Umami: the fifth element.

Whenever we consume food, we instinctively perceive much more than its obvious flavors. Our palates experience aspects of food that we may not understand or even be aware of. Any dish's flavor can be dramatically altered by our unique sense of taste or perception. The most basic function of food preference, or sense of taste, is the ability to detect the almost indiscernible subtleties of the foods we eat.

There is a whole range of tastes that we, as chefs, can tap into to make our dishes more appealing. If we are conscious of how our diners experience the food we cook, we can prepare dishes that far transcend the basic purpose of filling their stomachs.

TASTE SENSATION

As culinarians, we try to create the perfect balance between the four basic tastes: sweet, salty, sour, and bitter. As diners, however, we have all experienced that intensity that somehow eludes definition: that enigmatic fifth taste known as umami. Yet up until the nineteenth century, the Western world believed that our mouths could not sense anything beyond the basic four tastes. In actuality, however, our ability to perceive other tastes has been known throughout the world for thousands of years. In ancient Greece, Aristotle identified seven basic tastes: sweet, salty, sour, bitter, spicy, astringent, and sandy. As early as 1000 B.C., the Chinese documented five basic tastes whereas believers in ancient Indian yogic principles identified eight. Nevertheless, these early classifications were based more on observation than scientific fact.

In recent history, the debate on the validity of umami has been a heated one, to say the least, especially in America, where the concept of umami has taken quite some time to gain recognition. Throughout this controversy, one question has most often been disputed: Is umami a taste or a flavor? The answer lies in the definition of these two terms. Taste involves only a single sensation of each of the five basic tastes. A flavor, on the other hand, is a combination of multiple sensations experienced at the same time. Flavor, most notably, includes taste and smell.

By isolating the sense of taste, we can illustrate the difference between a taste and a flavor. If you bold your nose while eating a lemon, for example, the only sensation that you perceive is sourness, a taste. The sour taste of a lemon cannot be distinguished from that of vinegar, yet when you proceed to open your nose and inhale, you can sense the specific flavor of lemon.

Umami can be perceived by taste alone. Although the presence of other basic tastes (sweet, salty, sour, and bitter) does make umami more apparent, the entire sensation is experienced on the tongue. This categorizes umami as a basic taste, not a flavor. Despite this fact, umami has not always been considered a basic taste in America. In the 1950's, the FDA categorized umami as a flavor enhancer because it requires the presence of other tastes in order to be perceived. It wasn't until 1990 at an international symposium that umami was widely accepted as the fifth basic taste.

PERFECTING THE PALATE

Ever since people have savored food, they have felt the presence of umami but have had trouble in accurately defining the term.

Umami is a Japanese word that roughly translates into English as "robust" or "delicious." Umami can also be described as heartiness, savoriness, or fullness of the mouth.

Even though it was only recently "discovered," many foods and seasonings popular throughout history have been naturally high inumami. One such flavoring agent used in ancient Greece and Rome was a pickled fish sauce called garum. This condiment dates back 2500 years, making it the oldest recorded umami seasoning. Other classic international dishes that include umami are Japanese broth true Italian pizzas, and French sauces.

In addition to pleasing the palate, umami was beneficial to early human survival. Our bodies are actually designed to appreciate and even crave the umami taste. Historically, one purpose of our sense of taste is to enable us to differentiate between healthy and harmful foods. Specifically, we naturally desire sweet foods so that we can maintain enough calories in our diet. Likewise, our affinity towards salt allows us to keep the proper water balance in our bodies. On the other hand, many sour and bitter foods were either unhealthy or poisonous for early humans. Our ancestors, therefore, naturally craved or avoided certain tastes in foods. Humans' preference for the umami taste ensured they would consume the proper amino acids to make proteins, which in turn forms muscle tissue. Their desire for umami--as well as the other four tastes--actually helped early humans to maintain their health by ensuring that they ate a balanced diet.

Even the word umami has an interesting history of its own. The root comes from the word uma'i, a Japanese word derived from Zen, indicating goodness. The word umami also stems from a Zen word signifying oneness with the universe. Based on the spiritual connotation of these words from which umami is derived, the term is sometimes used to convey a broader concept than simply a taste. In a more philosophical sense, umami can be thought of as the intangible satisfaction involved in the total experience of eating. Umami also suggests a deep connection and feeling of oneness with the food we eat. From a culinary standpoint, this concept is very appealing. The ability to promote a spiritual bond between our diners and our dishes is something that all chefs strive for. In this sense, umami is rooted in our love for food and the reasons we cook. This philosophy of the spiritual power of food is one that is gaining both recognition and praise in the culinary world.

WEIRD SCIENCE

Row for the fun part--scientifically, umami is the sensation caused by the presence of free glutamate in food. Glutamate is the most widely occurring amino acid in nature and a main component of proteins. It accounts for 40% of plant protein and 15-20% of animal protein. Although proteins cannot be tasted, the amino acids produced as they break down can - - this is part of why fruit tastes better as it ripens. Umami can also be achieved with the presence of certain nucleotides. These nucleotides, when combined with glutamate, can also have a synergistic effect, and the resulting umami sensation can be up to nine times stronger than the ingredients could produce individually. When scallops, for example, an ingredient high in free glutamate, are combined with dried shiitake mushrooms, an ingredient with high levels of nucleotides, the umami sensation in the finished dish will be greatly increased. Aging, drying, and fermenting certain ingredients can also concentrate their umami levels. Aged beef, for example, has more umami than fresh beef. Similarly, drying skipjack (a small Pacific fish in the tuna family) or shiitake mushrooms substantially increases their existing umami levels.

In 1909, shortly after the discovery of umami, monosodium glutamate, or MSG, began to be produced commercially. MSG is a powdered form of glutamate made by fermenting molasses from sugar cane and beets. It has quickly become the primary umami seasoning used worldwide. The addition of MSG is the quickest and easiest method of introducing umami to a dish. Because of this fact, this seasoning has become extremely popular in Chinese cuisine. MSG can add the feeling of depth and "meatiness" to food that does not actually contain any meat. Adding MSG also makes a dish cheaper because the more expensive ingredients can be cut out completely. Common egg drop soup at many Chinese restaurants, for example, contains no actual chicken stock, which would normally cause the umami sensation in the dish, Instead, it is comprised of nothing more than water, cornstarch, MSG, eggs, and food coloring. MSG is substituted for the stock in order to lower food costs. Umami, however, includes a much wider spectrum than just MSG. Say ing that MSG is umami is like saying that everything sweet is sugar. There are many foods that have naturally high levels of umami. These ingredients can be used instead of MSG to truly harmonize a dish.

FOODS HIGH IN UMAMI

KONBU (DRIED KELP USED FOR JAPANESE BROTH)

* DASHI

* PARMESAN CHEESE

* NORI

* MUSHROOMS (ESPECIALLY DRIED SHIIT AKES)

* TOMATOES

* SCALLOPS

* PORK

* CHICKEN

* TUNA

* HAM

* SOY SAUCE

* WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE

Umami can also interact with other basic tastes to create new levels of flavor. Since umami is difficult to taste on its own, the presence of other tastes, especially sweet, intensifies the feeling of umami. For example, adding sweetness enhances umami in shellfish, especially oysters. To put it simply, professional chefs can utilize the fifth taste, umami, to elevate the taste and flavor of their dishes far beyond what they thought possible.

There are many intricacies of taste that we, as chefs, must master in order to please our diners. With a solid understanding of the principles of umami as part of our repertoire, we can create dishes that far surpass our customers' expectations.

RELATED ARTICLE: UMAMI TIMELINE

1000 B.C.

The Yellow Emperor's book of internal medicine, an ancient Chinese text, is the first to classify the five basic tastes.

500 B.C.

Garum, a pickled fish sauce extremely rich in umami, is the most commonly used seasoning ingredient of the ancient Greeks and Romans. It is the first recorded umami seasoning ever used.

