VALLEY BAKER LIGHTENS UP SWEETS.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Daily News Food Editor

If you're more conscious than ever of what you're eating these days and are constantly looking for ways to lighten up sweets, take some tips from Krystine Crowell. The Granada Hills resident and owner of Krystine's Healthy Gourmet Bakery and Catering Co. in Venice shares her hints and recipe creations in her recently released ``Krystine's Healthy Gourmet Bakery Cookbook'' (HP Books; $21.95).

We were pleasantly surprised with a recent sampling of some of Crowell's goodies - ranging from muffins to cookies and desserts. They were excellent tasting (unlike many of the reduced-fat and low-fat sweets we've tasted that are rubbery, flavorless and unappealing). Some of our favorites from her book are included in today's recipe collection. They would be a welcome addition to Mother's Day celebrations - or if you're taking Mom out, bake her a batch of cookies or whip up a cheesecake or tart to give her to enjoy later that day or the next. Keep the recipes handy to use throughout the year for everyday fare and special occasions, too.

Crowell's interest in sweets dates back more than two decades, when she baked with her Grandma Ethyl in Pomona during her youth. She continued to bake during her teen-age and college years.

But her baking took a turn with the realization that she was 75 pounds overweight after she had her first baby - and desperately needed to do something about it. ``Unfortunately, my passion for sweet desserts did not help,'' she added. ``I felt tired and fatigued.'' A year of dieting didn't help.

But then she decided to do something about it. And as she cut sugar and fat, the pounds melted away. ``I had a tough time giving up sweets - and so I tried to make them without all the fat, '' continued Crowell. She came up with numerous low-fat, nonfat and reduced-fat recipes that tasted delicious. Encouraged by her father, she opened Krystine's Bakery, a retail operation, in Brentwood in December 1993, followed by a second store in Palos Verdes Estates two years later. Crowell also was doing a little wholesale business out of the stores. Then came an appearance on ``The Suzanne Somers Show'' in '95 - and the phones went crazy. Grocery stores, health food stores, coffeehouses, restaurants and yogurt shops wanted to order her healthy baked goods.

In '96, she closed her two retail stores and moved into an expansive kitchen in Venice to concentrate on her wholesale business. And as they say, the rest is history.

Crowell's cookbook was an outgrowth of repeated customer requests. Many wanted to make some of the dessert items at home - and Crowell was happy to oblige. Unlike some professionals who feel sharing recipes is threatening, Crowell doesn't believe it affects sales in any way. ``I feel customers will still come and buy my products,'' she added.

The book, which was two years in the making - with the recipes being tested in the bakery as well as in her home kitchen - includes several different types of recipes, ranging from those 30 percent lower in fat than traditional recipes (but still high in fat) to recipes that are nonfat, low-fat, reduced cholesterol, dairy-free and sugar-free.

Most of the recipes are simple and straight-forward - Crowell noted that they were created with the novice in mind - and appear easily doable for bakers. It's not surprising, because taste, time and simplicity of preparation are of primary importance to Crowell. Her food philosophy boils down to ``using fresh ingredients and making things as healthy as possible without compromising on taste, quality and consistency.''

Her children - 8-year-old Michael and 3-year-old Amanda - and her husband were her toughest taste testers and critics. ``The kids are so brutally honest,'' said Crowell, laughing. Among her son's favorite recipes are the Blue Ribbon Brownies and L.A.'s Best Chocolate Chip Cookies, while her daughter favors the Dairy-Free Fresh Apple Bars. Her husband, Todd Holmberg, loves anything with butterscotch, and that means the Butterscotch Chip Cookies and Cranberry-Butterscotch Tofu Cookies. ``I like the Million Dollar Peanut Butter Cookies, the White Chocolate-Raspberry Truffle Cheesecake and the Old-Fashioned German Chocolate Cake,'' volunteered Crowell.

