WHEN IN PERU, DO AS THE PERUVIANS DO - EAT CHINESE FOOD.Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic 'THEY SAY PERU Peru, country, South America Peru (pər  `), Span. Perú (pār HAS the best Chinese food in the
world,'' insists Jose Pepe Leon, the owner-host of Jose
Antonio, a new Peruvian and Peruvian-Chinese restaurant in Chatsworth.
So strong is its influence in Peru, the ``Chifa,'' or Chinese food there, is an integral part of the national cuisine. ``Chaufa'' (the name for fried-rice recipes) and ``tallarin'' (noodles noo·dle 1 n. A narrow, ribbonlike strip of dried dough, usually made of flour, eggs, and water. [German Nudel. , be they spaghetti or chow mein) appear on almost every Peruvian menu. Here at Jose Antonio, previously the site of the Golden Duck A Golden duck may refer to:
Starters, other than a couple of very good Chinese-style wonton soups called sopa wantan and one fried wonton plate ($4.95) - I like the pork soup option ($7.95) - are strictly Peruvian. Shareable bowls of delicious sopa de la casa La casa (Spanish for The House) is a 1954 novel by Manuel Mujica Laínez. It tells the story of a family living in a stately Buenos Aires mansion from the heyday of Argentina's oligarchy in the 1880s to some time in the post-1946 period, the era of Peronist populism, ($5.95) with noodles, potatoes, corn and either beef or chicken, and sopa a la minuta ($6.95), a rich milky mixture also available with beef or chicken, provide satisfying beginnings. And you won't go wrong by sampling a cool, refreshing ceviche ce·vi·che or se·vi·che n. Raw fish marinated in lime or lemon juice with olive oil and spices and served as an appetizer. [American Spanish, from Spanish cebiche, fish stew, from dish to kick off your meal here. The seafood and fish ``mixto'' rendition ($9.75) is not only one of the best-tasting ceviches you'll ever experience, it also points out how wonderful calamari can be in a Peruvian ``cebiche,'' as it's pronounced in Peru; absolutely texture-perfect. The kitchen here also does a good job with a cold, lemony, marinated mussels appetizer ($7.95) and makes a respectable Peruvian tamal ($4.95) stuffed with either chicken or pork. Incidentally, a marvelous beverage accompaniment, especially if you partake of any of Jose Antonio's fiery chile sauces, is the Cusquena Negra ($3.95), an astoundingly full-flavored, dark Peruvian beer. Peru's traditional lomo saltado ($9.50), considered a signature dish A signature dish is a recipe that identifies an individual chef. Ideally it should be unique and allow an informed gastronome to name the chef in a blind tasting. It can be thought of as the culinary equivalent of an artist finding their own style, or an author finding their own here, arrives prepared with sauteed top sirloin The Top Sirloin is cut from the loin of a steer or heifer. Top Sirlon steaks differ from sirloin steaks in that the bone and the tenderlon have been removed. Some American butchers call a thick top sirloin steak a chateaubriand, although the French reserve that term for a much better cut strips, tomatoes, onions, soft french fries and includes a sizable rice accompaniment. Homey and satisfying, this is probably the most recommendable dish for those who've never eaten Peruvian food. For those who can't resist trying a Peruvian Chinese main course, I suggest the combo Chino Chino (chē`nō), city (1990 pop. 59,682), San Bernardino co., S Calif.; founded 1887, inc. 1910. It is the business and processing center of a diversified farming (notably dairying) area. ($13.95) which combines the best of Jose Antonio's fried rice and chow mein-type noodles with pork, shrimp and chicken. Add a little aji chile sauce to this and you have a sort of hot Peruvian-mandarin melange mé·lange also me·lange n. A mixture: "[a] building crowned with a mélange of antennae and satellite dishes" Howard Kaplan. . Which may need a touch of cooling lucuma (an Andes fruit) ice cream ($3.50) as an ending. Larry Lipson, (818) 713-3668 larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com JOSE ANTONIO Food: Three stars - Service: Three stars - Wine: One star Where: 20951 Devonshire St., Chatsworth. Phone: (818) 717-8900. Meals/hours: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily except Monday. Luncheon specials served from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. Peruvian breakfasts from 10 a.m. to noon Saturday and Sunday. Food type: Peruvian/Chinese. Cost: Starters and sides from $2.50 to $12 (several shareable), entrees from $9 to $13, desserts $3.50 each. Credit cards: All major. Patio dining: No. Parking/valet: Free in shared lot. Full bar: No. Beer and wine only. Wine/corkage: Small list of nine Peruvian bottlings at $18.50 per bottle, $4.25 per glass. Corkage cork·age n. A charge exacted at a restaurant for every bottle of liquor served that was not bought on the premises. corkage Noun a charge made at a restaurant for serving wine bought elsewhere : $12. Music/entertainment: No. Takeout/delivery: Full-menu takeout Takeout A financing to refinance or take out another loan. service and delivery ($3.50 charge) within five miles. Reservations: Taken. CAPTION(S): photo Photo: At Jose Antonio in Chatsworth, the Peruvian fare has a strong Chinese influence, just as it does in the owner's home country. David Sprague/Staff Photographer |
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