WINELINE G.I. NAPA NOT YOUR GOVERNMENT-ISSUE WINE.

Byline: LARRY LIPSON

Napa Valley's just-announced GI status has nothing to do with our armed services "government issue," said to be the original meaning of the acronym G.I. Nor does it mean gastrointestinal, the medical version of G.I.

The initials in Napa's case stand for Geographic Indication, which is the European Union's way of commercially protecting a geographical name.

Consequently, it will now be very difficult for anyone -- other than those truly using grapes from Napa Valley -- to use a Napa Valley designation for any wine distributed in Europe.

The Napa Valley Vintner's Association hails this recognition as "a great victory for protecting the Napa name in Europe, a critical component to the (association's) ongoing efforts worldwide."

Meanwhile, trade groups from Sonoma, Mendocino and other California wine-growing regions are probably taking pills for their own G.I. condition, caused, no doubt, by acute jealousy.

OYSTER MATES: Chablis (a Burgundian chardonnay) and muscadet from France are generally acknowledged as the best wines to drink with oysters. But here in the U.S., we rarely find a chardonnay that's flinty and lean enough to make a fine oyster accompaniment. And hardly anyone makes a muscadet here of note.

I mentioned in a previous Wineline column that I had tasted a California chardonnay recently that had Chablis-like characteristics. But only 1,000 cases were made of this Domaine Chandon still white wine.

Interestingly, only one chardonnay, the 2006 Martin & Weyrich unwooded rendition -- yes, it's Californian -- made the top 10 in the recent Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition.

Half of the 10 (all winners dubbed equal) were sauvignon/fume blancs; two 2005s (Brassfield Estate and Dry Creek) and three 2006s (Geyser Peak, Hall and Kenwood).

Dry Creek also won with its 2006 dry chenin blanc.

The remaining three were pinot gris (none called pinot grigio) from Oregon, these from King Estate, Sweet Cheeks and Willamette Valley.

All of the winners can be tasted at a special event at the upcoming Monterey Wine Festival on June 8 (the festival runs June 7-9). Information: www.oysterwine.com and www.montereywine.com.

NEW RELEASES: Latest from Buena Vista Carneros are a 2004 merlot ($21) blended with 5 percent syrah and 5 percent cabernet franc for "structure and complexity," and a 2005 chardonnay ($19). Information: www.buenavistacarneros.com. -- Utilizing all five Bordeaux varieties (68 percent cabernet sauvignon, 14 percent merlot, 11 percent petit verdot, 5 percent malbec and 2 percent cabernet franc) Robert Mondavi has released a 2005 Private Selection bottling dubbed Venetta ($11). Most of the grapes in this wine emanate from the Central Coast regions (Monterey, Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo counties) of California. Information: www.robertmondavi.com. -- Also now available, the 2005 Amador County Rocky Top zinfandel ($17.95) from Sobon Estate is another hefty zin made from Sobon's own certified organically grown grapes. Information: [phone] or www.sobonwine.com.

SIPS AND NIBBLES: Ex-Oakstone, Sierra Hills, winemaker Craig Boyd has moved over to Temecula's Mount Palomar Winery as its new winemaker. Information: [phone] or www.mountpalomar.com. -- California's Gov. Schwarzenegger has proclaimed September this year as California Wine Month, aimed at promoting the state's wine industry. Information: www.californiawineevents.com. -- "There's sunlight in every bottle we produce," says Chateau Montelena winemaker Bo Barrett, referring to his famous Napa winery's conversion to 100 percent solar electricity. Montelena is renowned for its winning chardonnay at the famous 1976 Judgment in Paris wine tasting, when France's distinctive white burgundies were pitted against California chardonnays. Information [phone] or www.chateaumontelena.com. -- Monterey County's 11th annual Great Wine Escape Weekend has been scheduled for Nov. 9-11 this year. Ticket and accommodation information: [phone] or www.montereywines.org. -- Claimed as the first international guide for globe-trotting wine fanciers is Robert JoSeptemberh's new "Wine Travel Guide to the World" (Footprint; $29.95). Information: www.bookcost.com. ... Look for a quintet of French labels (Domaine La Baume, Kiwi Cuvee, Helfrich, Chateau Laroque and Now & Zen) to hit U.S. shelves this summer from Les Grands Chais de France based in Petersbach, Alsace. Kiwi ($7.99), a 2006 sauvignon blanc, is the least expensive, Chateau Laroque ($59.99), a 2000 St. Emilion Grand Cru, the most. La Baume ($14.99 comes in both a pinot noir and chardonnay. Helfrich ($19.99) is a gewUrztraminer from Alsace and Now & Zen ($11.99) is a blend of grapes from the same area. Information: [phone] and www.underdogwinemerchants.com.