season with salt, pepper and sugar to taste. Repeat same process with radishes and beets separately. Set each aside, keeping warm.

For the glacage: In a pot, melt butter; add frog leg bones, shallots, leeks and garlic; saute until shallots are translucent. Deglaze with wine and reduce to almost dry. Add chicken stock, bring to a simmer and reduce by half. Add cream and reduce by half. Remove from heat and strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Return to heat and reduce to a sauce consistency. Season with salt, cayenne and white peppers to taste. Set frog leg sauce aside. In a bowl, whisk together egg yolks and lemon juice; place over a pot of simmering water and whisk continuously until thick and triple in volume. Gradually whisk in the clarified butter until emulsified. Set aside in a warm water bath.

For the frog legs: Season frog legs with salt and white pepper to taste, dredge in flour and toss in cream. In a saute pan, melt butter and saute frog legs until golden brown; add shallots and herbs and cook for about two minutes. Set aside, keeping warm.

To finish the glacage: Fold whipped cream and frog leg sauce into egg yolk emulsification. Preheat salamander. Arrange pieces of root vegetables in a circular pattern on serving dish; ladle glacage into dish to about 1/4-inch in depth. Place under salamander until golden brown.

To serve: Arrange frog legs in center of dish.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the root vegetables:

5 ounces butter
8 baby turnips, peeled and quartered
8 Easter Egg radishes, peeled and quartered*
8 baby Chioggia beets, peeled and quartered
1/2 cup chicken stock
Salt, pepper and sugar to taste

For the glacage:

2 tablespoons butter
Bones from frog legs
1 shallot, peeled and roughly chopped
1 leek, white part only, roughly chopped
3 cloves garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
1/4 cup white wine
1 pint chicken stock
1 cup heavy cream
2 egg yolks
1 tablespoon lemon juice
3/4 cup clarified butter, melted
1/2 cup heavy cream, whipped to firm peaks
Salt, cayenne pepper and white pepper to taste

For the frog legs:

24 frog legs, bones removed and used for glacage
All-purpose flour, as needed
3 tablespoons heavy cream
3 tablespoons butter
1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped chervil
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped chives
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped tarragon
Salt and white pepper to taste

* Available through Satur Farms at [phone].

RELATED ARTICLE: Langoustine with Fennel-Brandy Emulsion (Serves 6)

GRAY KUNZ

Clos de la Bergerie

Nicolas Joly

Loire Valley, France 2001

directions

For the fennel-brandy emulsion: Wrap claws in a towel and crush with a mallet. Transfer to a food processor fitted with the metal blade, add butter and blend until smooth. Set langoustine-butter aside. In a pot, heat grapeseed oil. Add fennel, carrots, celery root, leeks, celery, shallots, peppercorns, star anise and bay leaf; saute until leeks are translucent. Add langoustine-butter and tomatoes; cook for about three minutes. Deglaze with brandy and reduce liquid by half. Add chicken stock; simmer for ten minutes. Strain fennel-brandy through a fine-mesh sieve; reserve vegetables and fennel-brandy separately. Return vegetables to the pot, add cream and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for five minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve, discard vegetables and combine cream with fennel-brandy in a pot. Bring to a boil and season with salt, cayenne and white peppers to taste. Set aside, keeping warm. Just before serving add two tablespoons of fennel fronds and froth with a hand-held immersion blender.

For the langoustines: Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Arrange tail shells flat on a sheet pan and bake until pink in color. Set aside, keeping warm. Fold tail meat in half, season with salt and pepper to taste and coat top with crushed fennel seeds. In a saute pan over medium heat, add oil. Add langoustines, fennel-side down, and sear for about two minutes. Add butter; cook to desired doneness while basting.

To serve: Arrange langoustine in tail shell. Spoon frothed fennel-brandy emulsion around langoustine and sprinkle with leeks and tarragon.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the fennel-brandy emulsion:

Claws from langoustines
12 ounces butter, room temperature
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil
1/2 small fennel bulb, finely chopped, fennel fronds finely chopped
  and reserved
1/2 carrot, peeled and finely chopped
1/4 small celery root, peeled and finely chopped
1/2 leek, trimmed and thinly sliced
1/2 rib celery, finely chopped
1 shallot, peeled and thinly sliced
10 white peppercorns
1 star anise
1 bay leaf
4 plum tomatoes, finely chopped
2/3 cup brandy
1 1/2 cups chicken stock
3/4 cup heavy cream
Salt, cayenne pepper and white pepper to taste

For the langoustines:

6 langoustines, tail meat removed and deveined, tail shells reserved
2 tablespoons crushed fennel seeds
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil
3 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Leek, diced and blanched
Tarragon, stemmed and roughly chopped

RELATED ARTICLE: Short Rib Tartlette, Cured Bay Scallops, Pink Lentil-Crusted Chicken Wing (Makes 6 of each)

GRAY KUNZ

Weissburgunder Spatlese Trok

R. Furst

Franken, Germany 1998

For the pickled papaya: In a pot, bring sugar and vinegar to a boil. Remove from heat, add papaya and transfer to a container. Pickle in refrigerator for at least one day. Set aside for use in short ribs.

