WELCOME YEAR OF THE RAM THE CHINOIS WAY.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Welcome the Chinese year of the ram (also referred to as year of the goat or sheep) with the two-week celebration that begins Saturday.

To get into the act and have some fun, create a fabulous feast at home with our replica creations inspired by dishes on the menu at Chinois on Main, the 20-year-old Santa Monica restaurant that is the brainchild of Wolfgang Puck and Barbara Lazaroff.

With a little help from Luis Diaz, executive chef, and Bella Lantsman, general manager and partner, we've duplicated a salad, two entrees, a rice dish, stir-fry vegetables and a dessert. We've taken a few shortcuts, deleted hard-to-find ingredients (like daikon radish greens and chuka salad, a seasoned seaweed and agar-agar mixture) and in some instances substituted others with a little guidance from Diaz while still attempting

to keep the essence of the restaurant original.

``The food at Chinois is French Chinese, Asian inspired,'' notes Lantsman. ``It's always been Wolfgang's version of Chinese food.'' The classics and most popular dishes - Chinois chicken salad, curried oysters, Cantonese duck, Szechwan beef, Mongolian lamb chops, whole sizzling catfish and barbecued baby pork ribs - have been on the menu since the restaurant opened. Some of the newer additions, inspired by Diaz, include macadamia crust tuna, braised pork hot pot, lobster spring rolls, steamed seafood potstickers and Chinois-style quail.

Diaz has been cooking at the restaurant for 17 years - working first as a line cook, then as a sous chef and moving up to executive chef in 1997. The self-taught El Salvador native, who resides in Granada Hills, loves cooking Asian food along with French and Italian - and enjoys experimenting and trying new Asian ingredients and combinations. He changes some of the menu items seasonally and offers daily specials, to the delight of diners.

Beyond using top-quality fresh ingredients, Diaz's philosophy about cooking revolves around flavor and presentation. The food must look beautiful on the plate and taste good, too.

When you stir-fry at home, have everything cut, assembled and ready to cook for best results. Diaz prefers using peanut oil - and a minimal amount - in his cooking as it can withstand a higher temperature than many other oils.

Tasters raved about our copycat version of the Szechwan beef. Be sure to use shallots - they make the sauce something different and special. The macadamia crusted tuna was another hit. For winning side dishes (the two together could make a meal), give the stir-fried vegetables and vegetable fried rice a try. Both are cooked in a jiffy once the vegetables are chopped, providing that the rice is cooked and chilled a day or two in advance.

For the dessert finale, serve apple spring rolls. They take a little time and patience but aren't difficult once you get the knack. You can roll them up to an hour in advance of frying. Instead of making caramel sauce from scratch, use store-bought (heated in the microwave, without the lid, until warm). Serve with ice cream alongside for a fabulous finish.

Pick and choose dishes as your schedule will allow for Chinese New Year or next time you're in the mood for Chinese fare. Fill in with store-bought items as necessary to complete the meal. Gung Hay Fat Choy!

CHICKEN SALAD CHINOIS STYLE

3 cups julienne strips cooked chicken breast (about 3 half breasts, 1 1/4 pounds)

6 cups julienne strips napa cabbage (about 1 medium cabbage; reserve a few small whole leaves to garnish each plate)

3 cups torn up mixed greens (a mixture of radicchio, frisee and mustard greens OR other greens)

Sesame Mustard Vinaigrette

12 (3 1/2-inch squares) won ton skins, cut into thin strips and fried several at a time in hot oil until golden; drained on paper towels

1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds (optional)

In a large bowl, combine chicken, cabbage and greens. Mix together. Add Sesame Mustard Vinaigrette and toss until all ingredients are coated. Mound salad in center of individual serving plates and garnish with small whole cabbage leaves. Top salads with a sprinkling of fried won ton skins; sprinkle with a few sesame seeds, if desired. Makes 3 to 4 main-dish servings or 5 to 6 smaller appetizer servings.