Meanwhile, here are some of Crowell's hints for success with lightened-up sweets:

When Crowell's recipes call for reduced-fat margarine, Crowell uses Imperial- or Blue Bonnet-brand sticks. Do not use tub margarine, she cautioned.

You'll notice that some of Crowell's recipe specify small amounts of butter. Don't substitute other fats, because the butter is necessary for flavor and crispness, warned Crowell. In some recipes, when low-fat margarine is used exclusively, the product ends up more rubbery than if both a little butter and low-fat margarine are used together. Cakes are less fickle than cookies when it comes to using all low-fat margarine, added Crowell.

Avoid recipe substitutions. Use the ingredients Crowell specifies in recipes to avoid disappointing results. If a recipe doesn't suit your needs, look for another one that does.

Crowell uses nonfat milk, nonfat and low-fat yogurt, nonfat sour cream, and nonfat and light cream cheese to reduce fat and cholesterol in her baked goods. Often she combines nonfat and light cream cheeses for the best-tasting results.

Crowell uses granulated fructose - which is available at health food markets - in many of her recipes because it seems to cause glucose to rise more slowly in the bloodstream than sucrose. However, it's three to five times more expensive than sucrose, which can be used interchangeably in most of her recipes.

Crowell also likes to use maple sugar granules as a sweetener in some recipes, but brown sugar can be substituted. ``Maple sugar granules, available in health food stores, are more costly (about $6 a pound), but they give cookies a wonderful crispness,'' noted Crowell.

When making recipes with little or no fat, avoid overbeating or overmixing the batter, because it can result in a finished product that is rubbery, said Crowell. ``Nothing goes out of my wholesale bakery that has a rubbery, sticky or gummy consistency,'' she said, adding that that is what differentiates her products from those of her counterparts.

Applesauce or pureed fruits (including baby food fruits) are used to replace part of the fat in some recipes.

Crowell uses mostly egg whites and liquid egg substitutes in recipes requiring eggs. But sometimes egg yolks and whole eggs are used in combination with egg whites to yield the best product. If you use egg whites only in certain cookie recipes, you will end up with an undesirably cakey - not crisp - cookie. When cooking with egg whites, figure that eight large egg whites yield about 1 cup.

Chocolate chips and nuts are used in some recipes, but the amounts have been reduced from standard recipes to reduce the fat.

Remember that reducing fat in recipes automatically reduces calories.

When baking reduced-fat items, watch carefully, removing cakes and muffins when a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

For best results when baking cookies, preheat oven at least 30 minutes prior to baking and check for doneness two to three minutes before the time indicated on the recipe. Cookies should be slightly golden, not brown in color. Store completely cooled cookies in large, zipper-style plastic bags.

If wrapped individually in plastic wrap and placed in freezer bags, cookies, muffins and brownies can be frozen 30 days - no longer.

Come Sunday, Crowell will not be baking but enjoying brunch with her mother, grandmother and children at a restaurant in Santa Monica. Meanwhile, here are some recipes from Crowell's book. Bake, share and indulge - with your mom and others.

WHITE CHOCOLATE-RASPBERRY TRUFFLE CHEESECAKE

This recipe is fantastic and tremendously reduced in fat.

1 Graham Cracker Crust (recipe follows) pressed onto bottom of a 9-inch springform pan 

2 packages (8 ounces EACH) light cream cheese, softened

2 packages (8 ounces EACH) nonfat cream cheese, softened

1 cup fructose OR table sugar (sucrose)

3/4 cup liquid egg substitute

1 cup nonfat plain yogurt

1 1/2 cups vanilla OR white chocolate chips

1/3 cup fruit-sweetened raspberry preserves

1/4 cup nonfat evaporated milk

1 1/2 cups fresh raspberries, rinsed and drained

Place Graham Cracker Crust in freezer while preparing filling.