1825

In his book, The Physiology of Taste, Brillat-Savanin makes reference to "osmazome." Considered a precursor to the concept of umami.

1908

Professor Kikunae Ikeda officially discovers umami and identifies glutamate as the main cause of the sensation.

1909

The first commercial production of MSG begins. The sensation of umami can now be added to food using a seasoning agent

1920's

The We stern concept of the four basic tastes (sweet, salty, sour, and bitter) is first introduced and adopted by culinarians in the United States.

1950's

The FDA rejects umami as the fifth basic taste, categorizing it as a flavor enhancer.

1990

Umami is ultimately widely accepted as the fifth basic taste.

GARY DANK

* WHEN YOU TAKE RAW ASPARAGUS AND YOU COOK THEM, AT SOME POINT IN THE COOKING PROCESS, THEY STOP BEING PULPY AND SOMEWHAT BITTER AND START TO BECOME SWEET. AT THIS POINT, YOU HAVE CREATED UMAMI.

Raised in a small town in upstate New York, Gary Danko credits his mother for his introduction to the culinary world: Her Louisiana roots - - as well as her use of farm fresh ingredients and flair for balancing flavors with simple seasonings - - all influence his cooking style even today. At fourteen, Danko landed a job in a local restaurant where he managed to learn all facets of the business by the time he had graduated from high school. Mastering the techniques and subtleties of professional cooking while attending The Culinary Institute of America, Danko became immersed in his lifelong pursuit of excellence in the culinary arts. Upon graduation, Danko move to San Francisco, jockeying positions as both cook and waiter in the Bay Area. Eventually returning East, Danko became the chef at the Tucker Hill Inn in Vermont, where his passion for using fresh local products - - such as butter, cheese, and produce - was further fueled.

Enrolling in one of Madeleine Kamman's classes at Peter Kump's New York Cooking School in 1983 only increased Danko's appreciation for Kamman - - whom he bad admired for years - and her creative and visionary approach to cooking. From there, he enrolled in her cooking school in New Hampshire, and thus a close friendship was forged. Even today, Kamman's influence is evident in Danko's cooking style.

Subsequently appointed to Beringer Vineyard's food and wine externship in Napa County, California, Danko soon took the helm as Executive Chef. While in this position, Danko assisted in building Beringer's culinary center, known for its respected educational programs. With Beringer's purchase of Chauteau Souverain in Sonoma County, Danko eventually took the position of Executive Chef of the restaurant. At this point, Danko was on the path to gaining national acclaim. Four years later, Danko moved on to The Ritz-Carlton San Francisco.

After leaving The Ritz-Carlton, Chef Danko began to lay the groundwork for opening his own restaurant but not before launching Viognier in San Mateo, California. The creation and execution of Gary Danko, the restaurant, came to fruition in 1999 and since then, Danko continues to garner accolades.

The topic of umami is not a new one for Chef Danko. His cuisine often reflects the umami theme. His understanding of what constitutes the fifth primary taste also relates to wine: "While at Beringer's Vineyard, I made a few observations. As with other tastes, umami is often hidden behind strong tastes such as saltiness. Saltiness in foods high in umami neutralizes the bitter or metallic tastes in the wine you drink with these foods. If a dish needs more dimensions, I'll add some foods that are high in umami tastes like cheese, or scallops, or wild mushrooms. If a dish is perfectly balanced between all five tastes, it will go with any wine. When a dish interferes with the taste of the wine, it's usually because the dish is too high in umami or sweetness. Those two flavor elements make wines taste stronger - - heightening the tannins or bitterness. To balance the dish, I found it works best to add a squeeze of lemon or perhaps a pinch of sea salt. This final correction with the lemon and salt has become habit. I also may add a bit of soy sauce if the accompanying wine tastes too aggressive. On the opposite side of the spectrum, if a dish tastes too acidic and the partnered wine tastes flat, adding a pinch of sugar will usually remedy the situation."

HARUG HBU

* EVEN THOUGH I'VE BEEN COOKING FOR FORTY YEARS, 1 STILL MAKE AN EFFORT TO STUDY THE COOKING OF JAPANESE FOOD EVERY DAY AND TRY TO LEARN NEW THINGS AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE."

Located on the ground floor of the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel, Inagiku represents traditional Japanese culture and cuisine at its very best. While once primarily catering to Japanese businessmen, it now readily attracts young professionals, who just happen to be Westerners. No matter what side of the globe you hail from, the food is the main attraction at Inagiku - - delivered with unswerving precision and graciousness by a kimono-clad wait staff. Chef Harou Ohbu is at Inagiku's helm and demands as much from his kitchen and front-of-the-house staff as he does of himself.

Cooking for over forty years--with twenty or so of these in the States--Chef Ohbu features the fare of his homeland where he spent much of his youth: "My parents had a restaurant in Mito, Japan, while I was growing up. My older brothers cooked, also--it was a family affair. While still in Japan, I was able to study with two Master Chefs: Yuzo Kosuge and Isamu Ikeda. They were definitely my biggest professional cooking influences."

Although cooking his beloved Japanese cuisine for many years has brought Chef Ohbu much respect and happiness, he is acutely aware that--to remain successful--he must continually seek inspiration: "Even though I've been cooking for forty years, I still make an effort to study the cooking of Japanese food every day and try to learn new things as much as possible. I enjoy reading books and searching the Internet during the course of my studies. I like to take ingredients that I've used for many years and prepare them in new ways. This is how I come up with fresh ideas. I also travel to Japan often--going from north to south. This helps me think of new dishes and also allows me to search for new ingredients."

The subject of umami is a natural one for Chef Ohbu: "In Japanese cooking, umami is about bringing out flavors rather than adding to the flavor. With other tastes, for example, salty or sweet, ingredients are added to change the flavor but with umami, it is already present. It is about balancing ingredients to best withdraw flavors. For this to happen, there is no specific recipe. It is about tradition and experience and an understanding of the technique of Eastern cooking."

As Executive Chef of Bond Street restaurant, Linda Rodriguez offers a menu reflecting a myriad of experiences along with an innate sense of Japanese cuisine. Born in the Philippines but raised for the majority of her life in America, Rodriguez's humble restaurant beginnings served as a precursor to her successful yet ever-evolving career in food: "I grew up in a small town in Florida that was known as a restaurant town. I bussed tables, waited tables--pretty much did everything and anything that was needed in a number of places. It wasn't until I moved to Baton Rouge, Louisiana, though, that I started to get interested in working in a kitchen. I worked in a kitchen that created French and Chinese cuisine. After apprenticing there for about two years, the head chef encouraged me to go to The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. After school, I apprenticed at Le Bernadin, Park Avenue Cafe, and Lespinasse. In 1995, after working with Rik Laakkonen at River Cafe, I decided to pursue my interest i n Japanese cuisine and happily ended up at Nobu with Chef Matsuhisa. When they decided to open Nobu in London, I was sent there to consult. And although I would have liked to stay there for awhile, as luck would have it, I ended up back in New York City where I was recruited for Bond Street."

By her own admission, Rodriguez's menu has evolved through trial and error over the last five years at Bond Street: "I think my current menu reflects the best of the best--garnered from a culmination of all of my menus throughout the years. I've learned a lot and even though I'm not Japanese, I've always tried to stay within the Japanese realm and concept, not going past the boundaries associated with this type of cuisine."

At Bond Street, self-taught Executive Sushi Chef Hiroshi Nakahara's innovative creations are a play on classic sushi sashimi themes. Labeling himself one part artist and one part chef, Chef Nakahara uses ingredients and flavors that highlight his unique style and reflect his experience in establishments such as the Sushi Bar at the Sony Club, Fujisawa, and the T Salon in the Guggenheim Museum. With a diverse palate of skills, flavors, and textures, Nakahara brings his style of cuisine to a higher level of sophistication. In addition, his teaching is a source of inspiration for him: Nakahara feels that training others in sushi and sashimi making--although routine and exacting--allows for a certain amount of creativity. This creative sharing with his staff serves as a source of inspiration and motivation for him.