For the short ribs: In a spice grinder, combine allspice, cloves, black peppercorns, coriander, bay leaf, Szechuan pepper and cinnamon; pulverize to a powder. Season short ribs with salt to taste and rub with spice mixture. Refrigerate for about 30 minutes. Prepare a hot grill. Grill ribs on all sides (do not burn the spices) and place in a small hotel pan. In a food processor fitted with the metal blade, combine tamarind, ginger, garlic, brown sugar, Worcestershire[R], tomatoes, tomato paste and pickled mango; puree until smooth. Set aside one cup of the tamarind mixture in refrigerator for later use; pour remaining mixture over short ribs and marinate in refrigerator for about eight hours. Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Braise short ribs until tender, about three hours. In a pot, heat oil; saute onions until translucent. Add reserved cup of tamarind mixture and reduce by half. Add pickled papaya and the pickling juice to taste. Stir in herbs and butter and season with salt and pepper to taste. Remove bones from short ribs and cut meat into cubes to fit into tartlette shells. Combine short rib cubes and tamarind sauce and set aside, keeping warm.

For the Meaux mustard mayonnaise: In a pan, heat one teaspoon of the oil; saute shallots until translucent. Deglaze with wine and reduce to almost dry. Add mustard seeds and set aside to cool. In a bowl, whisk egg yolk, Meaux mustard, lemon juice and shallot mixture until thick. Gradually add remaining oil while whisking constantly to form a smooth and thick mayonnaise. Season with salt, cayenne and black peppers and sugar to taste.

For the hot and sour glaze: In a pan, caramelize sugar. Add vinegar and reduce by one-fourth. Add ginger, lemongrass, chili sauce and season with salt and cayenne pepper to taste; cook for one minute. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the chicken wings: Preheat deep-fryer to 350 degrees. Remove tips and one bone from chicken wings; push meat and skin down to expose remaining bone. Combine lentils with spices and sea salt to taste; coat chicken wings. Deep-fry until golden, crisp and cooked through. Set aside.

For the cured bay scallops: Combine all ingredients except seaweed salad and season with salt to taste; stir gently to combine. Set aside to marinate.

For the tarragon aioli: In a bowl, whisk egg yolk, garlic, mustard and vinegar until thick. Gradually add oils while whisking constantly to form a smooth and creamy aioli. Stir in tarragon and season with salt, cayenne pepper and sugar to taste.

To serve: For the short rib tartlette, spoon a small dollop of grits into tartlette; top with short rib cube and drizzle with tamarind sauce. Garnish with horseradish, fried taro, green onion and top with a dab of Meaux mustard mayonnaise. For the bay scallops, pack crushed ice into a ring mold and arrange a bed of seaweed salad on ice; top with scallop shell and spoon scallops and marinade into shell; place a dab of tarragon aioli on top. Sprinkle with sel gris, black and cayenne peppers. Place chicken wing on plate and drizzle hot and sour glaze over top.

Note: The Meaux mustard mayonnaise and tarragon aioli recipes will yield approximately one cup each.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

For the pickled papaya:

1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup white vinegar
1/4 small green papaya, peeled and finely chopped

For the short ribs:

1/4 teaspoon allspice berries
1/4 teaspoon whole cloves
1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1/2 small bay leaf
1 Szechuan pepper*
1/4 stick cinnamon
1 pound short ribs
1 tablespoon tamarind paste, softened with water and seeds removed
1/2-inch piece ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
2 tablespoons light brown sugar
2 teaspoons Worcestershire[R] sauce
6 ounces canned diced tomatoes
1/2 teaspoon tomato paste
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped pickled mango**
2 teaspoons grapeseed oil
1/4 small onion, peeled and finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped chervil
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped chives
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped tarragon
2 teaspoons butter
1/4 cup cooked grits, seasoned and hot
6 tartlette shells***
Salt and pepper to taste

For the Meaux mustard mayonnaise:

3/4 cup grapeseed oil
1/2 shallot, peeled and finely chopped
1 tablespoon white wine
1 teaspoon red mustard seeds, toasted
1 egg yolk
1 teaspoon Meaux mustard
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Salt, cayenne pepper, black pepper and sugar to taste

For the hot and sour glaze:

1/3 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup sherry vinegar
1/2-inch piece ginger, peeled and finely chopped
2-inch piece lemongrass, finely chopped
2 tablespoons Thai sweet chili sauce****
Salt and cayenne pepper to taste

For the chicken wings:

