WHEN IT COMES TO FLAVOR, TOPZ ISN'T QUITE.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

There's no doubt about it, the hamburger ($3.50) at the new Topz fast-food cafe in Sherman Oaks is decidedly different.

But I take exception with those who are genuinely thrilled with the Topz patty, touted as the leanest in America and supposedly possessing (with bun and all) less than 6 percent fat.

Promising that it measures out at only 10 or less grams of fat compared to mainstream burgers with 30 to 45 grams, Topz may entice a segment of the dieting public.

But dieters are often so focused on calories and fat content, they may be more willing to make a sacrifice when it comes to flavor.

Frankly, I don't find this very lean patty to be a particularly tasty piece of meat.

But I love the Topz bun.

The chains have those institutional buns that turn mushy pretty fast.

Topz has a puffy, taller, fresh-tasting bun that retains its texture and is truly a delight to eat.

Consequently, the total package - the wonderful bun and so-so piece of ultra-lean meat together with a daub of caramelized onion, lettuce, tomato and a splotch or two of Dijon mustard (from the intriguing Topz sauce bar) - provides a passable, if not noteworthy, sandwich.

And I don't doubt that certain strongly will-powered, beef-starved, dedicated dieters probably will love the opportunity to eat real red meat instead of a veggie or turkey burger.

But Topz happily accommodates those who despise the notion of putting red meat into their mouths by having both veggie and turkey burgers ready and waiting.

The garden burger ($3.95), as it's called, producing the same 10 grams of fat as the real burger and actually at 480 calories, 40 higher than the beef version, doesn't even remotely resemble anything meaty. Perhaps it's not supposed to. Anyway, it's nothing I'd drive a long way for.

Actually, if veggies were my thing, I would tend to seek out a good grilled veggie sandwich rather than a faux burger.

As for the turkey burger (12 grams, 420 calories, $3.95), though moist and properly cooked, it tastes about as bland to me as any other turkey burger.

Actually, the best burger here isn't a burger at all, but a grilled chicken breast sandwich ($4.50) served on a bun like a burger (430 calories with 11 fat grams).

And the Topz concept people, obviously addressing the possibility of being on the blandwagon, have come up with some sensible remedies, the chief one being a sauce bar.

You can add cheese for 25 cents, chili for 75 cents, thick-cut bacon and/or an extra patty for $1 each or ``the works'' for $1.75.

And although they're termed dipping sauces and promoted on the menu as accompaniments to fries, there's no question that they give patrons the opportunity to add a bit of zing and zest to their sandwich.

Two types of ketchup, two types of mustard, garlic mayonnaise, barbecue sauce, teriyaki sauce, ranch dressing and bleu cheese dressing are available in squirt-plungers at the sauce bar. Tiny plastic cups may be used to take samples to your table or home if it's a takeout order.

As for the fries ($1.50 each), Topz produces sea-salted ones that make you want to drink your beverage faster and an air-fried version that have slightly less flavor, which isn't important because of those sauces. Both, though, possess acceptable crispness.

Of the two salads ($4.25 each) listed on the menu, a finely chopped salad featuring tiny pieces of salami, turkey, cheese and chickpeas in a light vinaigrette is preferred over the mundane house Caesar.

You receive a bonus with the house hot dog here. It's really a couple of snappy, tasty low-fat, all-beef frankfurters ($2.95) served Chicago-style, quite the gratifying snack at 520 calories with 25 fat grams.

And though a mocha sorbet smoothie ($2.95) needs a shot of chocolate from the nifty Topz soda bar syrup selection to bring out some flavor intensity, it does leave a refreshing taste in the mouth.

Add that equally refreshing feeling that you've eaten ``healthily'' even if you're not smitten by great tastes, as you depart from Topz.

THE FACTS

The restaurant: Topz.

Where: 14622 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

Phone: [phone].

When: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, to midnight Friday and Saturday.

Recommended items: Chicken breast burger-style, french or air fries, low-fat beef dog.

Children's menu: Three items ($2.50 each) served with air fries and a drink: hamburger, hot dog or grilled cheese.

How much: Everything under $5.

Our rating: Two stars for food.

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Photo

Photo: Dieters may find satisfaction in a Mile-High Burger, fries and a berry smoothie at Topz.

Shaun Dyer/Special to the Daily News