LINDA RODRIGUEZ & HIROSHI NAKAHARA

"I'VE ALWAYS TRIED TO STAY WITHIN THE JAPANESE REALM AND CONCEPT, NOT GOING PAST THE BOUNDARIES ASSOCIATED WITH THIS TYPE OF CUISINE." LINDA RODRIGUEZ

When it comes to Japanese cuisine, both chefs agree that umami should never be forced or contrived. As Nakahara puts it: "Pulling out the umami tastes in ingredients is a natural process and one that shouldn't be too complicated." Chef Rodriguez is in agreement: "Kelp and bonito flakes are used everyday in our stocks. There's no meat in the stock but when you eat it--when you slurp it--it tastes very meaty because of these alternate ingredients that are high in umami tastes."

HIRO SONE

Hiro Sone's food reflects his devotion to many different types of cuisines. His early training focused on French food and technique, but, wisely, he also learned to incorporate the culinary traditions of Japan, China, and Italy into his repertoire.

Starting in the business at a young age, Chef Sane was quick to catch on; working alongside his mother at the tender age of five, he developed an affinity for using the freshest ingredients available, a practice he follows to this day. Dedicated to using locally grown produce and meat, his dishes showcase his ability to capture ingredients at their best, and all this is done with the skill and precision of a well-experienced sushi chef (another one of Chef Sone's many accomplishments): "My food has simplified over the years. I tend to put less extraneous ingredients on the dish - - things that just aren't necessary. I think this creates a better balance of flavors as well."

Discussing the topic of umami for Art Culinaire, Chef Sane puts this hard-to-define concept into perspective: "Umami is a great subject but very difficult to explain. It's not a new concept, but I think one that Westerners had to put a name to. Basically, umami tastes are everywhere and in Asian cuisine, it's a natural occurrence. I'm reminded of shojin ryori, which was originally vegan cooking practiced by Zen Buddhists. This type of cooking was a part of their very strict training. They made stocks, and this is still practiced, with dried shiitakes, dried soybeans, and dried seaweed. These ingredients are high in natural umami tastes and make a nice "meaty" stock with great color. These stocks are probably the best example of natural umami. Today, shojin ryori refers to any formal vegetarian meal, but for authenticity sake, it would be purely vegan. Many Japanese associate umami with dashi, which is a soup broth once again made with konbu, but with the addition of bonito flakes and, of course, water. This w ould be a version of fish stock."

Opening Terra in late 1988 with his wife Lissa, Chef Sane continues to draw from the many cultural influences that have inspired his cuisine throughout the years. His creativity and distinctive style have flourished, yet he never loses sight of his Eastern roots that are balanced by Western traditions, as well.

Glazed Oysters with Leffuce Cream

(Serves 4)

GARY DANK

ingredients

For the oysters:
20 Kumamoto oysters, shucked and juices reserved

For the sauce:
Reserved oyster juice
1/2 cup white wine
1/2 cup clam juice
1/2 cup fish stock
1 shallot, peeled and minced
1 thyme sprig
1 bay leaf
1/2 cup heavy cream
2 ounces unsalted butter
Salt and pepper to taste

For the lettuce cream:
1/2 head Boston lettuce
1/2 cup water
1/2 tablespoon heavy cream
Salt to taste

For the garnish:
1 zucchini, scooped into small balls and blanched
Chopped chives
Chervil sprigs
Osetra caviar
Salmon roe

directions

To finish the dish: Add the oysters to the sauce and simmer for 30 seconds.

For the sauce: In a saucepan, combine the oyster juices, wine, clam juice, fish stock, shallot, thyme, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by one-third. Add the cream and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat; add the butter and whisk to combine. Strain through a fine mesh sieve. Season and set aside, keeping warm.

For the lettuce cream: In a saucepan, combine the lettuce, water, and heavy cream. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer until the lettuce is tender. Remove from the heat; transfer to a blender and puree until smooth. Season and set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Spoon the oysters in sauce onto a soup plate and drizzle with the lettuce cream. Garnish with the zucchini, chives, chervil, caviar, and salmon roe.

Chablis, Grand Cru, Les Clos

Domaine Dauvissal

Burgundy, France 2000

Mushroom-Crusted Scallops with Asparagus and Tomato Ragout

(Serves 6)

GARY DANK

ingredients

For the ragout:
2 ounces unsalted butter
12 asparagus, peeled, blanched, and sliced on a bias
1 cup shelled and peeled edamame
12 baby pattypan squash, stemmed and quartered
2 cups chicken stock, reduced by 3/4
3 tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and diced
Salt and pepper to taste

For the sauce:
1 small shallot, peeled and minced
1 1/2 cup white wine
1/2 cup fish stock
1/2 cup clam juice
1 sprig thyme
1 bay leaf
1/4 cup heavy cream
3 ounces unsalted butter Salt and pepper to taste

For the mushroom powder:
1 ounce dried shiitake mushrooms

For the scallops:
2 tablespoons clarified butter
6 large sea scallops
Reserved mushroom powder
Salt to taste

For the dish:
Mashed potatoes

For the garnish:
Chervil sprigs
Chopped chives

directions

For the ragout: In a saucepan, melt the butter. Add the asparagus, edamame, and squash and saute for three minutes. Add the stock and simmer until the vegetables are tender. Add the tomatoes and simmer for one minute. Season and set aside, keeping warm.

For the sauce: In a saucepan, combine the shallot, wine, fish stock, clam juice, thyme, and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer and reduce by two-thirds. Add the cream and whisk until foamy. Add the butter; whisk to combine and remove from the heat. Strain through a fine mesh sieve, pressing to extract the liquid. Season and set aside, keeping warm.

For the mushroom powder: Place the shiitake mushrooms in a blender and pulse to form a fine powder. Pass through a fine mesh sieve and set aside.

For the scallops: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. In a non-stick saute pan, melt the butter. Season the scallops and coat with the mushroom powder. Place in the pan and sear on all sides until golden brown. Remove from the heat and place in the oven until desired doneness. Remove from the heat and set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Spoon a portion of mashed potatoes in the center of a plate and top with a scallop. Arrange a serving of ragout around the dish and spoon a portion of sauce over the scallop. Garnish with the chervil springs and chopped chives.

Chardonnay & Roussanne, Les Deux Nanluu

Victoria, Australia 2000

Giacondas

Yuzu Mousse Cake with Banana Sorbet

(Serves 6)

GARY DANKO

ingredients


For the banana sorbet:
3/4 pound bananas, peeled
6 ounces simple syrup
3/4 tablespoon lemon juice

For the crust:
Softened butter as needed
6 ounces all-purpose flour
1 1/2 ounces granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
3 ounces unsalted butter,
 diced and chilled
1 egg york
1 tablespoon water

For the yuzu musse cake:
6 ounces cream cheese, room
 temperature
Zest of 3/4 lemon
3/4 small vanilla bean, split
 and scraped
2 tablespoons yuzu juice *
2 3/4 ounces granulated sugar
2 1/2 sheets gelatin, softened
 in cold water
1 1/2 cups heavy cream.
 whipped to soft peaks
Reserved crusts

For the yuzu and lemon curd:
3 1/4 ounces granulated sugar
Zest of 1/2 lemon
1/4 cup lemon juice
2 tablespoon yuzu juice *
3 egg, beaten
1 sheet gelatin, softened in cold water
1/2 pound unsalted butter,
 diced and chilled
For the vanilla syrup:
6 ounces granulated sugar
3 ounces water
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

For the citrus salad:
1 grapefruit, peeled and segmented
1 blood orange, peeled and segmented
1 lemon, peeled and segmented
1 lime, peeled and segmented
3 tablespoons candied lemon zest
3 ounces reserved vanilla syrup

For the garnish:
Dried citrus slices
Sugar sticks
Reserved vanilla syrup

* Yuzu juice is from the Japanese yuzu citrus fruit, which is used
mostly for the zest, and has a delicate citrus aroma. Available in
most Asian markets.

directions

For the banana sorbet: Place the bananas in the bowl of a food processor and puree until smooth: Add the simple syrup and lemon juice and blend to combine. Transfer to an ice cream machine and freeze according to the manufacturer's instructions.

