Turkish Delights.

My guidebook warned that the concept of vegetarianism mystifies Turkish chefs. A dish will be described as meatless when it has been cooked in [meat] stock and has lumps of lamb fat floating in it." And all of this information was listed in a section labeled "Vegetarian Woes." Nevertheless, I was undeterred from visiting Turkey, a country graced with some of the world's most spectacular architecture and a pivotal role in human history. After all, the concept of vegetarianism mystifies many chefs in the US, too. At least the Turks, who boast an overwhelmingly Muslim population, would be familiar with the concept of dietary restrictions and prohibitions.

The Turks' worship of vegetables is obvious throughout their cuisine. Even Turkish artwork reflects this respect: one of the most celebrated attractions of Konya, the Central Anatolian city also famous for its mystical Whirling Dervishes, is the massive stone portal of the Stone and Woodwork Museum, with its bas-relief of artichokes. Here was a vego-centricity I could work with!

TURKISH CUISINE

Food looms large in Turkish history and culture. The Janissaries, the elite Ottoman military corps, were originally organized in ranks corresponding to different cooking trades. To signify revolt against the sultan, the Janissaries would dramatically overturn their pilaf cauldrons, and the revolt would commence.

Much of Turkey's food is similar to the better-known cuisines of the Middle East and Greece: lots of lamb, yogurt, eggplant, chickpeas, olives, mint, and super-sweet pastry. The country straddles two continents, Europe and Asia, and a few climatic zones. When I visited in March, it was snowing. Turkey typically imports very little food, so the availability of produce follows the seasons: winter brings remarkable citrus fruits, and the summer has its luscious melons. Year round, Turkish cuisine is famous for its use of fresh ingredients, and even today, few prepackaged meals are sold.

Despite the ubiquity of vegetables, vegetarians should exercise caution in Turkey. My guidebook was not far afield in its advice. "Stick to the soups," one chef advised me, upon learning that I was a vejeteryan. He then recommended his "best soup" to me--unfortunately, it was the tripe soup. The soups, stews, and simmered dishes that are the backbones of Turkish cooking may be vegetarian, or may not. Dishes that taste more or less the same may be vegan, or they may have meat stock, eggs, or butter. The staple red lentil soup (mercimek corbasi), for example, is very often vegan, but it also may be prepared with egg yolks, butter, and chicken or meat broth. Butter is commonly used for sauteing or frying, but olive oil is also frequently used. When eating out, I found it difficult to predict how a given dish would be prepared, since neither the cost of the meal nor the type of restaurant yielded any consistent indicators. I therefore developed a dining-out phrase list that I depended on when I ate out (see page 20).

Turkish restaurants go by many names, each relating to the foods they serve or their style of dining. There are kebapci (kebab shops), kofteci (shops selling kofte, or Turkish-style meatballs), pideci (Turkish pizza places), bufe and lokanta (buffets and cafeterias), pastane (pastry shops), firin (bakeries), and restoran (high-end restaurants). As a woman traveling by herself, I was pleased to learn that many restaurants have a "family room" or "ladies' salon" called the aile salonu where only families or women may dine. (Remember that women traveling alone in Turkey, as in many Mediterranean countries, may attract more interest than they desire.) Old style coffeehouses, known as kahve, remain a male preserve. Despite the world renown of thick, syrupy Turkish coffee, it is tea, or cay, that is Turkey's most popular drink and social lubricant. Tea is served in almost every social and commercial encounter, generally from beautiful tulip-shaped glasses. In the spring and summer, the country abounds with tea gardens. Turks like to boast that outdoor cafe dining began here before making its way to Paris and Vienna hundreds of years ago, and indeed the country is filled with people eating at cafes, on their balconies and in the parks.

Turkish food is, for the most part, mildly seasoned, although the southeastern part of the country shows signs of Kurdish and Arab culinary influences and is famous for its spicier food. Most Turkish dishes call for a generous amount of oil. One reliably vegetarian method of cooking is the simmering of beans or vegetables in olive oil. Dishes cooked this way, called plakis, are tasty but may be too rich for some. The celebrated eggplant dish, imam biyaldi (literally, "the imam [Muslim cleric] fainted") presumably draws its name from the pleasurable swoon the delicious food caused. But according to one chef, the imam fainted when he learned just how much oil was used in preparing the dish.

