VIDEO : 25 YEARS LATER, `FLAMINGOS' STILL SHOCKS.

Byline: Robert Bianco Special to the Daily News

When it was released in 1972, ``Pink Flamingos'' was the unchallenged pinnacle of poor taste.

Tastes have changed over the last quarter century. Language has coarsened, movies have become more explicit, and audiences have become harder to shock. Yet as John Waters' cult classic celebrates its 25th anniversary, I'm happy to report ``Pink Flamingos'' still maintains its power to surprise and sicken. Whether you think America's tastes have declined or improved, ``Pink Flamingos'' is still certifiably, undeniably tasteless.

It's good to know some classics have held up.

``Pink Flamingos'' (1972, New Line; $19.98) returns to video after its brief theatrical rerelease in a special digitally remastered anniversary edition that includes ``never-before-seen footage.'' (Considering what got into ``Pink Flamingos,'' one shudders to imagine what could have been cut.) Starring the late and legendary 300-pound transvestite Divine, the film is the simple story of a simple woman's drive to be the Filthiest Person Alive. Having defended her title, she celebrates with a film-ending meal of dog excrement.

Ignore the film-buff debates and tell yourself it's an editing trick. You'll sleep better.

Undeniably unique (how many other films get so much mileage out of dog poop and egg-sucking?), ``Pink Flamingos'' is best seen by the young - though not too young. College age seems about right. If you're way past college and you still haven't seen ``Flamingos,'' it may be best to remain uninitiated.

Everyone, however, should see at least one film by John Waters, one of the film world's true and rare originals. A four-tape Waters collection (``Pink Flamingos,'' ``Desperate Living,'' ``Polyester'' and ``Hairspray'') is available from New Line for $59.98, but unless you're already a devoted fan, four at once may be three too many. Consider starting slowly with one of the following:

``Hairspray'' (1988, New Line; $14.98): Waters' most accessible and popular film is also widely considered his best - though fans of the more outrageous early movies would disagree. This musical satire set in a 1962 TV dance show studio defends outcasts and attacks racism while maintaining a benevolent sense of humor and wonder - no easy task. It's Divine's last movie, and the movie that made a star out of a pre-diet Ricki Lake, who went on to set nadirs of taste on her own.

``Polyester'' (1981, New Line; $19.98): Waters' first stab at a mainstream movie stars Divine as a frustrated housewife who finds the man of her dreams in Tab Hunter. The movie was filmed in ``Odorama,'' but unfortunately, the video does not come with the required scratch-and-sniff card.

``Serial Mom'' (1994, HBO; $19.98): Waters' maternal heroines tend to be loving and well-intentioned, but, well, a tad unbalanced. In ``Mom,'' a very funny Kathleen Turner plays a perfect housewife who finds it necessary to kill people who threaten her view of perfection. What, you've never felt like strangling someone who wears white shoes after Labor Day?

Elsewhere on video:

Like ``Pink Flamingos,'' ``Das Boot'' (1982, Columbia TriStar; $24.95) is returning to video after a limited theatrical re-release. ``Boot,'' however, returns in drastically altered fashion: This 3-1/2-hour director's cut, supervised and re-edited by writer-director Wolfgang Petersen, is almost twice as long as the 1983 English-language video release. The restored version is being released in letterbox in two versions: dubbed or in German with subtitles.

Horror guru Wes Craven revived his career with ``Scream'' (1996, Miramax; priced for rental), a surprise hit that puts a witty twist on slasher films. Rent the original to prepare yourself for the inevitable sequels.

``In Love and War'' (1996, Warner; priced for rental): Chris O'Donnell stars as Ernest Hemingway, who is nursed back to health by Sandra Bullock. Bullock's character, the World War I medical volunteer, inspired ``A Farewell to Arms.'' Amazingly enough, audiences didn't buy it. After ``Love and War,'' the word was Sandra Bullock should never choose another period piece. (After ``Speed 2'' - possibly the least exciting action movie ever made - word is she should be prohibited from choosing her own movies at all.)

``Ridicule'' (1997, Miramax; priced for rental): This highly praised French comedy (in French, with subtitles) follows a visiting country engineer to the court of Louis XVI. There he develops the two weapons needed for survival: a quick wit and a sharp tongue.

Two films new to the rental market are notable mainly for their casts. ``A Couch in New York'' (1997, BMG; priced for rental) stars Oscar-winners Juliette Binoche and William Hurt; ``Gridlock'd'' (1996, PolyGram; priced for rental) stars the late rapper Tupac Shakur.

A ruthless prisoner being transferred to a federal prison by air kills the guards and hijacks the plane. You can see it this year as ``Con Air.'' You could have seen it last year as ``Turbulence'' (1996, Warner; priced for rental). And knowing Hollywood, you'll see it again next year.

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Photo

Photo: Jerry Stiller, left, Divine and Ricki Lake in John Waters' 1988 film ``Hairspray.''