Waiting for Maroc.

Morocco is a place of contradictions: of light and dark, luxury and despair, obedience and unrest. Where the solemn desert floor greets vibrant tile facades and water is a luxury. To the north, the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea cap the fertile coast. To the south, the Atlas Mountains peak at Mount Toubkal then plummet 14,000 feet, sliding into the Western Sahara. Climate extremes mean life and death. Somewhere, between the spectrum of myth and reality, is Morocco. An observer for only a week, seven days was barely enough time for the awe to subside. Morocco reveals itself in many ways; curvaceous sand dunes, tiny cove in the walled market place painted with fresh blood from a butcher's block, the weathered lines of an old woman's face. From a distance it's easy to romanticize the mystique of Morocco. In truth, it is a puzzle for the sense, tactile and alive--overwhelming so.

After shuffling through immigration, baggage claim, and customs, the large glass doors of the Mohammed V Airport slide back, unveiling a slab of foreign faces cloaked in silence. Through the swaths of silk and coiled turbans emerge mocha skin and coffee bean eyes. In a brief moment, one thing is clear: no matter the modest ensembles, no matter the absence of tennis shoes, or the presence of a Moroccan guide--there will be no anonymity. Chins tucked in, we follow Mustapha's lead through the maze. Mustapha is our sage through Morocco. Though he was educated in the United States and loves his American citizenship, Mustapha has the soul of a Moroccan. His childhood memories and former life in Morocco proved a bottomless well from which to draw. However, the barrier remained. We enjoyed our piggyback ride on the heels of a native son whose ambitions flourished in America and are restored by his country's culinary heritage. Mustapha overlooks the obvious poverty in his country to celebrate what Moroccans share most graciously and without complaint-their food.

Mustapha at the helm--Americans in tow, we dodge oncoming traffic, past rows of grubby horses sagging under carriages and dive into the abyss of the Marrakech market place. Place Djemaa el-Fna swarms with people. Solicitations and open fists are thrust forward with every camera flash. Dancing dwarfs and fire breathers part the converging crowds. The commotion of outdoor food stalls auctioning their goods fills the air with thick smoke, dry spice, and diesel. The smells and sounds of Marrakech follows me to bed. Dawn commences with the morning call to prayer--broadcast over a loud speaker. The monotone hymns sail past the doors of the mosque, over empty streets and city buildings to where I lay. Though haunting, the sound is moving. I try to imagine what the singer implores. How many knees touch the ground? How many children crouch, droopy eyed, contemplating sleep. For several nights, I rose and slept to this hypnotic song.

Islamic ideology resounds in every aspect of Moroccan life. It has been a part of Moroccan culture since the 600s when Arabs brought Islam to the Berber tribes of maghreb, "the west." Muslim rule emerged by way of Arab and Berber fundamentalists, extremely devout and conservative. The Moors, as they were known, ruled Morocco and much of Muslim Spain and Europe by the tenth century. Their beliefs inspired the geometri patterns employed in mosaic tile designs and latticework on building exteriors; godly images are strictly forbidden. During this time, Andalusian culture, art, and architecture blossomed. Calligraphy of the Arabic language, colorful pottery of Spanish descent, and rich textiles are all highly decorative examples of the Spanish-Muslim heritage. In fact, the two main influences in Morocco history are of Arab and Spanish descent. The French became part of Morocco's most recent history. Having occupied the country from the early 1900s, the French contributed much in the way of education; today, French is spoken as naturally as Arabic. As a result, Moroccans are multilingual, speaking Arabic, French, and Spanish, fluently, though French is the language of business. After centuries of political struggle and cultural homogenizing, Morocco achieved independence in 1956. Autonomy now established, a youthful King in place, this third world country discovers its identity--one separate from its kinship with the Middle East, Spain, and France.

"And he will take your daughters to be confectionaries, and to be cooks, and to be bakers." Genesis 40:2

It's no secret, women rule the kitchens of Morocco. Because of extremes in poverty and wealth, those who work in the kitchen greatly outnumber those who don't. As such, Moroccan cuisine is born of a subculture. Moroccan cuisine has emerged and been passed down through generations of women. The executive chefs of elite hotels may not be female, but rest assured, a vast majority of the meals prepared are by Moroccan women. "The law of abundance" rules culinary etiquette. Moroccans are notorious for preparing exorbitant banquets. Meals begin with a hand washing ceremony--an extravagant display considering the value of water. At first, small plates with pickled vegetables, olives, and bread arrive. Tender carrots marinated in cinnamon, roasted beets in vinaigrette, and fried eggplant are all good. Pigeon soup with chickpeas, silky and warm goes unusually well with sesame and honey covered fritters. Gradually the table fills. Multitudes of courses, as many as twenty-seven, arrive. Mound after mound of couscous, tagines, bisteeyas, lamb, chicken, and fish is served and cleared, with perhaps only a spoon sized portion removed. In a country of so much poverty, the excess at the table is astounding. All is washed down with mint tea--a highly sweetened beverage made freshly and with flourish. Most Moroccan dishes are derivatives of a thirteenth century manuscript, which documents the country's culinary history. As in most countries, families and regions personalize the recipes to suit their means. Perhaps the biggest difference between Moroccan and European cuisine is found in the cooking techniques. Moroccans make efficient use of heat and water, a precious commodity in the desert climate. Meat, fish, or chicken dishes are placed in tagine vessels with spices, aromatics, and a mere spoon of water. When placed in the hot coals of the public ovens overnigtht, the A frame lid of the tagine pot enables moisture to circulate in the form of steam and condensation, keeping the dish moist. Sauces are not prepared with stocks made from a separate ration of bones, as in the European kitchen, but rather the entire cut of meat or fish is stewed until cooked. The resulting cooking liquid is simmered, seasoned, and served as the accompanying sauce. The basics of Moroccan cooking are simple though its ingredients and cooking techniques are time consuming. The Moroccan pantry is filled with familiar ingredients, but they are prepared in unusual ways. Having many of the staples on hand, makes for more efficient cooking.

Moroccan Pantry

Argan oil is highly prized in Southern Morocco for its nutty flavor. Extracted from the argan tree, the oil is used for cooking. Mixed with honey and almond paste, it makes a popular breakfast spread known as amalou.

Couscous is the staple starch of Morocco. Smeeda or large grain semolina flour is the grain of choice to make couscous. Though available prepackaged, labor intensive, handmade couscous is often found in the restaurants and homes of Morocco. Packaged couscous is best prepared by rinsing the grains in cold water. The couscous is covered with three times its volume. of water and set aside in a large, shallow bowl to swell for 10 minutes. The grains are stirred manually to separate any clumps and transferred to a cheesecloth-lined couscousiere, or metal colander. over a hot water bath to steam for 20 minutes. The couscous is transferred to a large, shallow bowl and sprinkled with cold water. The couscous is stirred lightly with oiled hands to separate the grains and set aside to dry for 10 minutes. The couscous is returned to the prepared couscousiere to steam for 10 minutes before serving.

Doqq or preserved lemons are, along with olives, the most distinctive ingredient in Moroccan cuisine. The small variety of doqq or boussera lemons is especially good for salt preserving. American varieties are a suitable substitute.