6 chicken wings
1 ounce pink lentils, ground*****
1/2 teaspoon Szechuan peppers, ground*
1/2 teaspoon aleppo pepper******
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Sea salt, finely ground, to taste

For the cured bay scallops:

1/4 red pepper, seeded and finely diced
1/2 Thai chili, seeded and finely diced
1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon Noble Sour P.X.*******
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped tarragon
12 bay scallops, julienned
3 pickled ramps, 1/4 cup pickling juice reserved
3/4 cup seaweed salad********
Salt to taste

For the tarragon aioli:

1 egg yolk
1/2 small clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
1/2 cup grapeseed oil
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon stemmed and finely chopped tarragon
Salt, cayenne pepper and sugar to taste

For the garnish:

Fresh horseradish, peeled and finely julienned
Taro, peeled, finely julienned and deep-fried
Green onion, sliced on bias
Sel gris*********
Black pepper, freshly ground
Cayenne pepper

* A berry native to Szechuan, China, also known as anise pepper or Chinese pepper. Available at Asian markets.

** Available in South East Asian markets.

*** Available through Sijans at [phone].

**** Available through Asia Market at [phone].

***** Available through Foods of India at [phone].

****** A Turkish crushed chili. Available through Foods of India at [phone].

******* Available through Gegenbauer at www.gegenbauer.at.

******** Available at Japanese markets in the refrigerated or prepared foods section.

********* Available through Fresh and Wild at [phone].

RELATED ARTICLE: Fluke with Chives and Caramelized Green Onions (Serves 4)

GRAY KUNZ

Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Loibenberg

Emmerich Knoll

Loibner Loibenberg, Austria 2002

directions

For the fluke: Finely chop one tablespoon of chives and set aside. Trim fillets into equal sized pieces, reserving eight ounces of scraps. Set fillets aside in refrigerator. In a chilled food processor fitted with the metal blade, add fluke scraps and egg whites; puree to a smooth paste. While pureeing, slowly add cream. Pass mousse through a tamis; fold in chervil and chopped chives and season with salt, cayenne pepper and black pepper to taste. Season fluke fillets with salt, cayenne pepper and black pepper to taste. Spread mousse evenly over skin-side of one fillet; top with other fillet, placing thick part of fillet over thin part to achieve an even thickness. Repeat with remaining two fillets. Cut each into two even portions; brush with egg wash; arrange a single layer of chives across each portion, trimming chive ends with scissors. Set aside, keeping chilled.

For the green onions: Thinly slice green onions lengthwise to create a fan. In a pot with boiling water, add sugar; blanch green onions for one minute; drain. In a non-stick pan, heat oil; add green onions and saute until caramelized. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside, keeping warm.

To finish the fluke: In a non-stick pan over medium heat, add oil. Gently saute fluke, starting on chive-side, until mousse is cooked through.

To serve: Lay a green onion on plate; layer with fluke and another green onion.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the fluke:

1 bunch chives
1 2 1/2-pound fluke, filleted and skinned
4 egg whites, chilled
1/4 cup heavy cream, chilled
2 tablespoons finely chopped chervil
Egg wash, as needed
2 tablespoons grapeseed oil
Salt, cayenne pepper and black pepper to taste

For the green onions:

8 green onions, white parts only, root ends removed
2 cups boiling water
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil
Salt and pepper to taste

RELATED ARTICLE: sea trout and Leeks with Tarragon-Soy vinaigrette (Serves 4)

GARY KUNZ

Vintage Tunina

Vinnaioli Jermann

Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy 2001

directions

For the sea trout and leeks: Cut the fillet into 1/4-inch wide strips; alternately arrange four sea trout strips with four leek halves on a cutting board. Trim ends of sea trout so they are even with leeks; repeat to make four servings.

For the tarragon-soy vinaigrette: Combine all ingredients and season with salt, pepper and sugar to taste; stir well.

To serve: Transfer sea trout and leeks to dish. Drizzle with vinaigrette and sprinkle with radish, ginger, lemon zest and sel gris.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the sea trout and leeks:

1 10-ounce fillet Tasmanian sea trout, filleted and skinned
8 baby leeks, blanched in salted water and halved lengthwise

For the tarragon-soy vinaigrette:

2 teaspoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar
2 teaspoons thyme leaves
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons grapeseed oil
Salt, pepper and sugar to taste

For the garnish:

Breakfast radish, finely julienned
Ginger, peeled and finely julienned
Lemon zest, finely julienned
Sel gris*

* Available through Fresh and Wild at [phone].