In a large bowl, beat 3 packages cream cheese and fructose with an electric mixer until well blended. Add egg substitute and yogurt and beat about 2 minutes. Pour filling into prepared crust; set aside.

In a medium bowl, beat remaining cream cheese, 3/4 cup vanilla chips and raspberry preserves with an electric mixer until well blended. Drop by rounded tablespoonfuls onto plain cheese filling. Do not swirl.

Bake in preheated 300-degree oven 1 hour and 40 minutes or until filling jiggles slightly when tapped.

Melt remaining 3/4 cup white chips with evaporated milk over low heat stirring constantly, until smooth; pour over cheesecake, spreading evenly. Cool in refrigerator at least 2 hours before removing pan rim. Top with fresh raspberries, pointed tips up. Makes 14 servings.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SERVING: 376 calories; 16 grams fat; 45 grams carbohydrates; 12 grams protein; 27 milligrams cholesterol; 483 milligrams sodium.

GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST

The most commonly used crust, this is always a favorite with cheesecake.

2 1/4 cups graham cracker crumbs 

1/3 cup reduced-fat margarine, melted

1/4 cup maple syrup granules OR granulated brown sugar

In a medium bowl, mix together all ingredients until crumbly. Press onto bottom and sides of an ungreased 9-inch pie pan, tart pan OR springform pan (depending on recipe). Chill before filling. Makes 1 (9-inch) crust.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER 1/10 OF CRUST: 147 calories; 5 grams fat; 23 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0 mi2lligrams cholesterol; 73 milligrams sodium.

FRESH FRUIT BAVARIAN CUSTARD TART

1 1/2 cups nonfat milk

1 1/4 cups granulated (white) sugar

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter

1/4 cup cornstarch 

3/4 cup egg whites

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 Graham Cracker Crust (recipe above) pressed into a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom and baked in preheated 325-degree oven 15 minutes, then cooled

Fresh fruit of the season for decorating top

In a medium saucepan, combine 1 cup milk, sugar and butter. Cook over low heat until mixture comes to a boil, stirring constantly. Remove from heat.

In a small bowl, combine remaining 1/2 cup milk and cornstarch; whisk together until milk dissolves.

Combine egg whites and cornstarch mixture and add to butter mixture and cook, stirring, until boiling. Remove from heat. Stir in vanilla. Cool in refrigerator at least 2 hours. Turn into prepared, cooled tart crust. Decorate with fresh fruits of the season. Makes 1 tart, 12 servings.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SERVING: 174 calories; 7 grams fat; 28 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 11 milligrams cholesterol; 142 milligrams sodium.

L.A.'S BEST CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES

The customers at Krystine's Healthy Gourmet Bakery came up with the name for these cookies. They are fabulous!

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking soda 

1/2 cup butter (do not substitute), softened

1/4 cup reduced-fat margarine

1 1/2 cups maple syrup granules OR 3/4 cup fructose AND 3/4 cup granulated brown sugar

1/2 cup egg whites

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 cup rolled oats, ground fine in a blender OR food processor

3/4 cup semisweet chocolate chips

Spray a cookie sheet with vegetable oil spray. Into a small bowl, sift together flour and baking soda; set aside.

In a large bowl, beat butter, margarine and maple granules with an electric mixer until smooth. Add egg whites and vanilla and beat 15 seconds. Add flour mixture to butter mixture2 and stir until thoroughly combined. Stir in ground oats and chocolate chips.

Using an ice cream scoop, drop batter in mounds about 1 inch apart on prepared baking sheet. Bake in preheated 325-degree oven 12 to 15 minutes. Cool slightly on baking sheet, then remove to a wire rack to cool completely. Makes 24 cookies.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER COOKIE: 147 calories; 6 grams fat; 20 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 10 milligrams cholesterol; 106 milligrams sodium.

THE MILLION-DOLLAR PEANUT BUTTER CRUNCH COOKIE

These peanut butter cookies are divine.

