Trannies play the field.

Decked out n Diesel shoes and clingy hot pink shirts, Thailand's "ladyboys" grab their mallets, clamber on the backs of their animals, and ready themselves for a ferocious game of polo. But this isn't some traditional tea-sipping horse match. This is pachyderm polo a surprisingly fast-paced pastime played with multiton elephants.

Calling themselves the Screwless Tuskers, these belly-baring transsexuals will swing their sticks through the King's Cup tournament, a jumbo elephant fundraising effort organized every year by the Anantara Resort (011-66-0-3252-0250) in Hua Hin. Heavyweights like Mercedes and Chivas Regal sponsor teams, and some players boast professional horse polo experience. But the Tuskers are amateurs at swinging sticks--at east those of the 79-inch-long variety--and have to worry about their falsies falling out (an instance for which play is halted) and their hair getting messy (for which it's not). They do get to play by female rules, however, like using both hands to grip the mallet.

Still, in 2003 testosterone triumphed over trendy. The Tuskers finished in last place. Nevertheless, at this year's tournament (September 7-2), they'll be back chasing the coveted title.