RELATED ARTICLE: Truffle Veloute with Truffle Ravioli (Serves 6)

GRAY KUNZ

Tokay Pinot Gris, Grand Cru Bruderthal

Domaine Gerard Neumeyer

Alsace, France 2001

directions

For the truffle ravioli: In a medium bowl, mix together flours, egg, water and a pinch of salt until just combined. Transfer dough to a lightly-floured work surface and knead until smooth, about 10 minutes. Cover dough with plastic wrap and set aside to rest for a minimum of two hours. In a pan, heat oil; add shallots and truffles and saute until shallots are translucent. Deglaze with port and reduce to almost dry. Remove from heat and cool. Combine with butter, parsley and chervil and season with salt, cayenne and black peppers to taste. Divide into 12 even portions and freeze. Divide pasta dough into four pieces and roll each through a pasta machine, starting on the thickest setting and finishing on the second to thinnest setting. Brush pasta sheet with egg wash and evenly distribute 6 frozen truffle portions, leaving about 2 1/2 inches in between; cover with another sheet of pasta and press over filling, pushing out air bubbles; cut into small raviolis with a fluted cutter. Repeat with remaining sheets of pasta. Set aside on a lightly-floured sheet pan.

For the truffle veloute: In a pan, heat oil; add shallots and truffles and saute until they pop. Deglaze with port and reduce to almost dry. Add stock; reduce by half. Add cream and simmer for about five minutes. Stir in butter and season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside, keeping warm. Just before serving, froth using a hand-held immersion blender.

For the fleurette: Preheat deep-fryer to 325 degrees. Cut brik dough into six rounds using a 2-inch diameter fluted cutter. Dip two two-ounce metal ladles into hot oil to heat, remove and place a brik round into the ladle, place second ladle over top and deep-fry until golden brown. Drain on paper towels.

To finish the truffle ravioli: Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Add ravioli and simmer until cooked. Remove from heat and drain.

To serve: Ladle truffle veloute into two small espresso cups; top one with a fleurette and a ravioli and place another ravioli in the second cup. Spoon veloute foam over ravioli and garnish with chervil and truffles.

Note: Pasta dough recipe will yield approximately 32 small ravioli.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the truffle ravioli:

8 ounces all-purpose flour, sifted
1 1/2 ounces semolina flour, sifted
1 egg
1 ounce water
1 teaspoon grapeseed oil
1/2 shallot, peeled and finely chopped
1/2 small truffle, finely chopped
1 ounce ruby port
3 ounces butter, softened
1 sprig parsley, stemmed and finely chopped
1 sprig chervil, stemmed and finely chopped
Egg wash, as needed
Salt, cayenne pepper and black pepper to taste

For the truffle veloute:

2 teaspoons grapeseed oil
1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped
1 truffle, finely chopped
3 ounces ruby port
8 ounces chicken stock
6 ounces heavy cream
2 ounces butter
Salt and pepper to taste

For the fleurette:

1 sheet brik dough*

For the garnish:

Chervil sprigs
Truffle, finely chopped

* Available through Dairyland at [phone] or Kalustyan's at [phone].

RELATED ARTICLE: Pecan Mille-Feuille with Bourbon Caramel (Serves 4)

GRAY KUNZ

Beerenauslese Cuvee

Alois Kracher

Illmitz, Austria 2002

directions

For the grenadine zest: In a pot of boiling water, blanch zest, rinse and blanch again in fresh water. Simmer zest in grenadine until dark red in color; drain and rinse with water. Lay zest on several layers of paper towels and dry until hard; finely chop and set aside in a dry place.

For the puff pastry: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Dust both sides of puff pastry with powdered sugar, reserving excess powdered sugar. Place on a half sheet pan between two Silpats[R]; top with another half sheet pan. Bake for 10 minutes; remove top sheet pan and transfer Silpats[R] to a flat surface; using a rolling pin, flatten puff pastry. Remove top Silpat[R], cut into 3-inch squares and sprinkle with powdered sugar. Return to sheet pan, top with another Silpat[R] and sheet pan; bake until golden brown. Remove top sheet pan and Silpat[R] and set aside to cool.

For the pecan filling: Preheat oven to 325 degrees. In a bowl, combine cake flour, sugar, corn syrups, eggs and vanilla seeds from one bean; whisk until smooth. Add butter and bourbon; mix until incorporated. Divide pecans and filling between six flexible 3-ounce rectangular cake molds; bake until filling has risen and starts to fall. Set aside to cool; remove from molds and cut in half. Set aside. Whip creme fraiche with vanilla seeds from remaining bean until fluffy; put half in a pastry bag fitted with a plain tip and set aside, keeping cool.

For the bourbon caramel: In a pot, add sugar and enough water to resemble wet sand; caramelize to a dark brown. Add remaining water and stir to combine (Caution: be very careful as hot sugar will splatter with addition of water). Let cool and add bourbon to taste. Set aside at room temperature.