The Turks also love to stuff food with other food. Stuffed food dishes include dolma, stuffed vegetables (and the nickname for Istanbul's overstuffed minibuses); borek, dough or noodle pastries stuffed with meat, cheese, or vegetables; and the football-shaped, ground meat patties called kibbeh, available throughout the Middle East, but known in Turkey as kofte. Most of these dishes are not vegetarian, though you may occasionally find a vegetarian kofte made from red lentils and bulgur. Turkish meals typically begin with meze, which is hors d'oeuvres- or tapas-like appetizers that can be easily made into a meal. Meze may include many vegetarian options, including olives or pickled vegetables (tursu), humus, fasulye pilaki, and other bean purees, patlican salatasi (an eggplant puree similar to baba ghanoush), tabbouleh, and salads. Although most main courses feature lamb or another meat, I occasionally found all-vegetable stews, bean dishes, or pasta (makarna). The rice or bulgur pilav (pilaf) that generally accompanies the main dish is often vegetarian as well.

Since I don't have much of a sweet tooth, the main appeal of the Turkish dessert menu is the fanciful names: Lady's Navel, Twisted Turban, Beloved's Lips, and so on. Most of the desserts follow the pastry-in-syrup baklava model and are made with cream or butter. One dessert, called tavukgogsu, is made with shredded chicken fibers. Eggplant, already ubiquitous on the savory side of the Turkish menu, is also often prepared as a sweet dessert. ("Order your water without eggplant," a Turkish waiter jokingly advised me about this omnipresent item.) Kabak tatlisi, stewed pumpkin; asure, a dessert made from nuts, beans, and dried fruit; zerde, a saffron rice dessert; and komposto, fruit compote, are among the sweet vegan dessert options. Fruit leathers and the sugary confection lokum (known as Turkish Delight in English) are vegan (though no treat for your tooth enamel). Fresh fruit, of course, is also a pleasant way to end a meal.

MARKETS & STREET FOOD

Food markets in most countries are a boon to the vegetarian traveler, and Turkey's markets are no exception. I can still remember the perfume of the muscat grapes I purchased at the open-air market near the Misir Carsisi (Egyptian Spice Bazaar) in Istanbul. Everyone I knew who had visited Turkey mentioned the Kapali Carsi (Grand Bazaar), home of thousands of small shops, as a must-see destination. But for people like me who like to eat, and don't eat the kebap for which Turkey is famous, it is a visit to the Misir Carsisi that is obligatory.

Istanbul's markets have been around for centuries and some are a convenient walk from world-renowned tourist attractions like the Blue Mosque and the nearly 1500-year-old Aya Sofya (Hagia Sofia). The Misir Carsisi has wonderful spices and teas for sale (some of which are prepackaged for easy import to the US) and all kinds of fresh produce. Kuru yemis shops sell many types of dried fruit--Turkey is especially known for its apricots and figs--and nuts for snacking. My favorite was leblebi, roasted and salted chickpeas. Halvah, known as helva in Turkish, is a very popular snack. Istanbul even has a sort of helva "minidistrict" where stores selling this grainy confection are clustered. Interestingly enough, helva is made from semolina and butter or cream, rather than the sesame seeds typically used in making halvah.

Street vendors, especially in the warmer months, sell tasty vegetables like boiled corn on the cob and pickles. Even pilav-selling vendors can be found. One of the tastiest dishes I ate in Turkey was a chickpea pilav I bought down the block from a hammam (steambath) that I visited in Istanbul's Aksaray area. The pilaf was served in a cone of paper and was steaming and fresh. Bread, another snacking pleasure, is readily available. I bought my ekmek (bread)--French style, whole wheat or regular--at bakeries, markets, and from street vendors. I especially liked the pide, Turkish pita bread, I bought from the street vendors.

