WRAP AND ROLL; SANDWICH CRAZE EDGES INTO MAINSTREAM.

Byline: Deborah S. Hartz Sun-Sentinel, South Florida

It's the sandwich of the '90s. Something that's fun for everyone - no matter how old or young you are.

At least that's how Lori Lyn Narlock, the co-author of ``Wraps'' (Chronicle Books), describes ``wraps'' - sandwiches that are an upscale cousin to the burrito.

Whether you eat them out or create your own at home, wraps are made with a thin wrapper - usually a flour tortilla but sometimes lavash, chapati, rice paper, crepes, pita or other flat bread - topped with an international array of ingredients and then rolled up to form a burrito-shaped package.

When it comes to fillings, use your imagination.

They might include Italian options such as mushrooms, spinach, tomatoes and mozzarella; Asian selections including grilled eggplant basted with soy sauce, rice vinegar and sesame oil; Mediterranean fillings such as arugula leaves, tabbouleh, grilled chicken and roasted red peppers; and even all-American flavors such as bacon, tomatoes, onions and turkey.

And don't forget about dessert wraps.

Narlock likes a combination of apple slices sauteed with maple syrup, lemon juice, butter and rum. Then she adds a little creme fraiche, wraps it in a tortilla, sprinkles it with cinnamon and bakes it.

``The tortilla becomes a crisp crust without all the work of making a crust,'' she says.

There's also the breakfast wrap. Try banana slices, granola, honey and yogurt wrapped in a tortilla spread with peanut butter and rolled.

Narlock says the trend began about five years ago in the agricultural areas of Northern California and in San Francisco, where the cooks at Americanized Mexican restaurants realized a burrito needn't be just ``rice, beans, meat and salsa.'' They started adding tofu, vegetables and other ingredients.

``Some of these weren't traditional Mexican ingredients either - they were parts of other cuisines,'' she says. Narlock adds that wraps are a good way to try a variety of ethnic ingredients without immersing yourself in a culture's cooking techniques.

Companies such as World Wrapps, whose executive chef Aaron Noveshen takes credit for ``creating this menu item,'' and Chevy's restaurants quickly got into the craze out West where ``everybody has a wrap on the menu,'' says Narlock who lives in San Francisco.

The craze quickly spread to the Northeast - especially New York and Massachusetts.

In South Florida, they don't fare as well. Coco Mongo, which specialized in wraps, opened earlier this year on Las Olas Boulevard in Fort Lauderdale, Fla., in a location that had briefly housed a similar restaurant, Naturally Wrapped. Coco Mongo also closed its doors quickly. However, the owners did bring food consultant Denyse O'Grady from Chicago to help them develop a wrap menu.

``Wraps are a trend, just like crepes were at one time,'' O'Grady says.

Even national chain restaurants have them on their menus. Long John Silver's Seafood Shoppes call them ``Wraps''; TGI Friday's restaurants dub them ``Wrappers'' and put the fillings in a whole-wheat pita bread; KFC outlets name them ``Twisters.''

And Tyson Foods Inc. introduced its line of Restaurant Favorites to supermarkets recently. It includes two wraps: the Southwest Blackened Wrap (strips of blackened grilled chicken with Cajun seasoning in a tomato-flavored tortilla) and the Mandarin Sesame Wrap (chicken marinated in Oriental spices wrapped in an orange tortilla).

Coming from California, wraps are often perceived as healthy. Even Vegetarian Times magazine ran an article about them in a recent issue.

But as a study done recently by The New York Times proves, that's not necessarily so. The paper had 14 wraps from seven makers analyzed for calories and fat. And many, they said, had enough of each for two meals.

But this is a problem you can avoid by making your own at home. And just in case you'd like to try your hand, here are some tips.

``Wraps made at home are best because you can experiment and control the ingredients,'' Narlock says. ``I urge you to use healthy and wholesome ingredients.''

To begin with, thin and pliable flour tortillas are the easiest wraps to use. They contain fat that softens as you heat them, making the tortillas easier to roll and shape when warmed.

O'Grady suggests that when it comes to the fillings, start with a layer of well-dried lettuce, raw spinach, radicchio or other leafy base to help keep the tortilla from becoming soggy after it's rolled. Next she adds a starchy ingredient such as rice, grain of some sort, couscous or rice noodles. She tops this with a dressing such as salsa or peanut sauce.

``You want the dressing to impart lots of flavor but not give off a lot of liquid,'' she says. Then she adds crunchy ingredients such as bean sprouts or diced sweet red peppers.

``You have to be sure what you use on the top and bottom is not too moist, or the shell will break when it's rolled,'' she says.

Narlock doesn't think the order of adding ingredients is important and often mixes them all together as she does in her All-American Club Sandwich Wrap.

There are a number of ways to shape the wrap. You can merely roll it from one side of the tortilla to the other as you do in some of the recipes given here.

