Travel advisory for the new South Africa.

SOUTH AFRICA'S MOTTO, "A WORLD IN ONE COUNTRY," IS Particularly apt. Its landscape, often breathtaking, abounds in variety--from rugged mountains to severe plains, from sprawling metropolises filled with diamond-shaped skyscrapers to dilapidated shantytowns, from rolling flowered hills to vast protected game reserves, with lions, tigers, cheetahs and elephants.

Its culture is even more of a mix. It is black and white, Zulu and Afrikaaner, Islamic and Dutch Reformist, rich and poor. It's a first world country with "all the amenities and infrastructure that we are accustomed to in the United States," notes Selma Edwards, CEO and president of the New York-based E-Z Tours.

But that's hardly the whole story. "Within that environment, you have black people who live in a third-world environment. They live in poverty, lack housing, opportunity, skills and education," notes Edwards, who began taking African-American tourists to South Africa last year. "There are, however, a few blacks who have made it to the first world," she says.

Post-apartheid South Africa is now returning to the ranks of the major travel destinations. Hailed as the land of opportunity for entrepreneurs and globally-minded businesses, the country is putting out the welcome mat for travelers.

According to the South African Tourist Board, SATOUR, the number of U.S. visitors to the country dropped from 70,500 to 37,000 between 1984 and 1986. But the visitor traffic surged forward in 1991 after South Africa abandoned apartheid and the U.S. government restored landing rights to the national carrier, South African Airways. In 1993, 62,430 Americans traveled to South Africa, and the momentum continues to build.

Many of these visitors will be African-Americans who want to see the land Nelson Mandela calls home, and where thousands more fought and died for freedom. Meanwhile, the new president hopes to bridge the economic and cultural gap among South Africans by attracting foreign investment through business and tourism.

TOURING THE "NEW" SOUTH AFRICA

Before apartheid was abolished, South Africa's tourist industry catered almost exclusively to wealthy whites. They flocked to the country's luxury resorts, toured the treasured wine country, gambled at spectacular Sun City casinos or visited the $1 billion Palace Hotel with its $1,500-a-night suites and man-made beach complete with rumbling waves.

Seeing what life was like for black South Africans was not a priority. But now all that has changed. Black South African tour operators, as well as African-American consultants and tour operators, are designing tours that include excursions into the world of the black South Africans (see sidebar).

For example, African-American tour operator Gaynell Henderson-Bailey, of the Washington-based Henderson Travel Service, takes groups to visit the townships to see where blacks live and work. They visit the villages where the Zulus and the Ndebeles, who are known for their intricate beadwork, live. They also visit the places where locals eat and relax, as well as sites where Nelson Mandela and others lived during their early struggles against apartheid.

Management consultant Richard Orange of New York has made two trips to South Africa. A diversity specialist whose client list includes AT&T and DuPont, Orange brought 40 business executives and managers, educators and tourists to South Africa in April.

"South Africa is the greatest laboratory on the planet to look at and experience issues of diversity," says Orange, who has traveled throughout Africa over the past 20 years. "My goal was to expose business leaders to South Africa so they could witness first-hand the possibilities of what can happen there economically for them as well as for South Africans."

Orange is optimistic about the "new" South Africa. "In the business world, I see pockets of cooperation between blacks and whites. They are working toward a better tomorrow, a better future. They understand that they don't have a future if they don't work together and work things out," he observes.

GETTING READY

A little preparation can go a long way in making your trip to South Africa a journey you'll never forget. For leisure travelers, visas are no longer needed, but you will need a current passport. Business travelers who intend to stay for a prolonged period will need a work permit. You can obtain one through the South African embassy in Washington (202-966-1650) or its consulates in New York, Chicago and Los Angeles. Ask for the visa office. Be forewarned: The application is processed in South Africa, so you will need to apply three to four weeks before your departure.

For those coming from the United States and most other countries, with the exception of the ye low fever zone (central Africa and most of South America), vaccinations are not necessary. However, as a precaution against malaria, get a prescription for antimalaria pills. Visitors to the Eastern Transvaal Lowveld and Northern Natal provinces should take the pills before, during and after their stay. The pills should be taken a minimum of 24 hours before entering one of these areas. In addition, you should not swim in rivers and lakes in the eastern and northern regions of South Africa since dangerous parasites may be present in the water.