One of my favorite meals-on-the-go was a baked potato. Patatas firin (baked potato shops, literally, "potato bakeries") sell huge, fluffy baked patatas with butter, mayonnaise, and many different kinds of toppings, mostly of the muttony persuasion. I ordered mine sade (plain). The baked potato vendors took tremendous glee in my many return visits, wishing me an "Afiyet olsun!" (Bon appetit!) each time, and finally asking me in very halting English, "Yes, you are American, but maybe you are Turkish too?"

Such warmth was typical of the hospitality I encountered. Turkish chefs, both professional and home-based, take tremendous pride in their cooking and in their hospitality. If you plan to visit the country, don't hesitate to let people know of your dietary restrictions. Other than chance, it is your best way to get food you will eat. It will also enable you to experience Turkish food beyond the kebaps that are the cuisine's best-known item.

Afiyet olsun!

VEGETARIAN LENTIL KOFTE (MERCIMEKLI KOFTE) (Makes about 30 koftes--6 servings)

1 cup red lentils
3 cups water
Pinch of salt
1 1/2 Tablespoons tomato paste
1 teaspoon paprika
1/2 cup fine-grain bulgur, rinsed well
Oil spray
1 large onion, peeled and finely diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons cumin
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or more
    to taste
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/2 cup parsley, finely chopped
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
Salt and pepper to taste
Mint or parsley leaves for garnish

Pick over, rinse, and drain the lentils. Boil the lentils with the water and the pinch of salt. Reduce heat to low, skimming off any foam that develops, and simmer until lentils are tender (about 25 minutes). If necessary, add small amounts of cold water to prevent the lentils from scorching.

Add the tomato paste and paprika to the saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the bulgur and mix well. Bring the mixture to a boil for 1-2 minutes, adding small amounts of water if necessary. Remove from the stove. Stir the lentil-bulgur mixture well and allow it to rest until all liquids have been absorbed.

Saute the onion in a frying pan until it is soft and caramelized. Add the garlic and cumin, and saute for a few more minutes. Add the onion mixture to the lentil-bulgur mixture and mix well. Add the cayenne, black pepper, parsley, and lemon juice and knead the mixture into a paste. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Take heaping tablespoons of the lentil-bulgur mixture and with wet hands shape them into small football-shaped ovals. Arrange attractively on a platter, and garnish with herb leaves. Serve cold or at room temperature with salad, cacik and pita.

Total calories per serving: 159    Fat: 1 gram
Carbohydrates: 31 grams            Protein: 10 grams
Sodium: 21 milligrams              Fiber: 8 grams

LEMON BEANS (FASULYE PILAKI) (Serves 6-8)

1 pound dried beans, such as pinto, pink,
  or cranberry beans
12 cups cold water (separate into 8 and 4)
2 teaspoons salt
Oil spray
2 large onions, chopped
2 large carrots, diced
1/3 cup tomato paste
1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 medium potato
1/3 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice, or
  more to taste
Salt and pepper to taste
1/4 cup chopped parsley (garnish)
Lemon slices or wedges (garnish)

Pick over the beans to remove debris and foreign material. Rinse well and drain. Combine the beans with 8 cups of the cold water and 2 teaspoons of salt in a Dutch oven or other large covered pot. Boil the beans for 2 minutes. Remove the pot from heat and let it stand covered for one hour. Drain the beans well and return them to the pot.

Coat a pan with oil spray and saute the onions until soft, but not yet fully caramelized. Add the onions, carrots, tomato paste, cayenne, black pepper, and remaining 4 cups of water to the bean pot. Bring the bean mixture to a boil, cover, reduce heat to a low simmer, and cook for 30 minutes.

Peel and dice the potato. Add the diced potato to the bean mixture and cook an additional 30 minutes or until most of the liquid has been absorbed and the beans and potatoes are tender.

Let cool, stir in lemon juice and season with salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with parsley and lemon slices and serve at room temperature.