Beldi is a type of chicken. Though tender when young, the chicken is often butchered after many valuable egg-laying years. The meat, which is much less tender, is ideal for the long slow cooking of a tagine. In addition to having a firm texture, the flavor is more robust, not unlike Rhode Island Red chickens.

Gum Arabic is harvested from the bark of acacia trees. As the sap dries, it hardens into tiny opaque beads and is used as a flavoring, coloring, and thickening agent in dessert preparations.

Harissa is a condiment of dried red chilies, garlic, and oil. It is used to flavor skewered meats, fish, couscous, and vegetables. Though prepared harissa is available, many cooks prepare harissa to suit their own tastes.

Honey is used liberally in many preparations. The Spanish ruled region of Melilla in northern Morocco produces thick herbal honey.

Kosbour or fresh coriander appears minced in everything from salads to tagines.

Ma Ward or rose water is an extract of rosebuds from the central plains of the Dades Valley. Rosewater is used to perfume pastries and some beverages.

Nigella are tiny teardrop-shaped seeds with a slightly tannic flavor. They are used to season and decorate many savory dishes. The seeds are inhaled to relieve congestion.

Olives are the cornerstones of Moroccan cooking. Both cured and pressed for their oil, olives are available by the moundful. The three best known varieties are; tangy cracked green olives soaked in a salt brine, delicate tan or violet olives, and sharp, dry-cured, black olives. Many restaurants prepare their own olive cure.

Ras el Hanout is a combination of spices made to suit the taste of the cook. The highly aromatic mix may include nutmeg, rosebuds, turmeric, allspice, gingerroot, lavender, and aniseed, though the mix is as varied as the taste of the cook. Ras el hanout is used to flavor a variety of dishes.

Sheriya are vermicelli-like noodles used much like rice. The noodles are steamed three times before they are added to a dish.

Smen includes a wide variety of seasoned butters used to season pans. Though most are mild in flavor, some Moroccan cooks prefer to use aged smen; a 1-7 year old preserved butter has an obvious pungent character not unlike the blue cheeses of Europe or the oyster sauces of Southeast Asia.

Tangia pots and recipes are a specialty of Marrakech. The broad terra cotta urns are filled with meat, usually lamb, spices, and aromatics. At the end of the day the prepared urns are brought- to the public ovens and placed in coals still hot from the day of baking bread. Overnight the meat stews at about 200 degrees.

Warka pastry sheets are made of water and flour. The paper-thin yet pliable leaves are used in both savory and sweet preparations of bisteeya, trid, and for many breakfast pastries. Phyllo dough, strudel leaves, or feuille de brik are all suitable substitutes.

Za'atar is an herbal hybrid not unlike thyme, marjoram, or oregano in aroma and flavor. It is very different from the prepackaged mixture of thyme and sumac that also bears the 'za'atar' name.

Zhaar or orange flower water is an extract of the Bergamot orange tree. It is used with rosewater or on its own to perfume pastries and beverages.

Warka

For the warka:

(Makes 40 8-inch leaves)

4 cups bread flour

Warm water as needed 

Note: Warka pastry leaves are a staple in Morocco. Like the phyllo and strudel doughs of Europe, making the dough is an acquired skill that takes most Moroccans years to master. When making the pastry leaves, the extremely pliable dough should be kept in continuous motion in your hand. Feuille de brik or phyllo dough is a suitable substitute. Prepared warka leaves are available through Fattal's at [phone]

For the warka, place the flour in a large, shallow bowl. Slowly add the water by hand, kneading in between each addition until a soft, tacky dough forms. Continue to add water while kneading in an up-and down pawing motion. Remove a piece of the dough, dip it in the water; and knead it back into the dough. Continue to pull the dough until it can be stretched 12 inches high, about 10 minutes. Place enough water to cover the surface of the dough. Cover with a cloth. Set aside to rest for three hours.

To finish the warka, bring a saucepan of water to a boil and maintain at a simmer. Invert a large saucepan over the saucepan, lightly rub with oil, and wipe clean with a cloth. Remove the cloth from the dough, using wet hands, and take a small piece of dough in one hand, roll it in a circular motion from the wrists. Lightly tap the dough ball several times against the hot saucepan to form a large circle. The dough will dry quickly and easily peel off the pan. Transfer the cooked sheet to a parchment-lined sheet pan, cover with a damp cloth, and set aside. Repeat with the remaining dough.

Mint Tea

1 1/2 tablespoons gunpowder tea 

1 bunch mint, stems on

1/2 cup sugar cubes 

Note: Tea service is a large part of Moroccan food etiquette, often prepared with ornate silver pots and colorful classes. Mint is not to be stemmed to keep the leaves from clogging the teapot spout. Sugar is always added with a generous hand, it is a sign of luxury. Conical shapes of sugar were once part of a girl's dowry.

For the tea, in a medium teapot, rinse the tea with 1/4 cup of hot water to remove any impurities or bitterness and drain. Cover the rinsed tea with mint and sugar. Cover with 16 ounces of hot water and set aside to steep for five minutes.

To serve, pour the tea from high above the glasses to aerate and amplify the character of the tea and garnish with mint.

Preserves Lemon

5 small lemons Kosher salt as needed

Note: Preserved lemons can be stored for up to one month prior to use. Once opened, the lemons will keep in the refrigerator for about two months.

For the preserved lemons, in a large bowl, submerge the lemons in water and set aside overnight. Drain the lemons and transfer to a cutting board. Using a sharp paring knife, make a deep cut halfway through the lemons and coat liberally with salt. Place in an airtight container and set aside at room temperature for two weeks. Rinse lightly in water before use.

Boujemaa Mars

The grandam of Moroccan hotels; Everybody has stayed here: Winston Churchill, Franklin D. Roosevelt, General Charles de Gaulle, Charlie Chaplin, Omar Sharif, Nelson Mandela. It is a hotel for history makers. Designed in the early 1920s, the hotel exemplifies Moroccan tradition and the Art Deco verve of the era in which it was built. Expanded from its original one hundred room capacity, the hotel has doubled in size. The twenty acre gardens-a wedding gift from Sultan Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdellah to his son some two hundred years ago, account for much of La Mamounia's grounds. The property is an orchard of orange, lemon, banana, and palm trees. Heady roses, fuchsia bougainvillea, and hibiscus perfume the pebble paths. A vegetable and herb garden supplies the gourmet kitchen. Thirty-four full time gardeners devote their attention to the maintenance and grooming of the on premise Eden. The grand hall of the hotel is home to a mini-art gallery including an antique collection of jewelry and silver utensils, modern sculpture, and paintings by the modish Polish artist Tamara de Lempicka.