Since South Africa lies south of the equator, seasons are the opposite of those in the Northern Hemisphere. Temperatures range from 59[degrees]F to 90[degrees]F, but vary according to the area of the country.

In general, bring clothing that is suitable for a warm climate. But pack a sweater or jacket since nights can be cool, especially in the winter. In the game parks or on tour, dress is casual and comfortable. If you're going on a safari, wear muted colors. If you're traveling on business, dress as you would back home. If traveling for pleasure, you should also pack a nice dress or a suit and tie, since some restaurants require them.

Accessories to bring include: sunglasses, sun hat or visor, sunscreen, binoculars and a small flashlight, which could come in handy if you go on a nighttime safari. Purchase your photographic equipment, film and batteries here in the United States. These items are very expensive in South Africa.

Most South African businesses accept major American and international credit cards. Cash and traveler's checks are also accepted and can easily be converted to the rand either at the airport banks or at your hotel. The exchange rate fluctuates, but generally you'll get 3.5 or 3.6 rand for one U.S. dollar. Rates are usually better at the banks than at hotels. Tour officials generally recommend that you use your credit cards whenever possible, since the charges are calculated on the bank rate, which is generally the better conversion rate.

WHERE TO STAY AND PLAY

South Africa has a broad range of accommodations that are strictly rated according to the star system, from one to five stars. Most tour operators book tourists in four-and five-star hotels, which can be very expensive, but other accommodations are much cheaper. The South African Tourism Board has published The National Accommodation Guide, which lists hotel accommodations according to grade and classification. To obtain a copy, contact SATOUR at 800-822-5368.

South Africa has a modern and effective telephone system. A direct dialing service connects all local centers, except in the most remote rural areas. The international telephone service links South Africa with more than 171 countries around the world. Major hotels and businesses have telex and fax services.

But making telephone calls from South Africa can be very expensive. If you need to call home while in South Africa, make the call and ask the other person to phone you right back. A call to South Africa from the United States is much cheaper than one made from South Africa to the States.

If you want to call the United States, most major calling cards can be used. Telephone directories will list all international calling codes. The country code for South Africa is 011-27. When dialing a South African city from the United States, the zero in front of a city exchange should be dropped. For example, to call Johannesburg, you would dial 011 (international code), then 27 (country code), 11 (the local exchange for the city), plus the number. In Cape Town, the local exchange is 21.

The country has a value-added tax, or VAT. Foreign tourists qualify for a refund on VAT, which is paid on items purchased. This does not apply to goods consumed or services rendered. To claim a refund, you'll need an original tax invoice showing the seller's name, address, VAT registration number, invoice number and the name and complete postal address of the purchaser. You'll also need a complete description of the item purchased, its cost in rands with the VAT listed separately; or the cost, including VAT, with a statement saying the price includes VAT. There are VAT refund offices at all international airports and harbors. (Note: To get your refund, you must carry the items onboard with you; don't check them with your bags.)

When it's time to play, there's plenty to do in South Africa. Besides safaris and game parks, gambling and water sports, there are many places to buy arts and crafts and plenty of good restaurants.

Wallace Ford II, a New York attorney, recommends Mandle's in Dube, Soweto, just outside Johannesburg. "It's like any black neighborhood restaurant in the States. They love to see African-Americans in there, and you can meet other black South Africans." Ford suggests trying a corn meal dish called "Pap," which is like grits, accompanied by broiled or grilled chicken and a Vivo beer, which is brewed by black South Africans.

Outside Soweto and Johannesburg, you'll find the middle-class black enclave of Rosebank, where black and white South Africans and many African-Americans live. Several great restaurants and nightclubs are located there, says Ford. Melville is another Johannesburg suburb featuring jazz clubs with both black and white musicians.

TRAVEL PRECAUTIONS

As in most busy urban centers, criminals prey on tourists--especially in Johannesburg, the country's largest city. "We tell people that just as they would be careful if they were flying into Washington or New York, they must also be careful while in South Africa," warns Henderson-Bailey.