1/2 cup reduced-fat margarine

1/2 cup creamy reduced-fat peanut butter

1 1/2 cups maple syrup granules OR granulated brown sugar

1/2 cup fructose OR table sugar (sucrose)

4 egg whites

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1 cup quick-cooking rolled oats

2 cups Special K cereal

1/3 cup sweetened flaked coconut

In a large bowl, beat margarine, peanut butter, maple syrup granules, fructose and egg whites until creamy.

In a medium bowl, sift together flour, baking soda and baking powder; stir into creamed mixture. Add oats, cereal and coconut and stir until combined.

Using an ice cream scoop, drop dough in mounds about 1-inch apart onto ungreased baking sheets. Bake in preheated 325-degree oven 20 minutes or until golden brown. Cool slightly on baking sheet, then remove to a wire rack to cool completely. Makes 30 cookies.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER COOKIE: 132 calories; 4 grams fat; 22 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0 milligrams cholesterol; 116 milligrams sodium.

TRIPLE-CHOCOLATE BLISS COOKIES

If this isn't chocolate bliss, I don't know what is. White chocolate chips and milk chocolate chunks in a most satisfying and glorious chocolate-based cookie.

1 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder 

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup reduced-fa2t margarine

2/3 cup fructose OR table sugar (sucrose)

1/3 cup maple syrup granules OR granulated brown sugar

1/4 cup egg whites OR liquid egg substitute

1/4 cup strong coffee

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/3 cup white chocolate chips

1/2 cup chopped milk chocolate bar

Spray a baking sheet with vegetable oil spray. Into a small bowl, sift together flour, cocoa, baking soda and salt; set aside. In a large bowl, beat margarine, fructose and maple syrup granules with an electric mixer until light and creamy. Add egg whites and beat until thoroughly combined. Add flour mixture, coffee and vanilla to chocolate mixture and stir until well mixed. Fold in white chocolate chips and milk chocolate bar.

Drop by teaspoonfuls about 1-inch apart onto prepared baking sheet. Bake in preheated 325-degree oven 15 to 20 minutes. Cool slightly on baking sheet, then remove to a wire rack to cool completely. Makes 24 cookies.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER COOKIE: 99 calories; 3 grams fat; 16 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0 milligrams cholesterol; 95 milligrams sodium.

RASPBERRY STREUSEL MUFFINS

This is my favorite of all muffins.

STREUSEL TOPPING:

4 tablespoons butter, chilled

1/2 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

2/3 cup fructose OR table sugar (sucrose)

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

MUFFINS:

2 cups plus 1 tablespoon unbleached all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 cup butter, softened

1 cup fructose OR table sugar (sucrose)

1 cup nonfat raspberry OR vanilla yogurt

1/2 cup egg whites OR liquid egg substitute

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup fresh OR frozen raspberries

Spray a 12-cup muffin pan with vegetable oil spray. Make Streusel Topping: In a small bowl, combine all topping ingredients and mix with your fingers until combined.

For Muffins, in another small bowl, sift together 2 cups flour and baking powder; set aside. In a medium bowl, beat butter and fructose with an electric mixer until ligha2t and creamy. Add yogurt, egg whites and vanilla and mix until combined.

In a small bowl, sprinkle remaining 1 tablespoon flour over raspberries and gently toss together. Combine flour mixture with yogurt mixture and stir until combined. Fold in raspberries.

Spoon batter into prepared muffin cups. With a teaspoon, sprinkle some of Streusel Topping on each muffin. Bake in preheated 375-degree oven 25 minutes or until wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean. Makes 12 muffins.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER MUFFIN: 359 calories; 12 grams fat; 59 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 31 milligrams cholesterol; 200 milligrams sodium.

BLUE-RIBBON FUDGY BROWNIES

This award-winning recipe has been in my family for decades. I have altered the original recipe so that the fat and cholesterol have been reduced considerably. All of the ingredients can be prepared in one pan. It's as easy as one, two, three

Thank you, Aunt Jan, for this sensational recipe.