Or, place the filling so there's a 1-inch margin around the edge of the tortilla. Then fold in one or both ends and roll from one edge of the tortilla to the other as you do in the club sandwich wrap. This will give you a burrito-style wrap or one with an open end.

For serving, Narlock rolls her wraps in a sheet of foil. However, she uses plastic wrap if she plans to freeze the finished product. Although fillings with raw vegetables, eggs, fish or mayonnaise don't freeze well, some combinations that work include mashed potatoes with barbecued sirloin; chicken, peas, bacon and orzo in a cream sauce; or rice and beans with sausage, she says.

When the wrap is frozen, Narlock thaws it in the microwave before serving.

Clearly wraps are convenient. You can make them ahead, then toss one in a knapsack to take on an outing or eat at your desk at work, Narlock says.

Or you can roll them and slice them crosswise.

``The wrap slices look like a form of sushi,'' O'Grady says. ``The colors of the filling are inviting and make the slices visually exciting,'' she adds.

In fact, she often uses them when she's catering parties. They make a great, yet simple, hors d'oeuvre to pass on a plate.

ITALIAN SPINACH, MUSHROOM AND MOZZARELLA WRAPS

1 tablespoon olive oil

8 ounces fresh white mushrooms, sliced (about 2 1/2 cups)

1 teaspoon minced garlic

2 (10-inch) flour tortillas

1/2 pound fresh spinach OR arugula, trimmed and stemmed

1 plum tomato, diced

1/2 cup (2 ounces) shredded part-skim mozzarella cheese

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat oil. Add mushrooms and garlic; cook and stir about 5 minutes or until mushroom liquid has evaporated.

Wrap tortillas in foil. Bake in preheated 250-degree oven about 10 minutes or until heated through. Alternatively, wrap tortillas in damp paper towels and microwave on high power 30 to 60 seconds.

On each tortilla, arrange layers of spinach, tomato, mozzarella and cooked mushrooms. Roll up and place seam-side down in a lightly oiled baking dish.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven uncovered 10 minutes until hot and cheese is melted.

Cut each tortilla crosswise into quarters. Serve hot or at room temperature. Makes 2 servings.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SERVING: 37 calories; 16 grams fat; 42 grams carbohydrates; 17 grams protein; 16 milligrams cholesterol; 482 milligrams sodium.

ASIAN GRILLED EGGPLANT WRAPS WITH GARLIC SAUCE

You can use this to form an open-ended wrap, but you can fold it burrito-style if you like.

1 clove garlic, minced

1 teaspoon tamari OR soy sauce

1 teaspoon rice vinegar

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 large eggplant, cut diagonally into 1/4-inch-thick slices (24 slices)

1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil, for brushing

6 (8-inch) flour tortillas

6 tablespoons plain low-fat yogurt OR soy yogurt

1 1/2 teaspoons toasted sesame seeds (see Note)

In a small nonreactive bowl, whisk together garlic, tamari, vinegar and sesame oil; set aside.

Preheat stove-top grill pan over medium-high heat. Brush eggplant lightly with vegetable oil and place, oiled side down, in pan. Cook over medium-high heat 4 to 5 minutes. Brush tops with more oil, turn slices and cook about 5 minutes or until eggplant is golden and flesh is tender. Or, if desired, preheat a charcoal or gas grill and grill eggplant.

Transfer eggplant to a platter and brush with garlic mixture. Then cut each crosswise into 3 strips.

Wrap tortillas in foil. Bake in preheated 250-degree oven about 10 minutes or until heated through. If using a grill, wrap tortillas in foil and place on edge of grill. Alternatively, wrap tortillas in damp paper towels and microwave on high power 30 to 60 seconds.

On each warm tortilla, place 12 strips eggplant. Garnish with 1 tablespoon yogurt and 1/4 teaspoon sesame seeds. Wrap each tortilla around its fillings or fold in sides and wrap from bottom to top. Makes 6 wraps.

NOTE: To toast sesame seeds, place in a dry skillet over medium heat. Toss seeds frequently to avoid burning. Cook about 3 minutes or until golden.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SERVING: 174 calories; 7 grams fat; 23 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 1 milligram cholesterol; 233 milligrams sodium.

Adapted from Vegetarian Times.

MEDITERRANEAN WRAPS

4 (9-inch) flour tortillas

16 large arugula leaves

4 cups tabbouleh (see Note)

1 cup OR 5 ounces strips of boneless, skinless, roasted OR grilled chicken breast (see Note)

24 strips roasted and peeled red bell pepper (see Note)

12 chives 

Wrap tortillas in foil. Bake in preheated 250-degree oven about 10 minutes or until heated through. If using a grill to cook chicken, wrap tortillas in foil and place on edge of preheated grill. Alternatively, wrap tortillas in damp paper towels and microwave on high power 30 to 60 seconds.

