VIBRATO GRILL BUZZING WITH GOOD TASTES AND SOUNDS.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

HAVING HAD a band named the Tijuana Brass, one would think that Herb Alpert would open a Mexican restaurant. But his new Vibrato atop Beverly Glen overlooking the Valley in Bel-Air fits neatly into the all-American comfort food category.

In the longtime Adriano's location, Vibrato has been gutted on the inside and reformulated into a super supper club where nearly every table on its tiered first floor and windowed second floor allows a clear view of the stage.

It's a handsome, dramatic setting, complete with a dropped, piano-shaped bar ceiling, the top of which actually is painted like the inside of a grand piano that can be viewed only from a specific upstairs area.

Also prominent, affixed to the side of the ceiling are a quartet of bronze sculptures of musicians playing, said to be a gift to Alpert from Quincy Jones.

Vibrato's vibes have evidently been strong enough to draw decent dinner crowds in its opening weeks, seemingly people who are just as interested in good dining as in good live jazz.

And the kitchen responds well.

Headed by capable chef Sharon Funt, previously at Nick & Stef's, Vibrato delivers familiar fare that's difficult to fault - steaks, chops, seafood and the like. The menu is divided into three sensible entree headings: grilled, roasted and braised.

Prime steaks - aged 40 days - like the New York strip ($34) come up thick and tender, perhaps not as juicy as some would like. They are, however, quite flavorful and easy to enhance with one or more of six sauce options headed by a rich cabernet red wine sauce and the classic bearnaise.

The roasted section turned out to be our favorite, with choices of nicely done skate ($25) accompanied by roasted artichokes, caper berries and lemon; a fulfilling rendition of a pounded veal chop ($31) topped with freshly made mozzarella and a vibrant tomato sauce; and roasted duck ($28) perched in a blood orange-boosted broth.

Beginnings can be an enjoyable fresh tomato soup ($8) flavored with basil and topped with shaved Reggiano cheese, or a half-dozen raw oysters ($11) like Kumamotos, Malpeques or Fanny Bays.

Also, there's a super braised beef short ribs appetizer ($14) that chef Funt sends out in cubelike portions on skewers given a bit of zing with a chipotle barbecue sauce, served neatly nestled in a mustard seed coleslaw.

Salads are presented nicely.

That's if you don't mind your Caesar ($10) with whole leaf romaine.

But you're sure to be entranced by Funt's recipe of roasted pear with blue cheese ($12) plus toasted walnuts and a balsamic dressing.

Meanwhile, there are plenty of side dishes to choose from, nine different vegetable preparations, a quintet of potato options and a couple of interesting legume and grain mixtures.

The simple roasted mushrooms ($9) are preferred over creamed spinach ($8) here, which may have had too much nutmeg one time.

As for endings ($8 each), both the warm, melty Valrhona chocolate cake and a coffee-flavored, buttery dacquoise provide shareable, joyful touches of sweetness.

And all this at no extra cost (except for special concert engagements) with great sounds of live cool jazz from Vibrato's center stage.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

VIBRATO GRILL

Food: Three and one half stars - Wine: Two and one half stars - Service: Three stars

Where: 2930 Beverly Glen Circle, Bel-Air.

Hours: Open for dinner from 5:30 to 10 nightly, to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays.

Recommended items: Oysters, tomato soup, pear and blue cheese salad, roasted skate, pounded veal chop, roasted duck, seafood stew, warm Valrhona cake, coffee-flavored dacquoise.

How much: Starters from $6 to $15, entrees from $24 to $36, desserts $8 each. Full bar. All major credit cards.

Wine list: Diverse global selection, all bottles vintage dated, priced from $25 to $370. No apparent bargains. Also 26 offerings by the glass from $7 to $18. Corkage: $25.

Reservations: Needed. Call [phone].

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Photo:

Seared scallops with creamy corn cake and lobster is one of chef Sharon Funt's offerings at Vibrato Grill, a new jazz supper club owned by legendary trumpeter Herb Alpert.

Michael Owen Baker/Staff Photographer