To serve: Alternately layer puff pastry, pecan filling and piped vanilla-creme fraiche; repeat to create three layers and top with another piece of puff pastry. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and place on plate. Spoon raisins around mille-feuille and drizzle with bourbon caramel. Garnish dish with caramelized sugar, grenadine zest and a quenelle of vanilla-creme fraiche.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the grenadine zest:

Zest of 1 orange, julienned
3 tablespoons grenadine

For the puff pastry:

1 17 X 12-inch piece puff pastry, rolled to 1/8-inch thickness
1/4 cup powdered sugar

For the pecan filling:

3 tablespoons cake flour
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 cup light corn syrup
1/2 cup dark corn syrup
4 eggs
1 1/2 vanilla beans, split and scraped
2 tablespoons butter, melted
2 tablespoons bourbon
1 cup roughly chopped pecans
3/4 cup creme fraiche

For the bourbon caramel:

1 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup water
Bourbon to taste

For the garnish:

Powdered sugar
Raisins, soaked in Jack Daniels[R]
Caramelized sugar, crushed

RELATED ARTICLE: Chilled Quince Soup (Serves 6)

GRAY KUNZ

Rose Champagne

Paul Goerg

Champagne, France NV

directions

For the almond tuile: Preheat oven to 325 degrees. In a bowl, mix butter and sugar until smooth. Add glucose and incorporate. Add flour and almonds; whisk until smooth. Spread teaspoons of batter into 4-inch circles on a Silpat[R]-lined sheet pan. Bake until golden brown. Remove from oven and while still warm, shape into cones using a cone-shaped dowel. Set aside to cool.

For the quince soup: Peel and core quinces, reserving flesh, skin and cores; split cores lengthwise; cut 24 1/4-inch thick star shapes from flesh, reserving scraps. In a pot, combine skin, cores, sugar, vanilla bean, lemon juice and water; bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until reduced by one-fourth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a pot; add flesh scraps (not the stars) and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until flesh and liquid turns red in color. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve, reserving flesh, and chill soup in an ice water bath. Transfer flesh to a food processor fitted with the metal blade and puree until smooth. Cook the quince stars in a small amount of the soup until tender. Set aside to cool. (If necessary, adjust the flavor of the soup and puree with lemon juice and/or sugar).

For the quince granita: Freeze about two cups of the soup in a shallow pan. Scrape surface into shavings with metal spoon or fork and return to freezer.

To serve: Place a dollop of puree in soup bowl and pour soup around puree. Stand almond tuile cone with granita in puree and sprinkle with lime zest. Arrange stars in soup.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the almond tuile:

1/3 cup butter, softened
1/3 cup granulated sugar
2 teaspoons glucose
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons ground almonds

For the quince soup:

10 medium quinces
1 cup granulated sugar
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
Juice of 1 lemon
1 gallon water
Pinch of salt

For the garnish:

Lime zest

RELATED ARTICLE: Sea Bream with Gazpacho (Serves 4)

ANDY NUSSER

MARIO BATALI

Cigales

Traslanzas

Cigales, Spain 2000

directions

For the gazpacho: In a bowl, combine tomatoes, cucumbers, onion and piquillo peppers; season with salt to taste and refrigerate for about eight hours. Transfer to a blender and puree until smooth; strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Season with vinegar, salt and cayenne pepper to taste. Set aside, keeping cool. Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Toss bread with enough oil and paprika to coat. Place on a sheet pan and bake until golden and crisp; set aside to cool. Just before serving, toss together Sungold tomatoes, Kirby cucumber and croutons; season with oil, vinegar and salt to taste.

For the pickled pearl onions: In a pot, combine spices, bay leaf, vinegar and sugar; bring to a boil and remove from heat; add onions and set aside to cool. Remove onions from pickling liquid and quarter; return to liquid until needed.

For the sea bream: Season fillets with salt and pepper to taste. In a saute pan, heat oil; add fillets skin side down and saute until flesh is just cooked.

To serve: Pour gazpacho into bowl; arrange tomato-cucumber mixture, top with sea bream fillet and pickled pearl onions. Garnish with sea beans and sparklers.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the gazpacho:

4 ripe tomatoes, halved
2 cucumbers, peeled and sliced
1 red onion, peeled and finely chopped
4 piquillo peppers, roughly chopped
1/2 loaf day-old country bread, cut into 3/4-inch cubes
Extra virgin olive oil, as needed
Spanish paprika, as needed
1 cup Sungold tomatoes, halved lengthwise*
1 Kirby cucumber, thinly sliced
Sherry vinegar to taste
Salt and cayenne pepper to taste

For the pickled pearl onions:

1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 bay leaf
1 1/2 cups red wine vinegar
1/4 cup granulated sugar
12 pearl onions, peeled, trimmed and blanched
Salt to taste

For the sea bream:

4 8-ounce sea bream fillets, cleaned
3 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Sea beans
Sparklers***

* An orange cherry tomato known for its sweetness.

** Thin threads of dried red pepper, available through DaVero Ingredienti at www.davero.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: Grilled Baby Octopuses with Fennel (Serves 4)

ANDY NUSSER

MARIO BATALI

Albarino Do Ferreiro

Do Ferreiro

Rias Baixas, Spain 2003

directions

For the black olive oil: In a blender, combine olives and oil; puree until smooth. Set aside.

