WINE BISTRO IS HOT, HAUTE.Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic Having one of the foremost chefs in Los Angeles in the kitchen certainly raises the stock of a restaurant. This happened to the Wine Bistro in Studio City in November of last year, when Peter Roelant joined the restaurant as executive chef. Roelant, a onetime protege of world-famous chef Fredy Girardet, spent six years at the helm of the haute L'Orangerie kitchen in L.A., then became chef-partner and general manager at the esteemed Four Oaks in Bel-Air. At the Wine Bistro, his cooking skills complement the ``front of the house'' expertise of owner-manager-maitre d' Jean-Bernard Torchon, affectionately known to restaurant regulars as ``J.B.'' Torchon, whose L.A. credits include La Toque, Ma Maison, Lalo & Bros BROS Brothers BROS Benefits and Retirement Operations Section (King County, Washington) BROS Barnes and Richmond Operatic Society (London, UK) ., La Frite and L'Express, became partner in 1994 with Alain Cuny at Cuny's Wine Bistro, taking over full ownership in 2004. In its third decade, the Wine Bistro continues as a hangout of the nearby television and movie studio crowd both at lunchtime and during the dinner hours, always retaining its strong French personality, but now with Roelant's distinctive talent at its stoves. Name: Wine Bistro Address: 11915 Ventura Blvd., Studio City. Phone: (818) 766-6233; www.winebistro.net. Hours: Open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. weekdays except Monday, for dinner from 4:30 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, from 5:30 to 10 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. When we last reviewed: 1999. How long in business: Since September 1978. Menu/cuisine changes: Roelant's new menu appeared in November 2006, described by Torchon as ``upscale bistro.'' It retained old favorites but added such new items as a butternut butternut: see walnut. butternut Deciduous nut-producing tree (Juglans cinerea) of the walnut family, native to eastern North America. A mature tree has gray, deeply furrowed bark. squash soup and a soup du jour to the popular French onion, a young frisee fri·sée n. See endive. [French, from feminine past participle of friser, to curl; see frizz1.] salad, a smoked sturgeon sturgeon, primitive fish of the northern regions of Europe, Asia, and North America. Unlike evolutionarily advanced fishes, it has a fine-grained hide, with very reduced scalation, a mostly cartilaginous skeleton, upturned tail fins, and a mouth set well back on the with red beets appetizer, also crab and shrimp fritters with pineapple-ginger chutney chut·ney n. A pungent relish made of fruits, spices, and herbs. [Hindi ca  n , and a fresh burratta cheese starter. Three new ravioli pastas have been added, including pumpkin and sage. Roelant's new fish entrees are Chinese bass, barbecued swordfish, sauteed sand dabs and horseradish-crusted Atlantic salmon Atlantic salmon Oceanic trout species (Salmo salar), a highly prized game fish. It averages about 12 lbs (5.5 kg) and is marked with round or cross-shaped spots. Found on both sides of the Atlantic Ocean, it enters streams in the fall to spawn. . Bouillabaisse bouil·la·baisse n. 1. A highly seasoned stew made of several kinds of fish and shellfish. 2. A combination of various different, often incongruous elements: a bouillabaisse of special interests. is now an everyday item as is beef bourguignon. Chicken cordon bleu Noun 1. chicken cordon bleu - thin slices of chicken stuffed with cheese and ham and then sauteed dish - a particular item of prepared food; "she prepared a special dish for dinner" , liver and onions Liver and onions is a dish that is currently more common to the southern United States than northern or coastal states. The meal, which once enjoyed a more widespread popularity, could usually be found at family diners and American home-style restaurants. , duck leg confit con·fit n. 1. Meat, such as duck, that has been salted and then cooked and preserved in its own fat. 2. A condiment made by cooking seasoned fruit or vegetables, usually to a jamlike consistency. , bourbon-marinated pork tenderloin and a grilled flatiron steak can now be found on the regular bill of fare. Decor/physical changes: Other than periodic cosmetic improvements, the bar was enlarged three years ago and the boulevard patio enclosed with ficus trees. Personnel changes: Santos Murillo, resident chef since 1996, continues as Roelant's main assistant. Most of the serving staff are French and veterans of L.A.'s finest restaurants. Recommendable dishes: Bouillabaisse, mussels, burratta appetizer, sand dabs, roast chicken (off-menu) or steak frites, filet or New York New York, state, United States New York, Middle Atlantic state of the United States. It is bordered by Vermont, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and the Atlantic Ocean (E), New Jersey and Pennsylvania (S), Lakes Erie and Ontario and the Canadian province of steaks (both off-menu), beef bourguignon, duck leg confit, specials such as Arctic char or Hawaiian moonfish moonfish: see pompano. . Service quality: Seasoned, no-nonsense waiters handle the busy dining room with aplomb night after night. And J.B.'s friendly demeanor is always a plus. Pricing: Main courses in high teens and low $20s, topping out at $23. Most starters under $10. Desserts range from $7.50 to $8.95. Wine list/service: Gradually improving. Good French selection and expanding Californian. Some 21 wines by the glass include two acclaimed vintage 2000 Bordeaux offerings. Also flights of three diner's choice wines available for $15. Corkage: $12. Policies worth mentioning: A special night with a special menu at least once every month includes Valentine's Day, Mardi Gras, Bastille Day and more. A three-course bistro menu with several choices is $27.95. A new bar menu features chef Roelant's French onion tart pissaladiers ($7 to $10) with various toppings. Miscellaneous comments: The all-round, new Wine Bistro has been packed constantly since Roelant came aboard, proving that good French food at reasonable prices is much appreciated. Our latest ratings: food: Three and one half stars - wine: Three stars - service: Three and one half stars CAPTION(S): photo Photo: The Wine Bistro is Studio City, now in its third decade, is still going strong. Owner J.B. Torchon, left, and executive chef Peter Roelant -- who joined the restaurant in November -- display some of its distinctive fare. David Sprague/Staff Photographer |
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