The hotel provides four restaurants, one of which, Le Marocain, offers a traditional Moorish setting amidst pastel walls detailed with ornate carvings. Though a luxury hotel by any standards, the recipes of Le Marocain are prepared in a traditional manner. Executive Chef Boujemaa Mars oversees all food production at the hotel. Originally from Souss, a small town at the foot of the Atlas mountains, Executive Chef Mars was encouraged by his math teacher to pursue cooking, citing that it would provide an ideal opportunity to travel and study abroad. In 1957 Mars attended the first hotel school in Morocco, L'Ecole Hoteliere de Rabat. Like most things Moroccan, at the time, the cuisine he studied was French, as were the school's instructors. His apprenticeship of three years was spent in Casablanca, also under French chefs. Armed with a battery of European culinary skills, Mars accepted a commis de cuisine position at the La Mamounia in 1962. He worked his way up the ladder over the years and, just as his teacher predicted, found opportunities to travel and learn in France and Norway. In 1978 he became the Executive Chef of La Mamounia, overseeing all four of the hotel's food outlets. Though his training is steeped in European technique, Mars is committed to the traditions of regional Moroccan cuisine. Included on his menu is tangia, an heirloom recipe in which lamb shanks seasoned with cumin, saffron, nutmeg, and ginger are placed in a fat, terra cotta urn and cooked overnight in the coals of the public ovens. Though he has reached great heights of success in his native Morocco, his dream is to share these customs with chefs abroad.

Fatna Kotni

Walking the length of a dimly lit corridor is like passing through time. The passage gives way into a marble courtyard. We stare at the sky and it stares back at us. The bubbling fountain juggles fragrant roses. Several parlors enclose the candlelit gathering place. In 1830 the Dkaier family filled their home with friends and relatives. Among those who cared for the home was a woman known to the children as Dar Marjana, so named for the precious red stone she wore about her neck. As the years passed, the home became the family's coveted jewel. Today, though the family no longer lives in the house, the narrow alley, candlelight, and gurgling fountain remain. Low sitting tables, strewn with crimson rose petals and cobalt blue sequence beads welcome guests to dinner. The geometric lanterns dangle from twenty foot ceilings casting freckled light across the room. Silk pillows of turquoise and gold elevate the banquettes. Dar Marjana, once a private treasure has become a gilded experience for all who share her hospitality. The restaurant has built a reputation as providing not only one of the most beautiful settings, but also one of the best meals in Marrakech.

Much like the Dar Marjana namesake, Fatna Kotni is revered as the surrogate dar marjana by the red clad wait-staff who tease her relentlessly. Her hands are amazingly smooth for a woman who labors for hours every day in the kitchen. Her touch with spice is gentle. Like many of Morocco's finest, Fatna Kotni has no formal culinary training, only years of experience in a family kitchen. In 1981, while attending a friend's dinner party, Mr. Chaouqui Mohammed Dkaier sampled Kotni's dishes. So impressed by the meal was he that he hired her to cook for his family's new restaurant. Kotni has served traditional favorites of Marrakech including, trid, a labor intensive layered dish of stewed pigeon and handmade warka pastry dough leaves. Her vegetable studded couscous arrives in a straw tagine called a tbak, which sits like a tableside footstool. Though the private home has been opened to the public, the family's warm welcome and cuisine are graciously shared with visitors.

Aziz Sakan

It is perhaps one of the most impressive doorways in Morocco, the marble entry flanked by two fountains. A rich display of hand painted pottery and, of course, mosaic tiles, cover every wall, hallway, and floor throughout the hotel. A former estate of the Jamai family, the hotel now provides some of the finest accommodations with panoramic views of ancient Fez. Though the construction and management style are incredibly European the Al Fassia restaurant is quintessential Moroccan. Low to the floor banquets in rich blue velvet, a bevy of downy red and blue pillows for post-meal-reclining, and the unmistakable scent of fresh rose petals are all native custom.

Chef Aziz Sakan facilitates the Moroccan restaurant, one of several at the hotel. Unlike many chefs in Morocco who begin as part of a household staff, Chef Sakan, grew up in a well-to-do family on the outskirts of Fez. His family kitchen, like so many, was always filled with female cooks. Sakan spent hours watching and learning from the women. Though he dreamed of opening his own restaurant in the United States, he was unable to attain the required visas and paperwork. Instead, he chose to travel and work abroad in India, Pakistan, Spain, and Luxembourg. After thirteen years at Palais Jamai, he still maintains a healthy travel itinerary, opting to represent the hotel abroad in order to teach the cuisine of his homeland.

Kaltoum el Abbadi

Blue is the color of Fez. Elaborate zellij mosaics abound with cobalt blue tiles, as do the interiors of many lavish homes in the medina of Fez. Built in 1915, La Maison Bleue was originally constructed as the private residence to Mohammed El Abbadi, noted judge, astrologer, and consultant to His Majesty King Mohammed V. In the central courtyard of this grand home is a zellij style wall fountain-a house warming gift from the King to his favorite nobleman. The hand crafted tile mosaics are one of several traditions that remain on the changing face of Moroccan family life. Today, many of the private homes in cosmopolitan Morocco welcome guests inside in order to preserve their heritage.

La Maison Bleue restaurant is such a tribute. In 1994, the family decided to transform the home into a restaurant to support the family home and food culture. After eighty years, the El Abbadis opened its doors to dinner guests. Meals are prepared by Kaltoum El Abbadi using recipes from a 13th century literary volume, that documents Moroccan cuisine. The book outlines butchering techniques and cooking methods. Though some modern conveniences have been added for the sake of efficiency, the kitchen remains traditional in nature. Appliance like pressure cookers and food processors are not used, only time-honored techniques, most of which require lengthy preparations.

Like most young girls in Morocco, Kaltoum El Abbadi, spent many years in the family kitchen observing the preparation of daily meals. The dishes, which appear at La Maison Bleue, are similar to those grand dishes once served at family gatherings. Dinner at the restaurant involves a generous procession starting with a series of small plates. House cured olives and vegetables dressed with Moroccan oil, preserved lemons, and herbs are served family style to be sopped up with wedges of fresh bread. A collection of tender lentils, carrots and cinnamon, roasted beets, fried eggplant and onions, and warm potatoes quickly fill the table. Once the table is cleared, large tagines of lamb or beef, or chicken, or all three arrive with the omnipresent peak of steaming couscous. Though Kaltoum El Abbadi enjoys preparing these traditional dishes, she cooks as though for family, often taking personal requests, "I love when a guest comes in and says, 'I have a craving for...' it allows me to welcome them into my home."

Fatima Sahmoudi

On most afternoons, Dar Saada is a place where tourists escape the congestion of the market to sit down and lunch on an authentic Moroccan meal. Away from the foot traffic vendors squatting over their wilted greens or leading mangy donkey carts, Dar Saada is an oasis in the heart of Fez. Though popular with many large tourist groups, the food comes from the heart of Chef Fatima Sahmoudi. "I learned everything I know from my mother and grandmother," Sahmoudi says with pride. "Without them I would be nothing." Like so many young Moroccan girls, Sahmoudi learned to cook from her grandmother, mother, and aunts who gathered in the morning to prepare daily meals. She enjoyed learning and knowing about the culinary arts by word of mouth and hand. Though she admires the culinary schools, which train young students to become chefs, she maintains tradition is a powerful teacher, "The culinary arts are very old, you can never learn as much in school as you can from your family and with your heart."

As one of the women who prepared meals of the Benamour household, Sahmoudi understands well the value of a presenting dish to a guest. After years of working on Mr. Benamour's house staff, she became the main cook at Dar Saada. For twelve years Sahmoudi has prepared her own preserved lemons and warka pastry, a task many women save for the town bakers. She prefers to make the paper-thin crepes each day on her table top griddle. The importance of preparing these sheets by hand is a matter of time-honored tradition. She also continues to make jobne, a homemade cow's milk cheese served as a fresh spreadable cheese and as a sliceable aged cheese.