For the crust: Preheat the over to 350 degrees. Prepare six 3-inch ring molds with the softened butter and place on a parchment-lined sheet pan. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour, sugar, and salt. Add the butter and mix on low speed until crumbly. Add the egg yolk and water and mix until just combined. Press the mixture into the prepared molds. Place in the oven and bake until golden brown, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

For the yuzu mousse cake: In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the cream cheese, lemon zest, vanilla, yuzu juice, and sugar. Mix until smooth and creamy. Place the gelatin in a microwave safe dish and microwave until melted, about 10 seconds. Add the gelatin to the cream cheese mixture and mix to combine. Fold in the whipped cream and transfer to a pastry bag fitted with a medium round tip. Line the inside of six 3-inch ring molds with acetate and place the reserved crusts at the bottom. Pipe the mousse into the prepared rings and place in the refrigerator until set, about two hours.

For the yuzu and lemon curd: In a saucepan, bring the sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice, and yuzu juice to a simmer. Place the eggs in a bowl and pour the hot sugar mixture over the eggs, whisking constantly. Transfer the mixture to a saucepan and place over low heat, whisking constantly until thickened. Remove from the heat; add the gelatin and then add the butter, half at a time, whisking constantly. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and pour over the mousse cakes. Place in the refrigerator until set, about two hours.

For the vanilla syrup: In a saucepan, combine the sugar, water, and vanilla bean. Bring to 235 degrees; remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

For the citrus salad: In a bowl, combine the grapefruit, blood orange, lemon, lime, and tangerine segments. Add the candied Lemon zest and reserved vanilla syrup. Toss to combine and set aside.

To serve: Unmold a mousse cake and place it in the center of a plate. Arrange the lemon, tangerine, and blood orange segments on top and around the mousse cake. Place a serving of citrus salad and a quenelle of banana sorbet onto the plate. Garnish with dried citrus slices and a sugar stick. Drizzle the plate with the remaining vanilla syrup.

Bannezeaux, Les Mellersses

Rene Renou

Loire, France 1999

Bittersweet Chocolate Tart with Milk Chocolate Mousse Cake

(Serves 12)

GARY DANK

ingredients


For the salary caramel ice cream:
3/8 cup granulated sugar
3/4 tablespoon salt
1/2 cup water
3 tablespoons lemon juice
2 1/4 cups heavy cream
1 1/4 cups whole milk
7 egg yolks

For the tart shell:
4 ounces unsalted butter, softened
4 ounces granulated sugar
1 egg
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 tablesppon unsweetened Dutch
processed cocoa powder, sifted
7 ounces all-purpose flour, sifted

For the chocolate tart filling:
1 cup heavy cream
8 ounces bittersweet
chocolate, chopped
Reserved tart shell

For the chocolate glaze:
8 1/2 ounches bittersweet
chocolate, chopped
8 1/2 ounces pate a glace brune *
1/2 cup simple syrup
1/4 cup corn syrup
1 cup evaporated milk

For the milk chocolate mousse cake:
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup water
9 egg yolks
1 cup milk chocolate, chopped
1 1/2 ounces bittersweet
chocolate, chopped
2 1/2 cups heavy cream
12 chocolate cake rounds
Reserved chocolate glaze

For the garnish:
Fleur de sel
Chocolate sauce
Whipped cream
Chocolate shavings

* Available through Qzina at (800) 532 - 5269.

For the salty caramel ice cream: In a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the sugar, salt, water, and lemon juice to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the mixture becomes dark amber in color. Add the heavy cream and milk; whisk until smooth and whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered egg yolks into the hot cream mixture and place over the back of the spoon, remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sleve. Set over an ice bath until chilled and freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions.

For the tart shell: preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with creamy. Add the egg and vanilla extract and beat until smooth. Add the cocoa powder and flour in addition. Remove the dough from the mixer; wrap in plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator to dough to 3/16-inch thickness and place in a 9-inch tart pan. Dock the surface with a fork and place with dry beans. Place in the oven bad blind hake for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat; remove the beans and return to the oven until baked through, about seven minutes. Remove the from the heat and set aside to cool on a wire track.

For the chocolate tart filling: In a saucepan, bring the heavy cream to a boil. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool slightly. Place the chocolate in a large bowl and pour the heated heavy cream over the chocolate. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside for five minutes. Remove the plastic wrap; stir until combined and pour into the prepared tart shell. Place in the refrigerator until set, about two hours. Cut into 12 slices.

For the chocolate glaze: In a bowl, combine the chocolate and pate a glace. In a saucepan, bring the simple syrup to a boil. Add the corn syrup and evaporated milk and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and pour over the chocolate mixture. Set aside for three minutes and whisk to combine. Set aside at room temperature.

For the milk chocolate mousse: In a saucepan, combine the sugar and water; bring to a boil and cook to 235 degrees. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, beat the egg yolks on high speed until light and foamy. Remove the sugar mixture from the heat; reduce the mixing speed to low. Add to the egg yolks and mix until well combined. In a bowl, combine the milk, bittersweet chocolate, and white chocolate. Melt over a double boiler and whisk until smooth. In a saucepan, heat four ounces of the heavy cream and bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat and pour over the melted chocolate; mix to combine and let cool. Add the sugar and egg yolk mixture and mix to combine. Place the remaining heavy cream in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Whisk to soft peaks; remove from the mixer and fold into the chocolate mixture with a rubber spatula. Transfer the mixture to a pastry bag fitted with a medium round tip and pipe into 12 flexible plastic dome molds. Top with the c ake rounds and place in the freezer until very firm. Unmold the mousse onto a wire rack-lined sheet pan and coat with the chocolate glaze. Set aside in the refrigerator for two hours.

To serve: Place a slice of chocolate tart in the center of a plate and garnish with fleur de sel. Fill a shot glass with chocolate sauce and salty caramel ice cream. Place it next to the tart. Top the shot glass with whipped cream and chocolate shavings. Place a chocolate mousse cake on the plate and garnish with a chocolate stick. Drizzle the plate with caramel and chocolate sauces.

Bonyuls, Curde Leon Parce

Domoine de la Roctorio

Languedoc-Roussillon, France 1999

Clams Casino with Uni

(Serves 5)

HARUO-OHBU

ingredients

For the clams:
1/2 cup panko bread crumbs
1/2 tarragon sprig, stemmed
1 tablespoon sake
1 tablespoon soy sauce
Coarse salt, as needed
10 cherrystone clams, shucked and left on the half shell
5 ounces uni *

For the garnish:
Coarse salt, as needed Parsley sprigs

* Available through Brown Trading Company at [phone].

directions

For the clams: Preheat the oven to 500 degrees. In a food processor, combine the panko bread crumbs and tarragon leaves and pulse until combined. In a bowl, combine the sake with the soy sauce. Sprinkle the coarse salt over a sheet pan and arrange the clams on top. Divide the uni between the clams and sprinkle half of the panko mixture over them. Bake the clams for two minutes; remove and pour the sake mixture over the top. Return the clams to the oven for another two minutes. Remove the clams from the oven; sprinkle with the remaining panko mixture and finish in the oven for a final two minutes.

To serve: Place two small mounds of coarse salt on a plate with a clam on top of each mound. Garnish with a parsley sprig.

Yamohai Sake

Ippongi

Fukui Prefecture, Japan

Clear Soup with Tofu and Peas

(Serves 10)

Haruo Hbu

Ingredients


For the broth:
2 quarts water
3 x 3-inch sheet konbu
5 teaspoons bonito flakes
2 teaspoons sugar

For the dish:
8 ounces green peas, blanched
20 ounces tofu, cut into 10 2-ounce cubes
5 large shrimp, boiled and diced
3 ounces uni, diced *
3 shiitake mushrooms, blanched and decoratively cut

* Available through Brown Trading Company at [phone].

