VEGGIE LOVERS OFFER MUCH TO LIKE FOR INDIAN-FOOD FANS.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

DON'T BE FOOLED by its exterior looks. Once past the aisles of a specialty vegetarian market in Northridge called A-1 Produce, those in the know will find in the rear and to one side of the building a primarily Indian self-service cafe called Veggie Lovers Deli.

Because the proprietors used to own a successful mini-chain of Indian restaurants in Los Angeles, they make sure the kitchen does an excellent job of preparing Indian food. They also cook up Chinese, Mexican and Middle Eastern fare, but the emphasis is definitely on the Indian.

Consequently, during two review visits there was only one brief departure from the Indian fare, that of a barely passable Chinese noodle and vegetable dish. Because this place has a Reseda Boulevard address, it would appear to make sense to go to one of the many fine Chinese restaurants on the same street if Chinese food is desired. So the advice is, stick to Indian here.

If you've never had a dhosa, the Southern Indian version of a burrito, you're missing out. Here's your chance.

They might be at least a foot in length and stuffed with a tasty potato mixture if you pick the masala dhosa ($2.95).

Most of the filling seems to be in the middle third of these long, crepelike creations.

Prefer cheese to potato? There's a paneer dhosa ($3.95) that's packed with the doughy textured Indian cheese. And tofu lovers can get their dhosa stuffed with their favorite soy product for the same price.

Be prepared for little complimentary containers of colorful chutney in which to dip your dhosa. Bright green mint chutney, dark brown tamarind orange-toned tomato and a lighter green coconut chutney provide the various condiment possibilities, with the mint being the one with the most spicy heat.

Want some of that good Indian chile fire? Get the sambhar, a dark, soupy liquid that will set your palate ablaze. Try it with dipping patties called idli or doughnut-shaped vada (two pieces of each, $2.95).

There's also uttapam, another floury Southern Indian item that can be paired with sambhar ($3.50) or eaten separately and quite enjoyably with onions, green chiles and tomato ($3.95).

At most Indian restaurants there's usually one menu choice of the fritterlike pakora. But here at the Veggie Lovers Deli there can be as many as eight different pakora options. Our pick from onion, cheese, cauliflower, potato, mixed vegetable, chile and spinach possibilities was the spinach. And of course we couldn't resist the house samosa ($1.50 for two) the tasty, conical-shaped turnovers stuffed with potato.

One of the really delicious offerings here is the plate of faux meatballs in a seasoned, creamy sauce, all strictly vegetarian, called malai kofta ($4.95). Don't miss it.

The difficulty at Veggie Lovers stems from the fact that everything is so low-priced that there's a tendency to over-order, ending up with a table crammed with different food items, way too much for any party fewer than a busload to eat at one sitting.

Oh yes, the garlic naan bread here is superb. But on the combination lunch meals ($4.50 or $5.50) which brings forth rice and vegetable combinations, appetizers, cooked lentils, raita (the soothing yogurt mixture), pickles and things, there's an option of naan, roti or poori, three different Indian-style breads.

Just can't forget those breads. They arrive as warm, big oval portions, puffy, prettily decorated, of nice flavor and texture.

But after everything else, I feel stuffed just thinking about them.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

A-1 PRODUCE & VEGGIE LOVERS DELI

Food: Three stars. Value: Four stars.

Where: 9043 Reseda Blvd., Northridge.

Hours: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily.

Recommended items: Dhosas, sambhar, idli, uttapam, malai kofta, raita, pakoras, samosas, garlic naan, lassi.

How much: No alcohol. MC, V, Discover.

Reservations: Not taken. First come, first served. Information: [phone].

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A combination lunch with naan bread and masala dhosa is more than enough to fill you up at A-1 Produce & Veggie Lovers Deli, where the prices are so low, it's easy to order too much.

Gene Blevins/Special to the Daily News