WANNA BET? LAUGHLIN OFFERS INEXPENSIVE, LAID-BACK ALTERNATIVE TO VEGAS.

Byline: Scott Mandel Special to the Daily News

How often do you just want to get away for a quiet, stress-free weekend and find yourself in Las Vegas? Unfortunately, the relaxation comes with two-hour check-in lines, food and lodging prices more than double what you paid 10 to 15 years ago and a commuting nightmare when trying to travel from one hotel to another.

However, there is an alternative close by - a relaxing getaway spot that reminds one of what Vegas was back in the '60s - Laughlin, Nev.

Laughlin is a small, quiet gambling resort on the Colorado River. It has everything Las Vegas has to offer except for the variety of stage shows and ``star'' attractions, which are presented on a smaller scale. The full complement of gaming is available. However, Laughlin's strongest selling point is the fun of the Colorado River.

There are only a dozen or so hotels on the Laughlin ``strip,'' and unlike Vegas, they are within walking distance of one another. Most are connected by a beautiful pedestrian path called the Riverwalk, which takes you right along the Colorado River. A bus route also travels the entire hotel circuit every 20 to 30 minutes. A third, unique commuting choice is taking a water taxi along the river. Both the bus and boat transport are available for a nominal fee.

Hotels in Laughlin are not as glamorous as some of the top spots in Las Vegas, but they are pleasant, clean, friendly and inexpensive. Depending on the season, a weekend room will generally run in the range of $35 to $55 a night while a weekday room will be in the $17 to $25 range.

One of the greatest features of these hotels is their lack of burgeoning crowds. Check-in - even on a Friday at the busiest times - usually takes no more than 10 to 20 minutes. Waiting times for hotel buffets and restaurants are generally five to 15 minutes - and even in peak periods rarely more than half an hour. That's a far cry from the 60- to 90-minute wait recently experienced on a Las Vegas jaunt. The hotel staffs and personnel in Laughlin give you a friendly ``down-home'' feeling, and the rooms and facilities are neat and clean.

The hotel casinos in Laughlin generally fall into two categories: ``upscale'' Vegas-type transplants, such as the Flamingo Hilton and Harrah's, and everyone else's personal favorites. The Flamingo Hilton and Harrah's are a little fancier and more expensive than the others, but are still closer to the Laughlin laid-back culture than their Vegas counterparts.

The Riverside Hotel, the first hotel built in the area, is now owned by Don Laughlin. A favorite of the locals, the hotel caters mostly to an older crowd. However, even if you're not staying there, the Riverside is definitely a place to visit, not only for its first-run movie theaters, but also for its Laughlin history exhibit and antique car collection.

Another favorite of the locals is the Golden Nugget. With its jungle motif, it has more Laughlin flavor than its more glamorous namesake in Las Vegas. Inside, you will find Tarzan's - currently the hottest dance spot in Laughlin.

Two of the most popular hotels are the Colorado Belle and the Edgewater. Both are owned by Circus Circus and situated next to each other in the middle of the strip. The central location makes them ideal bases from which to visit Laughlin on foot.

Places to eat

Food in Laughlin is plentiful, good and half the price of its Las Vegas counterpart. Every hotel has a buffet, although some are significantly better than others. The buffets generally run about $2 to $3 for breakfast, $3 to $4 for lunch and $4 to $6 for dinner. I have found the most consistent and best-quality buffets to be the breakfast buffet at the Ramada Express, and the lunch and dinner buffets at the Flamingo Hilton. Wherever you choose, be advised that the quality of restaurants and buffets within the same hotel can vary greatly.

For a formal sit-down dinner, there are several excellent choices. The Flamingo Hilton offers the Alta Villa, rated one of the top 50 Italian restaurants in the United States. A full meal at the Alta Villa will run $20 to $40 per person.

Perhaps a little less expensive is the William Fisk Steakhouse at Harrah's. This restaurant offers excellent steaks and a beautiful view of the Colorado River - a stunning setting, especially at sunset. Prices will range from $15 to $25 per person, depending on selections.

If you want a good old-fashioned, prime-rib meal at a fabulous price, head for the Garden Room at the Edgewater. A delicious, tender, 1-pound prime-rib dinner that comes with potato, vegetable, salad and bread is only $5.99.

For terrific individual pizzas and great sandwiches and salads, Jane's at the Golden Nugget is the place to visit.

Finally, one of the culinary treats of Laughlin is the special Sunday brunch buffet at Granny's, inside the Pioneer Hotel. A bit pricey at $19.95 per person, the selection and quality are phenomenal, with every type of breakfast entree imaginable, including fresh seafood, omelets and waffles. A Sunday buffet of this quality in Las Vegas would easily cost double. Reservations are highly recommended (call at least a few days in advance), and a must at peak vacation periods.