For the baby octopuses: Prepare a hot grill. Coat octopuses in oil and season with salt and pepper to taste; grill until lightly charred.

For the fennel: Toss together all ingredients and season with salt and pepper to taste.

To serve: Pile fennel on plate and arrange octopuses on top; garnish with grapefruit and fennel fronds. Drizzle dish with black olive oil.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the black olive oil:

8 oil-cured black olives, pitted
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

For the baby octopuses:

16 baby octopuses, cleaned and blanched
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the fennel:

2 fennel bulbs, trimmed and thinly shaved
Juice of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Grapefruit segments
Fennel fronds

RELATED ARTICLE: Grilled Razor Clams (Serves 4)

ANDY NUSSER

MARIO BATALI

Les Brugueres

La Conreria D'Scala Dei

Priorat, Spain 2003

directions

For the razor clams: Prepare a hot grill. In a bowl, combine parsley, garlic, lemon juice and oil; season with salt and pepper to taste. Grill clams until they open; remove from heat and top with parsley mixture; arrange on plate and serve.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the razor clams:

1 bunch parsley, stemmed and roughly chopped
6 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
Juice of 2 lemons
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
16 razor clams
Salt and pepper to taste

RELATED ARTICLE: Duck Egg Sunny-Side Up with Mojama (Serves 4)

ANDY NUSSER

MARIO BATALI

Lo Givot

Celler del Pont

Priorat, Spain 2001

directions

For the truffle vinaigrette: In a bowl, add vinegar; slowly add oil while whisking until emulsified. Add remaining ingredients, season with salt and pepper to taste and stir well. Set aside.

For the fingerling potatoes: In a pot of boiling salted water, cook potatoes until just tender. Drain, cool and cut in half. In a saute pan, heat oil; add potatoes and saute until golden brown. Toss with some of the truffle vinaigrette and season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the duck eggs and mojama: In a non-stick pan, cook duck eggs sunny-side up; season with salt to taste. Thinly slice mojama.

To serve: Pile potatoes on plate and lay duck egg over top; drizzle with remaining truffle vinaigrette. Arrange mojama slices on dish and sprinkle with black pepper.

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ingredients

For the truffle vinaigrette:

1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 canned truffles, finely chopped
1/4 small red onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
Salt and pepper to taste

For the fingerling potatoes:

1 pound fingerling potatoes
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the duck eggs and mojama:

4 duck eggs
4 ounces mojama*
Salt to taste

For the garnish:

Ground black pepper

* A salted and sun-dried tuna loin commonly found in the southern provinces of Spain. Available through Despana Brand Foods at [phone] or www.despanabrandfoods.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: Fried Anchovies (Serves 6)

ANDY NUSSER

MARIO BATALI

L'Hereu, Cava Brut

Raventos i Blanc

Cava, Spain NV

directions

For the fried anchovies: Rinse anchovies and soak in water for about eight hours; drain and pat dry. In a pot, heat oil to 375 degrees. In a bowl, combine flour and Cava, mixing well. Dip anchovies into batter and gently place in hot oil; fry until golden brown. Drain on paper towels and sprinkle with salt to taste; stack fried anchovies on plate and serve.

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ingredients

For the fried anchovies:

2-pound can of salt-packed anchovies
Extra virgin olive oil, as needed
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 bottle Cava sparkling wine
Salt to taste

RELATED ARTICLE: Churros and Chocolate (Makes 36 churros)

ANDY NUSSER

MARIO BATALI

Tintilla De Rota, Solera Reserva

Emilio Lustau

Jerez, Spain NV

directions

For the chocolate: In a pot, heat cream; stir in chocolate mix until incorporated. Set aside.

For the churros: Preheat deep-fryer to 365 degrees. In a pot, combine water, butter, sherry and salt; bring to a boil. Using a wooden spoon, stir in flour until a tacky dough forms. Transfer dough to a piping bag fitted with a large star tip. Pipe batter into oil and deep-fry until golden brown; drain on paper towels and roll in cinnamon and sugar to coat; stack churros on plate and serve with chocolate.

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ingredients

For the chocolate:

2 1/2 pints heavy cream
2 cups Wicked Hot Chocolate mix*

For the churros:

1 pint water
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon sweet sherry
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups all-purpose flour
Ground cinnamon and sugar for dusting

* Available through Jacques Torres Chocolate at [phone] or www.mrchocolate.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: Buttermilk Onion Rings with Homemade Ketchup (Serves 8)

DAVID PAGE

BARBARA SHINN

directions

For the homemade ketchup: Preheat salamander.

