WHARF AND REMEMBRANCE IN SANTA BARBARA, HISTORY REMAINS VITAL AT THIS PIER WITHOUT PEER.

Byline: Story and photos by Eric Noland Travel Editor

SANTA BARBARA - ON MOST SUMMER afternoons, as roller-skaters clatter over the wood planks, fishermen check their lines hopefully and brown pelicans glide noiselessly overhead, Stearns Wharf offers little clue of the tumult in its past.

In fact, it has stood defiantly at the foot of State Street for 130 years now, holding its own against disasters both natural and unnatural. Constructed in 1872 so that lumber could more easily be loaded onto ships, it was only 6 years old when a vicious storm struck the Santa Barbara harbor and hurled a disabled Chinese junk into the structure, reducing much of it to toothpicks.

The years that followed would bring many more ocean storms, a tornado, four major fires, a major earthquake, an El Nino and perhaps the most ominous development of all - threatened obsolescence when railroad shipping gained dominance late in the 19th century.

Stearns Wharf's obstinacy is the visitor's gain today. It exists solely for tourism, and what a pleasant experience it provides.

Visitors can walk far out onto the bay on the oldest working wooden wharf in California (it is 2,300 feet long and features 3.8 acres of decking). Or, if you're really lazy, you can even drive out on it - the rare pier that is wide enough to permit vehicles to rumble over its planks to reach the sprinkling of commercial establishments at its center.

Restaurants and casual eateries have great views, open-air patios or both. There are gift shops, candy and ice cream merchants, even a palm reader. You can catch a whale-watching boat.

Or you can drop a line in the water. That's what Amade Nyirak of Thousand Oaks was doing on a recent weekday afternoon. ``Last time I was here, I caught a buttermilk rainbow perch - orange belly, neon-blue sides,'' he said while baiting a hook at the extreme end of the pier, the only place where fishing is permitted. ``Personally, I don't eat anything outside of salmon. I just like to fish.''

The endeavor is easy enough to undertake. Angel's Bait 'N Tackle, near the end of the pier, will rent you a rod and provide bait gratis for $5 an hour. No license is required to fish from the pier, which greatly minimizes the bureaucratic fuss.

Angel's will also sell you a crab net - $24 with rope. To catch the rock crabs that crawl around the pier, you put a piece of fish or a fish head in the net - ``or even a chicken leg,'' said clerk Joe Vargas; ``they go for anything'' - and pitch it over the side.

Even without engaging in such exertions, you'll probably find the end of the wharf an inviting place. Huge round timbers are lashed to the deck with chains, providing makeshift seating. Sailboats and other pleasure craft bob past on their way in and out of the harbor. And there is nothing to impede the view, since there are no safety railings out here at the tip of the pier (parents of young ones should be duly alerted).

The points of the compass are painted on the pier deck, and you'll notice that the coastline here runs east-west. Also peppered throughout the wharf are interpretative signs, providing information on marine ecology, birds, whales, the Channel Islands and American Indian culture of the region.

If you're inclined to get out on the water to see some of the marine life, climb aboard a tour boat at Captain Don's. A hand-lettered sign posted there a few days ago noted that the most recent whale-watch trip had logged sightings of ``12 humpbacks and lots of dolphins.'' The whale watch is priced at $65 for adults, $40 for children. Details: [phone].

Or you can have a marine life encounter with fork and drawn butter. We couldn't help but notice the live crabs scrambling atop one another in a tank in the window of the Santa Barbara Shellfish Co. This wonderful little lunch counter is flourishing again after being a casualty of a spectacular wharf fire in November 1998. The blaze consumed about one-fifth of Stearns Wharf, and the restoration effort required two years.

On the day of our visit, the Santa Barbara Shellfish Co. was running a special obviously aimed at hearty appetites: 3 pounds of steamed local crab, a cup of chowder and a Caesar salad for $23.

I opted instead for a single crab ($13.50), mercifully served with much of the shell-cracking already done - although you're issued the necessary implements to extract succulent morsels. The crabmeat was tasty and perfectly cooked, complemented with cole slaw, onion rings and a Santa Barbara Blonde (a local microbrew, not a girl). The view of the marina through west-facing windows made for an ideal setting.

Another good lunch option is Longboard's Grill, primarily because of its sun-washed patio on the second floor and simple, burgers-and-fries menu.

SANTA BARBARA'S STEARNS WHARF

Where: The wharf is at the foot of State Street, where State crosses Cabrillo Boulevard. For the most scenic route, exit the northbound 101 Freeway at Cabrillo, turn left and cruise along the waterfront to the wharf.

Parking: There are a limited number of parking spaces on the wharf itself. Cost is $2 per hour, although the first 90 minutes are free with a merchant validation. Another option is a public lot that fronts the beach at Garden Street and Cabrillo Boulevard. It costs $1 per hour to a maximum of $7.

Sea Center: The popular marine museum on the wharf is closed for renovations, not scheduled to reopen until next summer.

Information: Stearns Wharf maintains a bare-bones Web site at www.stearnswharf.org, but the site at least includes information on the 17 businesses that call the wharf home.

CAPTION(S):

3 photos

Photo:

(1) Stearns Wharf in Santa Barbara, built in 1872 to help transport lumber, has persevered through severe weather and the rise of the rails. Today it exists solely as a tourist attraction.

(2 -- 3) Patrons at Longboard's Grill pass the time and soak up the sun on the restaurant's outdoor dining patio. At the end of the wharf, right, anglers drop their lines, hoping to catch a perch or - if they're really lucky - a halibut.