WOK ON THE WILD SIDE HUSBAND-WIFE COOKBOOK AUTHORS TURN UP THE HEAT - DELICIOUSLY.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

With the days getting longer and warmer, there's no reason to spend long hours preparing dinner at a hot stove.

Turn to the wok, the touchstone of Chinese cuisine, for a fast work-night meal, suggest the Napa Valley-based husband-and-wife team of Hugh Carpenter and Teri Sandison, authors of the new ``Fast Wok'' (Ten Speed Press; $17.95). Tailored to fit the home cook's busy schedule, the book's more than 100 tantalizing recipes utilizing fish, chicken, game birds, pork, veal, beef, lamb, tofu, noodles, vegetables, shellfish and more, showcase the creativity of wok cooking.

``Master the stir-fry dance,'' write the authors. ``Listen to the food sizzling. Watch the color changing as each ingredient quickly and perfectly cooks. Stir and toss, then stir and toss again and again. Enticing aromas announce the arrival of another wok creation.''

Carpenter, who has used the wok for decades, has changed his tune over the years, streamlining and simplifying his dishes and using fewer ingredients without sacrificing flavor. ``You don't have to end up with a recipe that has no flavor just because it is easier.''

The couple have written 12 cookbooks. Carpenter is the recipe innovator while Sandison concentrates on glorious food photographs. Carpenter joined the fast-cooking track three years ago with ``Fast Appetizers.''

The book demonstrates that wok cooking can be incredibly easy as well as light and healthy. Use the wok to stir-fry vegetables for sides dishes to accompany barbecued meats, chicken or fish. Or marinate meats, chicken and fish, then stir-fry and serve on a dinner salad, in lettuce cups or atop stir-fried vegetables; or wrap inside hot tortillas or pile in toasted pita bread pockets. Or serve with Asian noodles, Italian pasta, wild rice, roasted potatoes, etc.

Readily available seasonings and ingredients - Asian, Thai, East-West, Southwest, etc. - can add wonderful complex tastes to wok cooking, says Carpenter.

The wok also lends itself to flavor ideas from around the world such as Mussels in Smoked Tomato Sauce, Beef Fajitas, Wok Seared Pesto Shrimp or Fire Wok Scallops with Mexican Salsa.

Particularly useful in the book are the brand recommendations with color photos (for easy identification) for Asian condiments (a key factor in delicious tasting wok foods).

Next on the horizon - another book on the quick theme - ``Fast Entrees''- due in bookstores in August.

Time to grab your wok, set your table - and get dinner on with these quick ideas from ``Wok Fast.''

WOK CHICKEN WITH HERBS

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breast meat

All-Purpose Chinese Marinade OR your favorite wok marinade

2 tablespoons flavorless cooking oil

1/4 cup cilantro sprigs, mint leaves OR small basil leaves

Assorted salad greens lightly dressed with oil and vinegar

Cut chicken into 1/4x1-inch rectangles. Place chicken in a bowl and add All-Purpose Chinese Marinade. Mix well, cover and refrigerate until 5 minutes before cooking.

Place a wok over high heat. When wok is very hot, add cooking oil quickly and quickly roll around bottom one-third of wok. When oil is hot, carefully add chicken and stir and toss until it is mostly opaque, about 2 minutes. Stir in cilantro. Place atop salads on dinner plates. Serve at once. Makes 2 to 4 servings.

ALL-PURPOSE CHINESE MARINADE: Mix together well 1 tablespoon dark soy sauce, 1 tablespoon hoisin sauce, 1 tablespoon dry sherry OR Chinese rice wine, 1 tablespoon dark sesame oil and several grinds black pepper OR up to 1 teaspoon Asian chile sauce.

GINGER SCALLOPS WITH SNOW PEAS AND MUSHROOMS

1 pound fresh bay scallops

2 cups small snow peas

1/4 pound small button mushrooms

3 tablespoons flavorless cooking oil

Ginger-Butter Sauce OR your favorite wok sauce

If scallops are wet, pat dry with paper towels. Snap stem ends off snow peas, pulling away fiber that runs along ridge. Cut mushrooms into quarters. Combine snow peas and mushrooms (you will need 4 cups total).

Place a wok over high heat. When wok is very hot, add 1 1/2 tablespoons cooking oil quickly and quickly roll around bottom one-third of wok. When oil is hot, carefully add scallops and stir-fry until they firm slightly and begin to turn white, about 1 minute. Transfer to a plate and return wok to high heat. Add remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons oil. When hot, add vegetable mixture and stir-fry until brightened, about 1 minute. Pour in Ginger-Butter Sauce and return scallops to wok. Stir and toss until sauce glazes food, about 30 seconds. Transfer to a platter or dinner plates and serve at once. Makes 2 to 4 servings.

GINGER-BUTTER SAUCE: Mix together well 1/4 cup finely minced fresh ginger, 1/4 cup chicken broth, 1/4 cup white wine, 3 tablespoons melted unsalted butter, 2 tablespoons oyster sauce, 1 tablespoon dark sesame oil, 2 teaspoons cornstarch, 1 teaspoon sugar and 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.