The popularity of Dar Saada has encouraged Mr. Benamour to tackle a second project, The Hotel Arabesque. In the able hands of Mounia, the General Manager, this unique hotel-house just "steps" away from the famed Palais Jamai provides a more charming and intimate portion of Moroccan hospitality.

Hassan Kamal

Constructed in 1930 by Lord Bute, the El Minzah Hotel was built to reflect the Moorish style of Tangier. The convex wall of windows at El Korsan restaurant overlooks the Straits of Gibraltar. Just outside, a stairway plummets into the tightly bound market place in old town--the same streets which inspired painter Henri Matisse during his stays in the early 1900s.

The maze of stalls at the open fish market--one of Morocco's best even though it's not geared towards tourists, provides a valuable insight into the daily life of a Moroccan cook. Each day, women, children, and men fill the streets to shop for the main meal in the afternoon. Executive Chef Hassan Kamal can be found strolling among the fish purveyors during his afternoon break from the El Minzah Hotel, where he oversees the six different food outlets ranging from international cuisine to regional favorites. Chef de Cuisine Achmed Abboudi is entrusted with the task of preparing the traditional Moroccan menu at the El Korsan restaurant. Both chefs work side by side, graciously sharing their spotlight in the kitchen. On the hotline a battalion of white jackets surround several prepared dishes and scrutinize the final plating of each. There is a great sense of enthusiasm. "Usually, we are not visited by journalists," reveals a fellow staff member. "They go to Marrakech, Fez, and Essaouira."

Though it may not be first on everybody's list, Tangier is filled with a gentile spirit. Its close proximity to Spain, and Europe in general, make for an interesting combination. Tapas bars, paella dishes, and fish preparations make their influence known. Like its sanguine Spanish neighbor, Moroccans sport a mean sweet tooth. Among the country's many food specialties is an endless array of pastries, which incorporate succulent oranges and creamy almond paste. Cookies of coco, mluza, and kab el ghzal, and the Moroccan dessert staple, bisteeya are mainstays at the end of the meal or with afternoon tea.

Chaariya Medfouna Boujemaa Mars

(Serves 4)

For the squab:

5 1/2 ounces unsalted butter, diced

2 tablepoons vegetable oil

4 boneless squab, quartered

5 onions, peeled and chopped

1 sprig parsley

3 threads saffron

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon gum arabic[*]

Water as needed

Salt, white pepper, and nutmeg to taste

For the chaariya:

1 pound dried vermicelli, broken into 1-inch pieces

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1/2 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened

For the garnish: Ground Cinnamon Confectioners' sugar 

Note: Chaariya are short thin noodles, similar to vermicelli. Traditionally noodles are steamed and rinsed three times before being used in a dish. Available through Kalustyan's at [phone].

(*.) Gum arabic, also known as meska, is the sap from an almond tree. The tiny beads are used as a flavoring and thickening agent. Available from Vanns Spices LTD. at [phone].

For the squab, in a medium saucepan, melt the butter and oil over medium heat. Add the squab, onions, parsley, saffron, cinnamon, ginger, and gum arabic and saute until golden brown. Season and add enough water to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until tender, about one hour. Remove from the heat, using a slotted spoon, transfer the squab to a bowl, and reserve keeping warm Strain the cooking liquid through a fine medium saucepan ver medium heat. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until reduced by half, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the squab meat, and set aside keeping warm.

For the chaariya, prepare a hot steamer. In a medium, shallow pan, combine the vermicelli and half the oil and toss to coat. Place the pan in the steamer for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the remaining oil, and toss to coat. Place in the steamer and continue to steam for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool completely. Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil. Add the vermicelli and simmer until tender, about two minutes. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Transfer the vermicelli to a medium bowl, add the butter, and set aside keeping warm.

To serve, spoon some vermicelli onto the center of a large deep plate. Spoon some squab on top and cover with the remaining vermicelli. Spoon some sauce around the dish and garnish with cinnamon and sugar.

Chicken "Beldi" Trid Boujemaa Mars

(Serves 4)

For the chicken:

10 1/2 ounces sea salt

4 1/2 pounds boned Rhode Island Red chicken meat [*]

2 large onions, peeled and thinly sliced

2 springs cilantro, stemmed and chopped

Pinch of saffron threads

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

5 1/3 ounces unsalted butter, diced

2 ounces vegetable oil

Pinch of gum arabic [**]

2 cups water

Salt, pepper, and ginger power to taste 3 10-inch warka leaves [***]

1/4 cup melted butter

For the dish: Ground cinnamon

Note: Trid is considered the poor man's bisteeya. "Beldi" refers to an older, free range, country chicken. Many chickens are kept for their eggs. Because of its age, the meat is tougher and more flavorful but requires low-slow cooking techniques.

(*.) Rhode Island Red chickens are a traditional breed of poultry and are similar in flavor to the Beldi chickens. Available through Stone Church Farms at [phone].

(**.) Gum arabic, also known as meska, is the sap from an almond tree. The tiny beads are used as a flavoring and thickening agent. It comes in small round pellets and is available from Vanns Spices LTD. at [phone].

(****.) See page 21 for recipe. Prepared warka leaves are available through Fattal's at [phone].

For the chicken, in a large bowl, rub the chicken with the salt to coat. Rinse thoroughly under cold running water, pat dry and set aside. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the chicken, onions, cilantro, saffron, cinnamon, butter, oil, gum arabic, and water to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until tender, about one hour. Remove from the heat and using a slotted spoon, transfer the chicken to a cutting board, and reserve the cooking liquid. Remove the bones and discard. Transfer the chicken meat to the saucepan, season, and reserve keeping warm.

To assemble, preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Arrange some warka in a large round cake pan, and spoon some of the chicken on top. Repeat with the remaining warka, to form two more layers. Drizzle with butter and place in the oven until warmed through, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and reserve.

To serve, place a slice of chicken trid onto a plate and sprinkle with cinnamon.

Tangia Marrakchia Boujemaa Mars

(Serves 4)

For the tangia

3 1/2 pounds lamb shanks, rinsed

3 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

2 teaspoons ground cumin

3 threads saffron

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1 whole nutmeg

Rind from 1 preserved lemon, Sliced[*]

1/4 cup olive oil 

1/2 cup water

Salt, white pepper, and nutmeg to taste

Note: Tangia pots and recipes are a specialty of Marrakech. The broad terra cotta urns are filled with meat, usually lamb, spices, and aromatics. The tangia employs the same cooking technique as the tajine, using low heat and little water. Most tangia are cooked overnight in the coals of the public ovens. Tangia pots are avail able through Artisan Workshop LLC at [phone].

(*.) See page 21 for the recipe. Available through Haddouch Gourmet Imports at [phone].

For the tangia, preheat the oven to 375 degrees. In an earthenware jar, combine all of the ingredients and season. Cover with aluminum foil and place in the oven until very tender, about six hours. Remove from the heat and serve.