Although Laughlin doesn't offer as wide a variety of activities as Vegas, there are still plenty of things for nongamblers to do. The most popular summertime activity is playing on the river. Jet Skis and boats are available for rental at reasonable rates, and boat rides will take you on one- to six-hour tours of the river. Fishing is readily available, but unfortunately, swimming in the river is limited to the private beach at Harrah's (although every hotel offers full pool facilities).

For those who want to get out of the sun, there are two first-run theater multiplexes within walking distance. One is in the Riverside Hotel at the end of the strip, and the other is across the street from the Edgewater and Flamingo Hilton in the Horizon Outlet Mall. Both offer THX sound and an admission price in the $5 range - significantly lower than one would pay in Los Angeles. In addition, screenings start around 8 to 9 a.m. and continue well past midnight.

Shoppers will be in paradise in the Horizon Outlet Mall in the center of the strip. It has 50 stores (including Ralph Lauren Polo, Mikasa, Linen Barn, Leather Loft, Oshkosh B'Gosh to name a few) offering a wide range of goods at excellent prices - and includes a full food court.

For those who want to explore the area, take a short excursion to the amazing London Bridge at Lake Havasu City, approximately one hour from Laughlin by car - a two-hour boat trip from the hotels (the entire river excursion will run six hours). This is the original London Bridge, transported to the site piece by piece and reassembled in its original condition. A ``London Town'' of shops has been constructed at its location. Although exceedingly touristy, it is still fun to visit.

If you are looking for a close, relaxing getaway without the crowds and cost of Las Vegas, Laughlin may be a good destination choice. The town offers all of the gaming and food of Vegas at half of the price and a fraction of the hassle. Although Laughlin does not offer the glitz or the shows that one finds on the Vegas strip, it makes up for it in its laid-back, friendly atmosphere and the beauty of the Colorado River. It may not be the place to spend an entire week unless you are heavily into water sports and Jet Skis, but it is a fabulous two- to three-day or weekend escape from the stress of the city.

IF YOU GO ?

Getting to Laughlin:

Laughlin is virtually the same distance from Los Angeles as Las Vegas. Take the same route as though heading to Vegas (I-15) until you reach Barstow. There, instead of continuing north on I-15, travel east on I-40 toward Needles. Make any restroom and gas stops before you leave Barstow because about a half-hour outside of Barstow begins a 72-mile stretch of desert with no services offered whatsoever.

Just before you reach Needles, exit at the River Road cutoff, and follow the signs to Laughlin. You will travel about 20 minutes on a scenic river route before you reach the Laughlin strip.

Depending upon where you live in the Valley or Los Angeles and your average driving speed, the entire trip should take about 4 1/2 to 5 hours - slightly more if you leave Los Angeles during Friday rush hour traffic.

Traveling:

During the summer months, it is best to drive to Laughlin in the early morning or early evening to avoid the desert heat.

Climate:

The climate of Laughlin is comparable to Palm Springs. During the winter, expect daytime temperatures in the 70s and 80s. In the summer, daytime temperatures may climb as high as 115 degrees.

Airline service:

No airline service is available direct to Laughlin from Los Angeles or Burbank. America West Express offers scheduled flights to Laughlin out of Phoenix. Check with your travel agent.

Lodging:

Bay Shore Inn [phone].

Colorado Belle Hotel and Casino [phone].

Edgewater Hotel and Casino [phone]

Pioneer Hotel and Casino [phone].

Harrah's Laughlin Casino Hotel [phone].

Don Laughlin's Riverside Resort Hotel and Casino [phone].

Gold River Resort Hotel and Casino [phone].

Golden Nugget Laughlin [phone].

Flamingo Hilton Laughlin [phone].

Ramada Express Hotel and Casino [phone].

Events:

Hot air balloon racing, a high desert off-road race, Laughlin River Days and Laughlin Rodeo Days are among the many events held in and around Laughlin throughout the year.

For more information:

Contact the Laughlin Visitors Bureau at [phone] or by e-mail in the Contact Us portion of www.visitlaughlin.com

CAPTION(S):

4 Photos, Box

Photo: (1--Color) Laughlin, Nev., was born amid hard times in 1966 on the edge of the rugged Mohave Desert, 90 miles southeast of Las Vegas. The town was named after its pioneer hotelier/investor, Don Laughlin.

(2--Color) Laughlin offers glitz, glitter and night life at reasonable prices.

(3--Color) Gaming resorts line the Nevada shore of the Colorado River in Laughlin, a year-round playground for gamblers and outdoor enthusiasts.

(4--Color) The beach offers unlimited fun for sun worshipers.

Box: IF YOU GO (See Text)