Cover each tortilla with 4 arugula leaves. Top with 1/2 cup tabbouleh spread out atop arugula to cover tortilla. Down center of tabbouleh-covered tortilla, place 1/4 of chicken slices in a row about 1 1/2 inches wide. Top chicken with 6 red pepper strips to form a row. Lay 3 chives lengthwise atop row of chicken and red pepper strips. Fold edges of tortilla up over fillings. Or leave a 1-inch margin at each end of fillings. Fold in sides and then roll from bottom edge of tortilla to top.

To help secure tortilla around fillings, wrap in wax paper or foil. Makes 4 servings.

NOTE: Tabbouleh ready-made can be purchased at Middle Eastern grocery stores, or make your own. We used Near East Taboule Wheat Salad Mix available in supermarkets in the aisle with couscous and rice. Just add oil, lemon juice and chopped fresh tomatoes.

You can grill, pan-grill or saute boneless skinless chicken breasts. Or use fully cooked chicken breast meat, available in supermarkets.

Roast, peel and julienne red bell peppers or for ease and convenience use the already peeled and roasted ones that can be purchased in a jar. Then just drain and julienne the pepper pieces. You'll find them in the grocery store aisle near pickles and olives. Do not substitute pimientos.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SERVING: 303 calories; 8 grams fat; 42 grams carbohydrates; 18 grams protein; 30 milligrams cholesterol; 203 milligrams sodium.

ALL-AMERICAN CLUB SANDWICH WRAP

If you want to make this a vegetarian option, omit the turkey and use soy ``bacon bits.'' This makes a burrito-style wrap.

4 uncooked bacon slices, diced

1/2 cup chopped avocados

1/2 cup chopped seeded tomatoes

1/3 cup finely chopped red onions

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

1 teaspoon fresh lime juice

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 (9-inch) flour tortillas

1/4 pound thinly sliced smoked turkey

1 cup firmly packed chopped arugula

Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes or until crisp and brown. Using a slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towels to drain.

Meanwhile, combine avocados, tomatoes, onions, basil, lime juice and bacon in a small nonreactive bowl. Season with salt and pepper.

Wrap tortillas in foil. Bake in preheated 250-degree oven about 10 minutes or until heated through. Alternatively, wrap tortillas in damp paper towels and microwave on high power 30 to 60 seconds.

Place 1 cup avocado mixture on each tortilla and spread to cover tortillas, leaving at least a 1-inch border around edge. Divide turkey and arugula between tortillas, laying slices and leaves out flat to cover. Fold right and left edges of tortilla toward center over filling. Fold bottom edge of tortilla toward center and gently roll until tortilla is completely wrapped around filling. Makes 2 servings.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SERVING: 364 calories; 20 grams fat; 29 grams carbohydrates; 20 grams protein; 35 milligrams cholesterol; 934 milligrams sodium.

Adapted from ``Wraps'' by Mary Corpening Barber and Sara Corpening (Chronicle Books).

For tortilla treat, it's a wrap

Here are some wrappers that are best for making wraps. Although most of the recipes given here call for flour tortillas, you can substitute other wrappers.

Tortillas

Wraps commonly are made with either corn or flour tortillas, but we found the flour ones easier to fold. These come in the 6-inch fajita size; 7-inch soft taco size and 9- and 10-inch burrito size.

Some whole food and retail stores do carry flavored wraps, such as tomato and basil, spinach and chili. You also can mail-order Flappers from Fina Vida Foods by calling [phone]. Eight of these flavored tortillas cost $2 plus shipping and come in varieties such as chipotle chile, garden and spinach.

You also may find such products as whole wheat and sprouted wheat (these have a rough texture and nutty flavor) tortillas You also will find low-fat tortillas.

According to a survey by Elway Research, tortillas are becoming part of the mainstream American diet. Producers estimate that nearly 60 percent of their tortilla products are consumed by non-Latinos, says Irwin Steinberg, executive director of the Tortilla Industry Association, which commissioned the study.

Tortilla producers project an 18 percent growth rate in sales of tortillas during the coming year, and a growth rate of 54 percent during the next five years. Flour tortillas widened their dominance over corn tortillas in the last two years by a margin of 2-to-1. Flour tortillas account for more than half of tortilla revenue and poundage, and flour tortillas made from white flour continue to lead the market.

Lavash

This Armenian flat bread used to be available only in a crisp form that had to be soaked to be used for wrapping, but now it also is available in a soft version that requires much less work. We found it in 10-inch rounds.

Thin Thin Wraps

Produced by Garden of Eatin', these are designed just for making wrap sandwiches - especially the sushi style ones. They are 10-by-8-inch rectangles of a whole-wheat flour tortilla-like dough that are low in fat and sodium.

CAPTION(S):

Photo, Box

Photo: (Color) Wraps have become the sandwich of the '90s and can be filled with a variety of tantalizing ingredients.

Stocker/Sun Sentinel

Box: For tortilla treat, it's a wrap (See Text)