UPSCALE DINING LIGHTS UP CALABASAS.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

You can see it at night from the 101, its maze of pin-lights twinkling from its perch on Calabasas Road facing the freeway.

Borage, which replaced the Pelican's Retreat in Calabasas, is the first strongly visible major restaurant venture that could be termed ``upscale'' in the West San Fernando Valley since the Northridge Earthquake, though nearby Fins Creekside might object somewhat.

Yet it has been very careful in its menu planning, preferring a limited safe menu to anything that could be called creative, adventurous or imaginative.

With a slight continental approach, the Borage kitchen cooks a respectable rendition of rosemary flavored rack of lamb ($19.50) and handles a prime New York steak enhanced with roasted hazelnuts and gorgonzola cheese ($22.50) deftly enough.

It delivers its food on big, colorful plates with mixed patterns, and its vegetables accompanying the entrees are skillfully cooked crunchy baby carrots, thin asparagus spears and the like.

Borage's Chilean sea bass ($18) though, rates a notch higher. The grilled fish offers just the right flaky softness in each bite, and it's cleverly paired with wild mushrooms and roasted peppers, resulting in a harmonious chorus of textures and flavors.

However, there's one dish that's rather disappointing. Its menu description makes it sounds like it's a sort of chicken Wellington. But chicken breast in filo dough ($16) turns out to be more like a heap of warm chicken salad topped with a bunch of crisped filo dough leaves.

It's dramatic enough, almost startling, with its high-stacked dough crisps. But it would seem that underneath all the floss would be something better than what's there.

The seven remaining entree offerings consist of a veal chop, medallions of beef, swordfish, halibut, salmon and lobster.

Borage's staff seems to have the right intentions but has yet to reach the point where everything's taken care of efficiently at the recently opened restaurant.

For example, one diner asked if garlic mashed could be substituted for roasted potatoes. The waiter said, ``No problem.''

But it wasn't done, and the diner decided to go ahead and eat the dish as is because the waiter was busy elsewhere.

Another time, a man came by, either a manager or owner, and asked if everything was all right. Then, while in the middle of a conversation with a diner, he abruptly turned around and left without saying why.

The upset diner mentioned to the waiter what had happened. The waiter evidently passed the word on, resulting in that person finally coming by and offering a half-hearted apology.

No apologies however are needed for either the tasty melange of bok choy, snow peas, Napa cabbage, carrots and jicama salad ($5.50) or a roasted, chicken-stuffed pasilla chili ($7).

The roasted pepper with its deep, rich sauce plus touches of mozzarella, cilantro and fruity mango, was the hit dish at our table one night.

Also nicely arranged but not as memorable was the bibb lettuce salad ($6) with diced artichoke hearts, asparagus, tomato and a red pepper vinaigrette dressing.

Other starters include a Caesar salad, sauteed shrimp, steamed clams, shrimp cocktail and crab cake.

Borage has a stage in its main dining area where a band plays jazz later into the dinner hours, replacing a pianist.

A bar area sits a level higher and to the rear.

The clientele here of mainly well-dressed suburbanites appears ready and willing to welcome a full-service restaurant with live music, a full bar and prices that don't go through the ceiling.

You can't miss it. Just look south as you drive the 101 a bit west of the Parkway Calabasas offramp.

Borage, all aglow, sits beckoning.

THE FACTS

The restaurant: Borage.

Where: 24454 Calabasas Road, Calabasas.

When: Open for dinner only from 5 p.m. to midnight Wednesday through Sunday.

Recommended items: Roasted stuffed pasilla chili, Oriental salad, grilled Chilean sea bass with roasted pepper and wild mushroom compote, prime New York sirloin steak with roasted hazelnuts and gorgonzola, rack of lamb with rosemary.

How much: Starters from $4 to $9, pastas and entrees from $9.50 to $24, desserts $5 each.

Wine list: Fair beginning list. No great bargains. Corkage fee $10.

Reservations: Suggested. Call [phone].

Our rating: Three Stars for food; Two Stars for service; Two Stars for wine.