Total calories per serving: 320    Fat: 1 gram
Carbohydrates: 63 grams            Protein: 18 grams
Sodium: 35 milligrams              Fiber: 22 grams
High in iron

SHEPHERD'S SALAD (COBAN SALATASI) (Serves 6)

Many salatasi (salads) in Turkey are made with eggs, mayonnaise, or other non-vegan ingredients. Shepherd) Salad is the most popular (vegan) garden salad in the country, one that you're likely to find on most menus.

3 large tomatoes, diced
3 cucumbers, peeled and diced
2 green peppers, diced
1 mild onion, peeled and diced
3 or 4 scallions, minced (green and white
  parts)
1 hot chili pepper, minced, or more to taste
1 cup coarsely chopped parsley
Lemon wedges or lemon-olive oil dressing
Salt to taste

Combine all the vegetables in a large salad bowl. Serve with lemon wedges or a dressing made from freshly squeezed lemon juice and olive oil in 1:1 ratio. Salt to taste.

Total calories per serving: 64     Fat: 1 gram
Carbohydrates: 14 grams            Protein: 3 grams
Sodium: 19 milligrams              Fiber: 4 grams

CUCUMBER-YOGURT SAUCE (CACIK) (Serves 6)

This sauce, pronounced jah-juk, is similar to the dish known as tzatzki in Greece and khiyar bi lben in the Middle East. It goes well with kofte, stews, and vegetables, or can be served as a dip with pita bread or crudite.

2 cups plain soy yogurt
2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
Pinch of salt
1 long, English (seedless) cucumber, peeled
  and finely diced
3 teaspoons dried mint, crushed to a fine
  powder
Salt and pepper to taste
Sprigs of fresh mint or dill (garnish)

Combine the yogurt, garlic, and the pinch of salt in a bowl. Add the cucumber and dried mint and blend well, flavoring with the salt and pepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, at least an hour.

Garnish with mint and serve.

Total calories per serving: 72     Fat: 4 grams
Carbohydrates: 5 grams             Protein: 5 grams
Sodium: 10 milligrams              Fiber: 1 gram

RED LENTIL SOUP (MERCIMEK CORBASI) (Serves 6-8)

2 cups red lentils
1/4 cup basmati rice
Oil spray
1 cup finely diced onions
1/2 tomato, peeled and finely diced
2 Tablespoons tomato paste
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
9 cups vegetarian stock or water
Salt and pepper to taste
Mint leaves (garnish)

Place the lentils and rice in a sieve. Pick them over, discarding any debris. Rinse the lentils and rice until the water runs clear. Drain well.

Meanwhile, spray a large saucepan or Dutch oven with oil spray. Saute the onions until they are soft. Add the tomato, tomato paste, and cayenne pepper, stirring thoroughly. Add the lentils and rice. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover the pan, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the rice is cooked and the lentils have achieved the consistency of a puree (about half an hour).

Remove from heat and adjust seasonings to taste. Serve individual portions garnished with mint leaves.

Total calories per serving: 264    Fat: 1 gram
Carbohydrates: 48 grams            Protein: 17 grams
Sodium: 437 milligrams             Fiber: 11 grams

RICE PILAF WITH CHICKPEAS (PIRINC PILAVI NOHUTLU) (Serves 6)

1 1/2 cups basmati rice
Oil spray
3 large onions, chopped
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cumin
3 cups vegetable stock or water
1 cup cooked chickpeas or canned chickpeas,
  rinsed and drained
1/2 cup finely chopped parsley
2 Tablespoons chopped dill
Salt and pepper to taste

Rinse the rice in water until the water runs clear. Soak the rice in hot water for approximately half an hour and drain.

After the rice has soaked for about 20 minutes, spray a heavy pot or large skillet with an oil spray and saute the onions until soft and caramelized, adding small amounts of water if necessary to prevent sticking. Add the rice, salt, and cumin to the pan and cook, stirring occasionally, for an additional 3 minutes. Add the stock or water and bring to a boil.

Reduce heat to a simmer, add the chickpeas, cover the pan, and cook until the stock has been absorbed (about 25 minutes).

