WHILE DISHES SING, TEMPO CAN BE A LITTLE SLOW.Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic We expected Mozart at Amadeus, but we didn't find him. Instead, there was rock music playing through the speakers at this rambling new Beverly Hills restaurant the first night we ate there. So what happened to Mozart? ``We alternate,'' said the waiter. You'd think the next time we'd be lucky. Nope. ``The owner prefers other music,'' said the maitre d' at the second visit. Well, at least Sinatra got some play this time. As for the Mozart theme, it's pretty much missing, outside the several period artworks hanging around the main dining room and some heavy drapes drape v. draped, drap·ing, drapes v.tr. 1. To cover, dress, or hang with or as if with cloth in loose folds: draped the coffin with a flag; a robe that draped her figure. and furnishings. Incidentally, this dining room is in the back of the building, which means that you walk through a deserted lounge and dining area beforehand. Weird. It's all worthwhile if you have deep enough pockets and are just looking for Looking for In the context of general equities, this describing a buy interest in which a dealer is asked to offer stock, often involving a capital commitment. Antithesis of in touch with. good food in a flossy floss·y adj. floss·i·er, floss·i·est 1. Superficially stylish; slick: wrote flossy articles about the lifestyles of the rich. 2. Of, relating to, or resembling floss. setting. Amadeus, on the site of the onetime Bistango, more recently being Greek, Jamaican, eventually a Lebanese restaurant, has, ironically, a chef who worked with talented Claude Segal at Drai's and other restaurants. Segal was, of course, the opening chef at Bistango. And his onetime assistant, Amadeus chef Paul Martel, produces some very appealing dishes. But you pay well for the opportunity to sample them. For example, his oak-roasted sweet corn and garlic soup is delicious. But it'll cost you $7.50. So will a respectable rendition of gazpacho. And his tuna and salmon tartare
Examples are
That's also the tab for a tasty Dungeness crab starter. An ordinary Caesar salad though, sets a diner back a mere $9. You're definitely better off with a nicely done appetizer plate of tender pancetta pan·cet·ta n. Italian bacon that has been cured in salt and spices and then air-dried. [Italian, diminutive of pancia, belly, from Latin pantex, pantic-.] and smoked Gouda cheese ravioli ($9). Main courses are a tad more reasonable, most of them ticketed in the low to mid-$20s. One, a Martel triumph, is lamb ``culotte'' steak flavored with lemon-thyme and paired with Japanese eggplant ($24). Nightly specials may be the way to go here, though. An escolar fish plate ($22) scored well one time, actually rating better than Martel's rather bland whitefish whitefish: see salmon. whitefish Any of several silvery food fishes (family Salmonidae, or Coregonidae), inhabiting cold northern lakes of Europe, Asia, and North America. ($21) that he poaches, flavors with an almost undetectable curry nage and pairs with snow peas. His potato cake that plays second banana to the loin loin (loin) the part of the back between the thorax and pelvis. loin n. The part of the body on either side of the spinal column between the ribs and the pelvis. of pork chop Pork Chop An arrangement on the floor of the NYSE whereby clerks cover the booth of a floor broker and accept orders, phone calls, and associated tasks. Notes: The clerks in charge of maintaining the booths are directly compensated by the floor brokers who own them. ($22) outshines the meat. Yep, that chop was really saved from abysmal dryness by a rich, sweet Madeira reduction. But filet mignon ($24) arrives grilled perfectly, nicely moist and enhanced by such plate companions as daubs of garlicky gar·lick·y adj. Containing, tasting of, or smelling of garlic. Adj. 1. garlicky - relating to or tasting or smelling of garlic; "garlicky sauce" pureed potato, chubby roasted shallots, crisp spears of asparagus and a powerful sauce of shallot-boosted au jus. And though there's partial dryness present, the grilled poussin chicken ($23) dish possesses pretty decent overall flavor and texture. The somewhat lengthy wine list appears, however, to be bereft of bargains, and the corkage cork·age n. A charge exacted at a restaurant for every bottle of liquor served that was not bought on the premises. corkage Noun a charge made at a restaurant for serving wine bought elsewhere fee is $20 per bottle, although advance press material indicates $17. Service can sometimes be spotty - it appeared to be difficult to deliver four menus to a party of four one evening - with entrees taking a much longer time to arrive at our table than at one of recently arrived diners nearby. Amadeus really needs Mozart. His music is oh so comforting. THE FACTS The restaurant: Amadeus Restaurant & Mozart Bar. Where: 133 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills. When: Open for dinner from 6 to 10 p.m. nightly except Sunday and Monday. Recommended items: Tuna and salmon tartare, Dungeness crab with artichoke artichoke, name for two different plants of the family Asteraceae (aster family), both having edible parts. The French, or globe, artichoke (Cynara scolymus , oak-roasted sweet corn and garlic soup, smoked Gouda and pancetta ravioli, grilled filet mignon with pureed garlic potatoes and asparagus, grilled lamb culotte steak with Japanese eggplant. How much: Appetizers and soups from $7.50 to $25, pizzas and salads from $8 to $16, pastas and entrees from $14.50 to $26, desserts are $7.50 each. Full bar. AE, MC, DC, V. Wine list: Well-rounded list of strongly marked-up wines leave nothing much in the mid- to lower $20s. Corkage: $20. Reservations: Helpful. Call (310) 360-1777. Our rating: Three Stars for food; Two Stars for service; Two Stars for wine. CAPTION(S): Photo Photo: Paul Martel is the maestro (a k a the chef) at the new Amadeus Restaurant & Mozart Bar in Beverly Hills. Evan Yee/Daily News |
|
||||||||||||||||||||
Printer friendly
Cite/link
Email
Feedback
Reader Opinion