1 cup reduced-fat margarine

1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

2 eggs

1/2 cup egg whites

2 cups fructose OR table sugar (sucrose)

3/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

1/2 cup chopped walnuts

1 teaspoon vanilla

Spray a 15x10-inch OR 9x13-inch baking pan with cooking oil spray. In a large saucepan, melt margarine with cocoa over low heat. Remove from heat. Whisk in eggs, egg whites, fructose and flour until thoroughly combined. Stir in walnuts and vanilla.

Pour onto prepared baking pan. Bake in preheated 400-degree oven 25 to 30 minutes. Cool in pan on a wire rack. Cut into 18 pieces. Makes 18 brownies.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER BROWNIE: 205 calories; 8 grams fat; 32 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 23 milligrams cholesterol; 143 milligrams sodium.

NONFAT CHOCOLATE DEVASTATION CAKE

When you try this magnificent cake, you're not going to believe it has no added fat. I must thank Auntie Paula for contributing this winning recipe.

2 cups cake flour

1 cup maple syra2up granules, fructose OR table sugar (sucrose)

1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

2 teaspoons baking soda

1 cup nonfat plain yogurt

1/4 cup egg whites OR liquid egg substitute

1 cup water

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

1 tablespoon vanilla

Nonfat Chocolate Frosting (recipe follows)

Generously spray a 9-inch round cake pan with vegetable oil spray. Into a medium bowl, sift together flour, maple syrup granules, cocoa and baking soda; set aside.

In a large bowl, beat yogurt, egg whites, water, vinegar and vanilla until blended. Add flour mixture to yogurt mixture and beat with an electric mixer until thoroughly combined, about 3 minutes.

Pour batter into prepared pan. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 35 to 45 minutes or until wooden pick inserted into center comes out clean. Let cool in pan 10 minutes, then remove cake from pan to a plate. Pour warm Nonfat Chocolate Frosting over warm cake and let set before serving. Makes 10 servings.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SERVING WITH FROSTING: 315 calories; 0.4 grams fat; 72 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0 milligrams cholesterol; 195 milligrams sodium.

NONFAT CHOCOLATE FROSTING

This frosting is very smooth, almost pudding-like. It goes with just about any type of cake.

1/3 cup cornstarch

1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

1 1/2 cups fructose OR table sugar (sucrose)

3 cups water

Into a medium saucepan, sift together cornstarch, cocoa and fructose. Add water and whisk thoroughly. Cook over low heat, whisking occasionally, until thickened, about 40 minutes. Use frosting while still warm. Makes enough frosting for single layer 9-inch cake.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER 1/8 OF RECIPE: 202 calories; 0 grams fat; 50 grams carbohydrates; 0 grams protein; 0 milligrams cholesterol; 0 milligrams sodium.

LOW-FAT SUN-KISSED ORANGE BISCOTTI 

These cookies are a refreshing treat. With the added touch of orange, they can be served at any occasion.

2 1/4 cups unblea2ached all-purpose flour

1 cup fructose OR table sugar (sucrose)

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

3 large eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla

2 1/2 tablespoons freshly grated orange rind

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice

Spray a large baking sheet with vegetable oil spray. Into a large bowl, sift together flour, fructose, baking powder, baking soda and salt; set aside. In a small bowl, beat eggs, vanilla, orange rind and orange juice with an electric mixer until thoroughly combined. Add orange rind mixture to flour mixture and beat until well blended.

Using floured hands, form dough into 2 (12-inch long) strips; flatten to 1-inch thickness. Arrange logs on prepared baking sheet. Bake in preheated 325-degree oven 25 minutes or until firm to the touch.