OLD MRS. MA'S TOFU

6 cloves garlic, finely minced

1/4 pound ground lamb OR pork

1 pound firm bean curd 

Szechwan Marinade/Sauce OR your favorite wok marinade or sauce

1/2 cup chicken broth

2 whole green onions, minced

1/3 cup chopped cilantro sprigs

2 tablespoons flavorless cooking oil

Combine garlic and lamb. Thoroughly drain bean curd and cut into 1-inch slices. Cut slices into 1-inch cubes. Combine Szechwan Marinade/Sauce and chicken broth. Combine green onions and cilantro.

Place a wok over high heat. When the wok is very hot, add oil quickly and quickly roll around bottom one-third of wok. When oil is hot, add lamb and stir-fry, pressing it against sides of wok. Cook until meat breaks apart into individual clumps and is no longer pink, about 90 seconds. Add bean curd and sauce. When sauce comes to a boil, cover wok. Every 30 seconds, gently stir bean curd, then cover wok again. When sauce glazes bean curd, about 2 minutes, stir in green onions and cilantro. Transfer to a platter or dinner plates and serve at once. Makes 2 to 4 servings.

SZECHWAN MARINADE/SAUCE: Combine and mix well 2 tablespoons dry sherry OR Chinese rice wine, 1 tablespoon dark sesame oil, 1 tablespoon hoisin sauce, 1 tablespoon dark soy sauce, 1 tablespoon honey, 2 teaspoons Asian chile sauce, 2 cloves garlic, finely minced, 2 tablespoons finely minced fresh ginger, 3 tablespoons minced green onions and 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro sprigs.

SHRIMP IN SMOKY CHIPOTLE CHILE SAUCE

1 pound large raw shrimp, shelled and deveined

3 cloves garlic, finely minced

2 tablespoons flavorless cooking oil

Smoky Chipotle Chile Sauce OR your favorite wok sauce

1/3 cup chopped cilantro sprigs

3 ounces soft goat cheese, crumbled

Cut shrimp in half lengthwise and combine with garlic. Place a wok over high heat. When wok is very hot, add oil quickly and then quickly roll around bottom third of wok. When oil is hot, carefully add shrimp and stir-fry until slightly pink, about 1 minute. Pour in Smoky Chipotle Chile Sauce. Stir and toss until sauce glazes shrimp, about 30 seconds. Stir in cilantro and transfer to a platter or dinner plates. Sprinkle goat cheese over and serve at once. Makes 2 to 4 servings.

SMOKY CHIPOTLE CHILE SAUCE: Mix together well 2 tablespoons finely minced chipotle chiles including seeds, 2 teaspoons grated lime peel, 1/4 cup chicken broth, 2 tablespoons dry sherry OR Chinese rice wine, 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice, 1 tablespoon thin soy sauce, 1 tablespoon brown sugar, 2 teaspoons cornstarch and 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin.

The fast way

Here are some of Hugh Carpenter's tips for wok success:

-- Always use a flat-bottomed wok (never a round-bottomed wok and never a ring) with a long handle on one side and a short handle on the opposite side. Two handles help you pick the wok up off the stove and tip out the food.

-- Use old-fashioned steel, stainless steel, nonstick, Calphalon or copper. Do not use an electric wok as it doesn't generate the high heat necessary to sear foods properly.

-- Because American home stoves generate so little heat, limit the wok to 14 to 16 inches in diameter and never stir-fry more than 1 pound of meat or seafood or four cups of vegetables (with the exception of spinach or other leafy greens which can total eight cups) at a time. Too much food, and you'll end up with wok soup.

-- Do not substitute a flat-bottomed skillet for a wok, as it is impossible, over high heat, to cook the food evenly and turn it over fast enough.

-- Heat the wok until very hot, then quickly add oil to center and roll quickly around bottom third of wok to avoid smoking and possibility of bursting into flames. If oil flames, cover wok and remove from heat. To avoid flames, some experts prefer heating the oil in a cold wok from the outset.

-- Avoid using store-bought wok sauces/marinades as they lack fresh flavor and often contain preservatives. It takes only a few seconds to measure ingredients for homemade ones.

-- Mix and match the 26 sauces/marinades included in the book for an infinite number of creations. Make in advance and store in the fridge to hasten preparation.

-- The smaller the food is cut, the quicker it cooks. Combine different- shaped ingredients in the same dish to speed preparation.

-- To save time, invest in an electric mini-chopper, if you don't already have one, to mince peeled garlic, shallots and ginger.

-- If the sauce/mixture in the wok looks watery at the end of cooking, thicken by adding a mixture of 1 tablespoon cornstarch, 1 tablespoon cold water and 1/2 teaspoon cooking oil, a little at a time. Cook a minute or two, stirring, until thickened.

- Natalie Haughton

CAPTION(S):

4 photos, box

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) IN A HURRY?

WOK THIS WAY

(2 -- color) OLD MRS. MA'S TOFU

(3 -- color) GINGER SCALLOPS

From ``Wok Fast,'' Ten Speed Press

(4 -- color) ``Wok Fast''

Box:

The fast way (see text)