Toss onions in olive oil and broil until charred on both sides. In a heavy-bottom, non-reactive pot, combine charred onions with remaining ingredients. Simmer over low heat for about two hours until thick; stirring and scraping bottom every 15 minutes. Transfer ketchup to a blender in batches and puree until smooth. Cool in refrigerator.

For the onion rings: Preheat deep-fryer to 360 degrees. Soak onion rings in an ice water bath for one hour, until crisp. Drain and pat dry. Toss onion rings in buttermilk and soak for about two minutes. Working in batches, coat onions with flour and deep-fry until golden and crisp. Drain on paper towels and season with crushed spices and salt and pepper to taste.

To serve: Pile onion rings on a plate and serve with homemade ketchup.

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ingredients

For the homemade ketchup:

1 large onion, peeled and sliced 1/2-inch thick
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
3 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar
5 cloves garlic, peeled
2 tablespoons capers in brine
2 tablespoons Tabasco[R]
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin, toasted
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander, toasted
1/2 teaspoon ground mustard seeds, toasted
1/4 teaspoon mild paprika
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
42 ounces canned whole tomatoes
12 ounces tomato paste
Kosher salt to taste

For the onion rings:

4 Vidalia onions, peeled and sliced 1/4-inch thick
3 cups buttermilk
All-purpose flour, as needed
1 tablespoon crushed cumin seeds, lightly toasted
1 tablespoon crushed coriander seeds, lightly toasted
1 tablespoon crushed mustard seeds, lightly toasted
Kosher salt and pepper to taste

RELATED ARTICLE: Three Cheese Macaroni (Serves 4)

DAVID PAGE

BARBARA SHINN

Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon

Shinn Estate Vineyards

North Fork, Long Island, NY 2003

directions

For the three cheese macaroni: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a pot, melt butter; saute onions until translucent. Add flour and stir; cooking until a blonde roux forms. Add evaporated milk while whisking constantly and add spices and salt and pepper to taste. Stir in cheeses and continue cooking until melted. Combine cheese mixture with macaroni; stirring well. Spoon macaroni and cheese into a buttered 12-inch skillet, sprinkle with breadcrumbs and bake until golden brown and bubbling.

To serve: Garnish with tomato wedges and sprinkle with parsley.

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ingredients

For the three cheese macaroni:

1/4 cup butter
1 yellow onion, peeled and finely chopped
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 quart evaporated milk
1/2 teaspoon mild paprika
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
3/4 cup grated sharp white cheddar cheese
3/4 cup grated Wisconsin Asiago*
3/4 cup grated aged Monterey Jack
1 pound elbow macaroni, cooked
1/2 cup breadcrumbs
Kosher salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Roasted tomato wedges
Parsley, stemmed and roughly chopped

* Available through Murray's Cheese at [phone] or www.murrayscheese.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: Homemade Salami with Picked Vegetables (Serves 8)

DAVID PAGE

BARBARA SHINN

'Young Vines' Merlot

Shinn Estate Vineyards

North Fork, Long Island, NY 2002

directions

For the homemade salami: Combine pork, salt and saltpeter; mix well. Transfer to a plastic container and cover the surface of the pork with plastic wrap; cover with a lid and refrigerate for seven days. Mix cured pork with remaining ingredients except casings. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for one hour. Using a meat grinder fitted with the large die, grind pork mixture. Transfer to a sausage stuffer fitted with the medium nozzle. Place casings over nozzle and fill with pork mixture, tying off every 12 inches. Tie each salami from one end on a dowel with enough space between so that they do not touch each other. Dry in refrigerator for approximately 14 days or until dry and hard. The salami can be brushed with olive oil and stored in refrigerator for several weeks. Let salami come to room temperature before serving. Cut into 1/4-inch thick slices.

For the pickled vegetables: In a pot, heat oil; add onions, carrots and celery; saute until vegetables are soft. Add bay leaf, thyme, garlic, olive oil, vinegar, water, lemon juice and season with salt and pepper to taste; simmer for about 30 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Place artichoke hearts, cipollini onions and carrots in a bowl and add pickling liquid; cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

To serve: Arrange salami slices and pickled vegetables on plate; top with slices of Gruyere, watercress and a sprinkling of parsley.

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ingredients

For the homemade salami:

2 1/2 pounds pork shoulder or pork butt, cut into 1-inch cubes
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon saltpeter*
2 tablespoons peeled and finely chopped ginger
2 tablespoons peeled and finely chopped garlic
2 teaspoons yellow mustard seeds
2 teaspoons coarsely ground black pepper
2 tablespoons light corn syrup
3 to 4 feet medium sausage casing, rinsed in water

For the pickled vegetables:

1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1/2 onion, peeled and roughly chopped
1/2 carrot, peeled and roughly chopped
1 rib celery, roughly chopped
1/2 fresh bay leaf
2 springs thyme
2 small cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1 cup olive oil
1 cup white wine vinegar
1 cup water
Juice of 3 lemons
8 artichoke hearts, cooked
8 cipollini onions, peeled and blanched
4 carrots, peeled, blanched and cut on the bias
Kosher salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Wisconsin Gruyere, sliced**
Watercress sprigs
Parsley, stemmed and roughly chopped

* A dry cure mixture can be substituted. Available through The Sausage Maker, Inc. at [phone] or www.sausagemaker.com.