For the broth: In a medium saucepan, combine the water, konbu, and bonito flakes. Bring the mixture to a boil; stir in the sugar and remove from the heat. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside, keeping warm.

directions

To finish the dish: Pass the blanched peas through a tami into a bowl. Roll into 30 small balls and set aside. Make a square cut in the top of a tofu cube about half an inch from the edge on each side. Carefully hollow out the tofu cube about half an inch deep and place in a small soup bowl.

To serve: Fill the hollowed tofu with the shrimp, squid, uni, and shiitakes. Arrange three balls of pea paste over the top and carefully fill the bowl half way with the broth.

Kaori Junmai Ginjyo Sake

Snapper Sashimi and Grapefruit with Sour Dashi  Cocktail

(Serves 5)

HARUO HBU

ingredeients


For the sour dashi cocktail:
2 1/2 cups sake
3 medium pickled plums *
1 x 1-inch sheet konbu
1 teaspoon bonito flakes

For the sashimi:
5 slices pink grapefruit
1 1/2 pounds red snapper filet, thinly sliced
40 wolfberries *

For the garnish:
1 ounce fresh wasabi root, julienned

* Aailable in most Asian markets.

Yamaguchi Prefecture, Japan

directions

For the sour dashi cocktail: In a medium saucepan, combine the sake, pickled plums, konbu, and bonito flakes. Bring the mixture to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer. After ten minutes, remove the konbu and discard. Continue to simmer the mixture until reduced by half, about 25 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside to cool at room temperature.

For the sashimi: On a flat work surface, lay out the grapefruit slices. Place the slices of snapper over the grapefruit slices in a circular pattern. Top each grapefruit slice with eight wolfberries.

To serve: Lay a sheet of reflective plastic over a small plate. Place a grapefruit slice onto the plastic and garnish the top with the wasabi. Draw the top of the reflective plastic together; twist and skewer with a toothpick. Pour a serving of the sour dashi cocktail into a small glass and place next to the grapefruit.

Urakasuml Sake

Miyagi Prefecture, Japan

Red Snaper Soup with White Turnip Plum Blossoms

(Serves 5)

Haruo Hbu

ingredients


For the red snapper soup:
5 4-ounce red snapper filets
1/2 cup coarse salt
2 quarts water
3 x 3-inch sheet konbu
1 cup sake
10 small white turnips, peeled, carved into flower (plum blossom)
 shapes, and boiled until soft
1/4 cup grated ginger
2 teaspoons soy sauce
Salt to taste

For the garnish:
Scallions, thinly sliced.

directions

For the red snapper Soup: In a medium bowl, coat the snapper filets with coarse salt. Allow them to marinate for 15 minutes before removing the salt. In a stock pot, bring the water and konbu to a boil. As the water reaches a boil, remove the konbu and discard. Add the sake and snapper and allow the broth to simmer gently until reduced to approximately five cups, about one and one half hours. Add the turnip flowers and continue to simmer until heated through, about three minutes. Squeeze the juice from the grated ginger into the broth, discarding the pulp. Add the soy sauce and season the broth with salt. Set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Place a snapper filet in the bottom of a soup bowl and lay two turnip flowers next to it. Pour a serving of broth into the bowl. Garnish with sliced scallions.

Onikoroshi Sake

For the yuzu mousse cake: In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the cream cheese, lemon zest, vanilla, yuzu juice, and sugar. Mix until smooth and creamy. Place the gelatin in a microwave safe dish and mocrowave until melted, about 10 seconds. Add the gelatin to the cream cheese mixture and mix to combine. Fold in the whipped cream and transfer to a pastry beg fitted with a medium round tip. Line the inside of six 3-inch ring molds with acctate and place the reserved crusts at the bottom. Pipe the mousse into the prepared rings and place in the refrigerator until set, about two hours.

Wakatake

BlowFish Usurukuri with Monkfish Liver Dipping Sauce

(Serves 10)

HIROSHI NAKAHARA

ingredients



For the ponzu saucer

12 ounces soy sance
1/4 cup rice vinegar
1/4 cup dai dai citrus vinegar *
3 tablespoons mirin
1 1/4 teasponns yuzu peel **
1/8 cup bonito flakes, packed
1 x 1-inch sheet konbu

For the monkfish liver dipping sauce:

18 ounces monkfish liver ***
3 ounces dashi *****
1/8 cup mirin
1/8 cup soy sauce
4 1/2 ounces reserved ponzu sauce
4 1/2 ounces yuzu juice *
Salt to taste

For the blowfish skin:

5 blowfish, cleanced and fileted,
  outer and inner skin removed
  and reserved ****

For the dish:

Reserved blowfish filets
3/4 cup grated daikon
1/2 teaspoon chili powder
Scallions, sliced
* Available through Nishimoto Trading Company at [phone].

** Yuzu peel is from the Japanese yuzu citrus fruit, whcih is used
 mostly for the zest, and has a delicate citrus aroma. Available
 in most asian markets.

*** Available through True World Foods at [phone].

**** Blowfish can be purchased cleaned and frozen with the
 outer skin included separately, Available through Wako
 International at (212) 371 - 7555.

***** The recipe for dashi can be found on page 82.

Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan

directions

For the banana sorbet: place the bananas in the bowl of a food processor and puree until smooth. Add the simple syrup and lemon juice and blend to combine. Transfer to an ice cream machine and freeze according tothe manufacturer's instructions.

For the crust: Preheat hte oven to 350 degrees. Prepare six 3-inch ring molds with the softened butter and place on a parchment-lined sheet pan. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cobined the flour, sugar, and salt. Add the butter and mix on low speed until crumbly. Add the egg yolk and water and mix until just combined. Press the mixture into the prepared molds. Place in the oven and bake until golen brown. about 15 minutes. Remove from the head and set aside to cool.

For the yuzu and lemon curd: In a saucepan, bring the sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice, and yuzu juice to a simmer. Place the eggs in a bowl and pour the hot sugar mixture over the eggs, whisking constantly. Transfer the mixture to a saucepa and place over low heat, whisking constantly until thickened. Remove from the heat; add the gelatin and then add the butter, half at a time, whisking constantly, Strain through a fine mesh sieve and pour over the mousse cakes, Place in the regrigerator until set, about two hours.

For the blowfish skin. In a medium saucepan filled with boiling water blanch the blowfish outer skin until it begins to soften slightly. Remove the skin from the water; cool and slice into thin strips. In a separate saucepan filled with boiling water blanch the blowfish inner skin for about thirty seconds. Remove from the water cool and slice into thin strips. In a bowl combine the outer and inner skins.

To serve: Cut the blowfish on a bias into paper-thin slices. Arrange the blowfish slices ina decorative pattern on a plate, flipping the edge of each slice under itself to create a flower petal effect. Fill two small dipping sauce bowls with the monkfish liver and ponzu sauces. In a small bowl, combine the chili powder and grate daikon. Place the bowls of sauce on a separate small plate and garnish with mounds of the blowfish skin, chilidaikon mixture, and scallions.

Minawoman Sake

Uni Chawan Mushi with Sweet Wasabi Soy

(Serves 4)

LINDA RODRIGUEZ

ingredients


For the sweet wasabi soy:
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons mirin
3 1/2 ounches dashi *
2 1/2 teaspoons granulated sugar
3/4 teaspoon wasabi
3/4 teaspoon cornstarch slurry

For the udon broth:
2 1/2 cups dashi *
2 teaspoons light soy sauce
1/2 teaspoon mirin

For the chawan mushi:
4 eggs
2 1/2 ounches uni **
2 1/2 cups reserved udon broth
salt and white pepper to taste

For the garnish:
4 pieces uni
Osetra caviar **
Chervil sprigs
Scallions, finely sliced

* The recipe for dashi can be found on page 82.

