Venice unmasked.

Venice is the drag queen of Italian cities. Baubled, bejeweled, bewigged, the city spends a few weeks of every early spring behind the glittering masks of Carnavale and the glamorous facade of the Venice Film Festival and the rest of the time getting ready for the party. Although there are no gay clubs or bars in Venice proper (the closest are in nearby Maestre or Padua), gay travelers with a sense of history will find that this most fabulous of European cities resonates to a distinctly queer vibe--a sensibility that has traditionally encouraged tolerance and individuality.

The core of Venetian life has hinged for centuries on the concept of the mask: one face for society made of papier-matche and one that was only seen in private. In the late 1700s, Carnavale lasted months, and Venetians lived their daily lives behind the facade of the painted mask, never knowing with whom they were playing, or making love to, as masks were rarely doffed, except at home or at church.

"Venetians prefer reflections to the flesh and the mask to either," says the legendary gay novelist Gore Vidal, who has spent much time in Venice and Rome. "It is a city of disguises," writes Jeanette Winterson in her lesbian love story The Passion, set in a fairy-tale Venice of masks and mirrors. "You may lose your soul or find it here."

Many illustrious gay tray tiers have come to Venice looking for their souls--the freedom of a life lived behind masks, jewels, and gilded illusions. Gay or bisexual writers like Lord Byron, Henry James, Marcel Proust, and Thomas Mann all found solace in the arms of this great diva city of Europe. Mann's famous homoerotic masterpiece Death in Venice was the inspiration for another work of gay genius, Luchino Visconti's 1971 film classic of the same name. The "Death" takes place on the shores of Lido, on one of Venice's many outlying islands. Today, the Lido is most famous for being the ultraglam headquarters of the Venice Film Festival and is often overrun with actors, directors, and paparazzi. Two of Europe's most fabulous hotels are here: the turn-of-the-century Hotel des Bains (where Death in Venice was filmed) and the Excelsior (now part of the Westin group), which evokes a vintage movie palace. Go upstairs to the Excelsior's "Blue Bar," where film stills of Death in Venice's Dirk Bogarde and other flamed gay actors shine from their silvery frames on the blue movie light walls. There are wonderful views of the sea from here, and you don't have to be a guest to enjoy them.

Be sure to have a Campari at Marcel Proust's favorite coffeehouse, Caffe Florian. Opened in 1720, the card is a jewel box of gilded mirrors and red velvet cushions. After you've finished your drinks, go through the Piazza Sail Marco at twilight to watch the last rays of the sun slip beneath the waters of the lagoon from the Bridge of Sighs, made famous by bisexual poet and romantic extraordinaire Lord Byron, whose line "I stood in Venice on the Bridge of Sighs" created the myth that the structure was full of romance (it's actually called the Bridge of Sighs because it leads to Venice's prisons).

The experiences may feel insanely romantic and a little unreal, but Venice in all its gay friendly glory is both. "There is a strong need for magic," says Gore Vidal in his book Vidal in Venice, "for a place that is outside of time, for a postponement of reality. For Venice."

Life from Venice to London On the Orient Express

It's the most classic and elegant way to get to and from Venice, and the most famous. There is sparkling wine and there is Veuve Clicquot. There are trains and then there is The Venice-Simpleon Orient Express. The grande dame of all trains is still plying her charming trade on an ultra luxurious day and night journey from Venice to London through the pristine condors of the Alpine mountain passes as she has done since the last century. The best way to do the trip is to stars off with stay at the Orient Express Cipriani Hotel in Venice (the Casanova spa opens this summer) and end up at the Orient Express Manoir des Quatre Saisons Manor House in Oxford, England on the other end Your own vintage cabin and five star meals smooth the way, along with the time honored sleeping charm of all vagabonds--the rocking of the rails.

No, you may not find midnight murders occurring, but you might encounter a mysterious stranger or two.

"The train is popular among very wealthy older men and their young lovers," says one long-time cabin steward "Sometimes there are fights and the young men get all their new clothes thrown after them into the corridor. We try to find them somewhere else to sleep." One illustrious client is a wall-known French industrialist who likes to cross dress on the side. La Diva, it seems, also has an unusual Gallic twist of humor: "He usually comas to dinner in a full evening gown," says Steward X. "But this one night he came to the formal dinner car wearing a roll of toilet paper wound from his head to his feet, "The non-plussed staff elegantly reminded Monsieur" that jackets were required and offered a spare one to hang from his Charmined shoulders. "We like passengers with a sense of humor," says X More Veuve Clicquot anyone?