Remove from heat, add parsley and dill, and salt and pepper to taste. Cover and let stand for 5 minutes before serving.

Total calories per serving: 243    Fat: 3 grams
Carbohydrates: 50 grams            Protein: 7 grams
234 milligrams                     Fiber: 6 grams

ROASTED EGGPLANT, TOMATO, AND PEPPER SALAD (KOZLENMIS SEBZE) (Serves 6)

This salad is similar to platican salatasi and many other eggplant dishes. Serve warm or at room temperature as part of meze.

Juice of 2 lemons, divided into 2 portions
1 cup water
Pinch of salt
Oil spray
3 ripe tomatoes, quartered
2 red bell peppers, quartered and seeded
1 small chili pepper
2 medium eggplants
1 small mild onion, finely diced
Salt and pepper to taste
1/4 cup chopped parsley

In a medium sized bowl, mix half of the lemon juice and all of the water. Add a pinch of salt.

Heat oven to 400 degrees. On cookie sheets or oven trays coated with oil spray, broil the tomatoes and peppers (including the chili pepper) until their skins blacken and blister, about 25 minutes or longer if necessary. Remove the vegetables from the oven. Peel the red peppers (allowing them to sweat, if necessary, in a plastic bag first), and peel and seed the tomatoes and chili pepper. Press the tomatoes firmly to remove excess liquid. Dice the tomatoes and red peppers into small chunks. Mince the chili pepper.

Meanwhile, roast the eggplant. Wrap each eggplant tightly in a few layers of aluminum foil and roast over the open flame of a stove burner, turning frequently, until each eggplant has completely collapsed (about 15-20 minutes). Dip the foil packages in a basin of cold water and remove the foil slowly. Peel the skin from the eggplants, place the eggplant flesh in the lemon juice/ water mixture, and let it stand for 20 minutes. Drain the eggplants and squeeze them thoroughly to expel as much liquid as possible.

In a wide bowl, mash the eggplant. Add the onion, peppers, tomatoes, remaining lemon juice, and parsley and mix thoroughly. Cover and let stand for 1 hour.

Adjust seasonings to taste and mix gently. Serve at room temperature or slightly heated.

Total calories per serving: 59     Fat: <1 gram
Carbohydrates: 14 grams            Protein: 2 grams
Sodium: 10 milligrams              Fiber: 4 grams

RELATED ARTICLE: TALKING TURKEY

Ben vejeteryan.                       I am a vegetarian.
(behn vej-eh-ter-ee-an)

Hic et yemiyorum.                     I never eat meat.
(heech eht yeh-mee-yoh-room)

Et suyu bile yemiyorim.               I don't even eat
(eht soo-yoo bee-lah                  meat stock.
yeh-mee-yoh-room)

Etsiz yemek var mi?                   Do you have any
(eht-seez yeh-mehk vahr muh)          meatless dishes?

Sut ve sut mamulleri yemiyorum.       I eat neither milk
(soot veh soot mahm-oohl-lyeh-ree     nor milk products.
yeh-mee-yoh-room)

Yumurta (yo-moor-tah) yemiyorum.      I don't eat eggs.

Tereyagi (the-reh-yuh) yemiyorum.     I don't eat butter.

Balik (bah-luhk) yemiyorum.           I don't eat fish.

Pilic (pee-leech) yemiyorum.          I don't eat chicken.

Sigir eti (suh-uhr eht-tee)           I don't eat beef.
yemiyorum.

Peynir (pey-neer) yemiyorum.          I don't eat cheese.

Yalniz meyve ve sebze yiyorum.        I eat only fruit
(yal-nihz meh-veh                     and vegetables.
veh seb-zeh yi-yoh-room)

Istiyorum ...                         I'd like ...
(ees-tee-yoh-room)

Sade (sah-deh)                        Plain (no toppings
                                      or additives;
                                      black coffee is kahve sade)

Afiyet olsun!                         Bon appetit!
(ah-fih-yet ohl-soon)