** Available through Brown Trading Company at (207) 766 - 2402.

Fukushima Prefecture, Japan

For the sweet wasabi soy: In a medium saucepan, combine the soy sauce, mirin, dashi, sugar, and wasabi. Stir to dissolve the wasabi. Bring to a boil and slowly whisk in the cornstarch slurry, a little at a time. Cook until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the udon broth: In a medium saucepan, combine the dashi, soy sauce, and mirin. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook for one minute. Remove from the heat and set aside, keeping warm.

For the chawan mushi: In a large mixing bowl, beat the eggs. Add the uni and combine thoroughly. Whisk the udon broth into the uni mixture. Strain the liquid and pass the uni mixture through a fine mesh sieve into a bowl. Adjust the seasoning. Arrange four ceramic bowls in a steamer insert. Evenly distribute the egg mixture in six-ounce portions between the bowls. Place the steamer insert over a pot of boiling water; cover and steam for 12 minutes.

To serve: Arrange a bowl of chawan mushi on a plate and spoon a portion of the sweet wasabi soy over the top. Place a piece of uni and a small scoop of caviar in the center of the chawan mushi. Garnish the top with a chervil spring and place a small mound of scallions next to the bowl.

Genshu Jumai Glaya Sake

Narutalat

Prefecture, Japan

Pan-Seared Codfish Soft Roe

(Serves 10)

LINDA RODRIGUEZ

ingredients


For the sake:
1/2 pound codfish soft roe
1 quart sake
Sall to taste

For the codfish soft roe:
20 ounce codfish soft roe washed in cold salted
   water patted dry and out into 1 ounce pieces
1 cup all purpose flour
5 tablespoons olive oil
5 tablespoons soy sauce

For the garnish:
Sansho pepper powder

* Codfish soft roe is also referred to as codfish sperm. Available
through true World Book at [phone].

Note: Any true domestit sake may be used for this recipe.

For the sake: In a small bowl soak the codfish soft roe in salted cold water for 30 minutes. Drain the liquid and pass the codfish soft roe through a fine mesh sieve into a bowl. Add the sake to the codfish soft roe and mix to combire. In a small bowl over a medium pot of boiling water beat the sake mixture to 100 degrees.

For the codfish soft roe: in a small bowl, dredge the pieces of codfish soft roe with flour in a saute pan beat the olive oil. Add the codfish soft roe pieces and sear until golden brown on both sides. Degiaze with the soy sauce and remove from the heat.

To serve: Place two codfish soft roe pieces on a rectangular plate. Sprinkle the plate with sansho pepper powder. Pour a serving of the sake mixture into a martini glass and place next to the codfish soft roe.

Sun-Dried Tomato and Avocado Roll with Garlic Ponzu Sauce

(Services 10)

HIROSHI NAKAHARA

ingredients


For the sushi vinegar:
3 ounces rice vinegar
1/4 cup red rice vinegar
1/4 cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons salt
1/2 inch sheet konbu
For the garlio ponzu sauce:
1 1/4 ounces soy sauce
3/4 ounce rice vinegar
1/4 ounce dai dai citrus vinegar
1/4 ounce mirin
Yuzu peel, to taste"
1 teaspoon bonito flakes, packed
1/2-inch sheet konbu
1 cup vegetable oil
1/4 cup unpeeled and slieed garlic
1/4 cup unpeeled and sliced ginger
1/2 bunch scallions, chopped

To assemble the roll:
5 cups cooked sushiu rice
7 tablespoons reserved sushi vinegar
10 sheets non
1/4 cup sesame seeds
4 ounces sun-dried tomatoes,
 softened in cold water
1 avocado, peeled, pitted, and
sliced into strips

For the garnish:
Sea salt as needed
Green tea powder as needed

* Available through Nishimoto Trading Company at [phone].

** Yuzu peel is fromt the Japanese yuzu citrus fruit, which is used
mostly for the zest, and has a delicate citrus aroma. Available in most
Asian markets.

For the sushi vinegar: In a small bowl, combine the rice vinegar, red rice vinegar, stigar, salt and konbu. Place in the retrigerator for 24 hours.

For the garlie ponzu sauce: In a medium bowl, combine the soy sauce, rice vinegar citrps vinegar, mirin, yuzu peel, bonito flakes, and konbu. Mix well and place in the refingerator for 24 hours. Strain through a fine mesh steve and set aside. In a medium saucepan., combine the vegetable oil, garthe, ginger, and seallions. Buing to 250 degrees and maintain temperature for two hours. Strain the oil and let cool. Combine the soy sauce mixture with the oil and transfer to a squeeze bottle.

To assemble the rolls in a wooden bowl, add the rice and sushi vinegar and mix to combine with a wooden spoon. Place a nori shet, shiny side down, on a flat work surface and spread with a layer of rice, leaving a one inch lip at the top Sprinkle the rice with the sesame seeds. Flip the nori sheet over so that the rice side is facing down. Arrange the sun-dried tomatoes and avocado in the middle of the nori sheet. Roll to enclose, making sure the rice is on the outside of the roll. Seal the edges with water and gently shape with a bamboo mat. Cut the roll into six equal pieces and square off the ends. Repeat with the remaining mgredients to make nine additional rolls.

To serve: In a small bowl, mix the sea salt with the green tea powder and sprinkle onto a round plate. Arrange a sun dried tomato and avocado roll in a straight line on a plate and drizzle with the garlic ponzu sauce.

Sauvignon Blage

Kelham Maclean

Napa Calitanata 2000

Pounded Rice-Crusted Goat Cheese Crab Cakes

(Serves 10)

LINDA RODRIGUEZ

ingredients

For the crab cakes:
2 ounces butter
3/4 ounce Chinese crab paste
2 1/2 ounce all-purpose flour
1 1/3 cups milk
1/3 cup heavy cream
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
7 ounces goat cheese, crumbled
18 ounces peeky-toe crabmeat, cleaned **
3/4 bunch chives, chopped
2 ounces lemon juice
1/3 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 1/4 teaspoons sesame oil
3/4 teaspoon paprika
1 1/4 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
4 eggs, beaten
3 cups pounded rice
Salt and pepper to taste

For the lemon carrot coulis:
4 large carrots, peeled and chopped
1 lemon, juiced
Salt, white pepper, and sugar to taste

For the garnish:
2 1/2 cups baby micro greens ***
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
Rice vermicelli, toasted
5 plum tomatoes, quartered
Salt and pepper to taste

* Available in Asian markets.

** Available through Brown Trading Company at [phone].

*** Available through The Chef's Garden at [phone].

For the crab cakes: In a saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter and stir in the crab paste. Add the flour slowly to form a roux and cook for about four minutes, stirring constantly. Ina separate saucepan, warm the milk, heavy cream, and nutmeg. Whisk the milk and cream mixture into the roux and cook for four minutes, stirring constantly with a rubber spatula. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and set aside, keeping warm. In a small bowl over a medium pot of boiling water, heat the goat cheese until softened. Combine the roux with the goat cheese, crabmeat, chives, lemon juice, cayenne pepper, sesame oil paprika, and Worcestershire cause. Adjust the seasonings. Form the mixture into thirty 1 1/2-ounce balls and arrange on a sheet pan. Place the crab balls in the freezer until hard, about one hour.

directions

For the lemon carrot coulis: In a medium saucepan, add the carrots with enough water to cover. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer until tender. Strain, reserving the carrots and water separately. Transfer the carrots to a food processor and puree until smooth, adding the reserved cooking water a little at a time until the carrots reach a thick, smooth consistency. Add the lemon juice and sugar to taste and season. Transfer the coulis to a squeeze bottle.

