Vegetable Chowders.

Soup, according to the dictionary, is a liquid food. According to French classical chefs, soups can be classified into three distinct categories: clear, thick, and national soups. Clear soups, such as broth, bouillon, and consomme, are based on clear, unthickened stocks. Clear soups are thought to show off the skill of the chef, as there are no "safety nets" of additional vegetables or grains to enhance appearance or flavor. A clear soup is meant to have a sparkling clarity and a full flavor (but nothing to chew on!). Thick soups are opaque rather than translucent. Creamy thick soups are thickened with roux (fat, such as margarine, and flour combined to make a paste) and milk (the vegan version can use soymilk or pureed silken tofu). Pureed thick soups are naturally thickened by pureeing ingredients, such as cooked beans or legumes, vegetables, or starches such as rice or potatoes. Thick soups also show the talent of the classic chef, as they are meant to look creamy and uniform, with no ingredients visually identifiable.

The third category of national soups, also called specialty soups or potage paysanne (soup of the people), is a catch-all term. Classic chefs, when faced with hearty, flavorful soups and thin stews, such as minestrone, gazpacho, avgolemono (Greek lemon and rice soup), vegetable tangine, Moroccan vegetable stew, French onion soup, corn and potato chowder, chili, borscht, and Brunswick Stew (a Southern-influenced, soupy stew), were at a loss to categorize them as either thick or thin, so they created a separate section for them. Far from classic, national soups show off the skill of cooks faced with the challenges of seasonal produce, tight budgets, a finite supply of cooking fuel, and the need to nourish many with the least amount of resources possible.

Chowders fit in the national soup category. Commonly understood as hearty American soups, usually containing potatoes and milk, chowders generally defy definition. Chowders are flavored with whatever is in season or whatever could be canned from last season. They vary from region to region and generally are "chunkier" than most soups.

The word "chowder" is thought to have come from the word "chaudiere," the name of a stout iron pot used by French fishermen. Chaudieres, stabilized over fires on the decks of fishing boats, kept heating continually and ingredients were tossed in as they became available. This created a ready meal source for the three- or four-day fishing expeditions. "Chaudiere" evolved into "chowder" due to the adaptation of pronunciation from French to English.

Chowders were originally meant to be one-pot meals. They were "built" in layers, with ingredients tossed into the pot according to the amount of cooking time required. Served with crackers or a hunk of bread, chowders were the main meal of the day.

Chowders generally contain white potatoes as a main ingredient. Some of the potato falls apart and adds natural thickening, while some remains intact and adds texture and mouth-feel. If using white potatoes, use a combination of waxy and non-waxy potatoes. Non-waxy potatoes, such as bakers or russets, contain more starch and do not hold their shape, so they contribute to the thickening. Waxy potatoes, with less starch, hold their shape and will add to the "chew" of the chowder. For a change of pace, use sweet potatoes or yams for the thickening agent. Some newly popular potato varieties, such as Peruvian purple and Yukon Gold, are waxy varieties, which will add color and "chew." Canned potatoes can be added at the last moment as an extra vegetable, but they do not add much flavor or thickening. Dried potato powder (such as mashed potato mix) can be added for thickening as well.

A basic traditional chowder contains a base of sauteed carrots, celery, and onions thickened with flour and cooked with potatoes and stock. After that, your imagination is the only limit. For a summer chowder, add fresh corn cut off the cob, cubed fresh zucchini and/or crookneck squash, fresh baby peas, and chopped fresh tomatoes seasoned with fresh parsley and rosemary. Remember, a chowder is meant to be a meal in itself and you won't be graded by a classical chef on the precise cuts or amounts of vegetables you use. The fuller the chowder, the better, and the chunkier the cut of vegetable, the more chowder-like it is.

For a winter chowder, use root vegetables. To your base, add diced turnips, rutabagas, parsnips, and carrots. For a pantry chowder, add canned tomatoes, canned beans, canned potatoes, canned carrots, canned mushrooms, and canned corn to your base and season with dried herbs. Go to your freezer and create a quickie chowder with the usual base plus frozen mixed vegetables, zucchini, lima or butter beans (butter beans are baby lima beans), and okra, with a little bit of tomato puree for color.

Ethnic influences can flavor your chowder as well. Add lentils and tomatoes to your basic potato chowder and season with curry or garam masala or asofetida (Indian spice mixes) for an Indian-influenced chowder. Use cooked white or fava beans, kidney beans, and fresh basil or oregano for a Mediterranean chowder. If you're feeling particularly affluent, add a little saffron, sundried tomato slivers, fresh fennel (also called sweet anise), and imported dried mushrooms for an alternate Mediterranean chowder. Black beans and green bell pepper can give a Cuban flair and chopped fresh chilies and tomatoes generate a Central American heat. For a New Orleans-influenced chowder add okra, tomatoes, and file powder (ground sassafras). For Southern-style, add corn, okra, and tomatoes. New Englanders will go for potato chowder with corn and white beans, while South-westerners may add dried chili or red pepper flakes.