SESAME MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE: In a small bowl, combine 1 tablespoon dry mustard (Coleman's), 1/4 cup rice vinegar, 1 tablespoon sesame oil, 1 teaspoon light soy sauce, 1/4 cup peanut OR vegetable oil, 1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon sugar and salt and pepper to taste, whisking until smooth. Whisk in 1 to 2 tablespoons whipping cream, if desired. Makes about 1/2 cup.

SZECHWAN BEEF WITH HOT CHILI OIL AND CILANTRO SHALLOT SAUCE

2 tablespoons sesame oil

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger OR 1/2 teaspoon powdered ginger

2 cloves garlic, pressed

2 tablespoons chopped green onions

Red chili pepper flakes

2 (10- to 12-ounce) beef fillets

1 tablespoon peanut oil

6 large shallots, sliced

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro

1/4 cup chicken broth

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

1/4 cup mirin (sweet rice wine)

2 teaspoons butter

Mixed salad greens tossed with store-bought miso dressing

For marinade, in a 11x7-inch rectangular glass baking dish combine sesame oil, 1/2 teaspoon chopped ginger (OR 1/4 teaspoon powdered), 1 clove pressed garlic, green onions and a few sprinkles of chili flakes; mix well. Add beef, turn to coat both sides and marinate in mixture 10 to 15 minutes. Grill beef until medium rare, then rest a few minutes.

Meanwhile prepare sauce: In a large skillet, heat peanut oil until hot. Add shallots, remaining 1/2 teaspoon chopped ginger (OR remaining 1/4 teaspoon powdered), remaining clove pressed garlic, few sprinkles chili flakes and cilantro; cook, stirring, over high heat, 3 to 4 minutes until shallots are very tender. Stir in chicken broth, soy sauce and mirin. Continue cooking, stirring often, over high heat until reduced by about half and thickened. Whisk in butter.

On a cutting board, slice beef into 3/4-inch thick slices. Keep slices together to resemble original whole steak; place each fillet on a dinner plate. Top steaks with shallot sauce, dividing evenly. Serve with mixed greens on the side. Makes 2 servings.

MACADAMIA CRUSTED TUNA

4 (6- to 7-ounce) tuna steaks (albacore OR ahi), each about 3/4- to 1-inch thick, rinsed and patted dry with paper towels

1/4 cup flour

1 egg, beaten

1 cup chopped unsalted macadamia nuts

1/2 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 cup julienned strips asparagus, steamed, covered with plastic wrap, in microwave oven 1 minute

1 cup julienned strips OR shredded carrots, steamed, covered with plastic wrap, in microwave oven 1 minute

1/2 cup julienned strips leeks (both white and green parts)

1/2 cup julienned strips red pepper

1/3 cup julienned strips green onions

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons honey

Mixed salad greens tossed with your favorite Asian dressing

Dip tuna steaks in flour, then in beaten egg, coating completely. Roll in nuts mixed with ginger, coating completely. In a large skillet or grill pan, heat peanut oil until very hot. Add steaks and cook until medium rare or to desired degree of doneness, turning once (or more if necessary).

Meanwhile, mix together asparagus and carrot strips. Divide mixture evenly among 4 dinner plates. Mix together leeks, red pepper strips and green onions. For sauce, mix together soy sauce, lemon juice and honey until well blended.

Place tuna steaks atop vegetables on plates (cut into slices, if desired). Sprinkle top of each with some of leek mixture and then drizzle with some of sauce, dividing evenly. Serve immediately with mixed greens on the side. Makes 4 servings.