To finish the crab cakes: Preheat a fryer to 350 degrees. Remove the crab cake balls from the freezer. Place the flour, eggs, and pounded rice in three separate bowls. Dredge the crab cake balls in the flour, patting off any excess. Dip in the eggs and roll to coat well in the pounded rice. Place back in the freezer until firm, about 10 minutes. Fry the crab cakes until golden brown and drain on paper towels.

To Serve: Squeeze three pools of lemon carrot coulis onto a plate. Place three crab cakes on top of the coulis. In a small bowl, toss the micro greens with the vegetable oil, salt, and pepper. Place a mound of micro greens on top of the crab cakes. Squeeze some of the lemon carrot coulis onto the plate in a decorative pattern. Garnish the crab cakes with the toasted rice vermicelli. Garnish with the plum tomato wedges.

Beaujolais Villages

Cuvee Leyness Dalicieux

France, 2001

Soba Risotto with Lobster and Mani a Clams

(Serves 5)

LINDA RODRIGUEZ

ingredients


For the tarragon butter:
1 small shallot, finely chopped
1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar,
  reduced by half
1/2 pound unsalted butter, softened
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Pinch cayenne pepper
4 shiso leaves, finely chopped
Salt and pepper to taste

For the soba risotto:
2 ounces olive oil
2 shallots, peeled and chopped
1/2 cup sake
1 ounce unsalted butter, softened
1 cup soba seeds *
5 cups dashi **
2 shritake mushrooms, sliced
1 1/2 tablespoons truffle oil
1/2 bunch chives, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste

For the lobster and clams:
25 manila clams
3/4 cup dashi
Reserved tarragon butter
3 lobsters, boiled and shelled, tail.
  knuckle, and claw meat reserved
Salt and pepper to taste

To serve:
Chervil springs

* Avilable in Asian markets

** The recipe for dashi can be found on page 82.

direction

Chassagne-Montrochet Domaine Jean Pillot Burgundy France 1999

For the tarragon butter: In a saucepan, heat the shallot and tarragon vinegar Reduce until almost dry and set aside to cool. In a medium bow!, combine the softened butter, shallot and vinegar reduction, lemon juice, cayenne pepper, and shico. Mix well to combine: adjust the seasonings and place in the refrigerator.

For the soba risotto: In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil. Add the shallots and saute until translucent. Deglaze the pan with the sake. Add the butter and soba seeds and saute for three minutes. Add I cup of the dash and simmer stirring constantly until all of the liquid has been absorbed. Stir in the shritake mushrooms. Add the remaining dashi, two cups at a time, and continue to simmer until all of the liquid has been absorbed the mixture should be creamy but the rice still slightly him. Remove from the heat and add the truffle oil and chives. Season and set aside, keeping warm.

For the lobster and clams: In a saute pan over high heat, combine the clams and dashi. Bring to a simmer, cover the pan and steam until all of the shells are open. Adjust the heat to medium; add the tarragon butter and stir to emulsify. Add the lobster meat and adjust the seasonings.

To serve: Place a four ounce ring mold in the middle of a large plate. Spoon the risotto into the mold: pack down with a spoon and remove the mold. Place a half lobster tail on top of the risotto with a claw resting next to it. Arrange the clams and lobster knuckle meat around the risotto and pour the tarragon butter sauce around the plate. Garnish with dried bonito flakes and a chervil spring.

Chassagne-Montrachel

Domaine Jean Pillot

Hot Soba Soup with Duck and Matsutake Mushrooms

(Serves 5)

LINDA RODRIGUEZ

Ingredients


For the duck:
5 duck legs
2 pounds white miso paste
1 1/4 cups mirm
1 1/4 cups sake
2 quarts dashi *
Salt to taste

For the dish:
1 pound cooked soba noodles
4 matsutake mushrooms. sliced **
Reserved dashi
1 bunch scallions, finely sliced
1 bunch misuba, stemined and blanched **

* The recipe for dashi can be found on page 82

** Available through SOS Chefs of New York at [phone]

*** Mitsuba is a Japanese herb similar to parsley Available in Asian
markets

Burgundy France 1999

directions

For the ducks: Clean the duck egs and pat them dry. With a wooden skewer, poke several holes through the skin of the duck in a large bowl, combine the white miso paste, mirm, and sake. Transfer half of the miso mixture to a hotel pan and cover with a layer of cheesecloth Lay the duck legs, skin side up, over the top and cover them with another layer of cheesecloth. Spread the remaining miso mixture over the top: rap tightly with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for two days. Remove the duck legs. From the miso mixture and place them in a steamer insert. Place the steamer insert over a pot of boiling water cover and steam for 15 minutes. Remove the duck from the steamer and allow to cool. Preheat a deep fryer to 375 degrees. Fry and duck legs until golden brown. Drain on paper towels and allow to cool. In a large saucepan. Add the dashi and bring to a simmer. Add the duck legs and cook until tender about 35 minutes. Remove the duck from the dashi and reserve both separately. Set the dashi aside keepi ng warm Carefull, remove the bones from the duck keeping the meat as intact as possible. Skim the fat from the top of the dashi and season with salt.

To serve: Place a portion of soba noodles and mushrooms in the bottom of a soup bowl and pour the dashi over the top. Slice a duck leg and lay it on top of the soba noodle and mushrooms. Garnish with the scallions and misuba.

Trio of Blue Fin Tuna Sashimi

(Serves 4)

HIROSHI NAKAHARA

ingredients

For the Gorgonzola sashimi
7 ounce soy sauce
3 1/2 ounces read wine
3 1/2 ounces fish sauce
2 x 2 inch sheet konbu
9 tablespoons bonito flakes, paked
8 ounces blue fin tuna, cut into 4 2-ounce cubes
6 ounces Gorgonzola cheese

For the sweet soy marinated sashimi:
5 1/2 ounces soy sauce
4 ounces mirin
8 ounces blue fin tuna, cut into 4 2-ounces cubes

For the traditional sashimi
8 ounces blue fin tuna, cut into 4 2-ounces cubes

directions

For the Gorgonzola sashimi. In a medium saucepan; combine the sow sauce, red win fish sauce and konbu. Bring the mixture to a boil add the bonito flakes and remove from the heat. Stram through a fine mesh sieve and cool. Remove fourteen ounces of the soy sauce mixture and reserve separately. In a saucepan filled with boiling water blanch the tuna just enough to color the outside, about ten seconds in a small bowl, marinate the tuna in the soy sauce mixture for twenty minutes. In a food processor combine the Gorgorizola cheese with the reserved soy satice mixture and puree until smooth. Remove the tuna from the soy sauce marinade and place in a bowl with the Corgonzola mixture toss gently to coat. Place in the refrigerator to marinate for three hours.

For the sweet soy marinated sashimi: In a small below combing the say sauce and mirin. Add the tuna to the soy sauce mixture and toss gertly to coat. Place in the refrigerator to marinate for five minute. Remove the tuna from the marinade and set aside.

To serve Shee each of the three different sashim cubes in half crosswise Arrange from left to might dragonally on a square plate tow shees each of the Gorgonzola sashimi the sweet soy marinated sashimi and the traditional sashimi.

Pinat Noir

Damaine Lucien Jacob

Stir-Fried Scallops with Shiitake Mushrooms

(Serves 2)

HIRO SONE

Ingredients

For the stir-fry:
16 ried shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and decoratively cut
2 cups warm water
2 tablespoons peanut oil
1-inch piece gin peeled and minced
1 garlic clove, peeled and minced
1 tablespoon minced leek
1 tablespoon toban jan
8 sea scallops, cleaned and sliced transversely
5 heads baby bok choy, blanched and halved lengthwise
1 tablespoon cornstarch slurry
1 teaspoon sesame oil
Salt to taste

For the garnish:
Toasted sesame seeds

* Toban jan is chinese chili bean paste and is available in
Asian markets.

