WINELINE A BIG SURPRISE FROM MADERA, CALIF.

Byline: LARRY LIPSON

Michael Leven, a smart, dedicated winemaker, makes relatively small amounts of well-crafted wines in Madera, Calif., not previously well-known for other than fortified wines.

But Leven's grapes, are not from that hot valley area. They're from Monterey County and the Sierra foothills, and Madera happens to be halfway between those premium grape-growing regions.

At his recently built winery, he produces barely a few hundred cases of each artisanal wine, definitely not a formula for quick riches. But he's a patient man and will gradually increase production, hoping to begin making a profit within the next two years.

With a 15-year California wine industry background that includes winemaking jobs with Glen Ellen, Beaulieu and Kendall-Jackson, Leven began his own Mariposa Wine Co. with partner Richard Spencer in 2003.

But there is no Mariposa label.

Instead, there are three distinct brands, Yosemite View from vineyards in the Sierra Foothills, Cru Monterey of Burgundian varietals (pinot noir and chardonnay) from select Monterey County grapes and Carmichael Vintners.

The latter includes interesting blends, such as one called Grigio e Bianco ($14.99) made with primarily pinot grigio (or pinot gris) and sauvignon blanc grapes, also from mainly Monterey County fruit.

I sampled some of Leven's red and white wines paired with various dishes recently at Pinot Bistro in Sherman Oaks.

I thought a manchego cheese dish went best with the Grigio e Bianco, a refreshing white, not too sharp, somewhat rounded by the addition of a little chardonnay.

The mussels (flavored with grapefruit and fennel) paired favorably with a barrel sample of Leven's Cru 2005 chardonnay ($17.99), yet to be bottled, still unfiltered.

The Yosemite View 2005 sauvignon blanc ($12.99) turned out to be the perfect companion for the goat cheese and sweet piquillo pepper plate, yet it also stood up to the tuna mixture.

Leven's 2005 Cru pinot noir ($17.99) matched up nicely with a lamb on focaccia sandwich.

And two red Carmichaels, both with impressive finishes, one a 2003 sangiovese blend called Sa Vini ($16.99) and the other a 2002 syrah blend titled Sur le Pont ($16.99), were natural companions to a steak frites platter.

To find out more about Leven's wines, call [phone],

or go to www.mariposawine.com.

UNDER-$10 BARGAIN: You will rarely find a better deal than the 2005 Bodegas Zabrin garnacha de Fuego from Spain.

Acclaimed for its fruity flavor and spicy aroma, it's available for $7.50 at the Duke of Bourbon, 20908 Roscoe Blvd., Canoga Park. By the case, it's $6.99 per bottle. Information: [phone]. www.dukeofbourbon.com.

NEW RELEASES

Ever hear someone say, ``It's a monster wine?'' Well, Bennett Family Wines has come up with a syrah, zinfandel and petite sirah blend dubbed The Big Red Monster ($12.99). Information: www.grantusa.com.

New offerings, each $11, from Robert Mondavi Private Selection are a 2005 fume blanc, a 2004 zinfandel and a 2004 syrah. Information: [phone], www.discover-wine.com and www.rmprivateselection.com.

Bubbly with turkey? Might be wise to stock up now with one or more of the nonvintage California sparklers from Chandon at $18 each: the Brut Classic, the pink Blanc de Noirs and the slightly sweet Riche, also the Reserve Brut ($25). Information: [phone]. www.chandon.com.

Acacia now has a second label, A for Acacia, with 2005 chardonnay ($11) and 2005 pinot noir ($17) made with California grapes from various regions. Information: www.acaciavineyard.com.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

[e-mail]