Squab Trid with Horseradish Seeds

Fatna Kotni

(Serves 6)

For the trid:

6 squab

1 onion, peeled and diced

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper 

1/4 teaspoon chopped ginger

1/4 teaspoon of saffron powder

1 stick cinnamon

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

4 10-inch warka leaves [*]

For the dish:

Nigella seeds [**]

Horseradish seeds [***]

Note: Trid is considered the poor man's bisteeya.

(*.) See page 21 for recipe. Prepared warka leaves are available through Fattal's at [phone].

(**.) Nigella are tiny black seeds with a slightly tannic flavor. They are used to season and decorate many savory dishes. Available through Vanns Spices LTD. at [phone].

(***.) Available through Oh Nuts! At [phone].

For the trid, in a medium saucepan, bring all of the ingredients to a boil, reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 45 minutes or until tender. Remove from the heat and set aside keeping warm.

To assemble, preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Spoon the squab mixture into a tajine and cover. Arrange the warka leaves on top. Sprinkle with nigella and horse radish seeds, cover with the tagine lid, and place in the oven until the sauce is reduced by half, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside keeping warm.

To serve, spoon some squab and warka leaves onto a plate.

Lamb and Cardoon Tagine with Preserved Lemons

Fatna Kotni

(Serves 4)

For the lamb:

3 1/2 pounds boned lamb shoulder, diced

1 onion, peeled and diced

6 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

1 quart water

Salt and pepper to taste

For the cardoons:

2 bunches cardoons, peeled, halved, and reserved in acidulated water 

Juice of one lemon

1 cup water

1 teaspoon ground ginger

3 threads saffron

1/2 cup vegetable oil

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon salt

For the dish: Preserved lemon strips[*]

Oil cured green olives

(*.) See page 21 for recipe. Available through Haddouch Gourmet Imports at [phone].

For the lamb, in a medium saucepan over high heat, bring all of the ingredients to a boil. Reduce the heat, and simmer until tender, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat, season, and set aside keeping warm.

For the cardoons, in a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine all of the ingredients and mix to combine. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for one hour, or until tender. Remove from the heat and set aside keeping warm.

To finish the tagine, preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Spoon the lamb into the center of a tagine and arrange the cardoons on top. Place in the oven until warmed through, about 15 minutes.

To serve, spoon some preserved lemon and olives on top of the tagine.

Braised Squab Bisteeya

Fatna Kotni

(Serves 4)

For the bisteeya:

3 1/2 ounces unsalted butter, diced

3 squab, quartered

6 small onions, peeled and finely chopped

1-inch piece ginger, peeled and minced 3 threads saffron

3 cups water

1 bunch cilantro, stemmed and chopped

1 bunch parsley, stemmed and chopped

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

1 cup granulated sugar 

12 eggs

1/2 pound blanched almonds, toasted and chopped

For the dish:

6 8-inch warka leaves [*]

Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Ground cinnamon

Granulated sugar

(*.) See page 21 for recipe. Prepared warka leaves are available through Fattal's at [phone]

For the bisteeya in a large saucepan melt the butter over medium heat. Add the squab, onions, ginger, saffron, and water. Bring to a simmer, and maintain the heat for 30 minutes, or until reduced by half. Remove from the heat. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pigeons to a cutting board and return the saucepan to medium heat. Remove and discard the squab bones and reserve the squab meat. Add the cilantro, parsley, cinnamon, and sugar to the cooking liquid. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for five minutes. In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs until smooth. Temper the eggs adding 1/3 of the hot liquid while whisking constantly. Add the eggs, squab meat, and almonds to the saucepan and maintain at a simmer until warmed through. Remove from the heat, season, and set aside to cool.

To assemble the bisteeya, preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Arrange three sheets of warka in a deep round cake pan coated with non-stick spray, allowing the edges to drape over the sides of the pan. Spoon the pigeon filling in the center and fold the edges in Arrange two sheets of warka on top and tuck in the edges. Place the bisteeya in the oven to bake for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat brush liberally with melted butter and return to the heat until golden brown. Remove from the heat and set to cool slightly.

To serve, place a slice of bisteeya on a plate and sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar.

Chicken Tagine with Fresh Almonds

Aziz Sakan

(Serves 6)

For the chicken:

6 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt

3 small chickens, quartered

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

2 threads saffron

1 teaspoon turmeric

1/2 bunch parsley, chopped

1 cinnamon stick

2 1/2 ounces unsalted butter, softened

5 cups water

2 onions, peeled and thinly sliced

1 pound fresh almonds, shelled

Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish: Chopped parsley

Note: The tagine cooking vessel is prized for its use of low heat and little water, a precious commodity in the desert climate. The ingredients, spices, and aromatics are placed in the tagine with a mere spoonful of water. When placed in the hot coals of the public ovens overnight, the A frame lid enables moisture to circulate in the form of steam and condensation, keeping the dish moist. Today, most tagines are used for decoration.

For the chicken, using a mortar and pestle, grind garlic and salt to form a paste. Thoroughly rub the chicken with the garlic paste. Rinse the chicken under cold running water and pat dry. In a large saucepan, bring the chicken, ginger, pepper, saffron, turmeric, parsley, cinnamon stick, butter, and enough water to cover to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer until the chicken is very tender, about one hour, turning occasionally. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the chicken to a plate, reserve, and maintain the hot pan. Add the onions and almonds to the hot broth and simmer until the onions are very tender and the sauce has reduced by one-quarter, about 10 minutes. Return the chicken to the hot broth and simmer until warmed through, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, sea son, and set aside keeping warm.

To serve, spoon some chicken and hot broth into a tagine and garnish with chopped parsley.

Harira with Shebbakia and Dates

Aziz Sakan

(Serves 6)

For the shebbakia:

2 teaspoons active dry yeast

3/4 cup water, 90[degrees]

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened

1/4 cup rose water [*]

1/4 teaspoon ground aniseed

1/3 cup toasted sesame seeds, pureed

1 cup honey

1/2 cup whole sesame seeds

For the harira:

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

8 ounces chickpeas, soaked overnight and drained

2 onions, peeled and chopped

1 cup stemmed and chopped parsley

1 tablespoon chopped celery leaves

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 teaspoon turmeric

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 pound lamb shoulder

1 bunch cilantro, leaves only

1 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 quarts plus 1 tablespoon water

2 pounds peeled, seeded, and pureed tomatoes

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour dissolved in 1/2 cup water

Salt and pepper to taste

For the dish: Dates

(*.) Available through Baroody Imports Inc. at [phone].

Note: Harira is a rich soup tradition ally served to break the fast during Ramadan, the Muslim month of fasting. It is traditionally accompanied with shebbakia and hard-boiled eggs.

For the shebbakia, preheat the fryer to 365 degrees. In a small bowl, combine the yeast and two tablespoons of water, set aside for two minutes, or until bubbles form on the surface. Transfer to a medium bowl, add the flour, vinegar, oil, butter, ruse water, aniseed, ad sesame paste and mix well to combine. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and divide the dough in half. Roll each piece 1/4-inch thick. Using a fluted pastry wheel, cut into 7x1/2-inch strips. Tie each strip into a knot, transfer to a parchment-lined sheet pan, and set aside for five minutes. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the honey to a boil, remove from the heat, and set aside keeping warm. Fry the shebbakia knots in the fryer until golden brown, about two minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the shebbakia to the warm honey and toss to coat. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the shebbakia to a parchment-lined sheet pan. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds to coat and set aside.