Remove rolls from baking sheet to a wire rack; let cool 10 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 275 degrees. Using a serrated knife, cut logs diagonally into 1/2-inch thick slices. Arrange slices, cut side down, on baking sheet. Bake 30 minutes longer. Transfer cookies to a wire rack and cool completely. Makes 28 cookies.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER COOKIE: 80 calories; 0.5 gram fat; 16 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 22 milligrams cholesterol; 52 milligrams sodium.

LOW-FAT NEW YORK CHEESECAKE

Quick and simple, this American original is a favorite at the bakery. It's great for any occasion, a hit with family and friends.

CHEESECAKE:

1 Graham Cracker Crust (recipe above), pressed onto bottom of a 9-inch springform pan

3 packages (8 ounces EACH) nonfat cream cheese, softened

1 cup liquid egg substitute

3/4 cup fructose OR table sugar (sucrose)

1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 teaspoon vanilla

TOPPING:

1 cup nonfat sour cream

1/3 cup fructose OR table sugar (sucrose)

Place Graham Cracker Crust in freezer while preparing filling.

For Cheesecake Filling, in a large bowl, beat together cream chea2ese, egg substitute, fructose, lemon juice and vanilla with an electric mixer until smooth and creamy.

Pour filling into prepared crust. Bake in preheated 375-degree oven 40 minutes. Remove from oven and increase oven temperature to 450 degrees.

For Topping, in a small bowl, whisk sour cream and fructose until combined. Spread over cheesecake. Bake at 450 degrees 15 minutes more. Cool in refrigerator at least 4 hours before removing pan rim. Makes 14 servings.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SERVING: 259 calories; 5 grams fat; 74 grams carbohydrates; 11 grams protein; 6 milligrams cholesterol; 368 milligrams sodium.

SPOTLIGHT ON ...

Krystine Crowell

Age: 32.

Profession: Owner, Krystine's Healthy Gourmet Bakery and Catering Co. in Venice.

Hometown: Born in Gardena, grew up in Torrance.

Food background: Mostly self-taught. At age 14, Crowell began working in an Italian restaurant kitchen helping make pasta sauces, sandwiches and baked goods.

Most popular baked item she makes: L.A.'s Best Chocolate Chip Cookies, which are sold through her wholesale bakery (the recipe is also in her new cookbook and included today so readers can make them at home).

Pet peeve: People who arrive late.

Favorite cookbook: ``The New Basics Cookbook'' by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins; ``The Cake Bible'' by Rose Levy Beranbaum.

Ideal vacation: A trip with her husband and two children to a tropical island where there's marvelous food.

Three favorite foods: Caribbean and Cuban food; chocolate cake with nonfat vanilla yogurt; sushi.

Favorite junk food: Homemade tortilla chips and homemade salsa.

Food she hates: Canned seafood.

Secret food passion: Ketchup with her fillet mignon.

Favorite restaurant: L'Orangerie in Los Angeles.

Favorite thing to cook and eat: Homemade chicken tacos.

Favorite kitchen gadget: Commercial blender.

What does she do when not baking?: Runs her kids around - to basketball and ballet.

If she couldn't be in the bakery business what would she be?: A lawyer.

Dream job: A food critic.

If she could dine with anyone (current or historical), who would it be?: Julia Child.

Most memorable meal: At L'Orangerie. ``I had lobster and eight different courses - it was outstanding,'' said Crowell.

Worst kitchen disaster: In a special-order carrot cake for a party, the baking soda was left out. The cake turned out flat and unattractive and the baker notified Crowell that something was amiss shortly after the cake was baked. Crowell went into the bakery at midnight, remade the cake and finished decorating it about 4 a.m. in the morning. Disaster averted.

- Natalie Haughton

CAPTION(S):

Photo, Box

Photo: (Color) Granada Hills resident Krystine Crowell presents an array of creations from ``Krystine's Healthy Gourmet Bakery Cookbook.''

Terri Thuente/Daily News

Box: SPOTLIGHT ON ... Krystine Crowell (See Text)