Create an onion chowder by adding two or three different types of onions, such as sweet, red or yellow, or leeks, to a basic chowder. Show a Russian influence by creating a beet chowder flavored with dill. Simmer onions, leeks, and shredded cabbage in vegetable stock until tender. Add coarsely grated fresh beets and diced white potatoes to the stock and let simmer. Flavor with vinegar, white pepper, dill, and tomato puree.

Here's a fast review for making your own vegetable stock, as the canned variety may be too salty or under-flavored for your taste. For about 2 quarts of stock, saute 1 garlic clove and 2 Tablespoons of chopped onions in 1 teaspoon of oil in a medium pot. Add 2 quarts of water and 1/3 cup carrots, 1/8 cup mushrooms, 1/4 cup celery, 1/8 cup leeks (if you don't have leeks, use onions), 1 bay leaf, 1 Tablespoon fresh parsley, 1 teaspoon whole peppercorns, and, if you like, 1/8 cup white wine. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and allow to simmer until a flavorful liquid develops (at least 45 minutes). Strain the stock and store in the refrigerator or freezer until ready to use. In the refrigerator, stock will last for about three days and in the freezer, for about two months. This recipe is for a mild stock, which can be flavored as it is used. If you want more "character" in your stock, you can add fresh fennel, dried mushrooms, chives, turnips, more carrots, and bell peppers. Don't add cabbage-family veggies (broccoli, cauliflower, red cabbage, Brussels sprouts, etc.), as they do not improve with age and can add an off-flavor when reheated.

Chowders don't have to be completely chunky. For a creamier chowder, allow your chowder to cook thoroughly and then remove about one to two cups of the cooked chowder and puree in a food processor or blender, or through a ricer. Add the pureed chowder back to the main pot, stir, and heat.

Paired with freshly baked bread sticks, cornbread, or pita, and a fresh fruit or vegetable salad, chowders are a flavorful and fun one-pot meal.

SOUTHWESTERN GREEN BEAN AND RED PEPPER CHOWDER (6 servings)

A thick, hearty soup made very pretty and aromatic with the garnish of fresh cilantro.

1 1/4 pounds green beans, fresh or frozen,
  thawed
2 Tablespoons oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 1/2 cups chopped grilled fresh red peppers or
  drained canned pimientoes
1/2 medium green pepper
3/4 cup prepared mashed potatoes
1/2 cup water or soymilk
1 Tablespoon hot sauce
2 Tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

Chop green beans into 1-inch pieces. If using fresh beans, steam or microwave until just tender. Set aside.

Heat oil in medium pot. Add garlic and saute for 30 seconds on high heat. Lower heat, add the peppers, and saute for one minute. Add green beans, potatoes, and water or soymilk. Allow to simmer until veggies are soft and flavors begin to marry (about 30 minutes).

Just before serving, add hot sauce and stir to combine. Garnish with fresh cilantro at the table.

Total calories per serving: 118   Fat: 5 grams
Carbohydrates: 17 grams           Protein: 4 grams
Sodium: 105 milligrams            Fiber: 6 grams

CARROT, PEAR, AND WHITE BEAN CHOWDER (4 servings as an entree)

Who doesn't adore the sweetness of pears? How lovely to find them in the comfort of a down-home chowder! This recipe is more texture-rich than an ordinary soup, and the flavors will remind you of summer, while preparing you for the chill of oncoming winter.

Vegetable oil spray
3/4 cup diced onion
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 cups chopped carrots
2 teaspoons fresh rosemary (or 1 teaspoon
 dried)
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon white pepper
4 cups vegetable broth or stock
3/4 cup peeled and chopped, fresh, firm pears
2 cups cooked white beans (such as buffer,
 Northern, or navy beans)

In a medium pot, spray some oil and allow to heat. Add onion and saute until soft (about 3 minutes). Add garlic and saute until soft, about 1 minute. Add carrots, rosemary, ginger, and pepper, stirring to mix.

Add broth, bring to a boil, reduce heat, and allow to simmer, covered, for 10 minutes.

Add the pears and beans, and cook on low heat until carrots are tender, about 15 minutes. Serve hot, as is. For a creamy soup, remove 1 cup, puree and return it to the pot, allowing the soup to reheat.