For the harira, in a medium saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the chickpeas, onions, parsley, celery leaves, pepper, turmeric, and butter and saute until translucent, about four minutes. Add the cinnamon and lamb and saute until golden brown, about 15 minutes. In a blender, combine the cilantro leaves, salt, and one tablespoon of water and blend until combined, about one minute. Add the cilantro mixture and tomatoes to the saucepan. Adjust the heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the remaining water and simmer until reduced by 1/3, about 30 minutes. Increase the heat, bring to a boil, and whisk in the flour mixture, until smooth. Maintain the heat for two minutes, stirring constantly. Reduce the heat and simmer until the flour is well combined and smooth about three minutes. Remove from the heat, season, and set aside keeping warm.

To serve, spoon some harira into a soup bowl and accompany with shebbakia and dates.

Breakfast Pastries

Aziz Sakan

(Serves 6)

For the fekkas:

1 teaspoon active dry yeast

11/4 cups lukewarm water, 90[degrees]

11/2 cups cake flour

1/8 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup confectioners' sugar

1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted

1 teaspoon aniseed

1 teaspoon sesame seeds

1/4 cup finely chopped almonds

1/4 cup orange flower water [*]

For the mlaoui crepes:

1 tablespoon active dry yeast

1 1/4 cups water, 90[degrees]

2 pounds all-purpose flour

3 1/2 ounces melted butter

1 egg

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup peanut oil 

Salt and pepper to taste

For the ghoriba:

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

1 egg

1 cup confectioners' sugar

1 1/2 cups semolina flour

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/2 tablespoon ground cinnamon

(*) Available through Baroody Imports Inc. at [phone].

For the fekkas, preheat the oven to 375 degrees. In a small bowl, combine the yeast and 1/4 cup of the water and set aside for two minutes. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, combine the yeast mixture, flour, salt, sugar, and butter and mix to combine. Add the aniseed, sesame seeds, almond, orange flower water, and the remaining water. Mix until just combined. Transfer the dough to a flat work surface lightly dusted with confectioners' sugar. Knead the dough until smooth, about two minutes. Roll the dough into a 12-inch cylindrical loaf. Place on a parchment lined sheet pan and set aside in a warm place until doubled in volume, about two hours. Score the top several times with a fork and place in the oven to bake until just golden brown, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool completely. Transfer the loaf to a cutting board and cut on the bias into thin biscotti-like slices. Place on a parchment-lined sheet pan and place in the oven until golden brown, about five minutes on each side. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

For the mlaoui crepes, in a small bowl, combine the yeast and 1/4 cup of the water and set aside for two minutes. In a medium bowl, mix together the yeast, remaining water, flour, butter, egg, and salt. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead until smooth and elastic, about five minutes. Place in a medium bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and set aside to rise for two hours. Punch down the dough and turn onto a lightly flowered work surface. Cut the dough into 12 3-ounce rounds and roll each to 1/4-inch thick squares. Fold each square in half, and fold in half again. Transfer to a parchment-lined sheet pan and set aside. In a large non-stick saute pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Season the bread lightly, and saute on both sides until golden brown, about four minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.

For the ghoriba, preheat the oven to 350 degrees and brush a parchment-lined sheet pan with butter. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg and 3/4 cup of the sugar until thick and lemon colored, about two minutes. Add two tablespoons of melted butter and mix until combined, making sure to scraped own the sides of the bowl. Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl, and using a rubber spatula, fold in the semolina, baking powder, salt, and vanilla. Mix until well combined. Roll the dough into small discs. Liberally coat the cookies with the remaining confectioners' sugar and cinnamon, and place on the prepared sheet pan. Place in the oven to bake for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

To serve, arrange some fekkas, mlaoui crepes, and ghoriba on a tray and serve.

Lamb Tagine with Tomatoes and Onions

Kaltoum el Abbadi

(Serves 6)

For the lamb:

1/4 cup vegetable oil

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 pound lamb shoulder

1 onion, peeled and diced

1/2 teaspoon paprika 

5 threads saffron

3 cinnamon sticks

2 cups water

1 tomato, thinly sliced

1 red onion, peeled and thinly sliced

For the garnish:

Confectioners' sugar Ground cinnamon

Note: The tagine cooking vessel is prized for its use of low heat and little water, a precious commodity in the desert climate. The ingredients, spices, and aromatics, are placed in the tagine with a mere spoonful of water. When placed in the hot coals of the public ovens overnight, the A-frame lid enables moisture to circulate in the form of steam and condensation, keeping the dish moist. Today, most tagines are used for decoration.

For the lamb, preheat the oven to 375 degrees. In a large saucepan, heat the oil and butter over high heat. Add the lamb and onion and sear the lamb on all sides. Add the paprika, saffron, and cinnamon sticks and stir to combine. Add the water, cover, and maintain at a simmer until tender, about one hour. Remove from the heat and set aside. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the lamb to a tagine and add enough hot liquid to almost cover. Arrange the tomato slices and onions on top and cover with the tagine lid. Place in the oven and bake until the tomatoes are tender and warmed through, about ten minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside keeping warm.

To serve, sprinkle the dish with sugar and cinnamon.

Moroccan Shladas

Kaltoum Abbadi

(Serves 6)

For the potatoes salad:

2 Idaho potatoes, peeled, boiled, and cooled

1 teaspoon olive oil

3 sprigs parsley, stemmed and chopped

Salt, pepper, paprika, and lemon juice to taste

For the potatoes salad, in a medium bowl, combine all of the ingredients and toss to combine.Season and set aside.

For the carrots salad:

1 large carrot, halved

1 clove garlic, peeled

1 teaspoon olive oil

3 sprigs parsley, stemmed and chopped

Salt, pepper, cumin, paprika, and white wine vinegar to taste

For the carrot salad, bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil. Add the carrot and garlic clove and maintain the heat until tender. Remove from the heat, strain through a fine mesh sieve, and discard the garlic clove. Place the carrot on a cutting board, slice into 1/4-inch thick discs, and place in a medium bowl to cool. Add the olive oil and parsley and toss to combine. Season and set aside.

For the lentils salad:

1 onion, peeled and finely chopped

1 plum tomato, peeled, seeded, and finely diced

1 cup cooked lentils

1/2 cup olive oil

3 sprigs parsley, stemmed and chopped

Salt, pepper, and paprika to taste

For the lentil salad, in a medium saute pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and saute until translucent. Add the tomato and saute until tender. Add the parsley and lentils and saute until warmed through. Remove from the heat, season, and set aside to cool.

For the beets salad:

2 beets, peeled and medium diced

1 clove garlic, peeled

1 teaspoon olive oil

3 sprigs parsley, stemmed and chopped

Salt, pepper, paprika, and white wine vinegar to taste

For the beet salad, in a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine the beets and the garlic clove. Cover with water, bring to a boil, and maintain the heat until tender. Remove from the heat strain through a fine mesh sieve, and discard the garlic clove. Place the beets in a medium bowl to cool. Add the olive oil and parsley and toss to combine. Season and set aside.

