WHEN IN ROMAN'S, ENJOY AT SHERMAN OAKS SANDWICH SHOP, HEROES WILL RISE.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

THE SANDWICH may be king at the new Roman's restaurant in Sherman Oaks, but there's a lot more to consider at this bright and airy new fast-food concept.

First of all, Roman's has its own bakery on the premises and bakes its own breads fresh daily for its multitude of sandwiches - along with pies, cakes, tarts and other dessert treats.

Secondly, Roman's slow roasts the best tri-tip tasted in years. And the powers that be here must know it because you'll find tri-tip in soup, in salad, in wraps, in sandwiches and as an entree-style plate.

My first encounter with the tri-tip came with Roman's country salad ($7.50), a flavorful and generously portioned melange of torn lettuce tossed with juicy, tender chunks of tri-tip roast, diced tomatoes, cucumber, tiny crouton rounds, beans, bacon and a sweetish dressing. For red-meat haters, charbroiled chicken breast can be substituted for the tri- tip.

Of course with this salad dish there's no need to partake of the mini salad bar here, offered with any food order. But you can if you want to.

Incidentally, the bar is modeled somewhat after those salsa bars seen in the latest fresh-Mex cafes, displaying jalapenos, cherry peppers, a spicy tomato-cilantro salsa and pepperoncinis along with cubed and vinegared cucumber, peanutty cole slaw, a tasty shredded carrot salad sprinkled with white raisins, a respectable three-bean salad and sliced dill pickles.

Roman's provides its own mustard mix, its own French fry dipping sauce, peppercorn steak sauce, Cajun sauce, lime-cilantro sauce, tahini-basil sauce, gorgonzola sauce, barbecue sauce, lemon-garlic sauce, au jus dip and if you order the bargain premises-cured lox plate ($7.95) here, a small container of tangy lemon-caper sauce.

Other plates, black plastic ones that hold Roman's four entree selections, come with a choice of two sides (a beany chili, well-seasoned fries, salad or rice) and a choice of four sauces (peppercorn, barbecue, gorgonzola or lemon-garlic).

The sliced tri-tip ($8.95) is obviously Roman's premier dinner item. I've also tried the meatloaf ($7.95), which is seasoned with subtlety and is thick, tender and moist.

Baked fresh in view, the flatbread here, used in wrap and ``pressed'' sandwiches, works wonderfully well in the novel Stroganoff wrap ($7.50) a fulfilling, savory creation utilizing that superb tri-tip of beef with onions, mushrooms, mozzarella and a sour cream sauce.

One day I picked the Portofino ($7.50), one of Roman's ``healthy choice,'' sandwiches. Made with the fresh, crusty house ciabatta, it's an oozing and very flavorful sandwich spread with a black olive-basil pesto, a hefty slab of buffalo mozzarella, tomato, roasted red pepper and a touch of garlic-pepper sauce.

And Roman's charbroils a darn good, slightly smoky hamburger ($5.95) in a toasted roll with lettuce, onion, tomato and best with the gorgonzola sauce accompaniment.

If you have room for something sweet as an ending, check out the pastries (wonderful opera cake, fruity mini cobblers, nifty fruit danishes) in the adjacent coffee bar and bakery shop (soon to serve pizzas as well).

Minor problem is you have to get your coffee and pastry order separately.

Roman's keeps its prices down with limited service - you order and pay at the counter, wait for your number to be called, then get the tray yourself - and food served on disposable plates.

Additional condiments, drinks, napkins and plastic flatware are also in the self-service area.

But with food this good and this low-priced ($5.50 to $8.95), perhaps the lack of service doesn't really matter.

Friends and countrymen, lend me your ears. Try Roman's - you, too, will praise it.

ROMAN'S WORLD OF SANDWICHES

Food: - Three and one half stars

Where: 15100 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

Hours: Open for breakfast snacks from 7 to 11 a.m. daily (bakery and coffee bar only), for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays, to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays.

Recommended items: Chicken vegetable and tri-tip soups, country salad, Stroganoff wrap, classic burger, tri-tip steak plate, grilled meatloaf plate, lox plate, Portofino sandwich, opera cake, cobblers, danishes.

How much: Everything under $9.

Wine list: No list. Limited to mini bottles of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, chardonnay and white zinfandel ($2.75 to $3.75). Also bottled beers. Plastic cups only.

Reservations: Not appropriate here. First come, first served policy via line at counter. Information and takeout orders, [phone].

CAPTION(S):

2 photos

Photo:

(1 -- 2) Owner Roman Shishalovsky, center, and managers Michael Iovino, left, and John Giaccardi offer an assortment of dishes that includes the Mediterranean steak sandwich, above, at Roman's in Sherman Oaks.

Joe Binoya/Special to the Daily News