Total calories per serving: 190   Fat: 2 grams
Carbohydrates: 38 grams           Protein: 7 grams
Sodium: 297 milligrams            Fiber: 4 grams

BRUNSWICK STEW A LA VEGAN (5 servings)

Brunswick stew originated in Brunswick County, Virginia. This recipe, thankfully, spares the rabbits and squirrels who were the featured ingredients, and rounds out the flavor with a medley of chunky, tasty veggies.

Vegetable oil spray
1 cup diced onions
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 Tablespoon all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons dried sage
2 cups vegetable broth or stock
1 cup unpeeled and chopped red or
  white rose potatoes
1/2 cup thinly sliced carrots
2 cups thawed frozen lima or butter beans
  (or canned, drained beans)
2 cups chopped, undrained canned tomatoes
1 1/4 cups cut corn (thawed, if frozen; drained,
  if canned; cut from cob, if fresh)
1 Tablespoon ketchup
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon hot sauce
2 teaspoons vinegar

In a large pot, spray oil and allow to heat. Saute onion until soft (about 3 minutes). Add garlic and saute for one minute. Stir in flour and sage and stir until combined. (This creates a roux, a thickening agent.)

Add broth and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Lower heat, and add potatoes, carrots, and beans. Cover and allow to simmer for 10 minutes. Add tomatoes and corn, and simmer, uncovered, until all veggies are soft (about 15 minutes).

Stir in ketchup, soy sauce, hot sauce, and vinegar, and allow to cook for 3 minutes. Serve hot.

Total calories per serving: 179   Fat: 1 gram
Carbohydrates: 38 grams           Protein: 8 grams
Sodium: 281 milligrams            Fiber: 7 grams

MARRANO CHOWDER (5 servings as an entree)

Sweet potatoes are always a great substitute for regular potatoes. In this recipe, their natural sweetness is enhanced by the contrasting flavors of hot sauce and black pepper.

Vegetable oil spray
3/4 cup minced onions
1/2 cup diced red bell pepper
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup cold water2 cups peeled and diced fresh sweet potatoes
2 cups canned or cooked black beans,
  drained
1 1/2 cups drained and chopped canned
  tomatoes
1 teaspoon hot sauce
2 teaspoons cracked black pepper
2 Tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

In a medium pot, spray vegetable oil and allow to heat. Add onions, bell pepper, and garlic, and saute for about 3 minutes, until vegetables soften.

Add the cold water and sweet potatoes. Cook, covered, until the potatoes are just tender, about 10 minutes.

Add the beans and tomatoes, and allow to simmer until the potatoes begin to fall apart.

Just before serving, stir in hot sauce and pepper. Garnish with cilantro.

Total calories per serving: 202   Fat: 1 gram
Carbohydrates: 43 grams           Protein: 9 grams
Sodium: 521 milligrams            Fiber: 11 grams

POTATO AND KALE CHOWDER (6 servings)

For a creamier texture, add 6 ounces of purged tofu while the veggies are simmering.

3 pounds unpeeled red or white rose potatoes
1 pound fresh kale
4 quarts water
2 Tablespoons oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
2 Tablespoons diced onions

Cut the potatoes into small chunks and shred the kale. Place potatoes in a large pot and place kale on top. Add the water.

Allow to simmer, stirring occasionally to moisten kale, until potatoes are tender (12-15 minutes).

While veggies are simmering, heat oil in a frying pan. Add garlic, pepper flakes, and onions and saute. Set aside.

Allow potatoes and kale to continue to simmer until the water is half gone. Add the sauteed veggies. Stir and allow to cook until potatoes fall apart and liquid is thickened.

Total calories per serving: 263   Fat: 5 grams
Carbohydrates: 49 grams           Protein: 7 grams
Sodium: 47 milligrams             Fiber: 5 grams

LENTIL CHOWDER (6 servings)

An old familiar standby for vegans, but served here with a South Indian twist.

2 Tablespoons oil
1 teaspoon ground cumin
3/4 cup peeled and diced potatoes
1/2 onion, diced
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
2 cups water
1 cup cooked lentils
1/4 cup thawed frozen peas
1/4 cup diced fresh tomatoes
1 teaspoon garam masala (or 1/4 teaspoon
  each turmeric, coriander, ground ginger,
  and white pepper)

Heat oil in large pot. Add cumin and saute for 15 seconds. Add potatoes and onion and saute for 2 minutes. Add red pepper flakes and water and bring to a boil. Lower heat and allow to simmer, covered, for ten minutes.

Add lentils, peas, tomatoes, and garam masala and allow to simmer for 10 minutes or until potatoes are soft and liquid is thickened.

Total calories per serving: 110   Fat: 5 grams
Carbohydrates: 13 grams           Protein: 4 grams
Sodium: 15 milligrams             Fiber: 4 grams