FLORENCE & VENICE ESSENTIALS

FLORENCE ACCOMMODATIONS (Dial 011 before all phone numbers) Inexpensive-Moderate: One of the most comfortable ways to enjoy a stay in Florence is to rent a room in an Italian B&B. MartinDago B&B (via de' Macci, 84; 39-055-234-1415; $95-130) is a charming historicalt house, with antiques and frescoed ceilings. Rooms are large, with queen-sized beds, and some with wrought iron canopies. Enjoy the view from the panoramic terrace, where you may sunbathe and have a chat with Gabriele and Sergio, the welcoming owners. At the Bed&Bed House (viale dei Mille, 54:39-055-50043355; $50-70) you'll find Oriental comfort; Each of the five bedrooms is identified with a specific colour, with candles and incense, and even a stereo with ambient music. Expensive: If you came to Florence to enjoy its history and the spirit of Renaissance, then Grand Hotel Baglioni (Piazza Unita, d'Italia 6: 39-055-23580; $370-444) is a must. The hotel was inaugurated in 1903, and along the corridors, pictures from the Alinari museum show the historic face of Florence, and the rooms with coffered-wood ceilings and windows with original leaded panes--though perfectly soundproofed--will make you feel like a Prince of Renaissance. The roof garden and the "Terrazza Brunelleschi" restaurant enjoy the breathtaking views of the Cupola of S. Maria del Fiore. The Hotel Bernini Palace (Piazza San Firenze. 29: 39-055-288-621: $300-420) is the perfect place for antique lovers. It is located in a 14th century palace where from 1865 to 1870 the Italian Parliament of the Kingdom of Italy used to meet--old paintings, frescoed ceilings, and classic wrought iron chandeliers complete the picture. Speaking of luxury. the Westin Grand Hotel (Piazza Ognissanti, 1; 39-055-288-781, $470-670) is a former 18th century palace overlooking Florence's river Amo. Named to Conde Nast Traveler's 2002 Gold List, the hotel pays tribute to Florence's past, with spectacular frescoes and marble inlays. The Grand Deluxe Suites and Florentine Suites come with sumptuous canopies and furnishings. VENICE ACCOMMODATIONS The Hotel Ciprani (Giudecca 10, 39-041-520-77-44; $940-$2.931) is considered one of the best hotels in the world-not just in Venice. Located on the eastern edge of Giudecca Island just across the Grand Canal from San Marco Plaza the Cipriani is accessible by free ferry rides from Piazza San Marco, helmed by handsome young men in yachting outfits. The hotel itself is a restored Villa of a noble Venetian family, and rooms are spacious and modern, with picture-perfect views of the Piazza San Marco across the Grand Canal. A new spa named after Casanova, opens later this year. Further out to sea lie the two best hotels on Lido Island: Accessible by free ferry from San Marco and the Grand Canal, the Hotel Excelsior (Longomare Guglielmo Marconi 41; Lido; 39-041-526-02-01; $353-$3,550) is a movie palace of the 1920s come to brilliant, peacock-like life. The spacious, ocean-breezy rooms sport Arabesque-shaped windows front the Adriatic Sea Down the lane, the Hotel des Bains (Lungomare Guglielmo Marconi 17, Lido 39-041-526-59-21; $508-$648) is the Excelsior's older more refined sister. Rooms are smaller but the turn-of-the-century atmosphere of quiet privilege that inspired Thomas Mann remains. The gleaming polished wood of the lobby and its Belle Epoch fixtures are not to be missed. GETTING THERE The best way to travel to Italy for-the value is through an air/hotel package with Go-Today (425-487-9632). They offer individual three-star to five-star packages from a number of U.S. gateways for peanuts, and have multi-city Italy packages that can include rail tickets, breakfasts, transfers, and more for one low price. For Web site links to all the above establishments, go to www.outtraveler.com.

The Out Traveler
Ratings: Italy

Gay-Friendly                   (A)
Legal Domestic Partnerships    (B)
Adoption Laws                  (B)
Antidiscrimination Laws        (C)
HIV Information                (A)
Gay Scene                      (A)

(A) Excellent (B) Fair (C) Poor