For the eggplant salad:

1/4 cup vegetable oil

1 eggplant, peeled and diced

1 onion, peeled and diced

2 plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and diced

3 sprigs parsley, stemmed and chopped

Salt, pepper, paprika, and lemon juice to taste

For the eggplant salad, in a medium saute pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the eggplant, onion, and tomatoes and saute until golden brown, about three minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer to a medium bowl to cool. Add the parsley, season, and set aside.

For the bread:

1 package active dry yeast

1 1/4 cups water, lukewarm

1 teaspoon granulated sugar

3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 cup whole wheat flour 

2 teaspoons salt

1/2 cup milk, warm

1 teaspoon sesame seeds

1 tablespoon aniseed

Softened butter as needed Cornmeal as needed

For the bread, preheat the oven to 400 degrees. In a small bowl, combine the yeast, 1/4 cup water, and sugar and set aside for two minutes. Mix to combine and set aside for five minutes, or until small bubbles form on the surface. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, combine the all-purpose flour and whole-wheat flour and mix to combine on low speed. Add the yeast, salt, milk, sesame seeds, aniseed, and the remaining water to form a firm dough, about seven minutes.

Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead until smooth. Cut the dough in half, transfer one piece to a buttered bowl, and knead the dough to form a conical shape. Transfer to a sheet pan lightly dusted with cornmeal. Gently press down to form a 5-inches disc. Repeat with the remaining and set aside for two hours. Using a fork, score the top of the dough several times and place in the oven to bake for 12 minutes. Adjust the heat to 300 degrees and bake for an additional 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

Note: Every Moroccan dinner begins with an assortments of shladas and thick wedges of fresh bread. The prepared vegetables and olives are served with a variety of marinades and dressing.

Jobne Cheese

Fatima Sahmoudi

(makes 2 pounds)

For the cheese:

4 cardoon flowers, dried and crushed[*]

1 teaspoon water

1 quart whole milk

(*.) Cardoon flowers are available from June-November through The Chef's Garden at [phone]. Vegatable rennet is a suitable substitute. Available through New England Cheesemaking Supply Company at [phone].

Note: In each issue of Art Culinaire, recipes are tested for accuracy. Occasionally we are unable to test a recipe due to the seasonality of ingredients, as was the case with the jobne cheese. The cardoons required to curdle the milk are members of the thistle family, and have been used for centuries to make cheese. A special thanks goes to Jonathan White of Egg Farm Dairy for his consultation and research on this recipe.

For the cheese, in a small bowl, combine the dried cardoon heads and water. Using the back of a wooden spoon, mash the cardoons to form a paste. Transfer the paste to a small piece of cheesecloth, tie to enclose, and squeeze dry, discarding the liquid. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the milk to a boil, stirring frequently. Reduce the heat and add the prepared cardoon paste. squeezing the cheesecloth occasionally to extract the cardoon liquid. Stir occasionally until white curds form. Simmer for 30 seconds without stirring. Remove from the heat and remove the cheesecloth. Transfer the curdled milk to a medium bowl and set aside in the refrigerator until the cheese is the consistency of yogurt, about three days. Transfer the cheese to a cheesecloth-lined, fine mesh sieve to drain overnight.

Lamb and Almond Braewats

Fatima Sahmoudi

(Serves 6)

For the lamb braewats:

1 1/2 pounds ground lamb

1 onion, peeled and chopped

1/4 bunch parsley, stemmed and chopped

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon paprika

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

36 10x2-inch strips warka [*]

For the almond braewats:

1 pound almonds, blanched

4 ounces granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 tablespoon melted butter Pinch of gum arabic, crushed [**]

1 tablespoon orange flower water [***]

36 10x2-inch strips warka [*]

2 cups honey, warmed

For the garnish: Mint sprigs

Note: Braewats are triangular pastries made with warka and savory or sweet fillings.

(*.) See page 21 for recipe. Prepared warka leaves are available through Fattal's at [phone].

(**.) Gum Arabic, also known as meska, is the sap from an almond tree. The tiny beads are used as a flavoring and thickening agent. Available from Vanns Spices LTD. at [phone].

(***.) Available through Baroody Imports Inc. at [phone].

For the lamb braewats, in a medium bowl, combine the lamb, onion, and parsley. Place the lamb in a meat grinder fitted with the medium die attachment, and grind in to a large bowl. Add the cumin, paprika, and black pepper and mix to combine. Place the warka strips transversely on a flat work surface. Place one tablespoon of the filling to one side of a warka strip and fold towards the center on a diagonal to form a triangle. Continue to fold, maintaining the triangular shape. Place the braewats, seam-side-down, on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Repeat with the remaining warka and reserve.

For the almond braewats, in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade attachment, pulse the almonds and the sugar to form a rough paste, about two minutes. Add the cinnamon, butter, gum arabic, and orange flower water. Pulse to form a smooth paste, about one minute. Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl, and set aside. Place the warka strips transversely on a flat work. Place one tablespoon of the filling to one side of a warka strip and fold towards the center on a diagonal to form a triangle. Continue to fold, maintaining the triangular shape. Place the braewats, seamside-down, on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Repeat with the remaining warka and reserve.

To finish the braewats, preheat the fryer to 365 degrees. Fry the lamb braewats in the fryer until golden brown. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper towel-lined sheet pan to drain, and reserve keeping warm. Place the honey in a large saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil, remove from the heat, and set aside keeping warm. Fry almond brae wats in the fryer until golden brown. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the almond braewats to the warm hot honey and toss to coat. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the almond braewats to the warm hot honey and toss to coat. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the almond braewats to a parchment-lined sheet pan, and set aside.

To serve, arrange some lamb and some almond braewats on a plate and garnish with mint.

Spicy Tripe with Pan Fried Bread 

Fatima Sahmoudi

(Serves 6)

For the tripe:

12 ounces lamb tripe, blanched

1 cup kosher salt

4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped

1/2 bunch parsley, stemmed and chopped

1/2 cup olive oil

1/2 cup vegetable oil

1 yellow onion, peeled and chopped

1 large tomato, peeled, seeded, and diced

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1 teaspoon paprika

1/2 teaspoon cumin

3 threads saffron

Salt and pepper to taste

For the pan fried bread:

1 tablespoon active dry yeast

1 1/4 cups water, 90[degrees]

2 pounds all-purpose flour

3 1/2 ounces melted butter

1 egg

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup vegetable oil

Salt to taste

For the garnish

Preserved lemon strips [*]

(*.) See page 21 for recipe. Available through Haddouch Gourmet Imports at [phone].

For the tripe, place the tripe in a medium bowl, and rub with the salt. Place the tripe under cold running water, rinse well, and pat dry. Transfer to a cutting board, and cut into 1-inch pieces and place in a medium bowl. Add the garlic and parsley, toss to coat, and set aside. In a large saute pan, heat the olive oil and vegetable oil over medium heat. Add the onion and tomato and saute until translucent. Add the tripe, ginger, paprika, cumin, and saffron, and cover with water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 45 minutes, or until tender. Remove from the heat, season, and set aside keeping warm.