** Available through Murray's Cheese at [phone] or www.murrayscheese.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: Coffee-Cured Duck "Ham" Sandwich (Makes 4 sandwiches)

DAVID PAGE

BARBARA SHINN

Reserve Merlot

Shinn Estate Vineyards

North Fork, Long Island, NY 2002

directions

For the coffee-cured duck "ham": Mix together coffee, salt, sugar and zest; spread half of the cure mixture in a dish just large enough to hold the duck breasts. Score skin of duck breasts and place skin side down into cure mixture and cover with remaining cure mixture; cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 48 hours. Rinse cure from duck and pat dry. In a saute pan over low heat, cook duck breasts skin side down until golden brown and fat is rendered. Turn over and cook to desired doneness. Remove from heat and let rest for about 10 minutes. Thinly slice and set aside.

For the orange aioli: In a pan, reduce orange juice to two tablespoons and cool. In a small bowl, whisk the egg yolk, garlic, vinegar, mustard, reduced orange juice and lemon juice until thick. Gradually add oil while whisking constantly to form a smooth and creamy aioli. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside, keeping cool.

To serve: Spread aioli onto slices of bread; layer cipollini onion, duck "ham" and arugula and top with a slice of bread; cut sandwich in half. Serve with fried shoestring potatoes.

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ingredients

For the coffee-cured duck "ham":

1 cup freshly ground coffee
1/2 cup kosher salt
1/2 cup granulated sugar
Zest of 2 oranges
4 duck breasts

For the orange aioli:

1/2 cup fresh-squeezed orange juice
1 egg yolk
2 cloves garlic, roasted and mashed
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1 cup vegetable oil
Kosher salt and pepper to taste

For the sandwich:

8 slices rosemary sourdough bread, grilled
8 cipollini onions, blanched, smoked, peeled and roughly chopped
1 bunch arugula, stemmed

For the garnish:

Fried shoestring potatoes

RELATED ARTICLE: Chocolate Pudding (Serves 8)

DAVID PAGE

BARBARA SHINN

directions

For the chocolate pudding: Preheat oven to 325 degrees. In a pot, bring the cream to a simmer; remove from heat. In a bowl, combine chocolate and one cup of the hot cream; let sit for a few minutes and stir in remaining cream. In a bowl, whisk together egg yolks, sugar, vanilla extract and salt until smooth. Gradually whisk chocolate mixture into yolk mixture and strain through a fine-mesh sieve; skim foam. Pour into eight 6-ounce ramekins and bake in a hot water bath covered tightly with foil for about 50 minutes or until edges are set (center should still jiggle). Remove from oven and water bath and cool. Chill in refrigerator.

To serve: Top pudding with a dollop of whipped cream and garnish with chocolate shavings and an orange segment.

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ingredients

For the chocolate pudding:

1 quart heavy cream
5 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
6 egg yolks
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Pinch of salt

For the garnish:

Whipped cream
Chocolate shavings
Orange segments

RELATED ARTICLE: Goat Cheesecake with Raspberry Sauce (Makes one 10-inch cake)

DAVID PAGE

BARBARA SHINN

directions

For the goat cheesecake: Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Tightly wrap outside of a 10-inch spring form pan with aluminum foil. In a bowl, combine granola and butter; mix well, breaking up chunks. Press into bottom of spring form pan and bake for 10 minutes; remove from oven and cool for 30 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 250 degrees. In a bowl, mix together goat cheese curd, sugar, cream, sour cream and lemon zest. Add eggs one at a time, stirring until incorporated. Set aside in refrigerator. Fill pan with cheesecake mixture, tap on counter and let stand for 10 minutes to allow air bubbles to rise to surface. Bake in a hot water bath with water halfway up side of pan for one hour. Reduce oven temperature to 190 degrees and continue baking until only a small area of the cake's center jiggles slightly when shaken. Remove from oven and cool at room temperature. Chill in refrigerator for about two hours.

For the raspberry sauce: Combine all ingredients and let sit for one hour.

To serve: Place a slice of cheesecake on plate and garnish with raspberry sauce.

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ingredients

For the goat cheesecake:

2 cups granola
3 ounces unsalted butter, melted
3 pounds goat cheese curd*
15 ounces granulated sugar
12 ounces heavy cream
4 1/2 ounces sour cream
Zest of 1 lemon
9 eggs

For the raspberry sauce:

1 pint raspberries
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
Juice of 1 lemon

* Available through Coach Farms at [phone].