WALKIN' THE DOGS : BE FOOTLOOSE, FANCY-FREE IN SANDAL STYLES THAT REFLECT '50S GLAMOUR, '60S NOSTALGIA.

Byline: Barbara De Witt Daily News Staff Writer

The world's first shoe - worn by the Egyptians in 2000 B.C. - flip-flopped its way back into fashion favor this spring, showing up in the spring collections of designers from Chanel to Donna Karan to J. Crew.

The thong's the thing because clothes are so simple this season, according to Karan. She also thinks women walk more naturally in flat shoes, which could be why her new shoe collection is filled with simple thongs and slides in citrus-colored patent.

Designer Isaac Mizrahi also featured sandals in his new Isc collection. His have a sexier silhouette, with narrow straps forming a star over the top of the foot.

``The sandal, which begs for pretty feet, is following on the heels of the ladylike fashion trend. It projects femininity while offering an alternative to sneakers and pumps,'' said Ditas Mauricio, a spokeswoman for Talbots women's wear store. ``And, it's a quick way for a color-shy person to add color to an existing wardrobe.''

Los Angeles fashion consultant and author Patty Fox thinks the new interest in sandals with bows, fake flowers, bright colors and silver harness trim provides women an opportunity to express their personality as well as show some toes.

While many of the styles are steeped in '60s nostalgia, Fox credits '50s glamour icon Marilyn Monroe for prompting the whole sandal scandal.

``Marilyn Monroe began that whole dress-naked philosophy, and part of it was wearing sandals and baring her toes. It was very provocative for that time and certainly helped the sale of red nail polish,'' observed Fox, who added that while Monroe painted her toenails red, she always left her fingernails plain so they wouldn't detract from her face.

Along with thongs and Monroe's ankle-strap sandals are other hot-weather favorites, including the rubber flip-flop or zori, now made in transparent Life Saver colors by J. Crew.

More new styles to try, suggested Fox, are high-heeled sandals to make legs look long and sleek, a clunky clog to give jeans and a T-shirt an edgy attitude, or a simple slide in white patent to be teamed with a pair of white capri pants.

Whatever style you choose, sandals will have you firmly planted on fashionable ground.

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Photo: (1--Color) no caption (Sandals)

(2--Color) The la test styles for tanning toes include, from left, a pink slide by Charles Jourdan, $98, from Macy's; blue vinyl thong by Brass Plum, $12.95, from Nordstrom; orange mule by Callisto, $56.95, from Nordstrom; purple leather thong by Anne Klein II, $130, from Macy's; faux leopard-trim sandal by Sesto Meucci, $98, from Macy's; lime wedge by Guess?, $75.95, from Nordstrom; flower-trim sandal by BCBG, $114, from Macy's; red patent thong by Sesto Meucci, $84, from Macy's; orange ``jelly'' thong, $10, from J. Crew; pink mesh sandal by Unisa, $34.99, from Macy's; silver thong by Moda Espana, $29.95, from Nordstrom; lime thong by DKNY, $166, from Macy's; white patent slide by Adrienne Vittadini, $98, from Macy's; brown leather fisherman sandal by Ellemenno, $30, from Mervyn's.

Myung J. Chun/Daily News