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The Scots discovered the virtues of oats early on.

Not for nothing are Scots called canny. For openers, they discovered the virtues of oats as human health food a long time before the rest of us. More than two centuries ago, Dr. Samuel Johnson described oats in his famous dictionary as a grain eaten by horses in England and by men in Scotland. Loyal Scot James Boswell, his biographer, was quick to inform Johnson that such a diet was responsible for the fine horses of England and the fine men of Scotland.

Medical research has finally caught up with Boswell, and oats are experiencing a renaissance in our diets. Fortunately, We don't have to eat oats merely out of duty to our vascular and digestive systems; their flavor and texture are substantial, and in Robert House's waffles they truly justify those much-abused terms "nutty" and "crunchy."

Oat Bran-Buttermilk Waffles

1 cup oat bran

1 cup whole-wheat flour

1/2 teaspoon each baking powder and

baking soda

1 large egg

1/4 cup salad oil, or melted and cooled

butter or margarine

1 cup buttermilk

1 cup milk

Butter or margarine

Syrup

In a bowl, stir together oat bran, flour, baking powder, and soda. In another

bowl, beat egg and oil to blend with buttermilk and milk; add liquids to dry ingredients and stir until evenly moistened.

In an oiled waffle iron heated to medium-high, add enough batter to fill about half full. Cover and bake until waffle no longer steams and is crisp and golden, 4 to 5 minutes. Lift out waffle and season to taste with butter and syrup. Repeat to bake remaining waffles. Makes 3 waffles, each 9 inches square.

Per waffle: 511 cal.; 18 g protein; 26 g fat,- 53 g carbo.; 358 mg sodium; 106 mg chol.

Gordon Leckenby has come up with a new way to package chicken in an edible container: instead of stuffing a tomato, an avocado, or a puff-pastry case, he uses half an acorn squash, previously baked tender. The shell holds a stir-fried medley of chicken and vegetables. Diced jicama adds refreshing crunch, while Sichuan peppercorns enliven the flavor and make your tongue tingle with a strange (but not painful) sensation.

Chicken in a Squash Shell

2 small (about 1 lb. each) acorn

squash

1 tablespoon salad oil

About 1 pound boned, skinned

chicken breasts, cut into 1/2-inch

cubes

1/2 cup finely diced red bell pepper

1/2 cup finely diced jicama

1 small onion, finely chopped

2 small firm-ripe tomatoes, peeled,

cored, and finely diced

1 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorns,

coarsely ground, or 1/2 teaspoon

pepper

Soy-ginger sauce (recipe follows)

1/4 cup chopped green onion

Sour cream

Cut squash in half lengthwise and scoop out seeds. Place squash, cut side down, in an oiled 9- by 13-inch pan. Bake, uncovered, in a 40 degrees0 oven until tender when pierced, 30 to 40 minutes.

About 15 minutes before squash is done, pour oil into a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium-high heat. When oil is hot, add chicken and stir-fry until lightly browned and white throughout (cut to test). Remove from pan with a slotted spoon. Add to pan bell pepper, jicama, onion, tomatoes, and peppercorns; stir-fry 5 minutes. Add sauce; stir until boiling; add chicken and any juices. Keep warm. Place each squash half in an individual bowl, then fill equally with chicken mixture. Add green onion and sour cream to taste. Makes 4 servings.

Per serving:280cal.; 30g.protein; 5.5g.fat,- 30g carbo.; 611 mg sodium; 66 mg chol.

Soy-ginger sauce. In a small bowl, stir together 2 tablespoons each soy sauce and dry sherry, 3/4 cup regular-strength chicken broth, 1 tablespoon firmly packed brown sugar, 1 teaspoon finely minced fresh ginger, and I tablespoon cornstarch.

For generations, Asian cooks have put fermentation to work for them in wonderful ways never dreamed of in the West. One result is fermented black beans, whose dark, mysterious flavor Cary

Yoshio Mizobe has in turn put to work in his own inventive way.

As he tells it, he returned home from work late one night too bushed to shop. But, in reconnoitering the refrigerator, he found only a dispirited cauliflower there. Somehow he conjured up fermented black beans and an odd collection of other ingredients to create the following dish, which resembles cauliflower to the same degree that a Hepplewhite chair resembles a tree.

Cauliflower with Mushrooms

in Spicy Black Bean Sauce

2 large dried shiitake mushrooms

1 small head (about 1 1/2 lb.)

cauliflower

2 tablespoons Oriental sesame

seed oil

2 tablespoons salted fermented black

beans, rinsed and coarsely

chopped

3 cloves garlic, minced or pressed

1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger

1 1/4 tablespoons oyster sauce

1/2 cup regular-strength chicken broth

1 teaspoon cornstarch blended with

1 tablespoon water

Fresh cilantro (coriander) sprigs

Soak mushrooms in hot water to cover until soft, about 25 minutes. Lift from water and squeeze dry; cut off and discard mushroom stems. Thinly slice mushrooms; set them aside.

Trim tough end from cauliflower stem and discard, then cut head in quarters and thinly slice; set aside.

Set a wok or 12-inch frying pan over high heat; add oil. When oil is hot, add beans, garlic, and ginger; stir-fry to heat, about 30 seconds. Add cauliflower and 3 tablespoons water; stir-fry to mix well, then cover and cook, stirring often, until cauliflower is barely tender to bite, about 7 minutes. Add water, 1 tablespoon at a time, if needed to prevent sticking. Add mushrooms, oyster sauce, chicken broth, and cornstarch mixture. Stir until boiling. Garnish portions with cilantro sprigs. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Per serving: 71 cal.; 2.1 g.protein; 5g fat,- 5.4g carbo.; 306 mg sodium; 0 mg chol

Genius asserts itself early in music and mathematics, possibly because both depend on inborn abilities for abstract thought and quick perception of pattern and order. Genius in those arts that depend on extended observation of the real world, however, shows itself much later. Hence, child novelists are inconceivable, and so, for the most part, are child chefs.

But Jeremy Kermit, age five, may be breaking new ground. His Hamburger-on-a-Stick shows an intuitive grasp of a fundamental principle in creative cooking that of preparing a familiar ingredient in a new way.

Hamburger-on-a-Stick

2 pounds ground lean beef

3 large eggs

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1/2 cup matzo meal or fine dry bread

crumbs

1/4 teaspoon pepper

About 1/2 cup cornflake crumbs

8 hot dog buns

Condiments (suggestions follow)

In a large mixing bowl, combine the beef, eggs, soy sauce, matzo meal, and pepper. Mix well, then shape into 8 cylinders, each 5 inches long. Roll each cylinder in cornflake crumbs to coat evenly. If made ahead, lay on a platter, cover with plastic wrap, and chill up to 4 hours.

Run a metal skewer (at least 7 in.) lengthwise through the center of each cylinder. Using a wide spatula to support meat, place each cylinder on a grill 4 to 6 inches above a solid bed of hot coals (you should be able to hold your hand at grill level for only 2 to 3 seconds).

Cook, turning with spatula, until evenly browned and done to your liking (cut to test), about 10 minutes for medium rare. Push meat off skewers into hot dog buns. Add condiments, as desired. Makes 8 servings. Per serving: 429 cal.; 27g.protein; 19g fat,- 35g carbo.; 506 mg sodium; 175 mg chol.

Condiments. Offer a choice of catsup, mustard, pickle relish, and minced onion.
COPYRIGHT 1989 Sunset Publishing Corp.
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 1989 Gale, Cengage Learning. All rights reserved.

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Title Annotation:includes recipes
Publication:Sunset
Date:Sep 1, 1989
Words:1260
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