For the pan fried bread, in a medium bowl, combine the yeast and 1/4 cup of the water and set aside for two minutes. Add the remaining water, flour, butter, egg, and salt and mix until just combined. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface, and knead until smooth and elastic, about five minutes. Place in a medium bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and set aside to rise for two hours. Punch down the dough and turn onto a lightly floured work surface. Divide the dough into six pieces and roll each to 1/4-inch thick squares. Fold each square in half, and fold in half again. Transfer to a parchment-lined sheet pan and set aside. In a large non-stick saute pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Season the bread lightly, and saute on both sides until golden brown, about four minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.

To serve, spoon some tripe onto some bread and garnish with preserved lemon.

Faqqus and Orange Salad

Fatima Sahmoudi

(Serves 6)

For the faqqus salad:

1 pound grated faqqus [*]

1/4 cup granulated sugar

2 teaspoons orange flower water [**]

1 cup water

Salt and sugar to taste

For the orange salad:

3 cups fresh orange juice

2 oranges, peeled, segmented, and seeded

3 heads butterhead lettuce, cored and shred

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/2 cup granulated sugar

2 tablespoons orange flower water [**]

Salt and sugar to taste

For the garnish:

Fresh-dried oregano

(*.) Faqqus are a type of Moroccan cucumber. English cucumbers are a suitable substitute.

(**.) Available through Baroody Imports Inc. at [phone].

For the faqqus salad, in a medium bowl, toss together all of the ingredients to combine. Season and set aside keeping cool.

For the orange salad, in a medium bowl, toss together all of the ingredients to combine. Season and set aside keeping cool.

To serve, spoon some faqqus salad and orange salad in to two separate bowls and garnish with oregano.

Almond and Cinnamon Bisteeya

Hassan Kamal

Achmed Abboudi

(Serves 6)

For the warka:

5 8-inch warka leaves [*]

2 1/2 cups vegetable oil

For the milk:

2 cups whole milk

1 teaspoon gum arabic [**]

For the almonds:

3 1/2 ounces blanched almonds, minced

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 teaspoons confectioners' sugar

For the orange salad:

2 oranges, peeled and thinly sliced

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon orange flower water[***]

1 teaspoon confectioners' sugar

For the garnish:

Mint springs

(*.) See page 21. Prepared warka leaves are available through Fattal's at [phone].

(**.) Gum Arabic, also known as meska, is the sap from an almond tree. The tiny beads are used as a flavoring and thickening agent. Available from Vanns Spices LTD. at [phone].

(***.) Available through Baroody Imports Inc. at [phone].

For the warka, in a large saute pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Place the warka leaves in the pan and fry until crisp, turning once. Remove from the heat, place on a paper towel-lined sheet pan to drain, and set aside keeping warm.

For the milk, in a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the milk and gum arabic to a simmer and maintain the heat for 10 minutes or until the mixture becomes thick. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Set aside keeping warm.

For the almonds, in a medium bowl, combine all of the ingredients, mix to combine and set aside.

For the orange salad, in a medium bowl, combine all of the ingredients, toss to combine, and set aside.

To assemble, place a warka leaf in the center of a plate and sprinkle with some almonds. Repeat with four more layers of warka leaves. Sprinkle some almonds on top, arrange some orange salad around the dish and garnish with mint. Drizzle the milk on top.

Spicy Fried Sardines

Hassan Kamal

Achmed Abboudi

(Serves 6)

For the sardines:

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon paprika

1 teaspoon ground white pepper

3 cloves garlic, peeled and halved

4 springs oregano

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

30 fresh sardines, butterflied and cleaned

2 cups all-purpose flour

2 cups vegetable oil

Salt and pepper to taste

For the tomato sauce:

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

4 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and finely chopped

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground paprika Salt, pepper, ground cumin, and ground paprika to taste

For the dish:

Shredded lettuce

Lemon halves

For the garnish:

Parsley sprigs

For the sardines, in a large bowl, whisk together the cumin, paprika, white pepper, garlic, oregano, and vinegar. Add the sardines, toss to coat, and set aside for 10 minutes. Place the flour in a large, shallow bowl. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the sardines to the flour and toss to coat. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the sardines to a parchment-lined sheet pan and set aside. In a large saute pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Fry the sardines on both sides until golden brown. Using a slotted spatula, transfer the sardines to a paper towel-lined sheet pan to drain. Season and set aside keeping warm.

For the tomato sauce, in a medium saucepan, heat the oil remaining ingredients and simmer until very tender, about 15 minutes, Remove from the heat, season, and set aside.

To serve, arrange some lettuce and lemon halves around the plate. Place some sardines around the dish and top with some tomato sauce. Garnish with parsley sprigs.

Moroccan Cookies

Hassan Kamal

Achmed Abboudi

(Serves 6)

For the kab el ghzal cookies:

5 tablespoons melted butter

2 pounds blanched almonds, chopped

1 pound granulated sugar

1 cup plus 1 teaspoon orange flower water [*]

2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

For the coco cookies:

1/2 pound almond paste

1/4 pound granulated sugar

4 egg whites

For the mluza cookies

1/2 pound almond paste

1/4 pound granulated sugar

4 ounces blanced almonds, minced

4 egg whites

24 whole blanced almonds

For the garnish:

Confectioners' sugar

(*.) Available through Baroody Imports Inc. at [phone].

For the kab el ghzal cookies, preheat the oven to 325 degrees and brush a parchment-lined sheet pan with two tablespoons butter. In a medium bowl, whisk together the almonds, sugar, and one teaspoon orange flower water. Divide the mixture into four balls and roll each into 8-inch long strips. Using a sharp knife, cut each strip into 2-inch pieces and set aside. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, combine the flour, two tablespoons of butter, orange flower water, and salt. Mix, on low speed for 12 minutes or until the dough is smooth and elastic. Transfer the dough to a flat work surface and divide into four equal parts. Roll each ball to form 2x12-inch strips. Arrange some almond filling across the bottom edge of each pastry sheet, fold to enclose, and trim away any excess dough with a fluted pastry wheel. Using a sharp knife, cut the pastry between the almond paste filling to form four cookies. Transfer the cookies to the prepared sheet pans and bend to a form a crescent shape. Place in the oven to bake, for three minutes or until the edges begin to brown. Remove from the heat and reserve.

For the coco cookies, preheat the oven to 325 degrees. In the bowl of an electric mixed fitted with the paddle attachment, mix together the almond paste and sugar until smooth and well combined, about three minutes. Add two of the egg whites and mix until well combine, making sure to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the batter to a medium bowl and set aside. In a separate bowl of an electric mixer fitter with the whisk attachment, beat the remaining egg whites to form stiff peaks, about four minutes. Remove the bowl and fold the egg whites into the almond paste to combine. Roll the mixture into 24 rounds and place on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Place in the oven to bake until golden brown, about five minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

For the mluza cookies, preheat the oven to 325 degrees. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix together the almond paste, sugar, and almonds until smooth and well combined, about three minutes. Add two of the egg whites and mix until well combined, making sure to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a medium bowl and set aside. In the separate bowl of an electric mixer fitter with the whisk attachment, beat the remaining egg whites to form stiff peaks, about four minutes. Remove the bowl and fold the egg whites into the almond paste mixture to combine. Roll the mixture into 24 balls, place on a parchment-lined sheet pan, score the top with a knife, and place an almond on top. Place in the oven to bake until golden brown, about five minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

To serve, dust the coco cookies with confectioners' sugar and arrange the cookies on a plate.