VACATION PLANS FERMENT AT SONOMA VISITORS CENTER.

Byline: Laurie Daniel Knight-Ridder Tribune News Wire

With its huge size and spread-out wineries, Sonoma County will never be another Napa.

This is a blessing for anyone who hates the crowds along the Napa Valley's winery-lined main drag, Highway 29. But it can be intimidating for anyone unfamiliar with Sonoma County's meandering back roads.

Enter the Sonoma County Wine & Visitors Center, in Rohnert Park, just south of Santa Rosa, with video exhibits, interactive touch screens and a tasting bar, all designed to give visitors an overview of the Sonoma wine country.

Just inside the entrance is a gift shop featuring books, T-shirts and two wines from each member of the Sonoma County Wineries Association. Some wines are of the easy-to-find variety, but ``for some wineries, this may be their only visibility in the county,'' executive director Linda Johnson said. One example is Wild Hog Vineyard in Cazadero, which is way off the beaten path and takes visitors by appointment only.

When you've had your fill of shopping, head for the tasting bar or one of the exhibits. Wine tasting is conducted from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily, and three wines are tasted every week. One is always a chardonnay from the Sonoma County Wineries Association, available for purchase only at the visitors center.

At a large topographical map, you can select a video on one of many growing regions, such as the Dry Creek or Alexander valleys. Many of the center's visitors are from abroad, so the commentary is in German and Japanese as well as English.

A touch-screen kiosk allows you to select information about various wineries and even plan a wine-tasting itinerary, which you can then print out. There's also a computer that is on-line with the county library.

The center has housed a bonded winery since November 1993. The small facility is designed to let visitors see the winemaking process. But it's also a working winery: The winery association's chardonnay is made there.

If you can ignore Highway 101, the scene in back of the center is positively bucolic. A large deck sits next to Roberts Lake, a good picnic spot in nice weather.

If, after visiting the center, you feel inspired to strike out on your own, there are some wineries that are reasonably close and easy to find. The easiest way to visit several wineries without navigating back roads is to head north from the center on Highway 101 and exit on Highway 12 east, toward the town of Sonoma. Highway 12 takes you through the Sonoma Valley past half a dozen or so wineries, including Kenwood, Landmark and Chateau St. Jean.

Another easy-to-find winery is Chateau de Baun, right off Highway 101. Exit at River Road; after a mile, make a right on Fulton Road. The hospitality center, a mock French chateau, is one mile up on the left. You'll find something a little out of the ordinary here: Chateau de Baun specializes in wines made from the little-used Symphony grape, a cross between muscat of Alexandria and grenache gris.

Then, if you're ready for more, head back to River Road. Just a little farther west, you'll come to Martinelli and Z Moore wineries, which sit next to each other on the south side of the road.

Getting there From northbound Highway 101, exit in Rohnert Park at Golf Course Drive and bear left at Commerce Boulevard. At stop sign, turn right on Golf Course Drive. At next stop sign, turn left on Roberts Lake Road. Turn right into first parking lot and you will see the center. The address is 5000 Roberts Lake Road, Rohnert Park, Calif. 94928.

Hours: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. Wine tasting from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily.

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