Vines of the times.

Too much of a good thing is great--especially if you're stocking a wine cellar.

An abundance of good wines on the market, combined with an ongoing recession, is sending wine prices down even as the quality goes up. For clubs and resorts, it's a great time to buy.

"The old maxim about 'buy low' applies," said Vic Motto, senior partner in Motto Kryla & Fisher LLP, wine industry consultants. "It's a very good time to get some very good wines."

Karen MacNeil, author of The Wine Bible, agrees. "There's no question that a savvy manager would look at this moment as a wise time to be augmenting the cellar," she said.

Prices are falling "in all categories," said Tom Burgess, owner of Burgess Cellars in St. Helena, CA. "The best buys are probably in the mid-range. The expensive wines are still kind of expensive."

But "some wines that used to wholesale for $15 to $20 a bottle have dropped to $5 to $10 a bottle," he said. "These are really good wines--and that makes it a great opportunity."

Bill Frazier, who owns Frazier Winery in Napa, CA, agrees. "All the wineries that made big price jumps over the last four years are jumping the price down again," he said.

In addition, Frazier said, "a lot of the smaller wineries with really good prices are producing some really great wine."

But everyone has a slightly different take on why now's the time to buy.

MacNeil believes that the slowing economy--not a wine surplus--is more likely responsible for the price decreases. "My sense of the [retail] market is that prices are down by five to 30 percent," she said. "Consumers in general, following 9/11 and the recession, have a more sober world view," said Eileen Fredrikson, partner in Gomberg, Fredrikson & Associates, industry analysts and consultants. "Generally speaking, the operative word is 'value' in everything they do."

As a result, "wineries are releasing bottles today for $50 that would have been $75 last year," she said.

Fredrikson's advice to clubs and restaurants: more casual, bistro-type food to get guests through the door--with wine priced to match.

Anthony Bell, of Bell Wine Cellars in Yountville, CA, has seen the market change over the last decade. "I think we see a lot more [wineries] cording on the market. But consumption hasn't increased as production is increasing." As a result, he said, "it's very much a buyer's market."

"Six months ago, a club didn't want a $25 Chardonnay. Now at $20 or lower, it's the perfect price."

"We're going out there and looking for great deals," said Daniel Moreno, wine manager at Houston's River Oaks Country Club. "My advice is to buy a lot and keep them, because prices are only going to go higher."

Stock the Cellar

Obviously, just how much of a buy you'll get depends on the variety, price, and brand. Small select vineyards are offering some of the best values. And if you've been lusting after a particularly expensive bottle of domestic wine, especially red wine, now's the time to move.

"If you've ever wanted that gold ring, you can reach it," MacNeil said. "This is really the time to lay in the Napa Valley Cabernet."

Motto agrees, but believes that the availability now, not the price, is the primary reason to buy. "The real opportunity would be some of these great Cabernets--Cabernets that three or four years ago were hard to find."

He believes that Chardonnay, "the 800-pound gorilla," was in over-supply, but that it's "coming into balance."

But that could affect the price, too. Within the next year, Motto predicted, "I'd see it going back up again."

Don't forget to take the location into account, said Kirk Reese, CCM, host of the International Wine Society of the Club Managers Association of America. For the most part, he said, "you can throw out anything coming out of Europe right now because of the strength of the Euro," Reese said. "The dollar has lost about 25 percent to the Euro in the last year."

But he's still managed to find some good buys. "Italy continues to be wonderful in producing great wines for under $20."

And MacNeil sees some good prices on select red wines from the South of France. "Cote du Rhone will wholesale for under $10 a bottle," she said. "And they are really, really delicious."

Cheaper Prices or Better Grapes?

In some cases, experts are saying, the bargain is that the price is staying the same--while the wine is getting better.

Because of the supply of good grapes on the market, vintners "can offer a slightly higher quality at the same price point they were offering six months ago," said Bell.

Fredrikson cites Rex Goliath as one example. They "had been selling grapes to other wineries, but when the market slowed, they chose to take their quality grapes and create a second label."

In addition, many in the industry are saying that domestic wines in general--and California wines in particular--have taken a leap forward in quality.

At River Oaks Country Club, many of the long time members love a good Bordeaux, and the club is stockpiling 2000 and 2001 Bordeaux futures. But the big surprise is that domestic wines have moved to the head of the line in popularity.

Moreno attributes that to two things: first, his younger members are drinking more wines and choosing domestic vintages. And second, "California has started producing some fabulous wines," he said. "The vineyards that produce cheaper wines are now producing some really great wines--they're improving their game."

Motto agrees. "The quality of California wine is growing exponentially," he said. "Consumers are drinking more, and California definitely has the edge."

And don't neglect the state's sparkling wines, MacNeil said. "The quality of California sparkling wine over the last decade has just soared."