Travel professionals also advise you to leave most of your money and your return travel tickets in a hotel safe deposit box. They also suggest you make a copy of the first page of your passport and other travel papers and keep them in a safe as well. It's also wise to travel in groups, particularly at night.

Now that apartheid is officially over, you would expect that many white South Africans would resent the presence of African-Americans and be rude to them. But most African-Americans report few if any such incidents. "We experienced nothing overt," says tour operator Selma Edwards. "There was a natural curiosity on the part of white South Africans because they are not used to seeing African-Americans. A couple of times we saw looks that obviously weren't just curious," she remembers. White South Africans, she says, were more interested in showing that they were not as racist as they are portrayed in the media. Indeed, many went out of their way to be helpful.

Diversity consultant Richard Orange agrees. "I was in South Africa four years ago at the height of apartheid, and I could feel the tension," he recalls. "Today, so much of that tension has dissipated. There is an air of hope and enthusiasm."

If a few white South Africans sneer at African-American visitors, the overwhelming majority of black South Africans shower them with love and admiration. "They were really happy to see us, especially in the townships," says Edwards. "There is so much optimism, and they seem to link African-Americans and what happened to them with the end of apartheid. They know we helped bring an end to that system, so they arc very thankful."

"Any non-South African who wants to conduct business there must realize that it is done through relationships," explains Orange. We can't go under the assumption that we have something to give these people; we have to learn what they need from us. South Africans are very bright and talented, with a vision about where they want to go and what they want to do. We must respect that."

RELATED ARTICLE: AMERICAN & SOUTH AFRICAN TOUR COMPANIES

The following is a list of African-American and South African tour operators with packages designed to appeal to African-Americans:

* E-Z Tours, 1650 Broadway, Suite 608, New York, NY 10019; 212-246-2116 or 800-348-7200. These 10-to 14-day tours generally include stops in Johannesburg, Durban, Sun City and Cape Town. The Zulu, Xhosa and Ndebele cultures are highlighted. There are optional game park safaris, ranging in price from $2,000 to $3,000.

* Henderson Travel Service, Railway Express Building, Lower Leval, Suite 7, 900 Second St. NE, Washington, DC 20002, 202-789-1211. Henderson, in a joint venture with a South African company, is offering the "Road to Freedom," package. The tour covers major cities and townships, and stops at Nelson Mandela's birthplace as well as the workplaces, churches and homes of other ANC members. Some proceeds from the tour will go to women's organization in their fight against poverty and disease in South Africa. Tours run from 10 to 14 days; prices begin at $3,500.

* KwaMashu Tours (011-27-31-561-5322; or fax, 011-27-31-561-3479) visits the Durban Township of KwaMashu. A wide range of sites--from the mansions of the rich to the squatter shantytowns--are included. The tour is led by director Nelson Zondi, the first black incoming tour operator in Natal.

* One City Tours (011-27-21-387-5351; of fax, 011-27-21-387-1338) offers programs emphasizing Cape Town's efforts to meld many diverse communities. You can stop in the heart of the old section of town, the squatter camps of Crossroads, Langa, Bonthcheuwel and Khyelitsha, Signal Hill, the waterfront district and the Rhodes Memorial.

* Sakabula Safaris & Tours (telephone/fax, 011-27-12-981-585), based in Pretoria, offers a "Cross Cultural Experience," with full-day excursions to the Escom Ethnic Village, then on to Botshabelo.

* The South African Taverners Association (c/o Dave Moshapalo, 011-27-11-832-1191) offers a tour for music lovers. You can mix with the locals and listen to jazz in the shebeens, the once-illegal taverns. You also have the option of spending a night in one of the shanties in nearby townships, including Soweto, Kathehong, and Tembisa.

* Heart Stoppers (011-27-21-75-9900) offers a program for jazz enthusiasts visiting Cape Town. Tours of several clubs are offered on Wednesday through Sunday evenings.

* Jimmy's Face-To-Face Tours (011-27-11-331-6109 or -6209; or fax, 011-27-11-331-5388) has been providing tours of Soweto for more than a decade. A staff of experienced guides will show you Johannesburg, Pretoria, Sun City and the game reserves.