Burgundy France 1999

For the stir-fry: In a bowl, combine the shiitake mushrooms and the water. Set aside to soak for three hours. Strain through a fine mesh sieve, reserving the mushrooms and water separately. In a wok over high heat, heat the peanut oil. Add the ginger, garlic, and leek and fry until the garlic begins to brown. Remove from the heat; add the toban jan and stir. Place over high heat and add the scallops, shiitake mushrooms, and bok choy. Stir-fry for one minute. Add the reserved water; bring to a boil and season. Slowly add the cornstarch slurry; bring to a boil and add the sesame oil. Stir to combine and remove from the heat.

To serve: Arrange the bok choy in a rectangular shape on a plate. Arrange the mushrooms and scallops in two rows over the bok choy, alternating between mushrooms and scallops. Pour the sauce over the top and garnish with the sesame seeds.

Gewutztraminer

Domaine Zind-Humbrecht

Alsace, France 1998

Sake-Steamed Tai Snapper Head

(Serves 2)

HIRO SONE

ingredients

For the snapper head:
26 x 4-inch sheets konbu, dampened
3 cups sake
2 Tai snapper heads, cleaned and girls removed *
3/4 ounce gingerroot, peeled and julienned
6 scallions, cleaned
4 ounces enoki mushrooms, stemmed and tied
  into bundles with softened seaweed
4 okra
2 yuzu **
Salt to taste

* Tai snapper is also commonly known as sea bream.

** Yuzu is a Japanese citrus fruit and is used mostly for the zest,
which has a delicate citrus aroma. Available in most Asian markets.

For the snapper head: Prepare a hot steamer. In a bowl, combine the konbu and the sake and set aside to soften. Place the snapper head in a strainer. Bring a saucepan of water to a boil; remove from the heat and pour over the snapper head. Remove the small scales and rinse under running water. Remove the konbu from the sake and place on a heatproof serving dish, reserving the sake. Place the snapper heads on the konbu and pour the sake over the fish. Sprinkle with the ginger and season. Place in the steamer for 20 minutes. Add the scallions, enoki mushrooms, and okra. Steam for an additional six minutes. Season and add the yuzu.

To serve: Place a sheet of the konbu on a plate. Top with a snapper head and some of the julienned ginger. Arrange three scallions, a bundle of the enoki mushrooms, two okra, and a yuzu around the snapper head.

Hokusetsu Sake

Onigoroshi Prefecture, Japan

Tai Snapper Soup with Manila Clams

(Serves 4)

HIRO SONE

ingredients


For the soup:
Head and bones from a 2 pound Tai snapper *
6 cups water
1/2 leek, white part only, sliced
1 2/8-inch piece gingerroot, peeled and
 sliced into 1/8-inch thick pieces
1/2 cup sake
8 Manila clams, washed
4 large red radishes, decoratively cut
4 2-ounce Tai snapper filets
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Yuzu zest **
Red radish leaves

* Tai snapper is also commonly known as sea bream.

** Yuzu is a Japanese citrus fruit and is used mostly for the zest,
which has a delicate citrus aroma. Available in most Asian markets.

directions

For the soup: Place the Tai snapper head and bones in a strainer and pour boiling water over them. Trim the bones of any dark meat and blood. In a saucepan, combine the Tai snapper head, bones, and water. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and add the leek, ginger, and sake, and season with salt. Simmer for 30 minutes, skimming the surface as necessary. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve into a saucepan, discarding the solids. Add the clams and radishes. Bring to a simmer for four minutes; add the snapper filets and continue to simmer until all of the clam shells are open and the snapper is cooked through. Remove from the heat; season and set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Place two clams, one radish, and one snapper filet in a small soup bowl. Ladle a portion of soup into the bowl and garnish with the yuzu zest and red radish leaves.

Sauvignon Blanc

Duckhorn Vineyards

Napa, California 2000

Tai Snapper Sashimi

(Serves 4)

HIRO SONE

Ingredients


For the sashimi:
1 10-ounce Tai snapper filet *
1 6 x 4-inch sheet konbu, dampened
For the soy sauce:
1 cup soy sauce
1 cup bonito flakes

For the dish:
8 pandan leaves **
4 4 x 4-inch squares banana leaves, softened in cold water
1 cup julienned daikon
3 red radishes, sliced
2 lemons, thinly sliced
1 small cucumber, cut into four rounds and hollowed into cups
4 tablespoons grated wasabi
4 shiso leaves

* Tai snapper is also commonly known as sea bream.

** Pandan leaves are available in Asian markets.

For the sashimi: Place the snapper skin-side up on a perforated pan. Bring a saucepan of water to a boil. Remove from the heat and pour over the snapper. Shock in an ice bath. Place on a paper towel-lined sheet pan and pat dry. Wrap the snapper in the konbu; cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for three hours. Place on a cutting board and cut into 1/4-inch slices.

For the soy sauce: In a saucepan, bring the soy sauce to a boil. Add the bonito flakes; remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Strain through a fine mesh sieve, discarding the bonito flakes. Set aside.

To serve: Fill a small soup bowl with crushed ice. Place two pandan leaves over the top, crossing each other at the center. Lay a square of banana leaf over the center of the pandan leaves. Place a mound of daikon on the back edge of the banana leaf and lay three slices of red radish next to it. Rest the sashimi slices against it, alternating slices of sashimi with lemon slices. Fill a cucumber cup with wasabi and place it on the front of the banana leaf. Garnish with a shiso leaf and serve with the soy sauce.

Blana de Blancs

Schramsberg

Sonoma, California 1997

Beef Carpaccio with Thai Squid Salad

(Serves 4)

HIRO SONE

ingredients


For the squid salad:
2 tablespoons lime juice
2 teaspoons Asian fish sauce
2 teaspoons brown sugar
3/4 pound small squid tubes, sliced into
    rings, and tentacles, cleaned, and balanced
1 rib celery, peeled and julienned
1 small red onion, peeled and sliced
1 Japanese cucumber, sliced
1/2 garlic clove, peeled and minced
1/4 stalk lemongrass, minced
1/2 Thai chili, seeded and minced
8 mint leaves

For the dish:
1 pound strip steak, cleaned of all fat
  and sinew and sliced paper-thin.
1 kaffir lime leal ]ulienned Cilantro leaves
Cilantro leaves

directions

For the squid salad: In a small bowl, combine the lime juice, fish sauce, and brown sugar. Whisk thoroughly to combine. Add the squid, celery, red onion, cucumber, garlic, lemongrass, Thai chili, and mint leaves and toss to combine.

To serve: Arrange the beef slices in a circle in the middle of a round plate. Place a mound of squid salad in the middle of the beef slices. Sprinkle the kaffir lime leaf over the squid salad and garnish the plate with cilantro leaves.

Viognier

Bonterra Vineyards

Mendocina, California 2001

Jerusalem Artichoke and Oven-Dried Tomato Salad

(Serves 4)

Hiro Sone

ingredients

For the oven-dried tomatoest:
4 plum tomatoes, sliced lengthwist
Salt to taste

For the vinaigrettes:
2 tablespoons temon price
1 1/2 teasponns Drop mustard
1/2 cup extra strgin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the salad:
4 Jerusalem articliokes, peeled and sliced into 1/2 inch disks
2 cup mache
2 tablespoons grated Partnesan cheese
1/2 red onion peeled and sliced
4 golden cherry tomatoes halved

For the garnish
Shaven Parmesar cheese

directions

For the oven-dried tomatoes: Preheat the oven to 225 degrees On a sheet pan with a wire rack insert arrange the tomatoes seed sides up, and season with salt. Place in the oven and bake until sheriveled but still soft inside about three hours.

For the vinaigrettes in a small bowl combine the lemon juice and mustard. Add the olive oil in a thin, steady stream, whisking constantly until fully combined. Season adn set aside.

For the salad: in a large bowl combine the jerusalem arthobokes, mache, grated Parmesan cheese, red onion and cherry tomatoes. Add the vinaigrette and toss to combine

To serve: Arrange the salad on a plate and garnish with the Parmesan cheese shavings.

Pinot Gris

King Estate

Eugene, Oregon 1998