STIR-FRIED VEGETABLES

2 tablespoons peanut oil

2 cups snow peas, halved crosswise

2 cups small broccoli pieces

2 cups chunky pieces napa cabbage

2 cups 1-inch pieces asparagus

2 cups 3/4- to 1-inch squares red, green AND/OR yellow bell pepper pieces (one color OR a combination of colors)

3 tablespoons chicken broth

1 tablespoon soy sauce

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

In a large wok, heat peanut oil until very hot. Add vegetables and stir-fry over high heat about 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 minutes or until tender crisp. Add broth, soy sauce, salt and pepper and cook over high heat 1 to 2 minutes more. Serve immediately. Makes 4 or more servings.

VEGETABLE FRIED RICE CHINOIS STYLE

2 tablespoons peanut oil

4 cups cooked long grain white rice, chilled

1/2 cup EACH finely chopped asparagus, snow peas, shiitake mushrooms, broccoli and red pepper

1/2 cup white corn kernels

1 egg

2 tablespoons soy sauce (light, if desired)

Salt and pepper to taste

In a large wok, heat oil until very hot; swirl oil around sides of wok. Add rice and stir-fry 1 to 2 minutes, until rice is broken up. Add vegetables and and stir-fry 2 minutes. Beat egg until well blended and drizzle around sides of oiled wok. Stir-fry about 2 to 3 minutes until egg is cooked, incorporated into rice mixture and mixture is very hot. Stir in soy sauce and salt and pepper to taste, mixing well, until hot. Makes 4 or more servings.

APPLE SPRING ROLLS WITH CARAMEL SAUCE

(On the cover)

1 tablespoon butter

1/3 cup packed light brown sugar

2 large Granny Smith apples, peeled and chopped (about 3 cups)

1/3 cup golden raisins

8 (6 1/2-inch) square spring roll wrappers

Water

Peanut oil heated until hot for frying

Caramel sauce (store-bought OR homemade) with a few splashes of rum stirred in, if desired

Vanilla ice cream

Powdered sugar for sprinkling tops and 4 large strawberries for garnish

In a large skillet, heat butter until melted. Add brown sugar and cook over high heat 1 minute. Add apples and raisins and cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until apples are caramelized, tender and liquid is evaporated, about 5 to 6 minutes. Cool completely.

Just before serving (or up to an hour before serving), lay out a spring roll wrapper on the diagonal with one corner pointing toward you. Place a generous tablespoon apple mixture in a narrow strip across bottom of wrapper near point. Start rolling up and after a couple of rolls, fold in edges on two opposite sides. Continue rolling up. When almost finished rolling, moisten the point away from you with a little water to seal. Continue to make filled rolls until you have 8.

Fry rolls, two at a time, in 2 inches hot peanut oil in a medium saucepan until golden, turning often, about 2 to 3 minutes. Remove to plate lined with paper towels. When all rolls have been cooked, cut each roll in half diagonally and serve 4 halves per serving with a little caramel sauce and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Sprinkle rolls with powdered sugar. Garnish plates with a sliced, fanned out, fresh strawberry. Makes 8 spring rolls; 4 servings.

Are you ram-born?

Saturday ushers in the year of the ram on the Chinese calendar. The Chinese zodiac is centered around 12 animals, and according to Chinese lore, personality traits are influenced by the animal ruling the year in which a person is born. Individuals born in ram years (1991, 1979, 1967, 1955, 1943, 1931 and 1919) tend to be compassionate, gentle, sincere, generous and shy. Frequently well-loved by associates, these individuals are often pessimistic about life.

CAPTION(S):

6 photos, box

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) Apple Spring Rolls

Photographed at Chinois on Main, Santa Monica

(2 -- color) SZECHWAN BEEF WITH HOT CHILI OIL AND CILANTRO SHALLOT SAUCE

(3 -- color) VEGETABL FRIED RICE CHINOIS STYLE

STIR-FRIED VEGETABLES

(4 -- color) Luis Diaz executive chef at Chinois on Main

(5 -- color) MACADAMIA CRUSTED TUNA

(6) CHICKEN SALAD CHINOIS STYLE

John McCoy/Staff Photographer

Box:

Are you ram-born? (see text)