And the difference in price makes it a much easier sale for resorts and clubs, she said. "It's hard to have a $100 add-on. It's not so hard to have a $40 to $50 add-on."

So Many Good Wines, So Little Time

When it comes to shopping wines, everyone has favorites.

"We're doing something different right now--Rhone wines," said Moreno. "It's something we offer to the members that they can't find anywhere else."

He's been able to pick up Mastroberadino, "a great wine, a fabulous wine," for $8 to $9 wholesale.

Reese, general manager of The Chevy Chase Club, agrees. "I'm really starting to be impressed with the Italian whites," he said--especially those from the Greco di Tufo region. He also likes the reds from the Primitivo region which he finds retail for $6 to $12 a bottle.

Spanish wines, "even with the dollar, are a relatively good value," Reese said. "Several small producers are doing some good work."

MacNeil said there are some bargains in several popular arenas. "There are some great Sauvignon Blancs out there that are a steal, and they are great for by-the-glass programs," she said. For "rock bottom prices," look to California and New Zealand.

For the reds, "I would definitely look to the Australian Syrahs, they have a very juicy mouth feel; very satisfying to all consumers." Also good, MacNeil said, are "some really wonderful, juicy American Zinfandels" from Northern California, Mendocino, Napa, and Sonoma.

And many of the Pinot Gris from California, Oregon, and New Zealand are "coming on strong," she said. "They are well under $10 a bottle. Consumers across the board love them and they're good summer time and early fall wines."

Good names "are always good and never disappoint," said Fredrikson, who favors brands like Kendall-Jackson, Jewel Collection, and Bogle Vineyards.

Encourage Your Guests to Try

If you want to sell more wine in your dining room, give members a chance to taste different types. Clubs are having phenomenal success with wine dinners. And by-the-glass programs, where a selection of good wines are offered at a moderate price, also are a great way to encourage guests to sample and learn what they like.

At River Oaks, the by-the-glass program has been a run-away hit, said Moreno. He selects "five reds and five whites" with an average cost of $4 to $5 per glass--though some go as high as $19. "It's increased our sales tremendously, 30 percent, since we started a year ago," he said.

Bell has noticed two keys to growing a successful by-the-glass program. First, he said, you need to serve quality wine. "It shouldn't be an avenue to move marginal wines."

Second, put an economical price on it, to encourage guests to experiment with a variety or vintage they might not normally drink. And in that area, he said, "clubs have an advantage--the opportunity to introduce great wines at fair prices."

WINE classes

Want to learn a bit more about wine? You're in luck.

The Culinary Institute of America just launched its wine studies program and is offering courses specifically tailored for people in the hospitality industry.

The classes, which are offered at the school's Grey`stone campus in the Napa Valley, range from two to five days. The price is $495 to $995, which includes all course materials, plus breakfast and lunch daily at the CIA.

For more information call 707/967-2421 or visit www.ciaprochef.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: Top Sellers from the cellars.

Ever wonder which vintages are the most popular with guests? A few club and resort managers share their top-selling wines and favorite finds:

Daniel Moreno, wine manager, River Oaks Country Club (Houston): Pinot Noir is the most popular wine they now sell, especially domestic vintages from California, and Oregon, like Ponzi Vineyards Pinot Noir. "It's very popular--we can't even keep it on the shelves."

Doug Richter, executive chef, Champaign Country Club (Champaign, IL): Favorite bottles include: Chardonnay. "Merryvale is making some great wines," he said. "And Starmont. And I'm a fan of Kunde [Estate Winery & Vineyards].

"Some of my favorites are the Alsatian Gewurztraminers, but to get the good ones you have to spend."

Kraig Thome, executive chef, The University Club of Houston: California Sauvignon Blanc--"I'm a huge fan of Silverado Sauvignon Blanc and Caymus Conundrum."

James Decker, CEC, AAC, executive chef, The Lakes Golf & Country Club (Westerville, OH): "We sell a boatload of" Cakebread [Cellars] Chardonnay, he said. "[And] the '91 Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon is looking good. And the Burgess Cabernet, '90 or '91, is relatively inexpensive for a 12- to 13-year old Cabernet--about $30 a bottle."

Hafid Eloufir, food and beverage manager, The University Club of Houston: Top sellers include Beringer Sauvignon Blanc 2000 and Santa Rita Merlot, Yellow Tail Chardonnay, and Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon (1999).

Terry Peterson, director of food and beverage, Silverado Resort (Napa, CA): Big sellers include Raymond Vineyards, both the 1998 Cabernet and the 2000 Chardonnay, and the 2000 Beringer Chardonnay.

Aaron Johnson, CCM, clubhouse manager, Sahalee Country Club (Sammamish, WA): Most popular white--2000 Apex Chardonnay; Most popular red--Beringer Knights Valley 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon.

Dana Dratch is a freelance writer based in Atlanta.