WAFTING OVER TO ALCAZAR.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

If you enter the new Alcazar (previously Pampas and Denari, in Encino's Plaza de Oro) from the rear, you'll pass through a patio area where, on a table against the back wall of the restaurant, sit a number of elaborate hookah pipes.

These exotic smoking devices allow those who indulge to enjoy puffing on apricot-flavored Turkish tobacco and the like for around $10 per person per pipe.

One night recently, although it was quite chilly outside, several men were engaged in this age-old pursuit. As we left, I asked one if it was good.

``It's very therapeutic,'' he said.

Though this has nothing to do with the food at Alcazar, it does support the restaurant's claim to an authentic Lebonese experience.

Owned by Vatche Meguerdichian, who briefly was associated with an eponymous supper club called Vatche's in the Universal City area (now Pasha), Alcazar hired chef Haidar Al-Lakkis. For 10 years he was the chef at the respected Byblos on the West side.

The result is a step up from most of the local Lebanese restaurants.

Etched on its windows, displayed in its colorful dining room mural, illustrated on panels, the familiar ogee arch gives Alcazar its decor theme.

Alcazar (the name once given to Moorish palaces or castles) surrounds granite-topped, curiously linen-bare tables with Queen Anne-style upholstered chairs. Its deferential service is provided by bow-tied and paisley-vested waiters.

A comprehensive menu lists a dozen cold mezzas (appetizers) and 15 hot ones. There are sandwiches, salads, seafood ranging from shrimp done three ways to whole pan-fried fish, and a dozen, mostly familiar kebab- type meat and poultry entrees.

Prices are surprisingly moderate, with the majority of main dishes under $13, and one, chicken shawerma of incredibly tender, moist, white chicken breast skillfully pit-roasted, served sliced for only $9.99.

Indeed, the roasted half-chicken here, offered with a wine sauce, is even less, $8.99.

All meals begin with generous portions of pickled green and black complimentary olives and a bowl of crunchy, pickled radish spears. These arrive with a basket of pita bread.

Add to the pre-prandial nibbles, such entree accompaniments as delicious scented rice or well-executed french fries, a broiled tomato and sumak-spiced onions, and there is no question about having enough to eat.

This is especially apparent when mezza plates and/or soups ($3.99 each) are ordered.

Incidentally, soups (called showraba) like creamy lentil or vegetable recipes are worth trying.

Of the mezzas, dips like labneh ($3.99), the smooth, garlicky yogurt and mint mixture much like the Greek tzadziki, and muhammara ($5.25), the peppery pomegranate and walnut paste, are preferred over s'feehah ($4.50) a Lebanese meat turnover, and fatayer ($4.50), the equivalent stuffed with spinach.

Both of the latter possessed rubbery pastry coverings, though the fillings tasted good.

For the adventurous, such exotica as beyd ghanam ($6.25), sauteed lamb testicles (known as ``lamb fries''), and the spicy soujouk sausage ($5.75) won't disappoint.

If some of the garlicky, spicy stuff needs a palate-soothing beverage, the non-sweet yogurt drink (tahn, $1.95) hits the spot.

If wine is in the cards, a decent Lebanese cabernet sauvignon, 1997 Chateau Ksara ($23), will surprise those who didn't know that good wines have been made in Lebanon going back to Phoenician times.

This pleasant red will also complement the combination kebab platter ($12.99) of filet of beef, ground spiced beef (kafta) and the marinated chicken breast pieces (shish tawook) that match the quality of that wonderful chicken shawerma.

As for fish, the marinated filet of red snapper (samkeh tajen, $10.25) topped with a seasoned tahini sauce and a sprinkling of pine nuts, was a superb lunch dish one day. At the same mwal, broiled, sliced, boned, marinated hen ($11.25) also provided its share of rewarding tastes.

When it comes to endings, a type of formed, individual serving of blanc-mange made from milk, cornstarch, sugar, orange blossom and rose water named mhellabie can be had with an almond and honey cream topping ($5.99).

Called leyali Alcazar, it will certainly satisfy anyone's sweet tooth.

After that, of course, comes the patio water-pipe option.

ALCAZAR

Where: 17239 Ventura Blvd., Encino.

When: Open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily, for dinner from 3 to 10 p.m. nightly.

Recommended items: Labneh (yogurt dip with garlic and mint), muhammara (peppery walnut and pomegranate paste), lamb fries, soups, spicy soujouk sausage, samkeh tajen (marinated filet of red snapper with tahini sauce), kebabs, chicken shawerma, leyali Alcazar (orange blossom and rose water pudding topped with honey and almond cream), tahn (tart yogurt drink).

How much: Appetizers (mezzas) from $4 to $9, entrees from $9 to $20, desserts from $5 to $7. Beer and wine. Full bar approval expected by Feb. 10. MC, V.

Wine list: Limited 25-label list has vintage dates only on cabernet sauvignons. Familiar wineries like Mondavi, Kendall-Jackson and Beringer dominate. Only one Lebanese wine. Eight bottles under $20. Four Mondavi Woodbridge wines by the glass ($4.50 each). Corkage: $8.

Reservations: Suggested. Call [phone].

Our rating: Three stars for food; three stars for service; one and one half stars for wine.

CAPTION(S):

2 photos

Photo:

(1) Executive chef Haidar Al-Lakkis, left, and manager Lotfi Azzam present main-course dished from Alcazar.

Joe Binoya/Staff Photographer

(2) A wide variety of appetizers on display from Alcazar in Encino.

Joe Binoya/Staff Photographer